Jain Kim

Jain Kim
	Kim in Vienna, 2010
Personal information
Born	11 September 1988; Goyang, South Korea
Height	153 cm (5 ft 0 in)
Weight	42 kg (93 lb)
Spouse(s)	Oh Young-hwan
Website	jainkim.kr
	Climbing career
Type of climber	Competition climbing; Sport climbing; Bouldering;
Highest grade	Redpoint: 8c/8c+ ;
Known for	Winning 3 World Cups, 1 World Championship and 14 Asian Championships.
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing South Korea
World Championships
World Cup
World Games
	Updated on May 4, 2019.

Kim Ja-in (Hangul: 김자인, born 11 September 1988), more widely known in the West as Jain Kim, is a professional climber who specializes in competition climbing. She is mainly active in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. She has won the Lead Climbing World Cup three times (2010, 2013, 2014), the Lead Climbing World Championship once (2014), and the Rock Master once (2010, Lead discipline). Moreover, she has won the Asian Championships 14 times in 15 years, namely 11 times in lead climbing and 3 times in bouldering (see below for details).

Jain Kim also successfully climbs outdoors. In 2014, she redpointed her first routes graded beyond 8b+ (5.14a); namely Bibita Biologica 8c (5.14b) and Reini's Vibes 8c+ (5.14c), both in Arco, Italy.

Biography

Kim in the Bouldering World Cup, Vienna, 2010

Born into a family of mountain-dwellers and climbers,[1] Jain Kim started climbing at the age of 12. In July 2004, at the age of 15, she started competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and since 2006 she has also participated in the Bouldering World Cup.

She won the Lead Climbing Asian Championship in 2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, and 2010. In 2008, she also won the Bouldering Asian Championship. In 2009, she ranked second in the Lead Climbing World Cup,[2] second in the Lead Climbing World Championship,[3] second in the World Games (Lead), and third in the Rock Master (Lead).[4]

In 2010, she won the lead climbing competitions both in the Rock Master[5] and the World Cup.[6] She obtained the World Cup overall title by ranking first in five of the six stages, namely those held in Xining, Chuncheon, Puurs, Huaiji, and Kranj. The only World Cup stage that Jain Kim did not win in 2010 was the first one, held in Chamonix. She won the Lead Climbing World Cup again in 2013 and 2014, each time winning four of the eight events.

In May and June 2014, she redpointed her first routes in rock climbing graded 8b+, namely Bibita Biologica (8c) and Reini's Vibes (8c/8c+), both in Arco, Italy.

On September 14, 2014, three days after she had turned 26, she achieved an extraordinary victory at the Lead Climbing World Championships, where she managed to ascend (on-sight) all of the routes attempted in the qualifications, the semifinals, and the finals.

On May 20, 2017, she climbed the 555-meter Lotte World Tower in Seoul.[7]

Upon winning the gold Lead World Cup in Chamonix on July 9, 2023, Kim became the oldest woman to win a Lead World Cup at 34 years old.[8]

Personal life

She is married to Oh Young-hwan, a member of the 21st National Assembly of Korea, who was a firefighter of Seoul Fire Services and writer.[9] On March 10, 2021, Kim gave birth to a daughter.[10]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup[11]

Discipline	2004	2005	2006	2007	2008	2009	2010	2011	2012	2013	2014	2015	2016	2017	2018	2019	2023
Lead	25	18	28	14	18	2	1	2	2	1	1	2	3	2	3	8
Bouldering	–	–	36	–	51	5	12	7	10	29	–	–	–	18	48	35	51
Speed	–	–	–	–	–	–	–	–	–	–	–	30	–	–	75	–	–
Combined	–	–	21	–	25	2	1	2	2	4	–	1	–	2	8	8

Climbing World Championships

Youth[12]

Discipline	2005 Youth A
Lead	22

Adult[12]

Discipline	2005	2007	2009	2011	2012	2014	2016	2018	2019
Lead	32	8	2	2	2	1	4	3	22
Bouldering	12	45	17	11	5	–	–	41	25
Speed	–	–	–	–	41	–	–	54	59
Combined	–	–	–	–	1	–	–	–	40

World Games

Discipline	2005	2009	2013	2017
Lead	5	2	2	4

Rock Master

Discipline	2009	2010	2011	2012	2013
Lead	3	1	–	–	2
Duel	–	–	5	–	3

Asian Championships[12]

Discipline	2004	2005	2006	2007	2008	2009	2010	2012	2013	2014	2015	2016	2017	2018	2022
Lead	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	–	1	1	3	–	1	3
Bouldering	–	–	2	1	1	2	2	1	–	–	3	–	–	–	–

World Cup podiums

Lead[12]

Last updated July 9 2023.

Season	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
2007			1	1
2008				0
2009	1	2		3
2010	5			5
2011	5	1	1	7
2012	3	2	1	6
2013	4	2	1	7
2014	4	2		6
2015	3			3
2016		1	4	5
2017	1	3	2	6
2018	2		2	4
2019	1		1	2
2023	1			1
Total	30	13	13	56

Bouldering[12]

Season	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
2009		1		1
2010			2	2
2011	1		1	2
2012			1	1
Total	1	1	4	6

Television

Year	Program	Original title	Network	Role	Note	Ref.
2015	Running Man	런닝맨	SBS	Guest	Episode 268	[13]
2021	Sporty Sisters 2	노는언니2	E Channel	Member		[14]

References

Auriana Beaute. "Jain Kim's Profile". Retrieved 5 December 2014.
planetmountain.com, ed. (16 November 2009). "Lead World Cup 2009 to Johanna Ernst and Adam Ondra". Archived from the original on 7 December 2014. Retrieved 4 December 2014.
Vinicio Stefanello (7 July 2009). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Climbing World Championships - Qinghai (CHN)". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
Vinicio Stefanello (6 September 2009). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Eiter and Puigblanque are the kings of Rock Master 2009". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
planetmountain.com, ed. (19 July 2010). "Rock Master 2010". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
up-climbing.com, ed. (30 October 2010). "Jain Kim Wins the World Cup 2010". Archived from the original on 11 December 2014. Retrieved 4 December 2014.
"S. Korean female climber reaches top of tallest building". yonhapnews.co.kr. 20 May 2017. Retrieved 20 May 2017.
gripped (2023-07-10). "Jain Kim Becomes Oldest Woman to Win Gold". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 2023-07-16.
wedding invitation sent from Oh Younghwan(GLAD Hotel, 15:00, 12 December 2015). Retrieved 15 November 2015.
"Jain Kim gave birth to a daughter". Archived from the original on 2021-12-25.
IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Kim's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
Kim, Jennifer (2015-10-17). "'Running Man' Kim Ja In Picks Haha". KDramaStars. Retrieved 2021-10-08.
"노는언니2". www.imtcast.com. Retrieved 2021-10-08.

External links

Jain Kim at the World Games
Jain Kim at the International Federation of Sport Climbing (archive)

8a.nu profile

Jain Kim on Facebook

This article is issued from Wikipedia. The text is licensed under Creative Commons - Attribution - Sharealike. Additional terms may apply for the media files.

[1] Auriana Beaute. "Jain Kim's Profile". Retrieved 5 December 2014.

[2] tmountain.com, ed. (16 November 2009). "Lead World Cup 2009 to Johanna Ernst and Adam Ondra". Archived from the original on 7 December 2014. Retrieved 4 December 2014.

[3] Vinicio Stefanello (7 July 2009). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Climbing World Championships - Qinghai (CHN)". Retrieved 4 December 2014.

[4] Vinicio Stefanello (6 September 2009). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Eiter and Puigblanque are the kings of Rock Master 2009". Retrieved 4 December 2014.

[5] tmountain.com, ed. (19 July 2010). "Rock Master 2010". Retrieved 4 December 2014.

[6] up-climbing.com, ed. (30 October 2010). "Jain Kim Wins the World Cup 2010". Archived from the original on 11 December 2014. Retrieved 4 December 2014.

[7] "S. Korean female climber reaches top of tallest building". yonhapnews.co.kr. 20 May 2017. Retrieved 20 May 2017.

[8] ripped (2023-07-10). "Jain Kim Becomes Oldest Woman to Win Gold". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 2023-07-16.

[9] wedding invitation sent from Oh Younghwan(GLAD Hotel, 15:00, 12 December 2015). Retrieved 15 November 2015.

[10] "Jain Kim gave birth to a daughter". Archived from the original on 2021-12-25.

[IFSC_Worldcups-11] IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.

[IFSC_profile-12] IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Kim's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.

[13] Kim, Jennifer (2015-10-17). "'Running Man' Kim Ja In Picks Haha". KDramaStars. Retrieved 2021-10-08.

[14] "노는언니2". www.imtcast.com. Retrieved 2021-10-08.