Duvelleroy

For centuries, Paris had been the capital of haute couture, high-class jewelry, and fan-making, but in 1827 the city had no more than fifteen fan-makers.[1] Yet it was at that precise moment that Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy chose to establish his own fan house in Paris. At 25 years old, he was convinced that this small accessory, which had gone out of fashion after the French Revolution, might become fashionable once again. The demand for fans in South America, which was at the time the primary export market for French fan makers, helped him to start his business.

Two years later, a special event was to bring him luck: a ball given by the Duchess of Berry at the Tuileries Palace in March 1829. For the quadrille the women sported fans. A single dance did it all: once again, fans were back.[1]

Duvelleroy Boutique. 19th century

The house opened a boutique at 15, rue de la Paix, while its ateliers were established at 17, passage des Panoramas in Paris.[2]

To produce fan sticks and guards from precious wood, horn, mother of pearl, ivory or tortoise shell, Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy recruited the best stick makers (or 'tabletiers'), who were traditionally based in the Oise region of France. For the leaves of his fans, he collaborated with the most sought-after engravers and painters, sometimes working with artists such as Ingres or Delacroix for exceptional pieces.[3]

During twenty years, the founder of the House of Duvelleroy contributed to many fan related innovations and patents, never sparing his efforts to obtain recognition for the profession. In 1851, willing to defend his vision of the craft, he wrote a letter to Nathalis Rondot, who recorded the fan section at the 1851 Great Exhibition in London. That same year, Duvelleroy was awarded the prize medal at The Crystal Palace. From then on, the house would receive many gold medals for its craftsmanship. The Duvelleroys father and son would each be President of the Syndicate of Fan makers. On this account, both received the Légion d’Honneur, the Greatest Order of Merit for in France.

Duvelleroy by Gendrot, 1905.

After the production of a fan representing the Royal Family of England, based on a painting by Winterhalter, Duvelleroy was appointed supplier to Queen Victoria, and opened a boutique in London. Soon enough, Duvelleroy fans were sold in all major courts of Europe. In 1853, Duvelleroy realized a fan for the wedding of Eugénie de Montijo to Emperor Napoleon III. Later, the house would be nominated exclusive supplier of the City of Paris. As such, the House of Duvelleroy realized the fans given to the wives of foreign sovereigns and dignitaries coming to Paris for official visits, such as the Empress of Russia, the Queen of Sweden, the Queen of Denmark and the Queen of Bulgaria.[4]

Jean-Pierre Duvelleroy gave the London House to his elder son Jules, born out of wedlock, while he handed over the management of the Paris House to his legitimate son, Georges Duvelleroy. For some time, Jules Duvelleroy developed the house in England, where he published the language of the fan, a whole code supposedly used by women for centuries. According to Duvelleroy leaflets:

• Twirling the fan in the left hand means "we are watched."
• Carrying the fan in the right hand in front of her face means "follow me."
• Covering the left ear with the open fan means "do not betray our secret."
• Drawing the fan through the hand means "I hate you."
• Drawing the fan across the cheek means "I love you."
• Touching the tip of the fan with the finger means "I wish to speak to you."
• Letting the fan rest on the right cheek means "yes."
• Letting the fan rest on the left cheek means "no."
• Opening and shutting the fan means "you are cruel."
• Dropping the fan means "we will be friends."
• Fanning slowly means "I am married."
• Fanning rapidly means "I am engaged."
• Touching the handle of the fan to the lips means "kiss me."

Duvelleroy fan case, 1905.

Duvelleroy fan, 1920.

Duvelleroy fan, 2010.

By duty of memory, Michel Maignan conserved the Duvelleroy Fund which his grandfather passed on to him in 1981. This Fund is made of fans, drawings, tools, materials and furnishings kept since the foundation of the House of Duvelleroy in 1827. "I give it to you so that you can make something out of it", he said. In 1986, an exhibit dedicated to the Fan as a mirror of the Belle Époque[5] was given in Paris: many Duvelleroy fans were exhibited on this occasion. Since then, many publications and exhibits have been developed, referring to Duvelleroy. In 1995, an exhibit in England was entirely dedicated to the House: Duvelleroy, King of Fans, Fanmaker to Kings.