Maripol

Maripol (b. 1955)[1] is an artist, film producer, fashion designer and stylist. She has had an influence on the looks of influential artists such as Madonna and Grace Jones. As part of the 1980s New York downtown scene, she captured the likes of Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring, Andy Warhol, and Debbie Harry with her Polaroid camera. Maripol also produced films, most notably Downtown 81.

Maripol
Born
Rabat, Morocco
Occupation(s)artist, film producer and fashion designer
Known forDesigned and styled Madonna in the 1980s

Life and career

Maripol was born in Rabat, Morocco.[2] She was a student of the École des Beaux-Arts in Nantes, France.[2] She was brought up in France, moving to New York City at the age of 19 in 1976 with her then-boyfriend Edo Bertoglio.[3] Within a year, she was working as a designer at Italian fashion label Fiorucci, where she would soon become art director.[4]

Maripol took her first Polaroid with an SX-70 camera in 1977. She photographed the characters frequenting Studio 54, including Andy Warhol, Steve Rubell, Bianca Jagger, Jerry Hall, and Grace Jones.[5] Her photographs of the Mudd Club have been exhibited at the Rizzoli and Earl McGrath galleries in Manhattan and published in V magazine.[6]

In 1979, Maripol met Jean-Michel Basquiat, then a graffiti artist under the pseudonym SAMO, and the two would soon become close acquaintances. She was the art director for Downtown 81, a film starring Basquiat and featuring Blondie lead singer Deborah Harry and with musical interludes by many New York No Wave bands. The film was directed by her then-partner Edo Bertoglio and written and produced by Glenn O'Brien. It was filmed in 1980-81 as New York Beat, but it wasn't released until 2000 as Downtown 81.[7] Executive producer Michael Zilkha enlisted Maripol to work on post-production of the film, which premiered at the Director's Fortnight in Cannes.[8]

Maripol met pop singer Madonna in 1982. She styled her looks for the albums Madonna (1983) and Like a Virgin (1984), including the music videos "Burning Up" (1983), "Like a Virgin" (1984), and "Dress You Up" (1985).[9] Madonna's trademark black rubber bracelets, jewellery and crucifixes became an iconic fashion trend of the 1980s.[10] Maripol also made a line of official Madonna jewelry and accessories for the 1985 Virgin Tour.[11] By the mid-80s, Maripol had achieved some success with her own shop, Maripolitan, in the NoHo area of New York.[3]

The deaths of Maripol's friends Warhol, in 1987, and Basquiat in 1988 affected her profoundly. Maripol closed her shop Maripolitan and moved to Los Angeles, where she would marry, before returning to New York to raise her son, Lino.[3]

Maripol was the art director on music videos for Cher, D’Angelo, Elton John, and Luther Vandross. She also has art directed films by Marcus Nispel and Abel Ferrara.[11][3]

In February 2010, Maripol had a collection of jewelry and tee shirts in the Marc by Marc Jacobs stores, inspired by the jewelry she created in the 1980s.[12]

In 2013, Maripol directed The Message, a documentary about Keith Haring, for his retrospective at the Musée d'Art Moderne in Paris.[13]

In 2014, she released the book Maripol: Little Red Riding Hood, a collection her photographs, sketchbooks and inspirational material.[14] She also published the book Maripola X, featuring 200 of her Polaroid photographs and 69 previously unpublished poems, written in both French and English.[15] That year, she released "Love Each other", her first record as singer with the French composer and producer Léonard Lasry which followed her collaboration with the French fashion label Each x Other.[16]

Maripol has been published in various publications such as The New York Times Magazine, ELLE, i-D, WWD, InStyle, The Village Voice and Time Out New York.[11]

Exhibitions

Maripol's photographs have been exhibited at the Rizzoli and Earl McGrath galleries in New York.[6] Her work has also been exhibited at P.S.1 Contemporary Art Center, the Robert Miller Gallery and Deitch Projects in New York, as well as at the Museé Maillol in Paris.[11]

Books

  • Basquiat, Jean-Michel; O'Brien, Glen (2001). New York Beat: Jean-Michel Basquiat in Downtown 81. Petit Grand Publishing. ISBN 978-4-939102-22-6.
  • Maripolarama, powerHouse Books, November 2005 ISBN 978-1-57687-272-7
  • Maripol: Little Red Riding Hood, Damiani, September 2010 ISBN 978-88-6208-136-8

References

  1. "Maripol | MoMA". The Museum of Modern Art. Retrieved 2023-02-26.
  2. "Sade electrifies a New York party: Maripol's best photograph". The Guardian. 17 December 2020. Retrieved 2020-12-17.
  3. "Maripol | Polaroid Artist | Art For Sale". Archeus Post-Modern. Retrieved 2020-09-29.
  4. Bateman, Kristen (19 September 2017). "Oral History: Remembering New York's Fiorucci Store". The New York Times. Retrieved 17 February 2019.
  5. Pulgar, E. R. (2020-12-15). "From punks to club kids, Maripol documented 80s New York after dark". i-D. Retrieved 2021-04-30.
  6. Blanks, Tim (February 25, 2001). "Mudd Quake". The New York Times. Retrieved 2020-09-29.
  7. "Revisiting "Downtown 81": Maripol's Love Letter to Basquiat, and His New York City". Interview Magazine. 2019-11-12. Retrieved 2020-09-29.
  8. Kaufman, Anthony (13 July 2001). "INTERVIEW: Out of the Past: "Downtown 81's" New York Odyssey". IndieWire. Retrieved 17 February 2019.
  9. "Maripol". IMDb. Retrieved 2021-04-30.
  10. Barr, Sabrina (July 26, 2018). "Dress you up: Meet Maripol, the woman behind Madonna's early, iconic look". Yahoo. Retrieved 2021-04-27.
  11. "Maripol Shot Madonna". www.missrosen.com. August 13, 2009. Retrieved 2020-09-29.
  12. Shepherd, Julianne Escobedo, "Q&A: Iconic Designer Maripol on New Wave New York and Her Reissues with Marc Jacobs", The Fader, June 29, 2010.
  13. Moss, Sy (March 14, 2017). "What We're Watching: Keith Haring's The Message". 5 Magazine. Retrieved 2021-04-30.
  14. Bennett, Kim Taylor (11 March 2014). "A Conversation with New York Legend—Photographer Maripol". Noisey. Retrieved 17 February 2019.
  15. Bennett, Kim Taylor (11 March 2014). "A Conversation with New York Legend—Photographer Maripol". Noisey. Retrieved 17 February 2019.
  16. ""Love each other": Maripol & Léonard Lasry". Document Journal. 2015-05-29. Retrieved 2020-09-29.
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