Artificial nails

Acrylic nails are made out of acrylic glass (PMMA). When it is mixed with a liquid monomer (usually ethyl methacrylate mixed with some inhibitor) it forms a malleable bead. This mixture begins to cure immediately, continuing until completely solid in minutes.[2] Acrylic nails can last up to 21 days but can last longer with touch-ups.[3] To give acrylic nails color, gel polish, nail polish, and dip powders can be applied. Use of MMA (Methyl methacrylate liquid monomers) acrylics are strongly discouraged and banned in some states as it can cause damage to the natural nail, asthma; irritated eyes, skin, nose, and mouth; difficulty concentrating; loss of smell and kidney issues.[4] A suitable alternative is EMA (Ethyl Methacrylate Liquid Monomers) in salon use.

Gel nail extensions and gel nail polish. Below are various manicure tools including a UV lamp for curing gel nails.

Gel nails can be utilized in order to create artificial nail extensions, but can also be used like nail polish. They are hardened using ultraviolet light.[5] They last longer than regular nail polish and chip less often. They can have a high-gloss finish and last for two to three weeks.[6][5]

Gel nails are strong, although not as strong as acrylic or fiberglass nails, and tend to be more expensive.[5]

Acetone does not dissolve some types of gel nails, so they have to be removed at a salon by buffing and filing, usually with an electronic nail file.[5] Repeated buffing can lead to thinning of the nail plate.[7] Improper application of Gel-X, and similar artificial nail systems that imitate Gel-X, can lead to fungal infections and allergic reactions.

A new gel nail extension was created circa 2017 that is commonly referred to as Gel-X, or soft gel tips.[8] It is a soft gel nail tip that is precut in differing styles and lengths which covers the whole nail bed up to the end of the nail. Gel-X are plied by first applying a PH bonder (dehydrator) followed by an acid-free gel primer. Finally, it is glued on using a gel adhesive that is cured using a blue[8] UV/LED light. The removal process of gel-X nails is dissolving in acetone for 20 minutes.[9]

Nail wraps are formed by cutting pieces of fiberglass, linen, silk fabric, or another material to fit on the surface of the nail (or a tip attached prior), to be sealed onto the nail plate with a layer of resin or glue. They do not damage the nail and also provide strength to the nail but are not used to lengthen it.[10] It can also be used to fix broken nails.[10] The treatment is however more expensive.[10] Nail wraps last 5–7 days but can last longer if worn and used correctly. Add-ons can impact the duration of the nail wraps. To take nail wraps off correctly, soak the wrap in acetone just enough to deteriorate the adhesive.

Nail tips are made of a strong bendable material called acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS). Nail tips are attached to the natural nail to extend its length and provides room for more nail designs.[11] They can come in many different shapes, sizes, and colors, but the most popular ones are usually clear or white. They only last for 7–10 days.[11]

Some nail tips can also be made out of soft gel, for stronger applications when tips are the sole extension, with no other product on top. Gel-X is an example of a soft gel nail tip system.

With the dip powder method, a clear liquid is brushed onto a nail and the nail is then placed into clear, shimmery or pigmented dip powder, similar to what is used in the application of acrylic nails. The process is repeated multiple times, depending on how long the extension is. Dip nails tend to last about a month, 2–3 weeks longer than gel and acrylic nails.[12] It can be worn on natural nails, nails with tips on, or can create artificial nails. Dip powder nails do not require any UV/LED light to be cured, instead they are cured using an activator. The quickest way to remove dip powder is to drill, clip off, or buff out layers of the powder so, when they are soaking in acetone, they slide right off.[13]

Acrylic nails help conceal or fix broken, damaged, short, or otherwise considered "undesirable" nail appearance. They also help prevent nail biting, breakage, and splits. They are used when people are not able to grow the length and strength of natural nails that they desire or simply desire a new fashion look. This problem can be solved by using certain nail techniques such as nail tipping, sculptured nails, nail wrapping, or acrylic overlays. With improper removal, acrylic nails often damage natural nails. An experienced nail technician should assist with this to ensure nail health.

If fitted properly, artificial nails are usually not problematic. However, long term use and poorly fitted nails can seriously damage the nail bed and hamper natural nail growth. Natural nails may become thin and weaken with frequent touch-ups. The most common problem associated with artificial nails is a fungal infection that may develop between the false and natural nail.

When artificial nails are applied to the natural nail surface, minor types of trauma to the artificial nails which can happen from something as harmless as scraping or bumping a nail against a firm surface can cause separation of the nail from its nail bed. This allows bacteria and fungus to potentially enter the separated area setting up an infection and bacterial burden. Many hospitals and healthcare facilities do not allow employees to have long fingernails, fake or real, due to the risk of said nails harboring microbes that could transmit diseases to patients.[18] Infection can also be a risk when nails are applied by a disreputable nail salon that does not follow sanitary practices.[19]

The use of nail polish and artificial nails make proper hand hygiene and hand washing more difficult, because they are more difficult to clean than natural nails. Therefore, in professions where hand hygiene is important, such as when handling food or providing patient care, nail polish and artificial nails are usually forbidden. For example, a guideline of the National Health Service (England) explicitly forbids both during patient care activity.[20] The Food and Agriculture Organization publishes similar advice for the food retail sector.[21]

From an occupational health standpoint, there could be hazards to nail salon workers who are exposed to the chemical fumes from artificial nails during their entire work shift. Ethyl methacrylate can be used for artificial nails and can cause contact dermatitis, asthma, and allergies in the eyes and nose.[22] Nail salon workers also face exposure to other chemicals used, such as toluene, dibutyl phthalate, and formaldehyde.[23][24][25] The products used to make acrylic nails may also be flammable.[26]

Exposure to methyl methacrylate (the precursor to acrylic glass) can cause drowsiness, light-headedness, and trembling of the hands,[27] and so it has been banned for use in cosmetology in the majority of US states.[28] Use of methyl methacrylate can cause skin reactions and damages to the natural nails, sometimes even permanently. Some signs that a nail salon is still using MMA might be prices that are significantly lower than most other nail salons.[29] There will be an unusually strong and fruity odor. Also, the manicurist will often be wearing a mask to keep from breathing in the harmful chemical.[27] Removal is much more difficult, and drills are more excessively used. Ethyl methacrylate is the safer alternative for MMA, but it costs several times as much and can still produce many effects.