Muriel Sarkany

Muriel Sarkany (born August 5, 1974) is a Belgian professional rock climber. She is known for winning five Climbing World Cups. She also climbs outdoors, and is considered the fourth-ever female climber in history to climb a 9a (5.14d)-graded route (PuntX, Gorges du Loup, FRA).

Muriel Sarkany
Muriel Sarkany in 2012
Personal information
NationalityBelgian
Born (1974-08-05) August 5, 1974
Brussels, Belgium
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height153 cm (5 ft 0 in)
Weight47 kg (104 lb)
Websitehttps://www.instagram.com/muriel.sarkany/?hl=fr
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Known forFirst person, male or female, to win the annual lead climbing World Cup 5 times, 4th Woman in history to climb 9a (5.14d)
Medal record
World Cup
Winner1997Lead
Silver medal – second place1998Lead
Winner1999Lead
Silver medal – second place2000Lead
Winner2001Lead
Winner2002Lead
Winner2003Lead
Silver medal – second place2004Lead
Bronze medal – third place2007Lead
World Championships
Silver medal – second place1997Lead
Silver medal – second place1999Lead
Silver medal – second place2001Lead
Winner2003Lead
Silver medal – second place2007Lead
European Champion
Winner1998Lead
Bronze medal – third place2002Lead
Rock Master
Winner1999Lead
Winner2000Lead
Winner2001Lead
Updated on October 16, 2017.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Sarkany started climbing at the age of 17 and at the age of 18 started participating in international lead climbing competitions. She became Youth World Champion in Basel in 1992.

She won the silver medal three times for lead climbing at the World Championships (1997, 1999, and 2001), and the gold medal in 2003.[1]

Sarkany was the 1998 European Lead Champion and won the bronze medal at the 2002 European Lead Championships.

After a break from competition climbing in 2005 and 2006, she returned in 2007 to win the silver medal at the World Championships in Avilles, and the bronze medal at the World Cup that year.

She won the Lead Climbing World Cup 5 times in 1997, 1999, 2001, 2002, and 2003.

She retired in 2010, and as of 2022, still holds the record for the most Lead World Cup gold medals (male or female).

Rock climbing

After retiring from competition climbing, Sarkany devoted herself to outdoor rock climbing. In November 2013, at the age of 39, she became the fourth-ever woman in history to climb a 9a (5.14d) graded route when she ascended PuntX in the (Gorges du Loup, FRA).

In 2016, at 43 years old, Sarkany ascended Era Vella in Margalef in Spain, becoming the first woman aged over 40 to climb a 9a (5.14d) graded route.

Rankings
See also: Best IFSC results

World Championships Lead Climbing

Early on, she won a gold medal in the junior category. In the adult difficulty, after three silver medals at the 1997, 1999, and 2001 UIAA Climbing World Championships, Muriel Sarkany became the 2003 World Climbing Champion and is a finalist in the 2007 IFSC Climbing World Championships.

Climbing World Cup[2]

Muriel won 31 podiums at the World Cup of Difficulty.

  • Winner of the difficulty world cup for the years 1997, 1999, 2001, 2002 and 2003.
  • Silver medal for the years 1995, 1998, 2000 and 2004.
  • Bronze medal in 2007.
Discipline 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010
Lead 24 9 5 7 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 2 5 15 3 12 9 20

Climbing World Championships[3]
Discipline 1993 1995 1997 1999 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009
Lead 17 4 2 2 2 1 10 2 24

Climbing European Championships[3]
Discipline 1996 1998 2000 2002 2006 2008 2010
Lead 5 1 5 3 12 13 18
Bouldering - - - - - 12 -

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[3]
Muriel Sarkany competing in Puurs, 2007
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
199522
199611
1997314
1998123
19991214
20001124
2001235
2002426
20035117
20043216
200611
200732
Total2120647

Other tributes

She is represented on the Fresque des Wallons painting in Namur, in Belgium.

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

9a (5.14d):

  • Era Vella - Margalef (ESP) - September 2017[4][5]
  • Punt-X - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - November 21, 2013 - At the time, Sarkany became the 4th female climber in history to climb a 9a route.[6]

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

  • Ingravids Eskerps - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 8, 2012[8]
  • Rollito Sharma Extension - Santa Linya - February 4, 2012
  • Last soul sacrifice - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - September 30, 2011
  • Quoussaï les maux de la fin - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - September 13, 2011[9]
  • Hot chili X - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - August 28, 2011[10]
  • Drop City - Antalya (TUR) - April 5, 2008[11]

8b+ (5.14a):

  • Hot Chilli Beans Volcano - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - August 7, 2011
  • Soul Sacrifice - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - July 25, 2011
  • Le mur des cyclopes - Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux(FRA)- March 10, 2011
  • Collection automne hiver - Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux (FRA) - October 17, 2010
  • Trio Ternura - Santa Linya (ESP) - May 31, 2010[12]
  • Rolito Sharma - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 10, 2009[13]
  • Philippe cuisinière - Rodellar (ESP) - October 3, 2009
  • El chorreras - Rodellar (ESP) - September 29, 2009
  • Mortal combat - Castillon (FRA) - December 10, 2003
  • Skyline - Bürs (AUT) - July 18, 2003

See also

References
  1. planetmountain.com, ed. (July 14, 2003). "Sarkany e Mrazek Campioni del mondo Difficoltà. Jenny Lavarda è 4a". Retrieved March 10, 2012.
  2. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  3. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Sarkany's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  4. Up-Climbing (ed.). "Sarkany climbs Era Vella in Margalef".
  5. Planet Mountain, ed. (30 September 2017). "Sarkany redpoints 9a".
  6. Planet Mountain (ed.). "Sarkany climbs 9a at the Gorges du Loup".
  7. mountainblog.it (ed.). "Sarkany climbs La Rubla (8c+)".
  8. up-climbing.com, ed. (March 10, 2012). "Ancora 8c per Muriel Sarkany". Archived from the original on March 9, 2016. Retrieved March 10, 2012.
  9. planetmountain.com, ed. (September 16, 2011). "Secondo 8c estivo per Muriel Sarkany". Archived from the original on April 12, 2013. Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  10. Björn Pohl (31 August 2011). ukclimbing.com (ed.). "Hot chili X by Muriel Sarkany and more". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  11. belclimb.be, ed. (April 9, 2008). "First 8c for Muriel". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  12. belclimb.be, ed. (June 3, 2010). "Muriel Sarkany enchaîne Trio Ternura 8b+". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  13. belclimb.be, ed. (December 22, 2009). "Muriel Sarkany sent Rollito Sharma 8b+". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
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