Offset figure-eight bend

The offset figure-eight bend is a poor knot that has been implicated in the deaths of several rock climbers.[1][3][4] The knot may capsize (invert) under load, as shown in the figure, and this can happen repeatedly.[5] Each inversion reduces the lengths of the tails. Once the tails are used up completely, the knot comes undone.

Offset figure-eight bend
NamesOffset figure-eight bend,
flat figure-eight bend[1],
abnormal figure-eight bend[2]


An offset figure-eight knot inverting itself

More secure knots for this purpose are the Flemish bend (the "figure eight bend"), (doubled) offset overhand bend, or double fisherman's knot.

See also

References

  1. Moyer, Tom (1999-11-09). "Pull Tests of the "Euro Death-Knot"". Rope and Gear Testing. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
  2. "Rock Climbing Tech Tips: Joining Two Ropes". Chockstone.org. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
  3. "Rappel Knot Fails, Climber Falls to Death on the Goat Wall". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
  4. "Fall on Rock, Failure of Rappel-Knot Came Undone, No Hard Hat, West Virginia, Seneca Rocks". Accidents in North American Mountaineering. The American Alpine Club. 1995.
  5. Dahlberg, Robin. "Cross load test of common climbing knots". Vimeo. 0:08-0:35. Retrieved 2020-06-10.
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