Lydia de Crescenzo
Lydia de Crescenzo was an Italian fashion designer known as Lydia de Roma (Lydia of Rome), specialising in sportswear.
Biography
de Crescenzo was born in Buenos Aires and grew up in Paris.[1] Her father, who worked in the fashion industry as a buyer,[2] came to Italy just before World War II and opened a shop for imported goods, with the assistance of his daughter as a designer.[3] After the War, there was no ability to import goods, resources were low, and their business was in danger, which inspired de Crescenzo to make clothing out of unwanted trousseau sheets and tablecloths, and even mattress ticking, incorporating the embroidery already on the linens.[3] de Crescenzo told Marcia Corbino of the Sarasota Journal, that when she started out in business, it was very difficult for professional women in Italy to be taken seriously; and that clever businesswomen were distrusted.[3]
She launched the Lydia de Roma business in 1961.[4] By 1962 Lydia de Roma clothing was being retailed by Neiman Marcus and becoming known for its sophisticated use of Italian fabrics and needlework.[5] Marjorie Griswold, the influential buyer for Lord & Taylor who had introduced Emilio Pucci and Claire McCardell among others to the department store's clientele, noted Lydia de Roma as one of her recent discoveries in 1964.[6] de Crescenzo's distinctive embroidered motifs were drawn from various sources, such as 16th century flower designs from Heinrich Cornelius Agrippa's Strange Medical Gallery.[7]
By 1977, de Crescenzo's two daughters, Nicoletta and Rossella,[2] had joined her in business, helping her design.[3] Nicoletta had already had designing success as Nicoletta of Rome, creating clothing to be manufactured by Montgomery Ward and sold through their Brentshire Designers line in 1966,[8] as well as having her work presented alongside her mother's.[7] In 1977 Lydia de Crescenzo was still working to the cottage industry principle, employing home-workers to embroider and sew her work, including women whose husbands would not allow them to work away from home and young convent students.[3]
Awards
- 1967: Neiman Marcus Fashion Award for producing "Italy's finest hand-embroidered play clothes."[9][10]
References
- "Silhouettes Move Easily". The Atlanta Constitution. 7 Jan 1973. Retrieved 21 June 2022.
- Gilmore, Joan (1 October 1975). "America Delights Italian". The Daily Oklahoman. p. 42. Retrieved 21 June 2022.
- Corbino, Marcia (23 February 1977). "Italian Designer Opts for Handmade". Sarasota Journal. Retrieved 21 June 2022. Part 2
- "LYDIA DE ROMA Trademark of DE CRESCENZO, LYDIA". trademark.trademarkia.com. Trademarkia. Retrieved 21 June 2022.
- Staff, S. I. (29 Jan 1962). "News in the Old Art of Concealment". Sports Illustrated. Retrieved 21 June 2022.
- "Store Buyer Enjoys Living A Double Life". The New York Times. 8 January 1964. Retrieved 21 June 2022.
- Zill, Jo Ahern (November 1967). "Dressing in your Element". LOOK magazine.
- Paasch, Barbara (26 May 1966). "European Lines Come to Ward's". Harvey Markham Tribune. Retrieved 21 June 2022.
- "Italian Designer to be Honored by N-M". Commerce Journal, Texas. 2 Feb 1967. Retrieved 20 June 2022.
- McDowell, Colin (1984). McDowell's Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion. Frederick Muller. pp. 302–303. ISBN 0-584-11070-7.