Olivais, Lisbon

The location of the Olivais headquarters, before its use. 19th century engraving. Drawing perhaps from the 16th century. At this time, Sacavém, on a bend in the Tagus, was visible from the temple site

The parish was created in 1397, probably resulting in the division of a part of Beato (to the south) and Sacavém (to the north) thanks to the intervention of the first bishop of Lisbon João Anes (bishop).[3]

The parish was duly sanctioned through a papal bull issued on the 1st of July in 1400 by Pope Boniface IX.

The creation of this new ecclesiastical entity was orchestrated by incorporating territory from the Lisbon Term. It is worth noting that these lands, long before their inclusion in the Parish of Olivais, had previously comprised the outskirts of the city, situated beyond Chelas. The Marvila district, once home to Moorish mosques, had been in the possession of the bishopric since the year 1149. Furthermore, it is presumed that this land may have also been affiliated with the Parish of Sacavém, which was established in the 12th century, potentially encompassing the areas of Marcos, Encarnação, and Portela. The demarcation of boundaries in this regard was somewhat vague and subject to fluctuation.

Map of the Term of Lisbon in 1527[4]

A map of the Lisbon Term from the year 1527 provides a visual representation of this historical context.

Granted to the capital city in 1385 by the benevolent D. João I, as a token of gratitude for services rendered to the nation and the monarchy, this Lisbon Term, in essence, extended as follows: encompassing the entire expanse of the kingdom from the western coastline along the Atlantic Ocean, to the south along the same ocean and the Tagus River, to the east along the Tagus River, and demarcated to the north, conceivably, by the Alcabrichel River on the ocean side, and the Ota River on the Tagus side. Consequently, the area that would later evolve into the parish in question fell under the administrative and policing jurisdiction of the city of Lisbon. This state of affairs endured until the 19th century.[5]

While this donation by the Master of Avis was undeniably advantageous for Lisbon, it gave rise to dissatisfaction among those who had vested interests incorporated within it. Notably, D. Nuno Álvares Pereira, the lord of the reguengos of Sacavém, Unhos, Frielas, and Charneca, voiced his grievances to the monarch. However, through a letter of sentence issued on the 13th of April in 1429, the wise king adeptly addressed the concerns of this distinguished military figure, reconciling their respective interests. In his ruling, the monarch declared, "we judge that the said city exercises jurisdiction over the said places freely, unencumbered by the letters of donation presented by the said count, and without prejudice to him in this matter." ("julgamos q.a dita cidade aja as jurisdições dos ditos lugares liuremente, e husse dellas sem embargo das cartas das doações mostradas da parte do dito conde (estabre), e ssem embargo daquilo q. da sua parte he dito").[6]

Reproduction of the original area of the parish of Olivais

The exact date of the construction of the parish church remains unknown. Nevertheless, given the year of the parish's formation, we can place it at least in the 14th century, although there are no records of its founders. The story, preserved in tradition, that the patron saint's image was found within the hollow of an olive tree trunk, leading to the naming of the new jurisdiction as Nossa Senhora or Santa Maria dos Olivais, appears to be of a legendary nature. However, the said trunk, which the vicar of the time had ordered to be uprooted and preserved, was kept in the sacristy until 1700.[7][8]

In 1420, at the invitation of the vicar himself, the Congregation of Secular Canons of Saint John the Evangelist had their first temple there. However, this priest's hospitality ended with the expulsion of the friars, likely due to personal differences, and for this or other reasons, Archbishop D. Jorge da Costa united the church with the chapel of Nossa Senhora da Conceição at the Lóios Convent, near the São Jorge Castle of Lisbon, where they had been since 1442. Until 1834, the tithes of the parish belonged to the Lóios Convent. The church of Olivais became or already was a "vicarage, presented by the Rector of the Santo Eloy Convent."[9]

Santa Maria dos Olivais Church

These were the beginnings of an era when the parish, as noted by Gomes de Brito, was a "repository of youthful affections, pious beliefs, grateful and salutary memories" and, at the same time, a "sacred ground where fathers, brothers, sons, and wives slept beneath the gravestones," serving as a focal point for collective attraction and strong, enduring bonds.[10]

Indeed, countless hours, both solemn and joyful, were spent under the welcoming roof of the Virgin Mary, while a multitude of bodies found their resting place in the church and its courtyard, where weathered gravestones, especially in the main altar area, still bear the names of respectable figures from the jurisdiction. Particularly notable are the two side chapels of the nave, one on the left dedicated to Gomes Alpoim de Brito and his family, with the tomb located at the rear, and the one on the right, more recently used, presumably by Diogo de Brito Delgado and family members residing in Panasqueira, possibly succeeding another older owner.

Coat of arms of Olivais municipality

Holy water fonts on either side of the porch confirm the ownership of the two chapels, with their heraldic shields carved on them. In the left one, there are the Alpoim arms, and in the right, an unidentified coat of arms, perhaps belonging to one of the Esteves families in the vicinity, one of which had its roots at Fonte da Pipa, or possibly the aforementioned Brito Delgado family, connected to the Ataídes family, and in this case, with no prior bearers before them. Gomes Alpoim de Brito, who obtained his coat of arms on November 17, 1573, and was married to his cousin, D. Ana de Figueiroa de Barros, was the grandson of Amador Alpoim, the royal finance clerk of D. Duarte, president of the Municipal Senate, and founder of the Morgado dos Marcos, headquartered at the Quinta dos Alpoins. He was widowed in 1609 and passed away on August 25, 1621, being the husband of D. Ana de Barros.

The proximity to Lisbon benefited the new parish, whose area witnessed numerous settlements. However, in return, the central area occupied by the church experienced slow progress in contrast to the more rapid development of peripheral zones, especially those along the Tagus River on this side of Cabo Ruivo, which had been considered beautiful environs of Lisbon from the beginning.[11]

Nevertheless, the chosen location for building the temple, which was restored in the 16th and 17th centuries, reconstructed after 1755, and renovated again in the 19th century, is roughly equidistant from the boundaries of Sacavém and the beach (entry and exit points). It overlooks the kneeling valley, until recently, at the foot of Vale Formoso de Cima, Laje, and Aldeia. This choice doesn't seem purely coincidental.

Parish flag

It is believed that Nossa Senhora dos Olivais owes its existence to the requests of the local population, given the difficulty of attending religious services in the distant churches of Lisbon and Sacavém, which were heavily dependent on poor transportation, particularly during the winter. This was the case with Charneca on November 6, 1511, where three brotherhoods served the parish under the names of Nossa Senhora do Rosário, das Almas, and do Santíssimo, with only the latter still in existence today. The same applied to Camarate in terms of the number and names of confraternities.

The construction of the railway in 1856 triggered the establishment of industries that benefited from both the proximity to the railway line and the nearby river port of Olivais, which remained complementary to rail transport for a considerable period.

Palácio do Contador-Mor

Following the undeniable trend that progressive urban centers tend to absorb neighboring rural areas, the municipality began to decline toward the end of the 19th century.

Fragmented and gradually parceled into a scarcely profitable domain, the Parish of Olivais, until the end of the 19th century, represented an attractive enclave for the Lisbon aristocracy. Alas, it fell victim to the inevitable tide of progress, much like its neighboring parishes. It was, fundamentally, a place of leisure, frequented for holidays and, much later, retreats, renowned along the Road to Sacavém. Despite its crucial role in supplying the city, it naturally became a target for Lisbon's expansion, albeit through a gradual process of annexation. The following phases emerged from this process, on the peripheral fringes of the parish, intrinsic to its involvement in the Lisbon Term.

Firstly, the law of August 20, 1654, annexed the parishes of the Term to the neighborhoods of Lisbon for the purposes of law enforcement and criminal prosecution, without, however, incorporating them within their jurisdiction. Subsequently, the position of Corregedor do Crime (Crime Magistrate) of the Term was abolished, subjecting the 42 judicatures he oversaw to the jurisdiction of the city's magistrates, naturally including that of Olivais.

Olive trees in Olivais: the Portuguese for olive trees is, in fact, Olivais

At that time, a substantial portion of the Olivais parish was commonly regarded as integrated into the capital, so intertwined were the extremities of both, and so enriched were the former by their lucrative association with the latter.[12]

Announcement from Companhia Real dos Caminhos de Ferro Portugueses, for round-trip tickets from Lisbon to Olivais at special prices, on the occasion of the feast of São Sebastião in 1872

Nonetheless, the boundaries of the splendid city, established by decree on December 3, 1755, and confirmed by royal decree on May 12, 1758, extended from the Tejo River to Santa Apolónia on one side, with Olivais bordering the Vale de Chelas. On the Sacavém side, the delineations of the parish encompassed Marcos, Encarnação, Portela, and the Road to Sacavém, in the vicinity of Bela Vista.[13]

In 1756, a relatively short period later, the vast eastern territory was carved out for the first time with the establishment of the new parish of Beato, which encompassed Chelas, Fonte do Louro up to Cruz do Almada, Rua Direita de Marvila, Grilo, Beato, and Poço do Bispo. Officially established in 1770, this valuable jurisdiction was altered by the 1780 plan, which returned Rua Direita de Marvila to Olivais. In 1811 and 1834, it participated in the city's division into 13 neighborhoods, featuring prominently in Alfama.[14]

Following a judicial division approved by decree on August 7, 1835, it was structured into six judicatures, each with its own Term. The Alfama neighborhood judicature comprised the parishes of São Bartolomeu da Charneca, Campo Grande, São João da Talha, Santa Iria da Azoia, Olivais, Sacavém, São Tiago dos Velhos, and Vialonga. On May 21, 1841, these arrangements served as the basis for a new administrative division of Lisbon, now reduced to six neighborhoods, with Olivais also participating in Alfama.

View of the Olivais Railway Station on the Linha do Norte, opened on October 28, 1856, integrating the first section of the railway in Portugal.

Olivais

The Municipality of Olivais was created by decree on September 11, 1852, issued by the Ministry of the Kingdom, which established new boundaries for the city of Lisbon.

Until municipal elections were held, the civil governor of Lisbon would appoint an Administrative Committee for the new municipality, endowed with the functions typically assigned to municipal councils. However, all the responsibilities conferred by laws and regulations regarding census and elections, until these took place, would be exercised in the Municipality of Olivais by the Municipal Council of Lisbon.

Furthermore, the government would designate a state building to serve as the Town Hall for the new municipality. The administration of properties that Lisbon held within the annexed territory would continue to belong to Lisbon. The revenue from municipal taxes that the Lisbon Municipal Council had acquired through auction until the establishment of the Municipality of Olivais would still be collected by the respective Municipal Council until the end of the respective auctions. The government also committed to annually provide the Municipality of Olivais with a sum equivalent to the expenses incurred by the Lisbon Municipal Council in the territory of the newly created municipality related to public lighting and road maintenance, until these matters were regulated. Finally, the Civil Governor of Lisbon would provisionally determine, within 60 days, the new municipality's boundaries, which, after a year, would become definitive, subject to a proposal from the same governor, accompanied by information from the competent authorities and any received complaints, a proposal contingent upon government confirmation or alteration.[15] Between 1852 and 1886 Santa Maria dos Olivais formed a large municipality, predominantly rural, including 22 civil parishes.

Limits of Olivais municipality

It covered an area of approximately 223 square kilometers and had a population of 25,495 inhabitants in 1864,

which increased to 29,491 inhabitants by 1878.

The headquarters of the Olivais Municipal Council were situated at Largo do Leão in São Jorge de Arroios. This building still stands today, currently housing the Professional School of Arts, Technologies, and Sports (EPAD), after serving as a primary school for many years.

Indeed, by a decree dated July 18, 1885, the Lisbon municipality annexed the parishes of Beato, Charneca, Ameixoeira, Lumiar, Campo Grande, and even the parish of Olivais to the Municipality of Olivais.

Following the dissolution of the Belém municipality, the parishes of Carnide and Odivelas were temporarily incorporated into the Municipality of Olivais, albeit for only one year. In 1886, the southernmost parishes were integrated into the city of Lisbon, and the following year, the municipality's seat was relocated to the town of Loures, thereby formally dissolving the Municipality of Olivais and establishing the new Municipality of Loures. The parish of Santo Estêvão das Galés became part of the Mafra municipality.

Bedeteca Municipal de Lisboa

The Olivais Municipal Council convened for the last time in its official capacity at the Town Hall, now situated outside its boundaries at Largo do Leão, on December 30, 1886. The council members included the following: President, Barão de Vale Formoso, Tomás António Barbosa Leitão; Vice-President, João Antunes Pomba; and Councillors, Manuel Rodrigues Azevedo, Olegário Luís António de Sousa, Joaquim Marques Ferreira, Fernando Silvestre Alves, and Francisco Pereira Pedroso. On January 2, 1887, the council administered the oath of office to the new Municipal Council of Loures in the same location. On the 3rd of January, the same council convened an extraordinary meeting to address various matters, including urgent contracts, public lighting, municipal personnel, and the cleanliness of some parishes. The first regular session took place on January 7, with the council remaining at the "extinct" Municipality of Olivais until July. The session on the 7th was conducted in the council's own premises at the Palácio dos Marqueses da Praia in the Mealhada district.

Additionally, on a temporary basis, the parishes of Camarate and Sacavém (intramuros) remained within the jurisdiction of Lisbon until 1895 when they permanently transitioned to the Loures municipality.

Torres dos Olivais, by Manuel Tainha and Raul Hestnes Ferreira

On September 26, 1895, a decree was approved that separated the extramural part of the Sítio dos Marcos from the Olivais Parish and joined it to the newly created Loures Municipality. Later, by Decree No. 15,222 dated March 23, 1928, the extramural part of the Sítio dos Marcos became the Moscavide Parish.[16]

Torres dos Olivais, by Manuel Tainha and Raul Hestnes Ferreira

Beginning in 1903, the city's last fiscal checkpoint was established in the former jurisdiction established by D. João Anes. It had posts in Encarnação, with the building located in front of the local church (which was demolished in 1940); Quinta do Cabeço; Moscavide; Rua Conselheiro Mariano de Carvalho, No. 5 to 7; Cabo Ruivo, with its location in Vale Formoso de Baixo at No. 198-A (since demolished); Braço de Prata, in front of the Arco das Panelas; and Beato, with a building in Marvila.

1940 saw the construction of the first structures of Lisbon Airport, in fact, significant part of the territory of the Olivais parish is occupied by said airport. Humberto Delgado Airport served approximately 28.4 million passengers in 2022, being the busiest airport in Portugal, the fourth busiest in the Iberian Peninsula and the 14th busiest in Europe.[17][18]

TAP Headquaters

Urbanization plan of Olivais Sul by José Rafael Botelho

On February 7, 1959, a decree was approved that altered the administrative division of Lisbon, creating new parishes and adjusting existing ones. As a result, the massive Olivais parish was reduced to the following boundaries: "Starting from the edge of the Tejo River near Cabo Ruivo, it follows northwest along the axis of Lisbon's Second Circular Road. After passing the airport roundabout, it continues for about 1100 meters along the projected axis of the aforementioned circular road until it reaches the point closest to the same circular road, near the longest runway of Lisbon Airport (N.E.-S.W.). From here, it continues, skirting the airport, along the western side (along the edge of the lands reserved by the Directorate-General of Civil Aviation for the expansion of runways) until it reaches the circumferential road that limits the city and the municipality of Lisbon. It then continues east along the municipal boundary until it reaches the Tejo River. Finally, it turns south, following the riverbank until the starting point." [19]

Aerial view of Olivais highlighting Humberto Delgado airport and surrounding areas

In the second half of the XX century the parish experienced sustained demographic growth. During this period many buildings were built, with contribution also from renowned Portuguese architects such as Cândido Palma de Melo, José Rafael Botelho and Raul Hestnes Ferreira.

Subway in Olivais

In the 1960s, with the occupation of regional properties already in the possession of the Lisbon Municipal Council, the parish gained in terms of real estate and population what it had gradually lost in proportion, shedding its rustic characteristics and picturesque divisions that had been maintained for nearly 600 years. The parish became an highly urbanized area located within the historic region of Estremadura.

Cabo Ruivo metro station.

In 1960 the Olivais swimming pool opened. It was the first swimming pool in Portugal to have an Olympic-sized pool. Along with swimming pools in Areeiro and Campo Grande, it is considered exemplary of 1960s Portuguese architecture.The swimming pool was built as an outdoor pool complex according to plans by the architects Eduardo Paiva Lopes and Aníbal Barros da Fonseca. It lies in the valley between the neighborhoods of Olivais Sul and Encarnação on Avenida de Berlim. The sports complex closed in 2006 but was heavily expanded (it now houses four swimming pools as well as other sports facilities) in 2015.[20][21][22][23]

In 1998 Olivais and Cabo Ruivo metro stations opened to the public, being the first two stations of Lisbon metro ever built in Olivais parish. Their inauguration coincided with Expo 1998.

Olivais' new boundaries after the 2012 administrative reform

In 2012, as part of the administrative reorganization of the city of Lisbon, the parish of Santa Maria dos Olivais (then renamed to the Parish of Olivais) was subdivided, losing approximately 25% of its territory (the waterfront area of the former Expo '98) to the new parish of Parque das Nações. Additionally, it underwent some adjustments in its boundaries with neighboring parishes.[24][25]

Olivais panoramic view

In 2012 three additional stations of Lisbon metro opened in the parish. They are, respectively, Moscavide, Encarnação and Aeroporto. The latter connects Lisbon airport with the city centre, making travel between the two extremely easy.