Alberto Morillas
Alberto Morillas (born 1950) is a Spanish perfumer. He is a master perfumer at Swiss fragrance and flavor firm dsm-firmenich, where his notable creations have included Calvin Klein CK One, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò and Marc Jacobs Daisy. He has an independent line called Mizensir.[1]
Alberto Morillas | |
---|---|
Born | 1950 (age 72–73) Seville, Spain |
Nationality | Spanish |
Occupation | Perfumer |
Years active | 1970–present |
Employer | dsm-firmenich |
Notable work | Calvin Klein CK One Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò Marc Jacobs Daisy Fragrance One Office for Men |
Awards | Prix François Coty |
Signature | |
Early life
Morillas was born in 1950 in Seville, Spain[2] and moved to Switzerland at age ten.[3] He studied for two years at the École des Beaux Arts in Geneva.[2]
He cites as early scent memories his mother's bottle of Rochas Femme and his father's hair tonic.[3]
Career
Firmenich
Mainly self-taught,[4] Morillas began working in perfumery at 20,[3] inspired by a Vogue article about French perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain.[4] He joined Swiss fragrance and flavor firm Firmenich in 1970[4] and has gone on to create nearly 7000 perfumes.[1] He established himself with the 1975 creation Must de Cartier, the jewelry company's first fragrance.[4]
Among Morillas's notable creations is CK One, developed with Harry Fremont in 1994 for Calvin Klein fashion brand.[5] In the mid-1990s, CK One had annual sales of about $90 million (USD) and in 2007 still sold about $30 million annually in the United States.[6] In Perfumes: The Guide, Luca Turin gave CK One four of five stars, describing it as a "radiant citrus" that combines "soapy, fresh top notes" with heart and base notes simultaneously, creating a linear effect in which the scent sustains one "chord" rather than shapeshifting over the course of the day: "Time forever stands still at 8 a.m.: the frozen morning of a day full of promise."[7] It is often cited as the first "unisex" fragrance[4] (though historians note that dividing fragrances by gender was itself a relative novelty, a development of 20th-century marketing techniques.)[8]
Other projects
In 1997, Morillas and his wife began a line of scented candles called Mizensir, which grew to offer 80 different candles.[4] In 2015,[9] Morillas expanded the brand to include 17 perfumes.[4] In collaboration with Penhaligon's, Morillas also has a custom perfumery service, Bespoke by Alberto Morillas, based the Salon de Parfum in department store Harrods in London.[10]
Awards
Morillas won the Prix François Coty in 2003.[4]
Perfumes
- Calvin Klein CK One (1994)[2]
- Estée Lauder Pleasures (1995)[1][12]
- Givenchy Pi (1998)[13]
- Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio (1996)[2]
- Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Pour Homme[14]
- Kenzo Flower (2000)[15][16]
- Tommy Hilfiger Tommy[4][17]
- Marc Jacobs Daisy[3][18]
- Valentino Valentina (2011)[2]
- Versace Pour Homme[19]
- Gucci Bloom[20]
- Gucci Bloom Acqua di Fiori (2018)[21]
- Gucci Bloom Nettare di Fiori[3]
- Gucci Guilty Absolute[22]
- Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme[23]
- Titan Skinn[24]
- Eric Buterbaugh Apollo Hyacinth (2015)[25]
- Eric Buterbaugh Fragile Violet (2015)[26]
- Eric Buterbaugh Kingston Osmanthus (2016)[26]
- Bulgari Omnia (2003)[27]
- Bulgari Goldea (2017)[28]
- Bulgari Man Wood Essence (2018)[29]
- Bulgari Omnia Pink Sapphire (2018)[30]
- By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad (2012)[31]
- By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad Extreme (2017)[32]
- By Kilian Musk Oud[33]
- Le Labo Vanille 44[34]
- Mizensir Bois De Mysore[1]
- Mizensir L'Envers Du Paradis[1]
- Mizensir Little Bianca[1]
- Mizensir Sweet Praline[4]
- Mizensir Vanilla Bergamot[4]
- Mizensir Eau De Gingembre[4]
- Must de Cartier (1975)[4]
- Penhaligon's Iris Prima (2013)[35]
- Thierry Mugler Cologne[36][37]
- Zara Home Aqua Bergamota (2016)[38]
- Zara Home Evitorial Twist (2016)[38]
- Fragrance One Office For Men (2018)
- O Boticário Malbec Bleu (2021)
- Fragrance One Black Tie (2021)
References
- Kilikita, Jacqueline (5 June 2018). "Meet The Nose Behind All Your Favorite Perfumes". Refinery29. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 22 August 2018.
- McLaughlin-Duane, Rebecca (21 November 2011). "Premier perfumer Alberto Morillas offers insight on winning scents". The National. Archived from the original on 31 January 2021. Retrieved 22 August 2018.
- Moss, Jack (16 August 2018). "The Veteran Perfumer Behind Gucci's Heady Trio of Floral Scents". AnOther. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 22 August 2018.
- Turner, Jihan-Annesa (4 June 2016). "Alberto Morillas: The perfume world's best-kept secret". International Business Times UK. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 22 August 2018.
- Weatherford, Ashley (10 February 2017). "Why Everyone Smelled the Same in the '90s". The Cut. Archived from the original on 24 August 2018. Retrieved 24 August 2018.
- Wilson, Eric (8 March 2007). "Perfume-Cologne-Fragrances-Calvin Klein-Twenty Somethings". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 22 August 2018.
- Turin, Luca; Sanchez, Tania (2008). Perfumes: The Guide. Viking. pp. 122–123. ISBN 978-0-670-01865-9.
- Puckrick, Katie (13 June 2018). "exploring the relationship between perfume and gender". I-d. Vice. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- Férat, Laurence (25 October 2017). "La parfumerie de niche l'est-elle encore ?". Madame Figaro (in French). Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- March, Bridget (24 July 2018). "8 of the best bridal fragrance services". Harper's Bazaar. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 22 August 2018.
- "Los perfumes, las obras de arte de "El Maestro" Alberto Morillas". Agencia EFE (in Spanish). 17 December 2017. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- Turin, Luca; Sanchez, Tania (2008). Perfumes: The Guide. Viking. p. 288. ISBN 978-0-670-01865-9.
- "I più famosi profumi Givenchy: L'Interdit". DiLei (in Italian). 20 March 2018. Retrieved 14 February 2022.
- Turin, Luca; Sanchez, Tania (2008). Perfumes: The Guide. Viking. p. 56. ISBN 978-0-670-01865-9.
- Malaise, Catherine (7 August 2018). "" Fleur militante " : Quand Flower by Kenzo fait son cinéma". Paris Match (Belgique) (in French). Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 22 August 2018.
- Turin, Luca; Sanchez, Tania (2008). Perfumes: The Guide. Viking. p. 177. ISBN 978-0-670-01865-9.
- Turin, Luca; Sanchez, Tania (2008). Perfumes: The Guide. Viking. p. 338. ISBN 978-0-670-01865-9.
- Turin, Luca; Sanchez, Tania (2008). Perfumes: The Guide. Viking. p. 135. ISBN 978-0-670-01865-9.
- Clark, Adrian; Johnston, Robert (20 March 2019). "Best oud fragrances for a warm, smoky scent". British GQ. Retrieved 14 February 2022.
- Remedios, Faye (9 April 2018). "A Sensorial Delight: Alberto Morillas's Gucci Bloom Transports You To A Magical Garden". Verve Magazine. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 22 August 2018.
- "Fifteen female artists tell the story of new Gucci fragrance". The Jakarta Post. 2 May 2018. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- Shatzman, Celia (25 May 2017). "Meet Gucci Guilty Absolute, The House's First Men's Fragrance Under Alessandro Michele". Forbes. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 22 August 2018.
- Maloney, Nora (6 February 2018). "Fifteen Fragrances Just In Time for Valentine's Day 2018". Vanity Fair. Archived from the original on 31 January 2021. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- "Titan launches SKINN, a new range of perfumes". GQ India. 20 September 2013. Archived from the original on 28 March 2019. Retrieved 5 December 2018.
- Puppo, Melissa (February 2018). "Fragrance Designer Eric Buterbaugh On How To Find Your Signature Scent". Jupiter Magazine. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- Courbatère de Gaudric, Johanne (10 November 2016). "Eric Buterbaugh, du design floral au parfum". Les Echos (in French). Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- "Perfumes da Calvin Klein e da Bvlgari que você devia comprar". Jornal da Economia (in Brazilian Portuguese). 28 August 2017. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- Salibian, Sandra (24 May 2017). "Bulgari Taps Bella Hadid as Face of Its New Fragrance". WWD. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- Ma, Fiona (12 July 2018). "Bulgari Trumpets Sustainability Commitment With New Fragrance, Man Wood Essence". WWD. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- "En exclusiva: conoce al creador de la primera fragancia para la Generación Z". El Universal (in Spanish). 22 June 2018. Archived from the original on 31 January 2021. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- Penn, Sarah Bracy (15 April 2017). "From By Kilian: A New Fragrance Chapter in His Romance Repertoire". Vanity Fair. Archived from the original on 10 August 2020. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- Walsh, Rachel Marie (18 March 2017). "Product watch: Perfumes". The Irish Examiner. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- "Fragrances: Middle Eastern influences dominate in the coming season". The Sun Daily. 25 August 2013. Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- Deroo, Jeanne (17 August 2016). "Les nouveaux spots parfums". Elle (in French). Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- Salter, Kate (25 November 2013). "Made in Britain: Penhaligon's – Telegraph". The Telegraph. Archived from the original on 2 May 2017. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- Arias, Betzabe (3 April 2018). "¿Te marean los perfumes? Conoce las mejores alternativas con olor delicado". El Universal (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 24 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
- Turin, Luca; Sanchez, Tania (2008). Perfumes: The Guide. Viking. p. 126. ISBN 978-0-670-01865-9.
- Veyretout, Emilie (6 December 2016). "Zara se met (bien) au parfum". Madame Figaro (in French). Archived from the original on 23 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.