Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure

Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure (1 June 1906 – 24 February 1999),[4][5][6] known professionally as Biki,[7] was a notable Italian fashion designer and couturier of the post-war period based in Milan.[6] Her clients were mainly connected to the La Scala opera,[1] and she is known as the creator of the style for Maria Callas,[1][8] whom she first met in 1951 at a dinner party organized by Wally Toscanini.[2]

Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure
Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure, 1950’s
Born(1906-06-01)1 June 1906
Died24 February 1999(1999-02-24) (aged 92)
NationalityItalian
Occupation(s)fashion designer and couturier
Known forLong-term stylist of Maria Callas[1][2][3]
SpouseRobert Bouyeure[4]
ChildrenRoberta Bouyeure[4]
RelativesGiacomo Puccini (step grandfather)

Bouyeure was a granddaughter of the composer Giacomo Puccini.[9][1]

Biography

Bouyeure was born in Milan on 1 June 1906.[5] She studied at A. Manzoni linguistic school where she also learned music and singing.[4] Bouyeure travelled to Paris many times and decided to learn fashion. After a few years apprenticeship she created a line of French-style underwear named "Domina" (the name was proposed by the poet Gabriele D'Annunzio who was a friend of the Puccini family).[4]

On 5 May 1936 she opened her atelier in Milan on via Senato,[4][5] catering mostly to La Scala opera singers.[1] Her long-term cooperation with Maria Callas started in 1954.[1]

Bouyeure designed a plain black evening cape in wool crepe for Callas that she wore for the 1970 opening of the Teatro alla Scala season in Milan, a paisley coat in 1971,[10] and also a floor-length dress with silk satin collar which she wore in 1973 for the farewell concert at the Royal Festival Hall in London.[2]

In 1967 Bouyeure worked with the Italian fashion photographer Johnny Moncada and in 1968 for the Linea Italiana magazine.[11]

Her atelier was located in Via Monte Napoleone.[12]

Bouyeure died on 24 February 1999.[2][5]

Personal life

The name Biki was given to Bouyeure as a child by her step grandfather Puccini, who called her Bicchi (Italian "biricchina" meaning naughty girl).[13] She married art expert Robert Bouyeure in 1936.[4] They had a daughter named Roberta, born in 1937.[4]

References
  1. Gian Luca Bauzano (2017-08-25). "Maria Callas, i segreti dello stile unico della prima diva mediatica" [Maria Callas, the secrets of the unique style of the first media diva]. Corriere della Sera (in Italian). Archived from the original on 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  2. Olsen, Kerry (2017-02-21). "Maria Callas, From Reality to Runway". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 2018-01-26. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  3. Sally Williams (2007-11-04). "A Problem Mile Maria". The Sunday Telegraph. Retrieved 2018-02-13 – via pressreader.com.
  4. Michela Panigo. "Elvira Leonardi Bouyeure (Biki)". enciclopediadelledonne.it (in Italian). Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  5. Paola Zonca (2004-10-07). "All' asta i gioielli della Biki la signora dell' alta moda" [Jewels of , the lady of high fashion, at an auction]. la Repubblica (in Italian). Archived from the original on 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  6. Marta Boneschi (2010-10-18). "La donna lombarda, una forza di modernità e di integrazione" [The Lombard woman, a force of modernity and integration]. Corriere della Sera (in Italian). Archived from the original on 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  7. Masiola, Rosanna; Cittadini, Sabrina (2020-07-06). The Golden Dawn of Italian Fashion: A Cross-Cultural Perspective on Maria Monaci Gallenga. Cambridge Scholars Publishing. p. 55. ISBN 978-1-5275-5575-4.
  8. Evelin Ojamets (2017-05-22). "Biki – the style creator of diva Callas". nordicfashionistalifestyle.com. Archived from the original on 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  9. Phillips-Matz, Mary Jane (2002-10-03). Puccini: A Biography. UPNE. p. XIII. ISBN 978-1-55553-530-8.
  10. Rosalind McKever (2014-04-16). "Review: Made in Italy, 'The Glamour of Italian Fashion' at the V&A". Apollo. Archived from the original on 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
  11. "Made in Italy". johnnymoncada.com. Retrieved 2017-12-27.
  12. Potvin, John, ed. (2013-01-11). The Places and Spaces of Fashion, 1800-2007. Routledge. p. 149. ISBN 978-1-1360-8610-6. Retrieved 2017-12-27 – via Google Books.
  13. Umberto De Agostino (2017-09-28). "L'amica di Marta Marzotto: "Così le rubai il fidanzato"" [Marta Marzotto's friend: «So I stole her boyfriend»]. La Provincia Pavese (in Italian). Archived from the original on 2018-02-13. Retrieved 2018-02-13.
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