Anna Wintour Costume Center

Anna Wintour Costume Center
	Savage Beauty Exhibition, 2011
	Location within New York City
Established	2014
Location	1000 5th Avenue, Manhattan, New York City; 10028
Coordinates	40°46′48″N 73°57′44″W
Director	Andrew Bolton[1]
Public transit access	Subway: to 86th Street; Bus: M1, M2, M3, M4, M79, M86
Website	Official website

The Anna Wintour Costume Center is a wing of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's main building in Manhattan that houses the collection of the Costume Institute, a branch of the museum focused on fashion and costume design. The center is named after Anna Wintour, the longtime and current editor-in-chief of Vogue, Chief Content Officer[2] of Condé Nast, and chair of the museum's annual Met Gala (often called the "Met Ball")[3] since 1995. It was endowed by Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch.[4] As of August 2017, the chief curator is Andrew Bolton.[5]

The center was formally opened by the First Lady of the United States Michelle Obama on May 5, 2014.[6] Guests included Sarah Jessica Parker, Diane Von Furstenberg, Tory Burch, Zac Posen, Ralph Lauren, and Donatella Versace.[7][8][9][10]

History

Robe à la française 1740s, as seen in one of the exhibits at the Costume Institute

In 1902, wealthy philanthropists Irene and Alice Lewisohn began to volunteer at the Henry Street Settlement House in New York, a community center that provided social services and healthcare to immigrant families.[11] Alice, who acted in plays herself, began working as a drama teacher, while Irene devoted herself to dance productions. In 1914, the sisters bought a lot on the corner of Grand and Pitt Streets and donated it to the Settlement for building a new theater. The Neighborhood Playhouse opened in 1915. By 1920, the theater employed professional actors, and it was known for its experimental productions and its revue "The Grand Street Follies."[12] Theater designer Aline Bernstein served her apprenticeship there from 1915 to 1924 designing costumes and stage sets.

The Playhouse closed in 1927, but the company continued to produce plays on Broadway under the management of Helen F. Ingersoll. In 1928, with Rita Wallach Morganthau, the Lewisohns established the Neighborhood Playhouse School of the Theatre at East 54th Street, where it became an actor training school and students were offered a two-year program formal drama and dance training to become professionals.[12]

During their years of running the school theatre and producing plays, a body of knowledge was formed about acting, theater production, and costume, set and stage design. In 1937, Irene Lewisohn opened a home for this library, the Museum of Costume Art, on Fifth Avenue. Aline Bernstein served as the first President and Polaire Weissman as its first executive director.[13] After Irene Lewisohn's death in 1944, Lord & Taylor president Dorothy Shaver worked to bring the collection to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Shaver believed that this would strengthen the American fashion industry and raised $350,000 from New York garment manufacturers to finance the transaction.[14] The Costume Art museum was became part of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1946, becoming The Costume Institute but was independently run until 1959 when it became a curatorial department in the museum.[15] The Met is now home to the Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library.

Since 1946, with help from the fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert, the institute has hosted the annual Met Gala to raise money for operating expenses.[16]

In 2008, the American Costume Collection of the Brooklyn Museum merged into the Costume Institute, a cost-saving scheme coming after years of close collaboration between the two organizations. The collection of the Brooklyn museum is older, having been formed from private donations by former New York high society personalities, beginning with the donation in 1903 of an 1892 cream crepe dress worn by Kate Mallory Williams at her graduation from Brooklyn Heights Seminary.[16] Prior to the move, 23,500 objects from the Brooklyn collection were digitized and these images are now shared by both organizations.[17] At the time of the merger, the Met costume collection consisted of 31,000 objects from the 17th-century onwards.[17] The opening exhibition in 2014 featured work by British-born designer Charles James, an important figure in New York fashion of the 1940s and 1950s and whose work is in the Brooklyn collection.[6]

On September 8, 2015, it was announced that Harold Koda would be stepping down from his position as Curator in Charge of the Costume Institute. Andrew Bolton, who had joined the Costume Institute in 2002 as associate curator and was made curator in 2006, was announced as his replacement.[1]

In May 2017, the Costume Institute featured an exhibition featuring the works of Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. The exhibit was the Costume Institute's first exhibition focusing on a living designer since Yves Saint Laurent in 1983.[18]

List of exhibitions

1971–1972: Fashion Plate (October 1971 – January 1972)[19][20]
1972–1973: Untailored Garments (January–July 1972)[21][22]
1973–1974: The World of Balenciaga (March–September 1973)[23]
1974–1975: Romantic and Glamorous Hollywood Design (November 1974 – August 1975)[20][24]
1975–1976: American Women of Style (December 1975 – August 1976)[20][25]
1976–1977: The Glory of Russian Costume (December 1976 – August 1977)[20][26][27]
1977–1978: Vanity Fair: A Treasure Trove (December 1977 – September 1978)[20][28]
1978–1979: Diaghilev: Costumes and Designs of the Ballets Russes (November 1978 – June 1979)[20]
1979–1980: Fashions of the Habsburg Era: Austria-Hungary (December 1979 – August 1980)[20][29]
1980–1981: The Manchu Dragon: Costumes of China, the Chi'ng Dynasty (December 1980 – August 1981)[20]
1981–1982: The Eighteenth-Century Woman (December 1981 – September 1982)[20][30][31]
1982–1983: Le Belle Époque (December 1982 – September 1983)[20][32]
1983–1984: Yves Saint Laurent: 25 Years of Design (December 1983 – September 1984)[20][33]
1984–1985: Man and the Horse (December 1984 – September 1985)[20][34]
1985–1986: Costumes of Royal India (December 1985 – August 1986)[20][35]
1986–1987: Dance (December 1986 – September 1987)[20][36]
1987–1988: In Style: Celebrating Fifty Years of the Costume Institute (November 1987 – April 1988)[20][37]
1988–1989: From Queen to Empress: Victorian Dress 1837–1877 (December 1988 – April 1989)[20][38]
1989–1990: The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire, 1789–1815 (December 1989 – April 1990)[20]
1990–1991: Théâtre de la Mode – Fashion Dolls: The Survival of Haute Couture (December 1990 – April 1991)[20]
1991–1992: Gala held, but no concurrent costume exhibition[39]
1992–1993: Fashion and History: A Dialogue (December 1992 – March 1993)[20][40]
1993–1994: Diana Vreeland: Immoderate Style (December 1993 – March 1994)[20][41]
1994–1995: Orientalism: Visions of the East in western dress (December 1994 – March 1995)[20][42][43]
1995–1996: Haute Couture (December 1995 – March 1996)[20][44]
1996–1997: Christian Dior (December 1996 – March 1997)[20][45][46]
1997–1998: Gianni Versace (December 1997 – March 1998)[20][47][48][49]
1998–1999: Cubism and Fashion (December 10, 1998 – March 14, 1999)[20][50]
1999–2000: Rock Style (December 9, 1999 – March 19, 2000)[20][51]
2000–2001: No costume exhibition presented[52]
2001: Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years (May 1 – July 29, 2001)[20][53]
2001–2002: No costume exhibition gala presented[52]
2003: Goddess: The Classical Mode (May 1 – August 3, 2003)[20][54]
2004: Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the 18th Century (April 2? – August 8, 2004)[20][55]
2005: The House of Chanel (May 5 – August 7, 2005)[20][56]
2005–2006: Rara Avis: Selections from the Iris Barrel Apfel Collection (September 13, 2005 – January 22, 2006)[57]
2006: AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion (May 3 – September 6, 2006)[20][58]
2007: Poiret: King of Fashion (May 9 – August 5, 2007)[20][59][60]
2008: Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy (May 7 – September 1, 2008)[20][61][62]
2009: The Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion (May 6 – August 9, 2009)[20][63][64][65]
2010: American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity (May 5 – August 10, 2010)[20][66][67][68]
2011: Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (May 4 – August 7, 2011)[20][69][70][71]
2012: Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations (May 10 – August 19, 2012)[72]
2013: Punk: Chaos to Couture (May 9 – August 14, 2013)[73][74]
2014: Charles James: Beyond Fashion (May 8 – August 10, 2014)[75][76][77]
2014–2015: Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire (October 21, 2014 – February 1, 2015)[78]
2015: China: Through the Looking Glass• (May 7 – September 7, 2015)[79]
2015–2016: Jacqueline de Ribes: The Art of Style (November 19, 2015 – February 21, 2016)[80]
2016: Manus x Machina: Fashion In An Age Of Technology (May 5 – September 5, 2016)[81]
2016–2017: Masterworks: Unpacking Fashion (November 18, 2016 – February 5, 2017)[82]
2017: Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between (May 4 – September 4, 2017)[83]
2018: Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination (May 10 – October 8, 2018)[84]
2019: Camp: Notes on Fashion (May 8 – September 9, 2019)[85]
2020: About Time: Fashion and Duration[86]
2021–2022 In America: A Lexicon of Fashion (part one of a two part exhibition)[87]

2022 In America: An Anthology of Fashion (part two of a two part exhibition)
2023 Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty (May 5 - July 16, 2023)[88][89][90][91]

References

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Cavallo, Adolph S (October 1971). Stoddart, Katherine (ed.). "Fashion Plate: An Opening Exhibition for the New Costume Institute" (PDF). The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin. 30 (1): 45–48. doi:10.2307/3258574. JSTOR 3258574. Archived (PDF) from the original on April 7, 2013. Retrieved May 23, 2014. To salute the fashion industry of New York, whose tireless efforts and financial contributions were instrumental in making the new Costume Institute a reality, the Museum will present Fashion Plate in the Costume Institute in the fall of 1971...Fashion Plate will be the first of these gallery installations – the inaugural exhibition.
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Morris, Bernadine (December 10, 1985). "A Celebration of Royal India's Fashions". The New York Times. Archived from the original on May 27, 2014. Retrieved May 26, 2014.
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"Costume Institute Gala Returns". BizBash. July 31, 2002. Archived from the original on May 7, 2015. Retrieved May 26, 2014.
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"Goddess to be Theme of Costume Institute's Spring 2003 Exhibition and Gala at Metropolitan Museum" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. May 2003. Archived from the original on May 26, 2014. Retrieved May 25, 2014.
Menkes, Suzy (April 27, 2004). "Voluptuous lives, 'Dangerous Liaisons'". The New York Times. Archived from the original on May 27, 2014. Retrieved May 26, 2014.
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"Rara Avis: Selections from the Iris Barrel Apfel Collection" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. September 2005. Archived from the original on September 30, 2015. Retrieved May 25, 2014.
"AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. April 22, 2006. Archived from the original on May 27, 2014. Retrieved May 25, 2014.
""Poiret: King of Fashion" at Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute to Celebrate Paul Poiret, Visionary Artist-Couturier of Early 20th Century" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. April 22, 2006. Archived from the original on May 27, 2014. Retrieved May 26, 2014.
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"The Model as Muse Embodying Fashion". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Archived from the original on July 13, 2020. Retrieved May 24, 2014.
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"Rei Kawakubo / Comme des Garcons Art of the In-Betweens". The Met. Archived from the original on December 23, 2018. Retrieved January 29, 2019.
"Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination". The Met. Archived from the original on January 29, 2019.
https://www.gothamist.com/amp/articles/create%3farticle_id=5cd191c7c649b40001442c14%5B%5D
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"The Metropolitan Museum of Art". The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
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Feitelberg, Rosemary (2023-03-22). "The Metropolitan Museum of Art Shares Details About Upcoming Karl Lagerfeld Exhibition". WWD. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
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External links

Charles James: Beyond Fashion—Link to the 2014 opening exhibition, honoring the work of Charles James
Guide to the Metropolitan Museum of Art
Digital collections of the Costume Institute
Costume Institute Records, 1937–2011 from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Archives, New York.

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[metmuseum.org-1] "Harold Koda to Step Down After Leading Met Museum's Costume Institute for 15 Years; Andrew Bolton to Become Curator In Charge of the Department". The Met. September 8, 2015. Archived from the original on March 15, 2017. Retrieved January 29, 2019.

[2] Lee, Edmund (2020-12-15). "Condé Nast Puts Anna Wintour in Charge of Magazines Worldwide". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2023-04-20.

[3] Marriott, Hannah; Gilbert, Sarah (May 2, 2017). "Met Gala 2017: avant garde looks on the red carpet – in pictures". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Archived from the original on April 6, 2019. Retrieved January 29, 2019.

[Met_Names_Costume_Institute_Complex_in_Honor_of_Anna_Wintour-4] Karimzadeh, Marc (January 14, 2014). "Met Names Costume Institute Complex in Honor of Anna Wintour". WWD. Archived from the original on January 16, 2014. Retrieved January 15, 2014.

[Trebay-5] Trebay, Guy (April 29, 2015). "At the Met, Andrew Bolton Is the Storyteller in Chief". New York Times. Archived from the original on October 2, 2015. Retrieved August 13, 2015.

[Michelle_Obama_Cuts_the_Ribbon_at_Anna_Wintour_Costume_Center-6] Karimzadeh, Marc (May 5, 2014). "Michelle Obama Cuts the Ribbon at Anna Wintour Costume Center". WWD. Archived from the original on May 8, 2014. Retrieved May 7, 2014.

[7] "Michelle Obama to open Anna Wintour's Met costume center". Usatoday.com. April 30, 2014. Archived from the original on December 14, 2021. Retrieved May 6, 2014.

[8] "First lady of fashion Anna Wintour gets teary as First Lady Michelle Obama honors her at the Met". NY Daily News. March 17, 2006. Archived from the original on May 5, 2014. Retrieved May 6, 2014.

[9] Tiffany Yannetta (May 5, 2014). "Inside the Anna Wintour Costume Center's Charles James Exhibit - Afternoon at the Museum - Racked NY". Ny.racked.com. Archived from the original on December 14, 2021. Retrieved May 6, 2014.

[10] "Michelle Obama Cuts the Ribbon for New Anna Wintour Costume Center". The Wall Street Journal. Speakeasy (blog). April 17, 2012. Archived from the original on May 6, 2014. Retrieved May 6, 2014.

[11] "Henry Street Settlement". Encyclopedia Britannica. Archived from the original on January 30, 2019. Retrieved January 29, 2019.

[:0-12] "Neighborhood Playhouse Records". New York Public Library Archives & Manuscripts. Archived from the original on January 30, 2019. Retrieved January 29, 2019.

[13] "Costume Institute Records, 1937-2008" (PDF). Metropolitan Museum of Art Archives. Archived (PDF) from the original on May 25, 2018. Retrieved January 29, 2019.

[14] Stuart, Amanda Mackenzie (2012). Empress of Fashion, A Life of Diana Vreeland. Harper Collins. p. 248.

[15] "The Costume Institute". www.metmuseum.org. Archived from the original on January 29, 2019. Retrieved January 30, 2019.

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[Artstor-17] Collection of the Brooklyn Museum costumes Archived April 30, 2014, at the Wayback Machine on Artstor

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