Glödis

The Glödis (3,206 m (AA)) is one of the most regularly formed summits in the Schober Group in East Tyrol, hence its sobriquet, the "Matterhorn of the Schober Group". It is an impressive sight both from the Debanttal valley and the valley of Kalser Lesachtal.

Glödis
The Glödis from the south
Highest point
Elevation3,206 m (AA) (10,518 ft)
Prominence376 m ↓ Glödistörl
Isolation1.94 km → Roter Knopf (south arête)
ListingAlpine mountains above 3000 m
Coordinates46°57′42″N 12°43′33″E
Geography
Parent rangeHigh Tauern, Schober Group
Climbing
First ascent13 July 1871 by J. Pöschl with guides, Gorgasser and Hutter
Normal routeKlettersteig along the southeast arête (grade B)
The Glödis seen from the ridge of Debantgrat to the southwest

Name

Franz Miklosich derives the name from the Slavic word gledna (= "seeing").[1] According to Heinz Pohl, however, there are 2 possible derivations: either from the early Slovenian glodišće (= "place gnawed away by water", from glodati = "to gnaw"), but this link is phonetically difficult; or more probably from glodež which has a similar meaning.[2]

In the Debanttal valley the mountain was for a long time called the Großer Gößnitzkopf. Its other names include Klöders and Granatkogel.[1]

Routes

The best ascent option is from the Lienzer Hut (1,977 m above sea level (AA)) along the Franz Keil Way, then on to the Kalser Törl and finally along the southeast arête. In autumn 2006 a klettersteig was installed on the southeast ridge which is of moderate difficulty (grade B). Other well known routes are:

  • Southwest ridge from the Kalser Törl (II–III, in one place III+), popular, often used[3]
  • Northeast ridge from Glödistörl (III-), boulder-strewn
  • West ridge (IV–V), most difficult arête of the Glödis
  • South ridge (III+), solid rock, rarely used

References
  1. Walter Mair: Schobergruppe, Alpine Club Guide, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Munich, 1979. ISBN 3-7633-1222-6
  2. Mountain names according to Heinz Pohl Archived 2008-04-07 at the Wayback Machine. Retrieved 19 Feb 2015
  3. Zlöbl: Die Dreitausender Osttirols. p. 22, see literature

Literature and maps
  • Alpine Club map Sheet 41, 1:25,000, Schobergruppe, ISBN 3-928777-12-2
  • Richard Goedeke: 3000er in den Nordalpen, Bruckmann, Munich, 2004, ISBN 3-7654-3930-4
  • Georg Zlöbl: Die Dreitausender Osttirols. Verlag Grafik Zloebl, Lienz-Tristach, 2005, ISBN 3-200-00428-2
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