Patxi Usobiaga

Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (born September 7, 1980), best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an 8c+ (5.14c) route.

Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza
Usobiaga in 2009
Personal information
Born (1980-09-07) September 7, 1980
Eibar, Spain
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height174 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight62 kg (137 lb)
Websitewww.patxiusobiaga.com
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Known forWinning 2 World Cups and being first who onsighted an 8c+ (5.14c) route
Medal record
World Cup
Winner2006Lead
Winner2007Lead
Silver medal – second place2009Lead
World Championships
Silver medal – second place2003Lead
Silver medal – second place2005Bouldering
Silver medal – second place2007Bouldering
Gold medal – first place2009Lead
European Championships
Gold medal – first place2008Lead
Updated on October 31, 2017.

Biography

Usobiaga started climbing in Atxarte when he was 10 years old. For four years he was belayed by his father. When he was 15, he climbed his first 8a route, ConanDax Librarian, in Araotz. When he was 18 he redpointed his first 8b route, Parva Naturalia, in Araotz.

From 1997 to 1999 he participated in youth competitions. In 2000, he started competing at the Lead Climbing World Cup. In 2003 he earned his first gold medal in Edinburgh. When he was 26 he earned his first Lead climbing World Cup.[1] Next year, he won his second one.[2] Due to these outstanding achievements he was awarded the Salewa Rock Award in 2007.

In 2009 he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Qinghai (CHN).[3] At the end of 2009 he underwent a shoulder surgery and after three months of rehabilitative therapy he started training again.

In June 2010 a car accident caused a painful slipped disk.[4] In 2011, he announced his retirement from competitions.

He climbed 267 routes graded between 8a and 9a+, 158 of which were onsighted. He was the first climber who onsighted a 8c+ route (Bizi Euskaraz, in Etxauri, 2007).[5]

Rankings
See also: Best IFSC results

Climbing World Cup[6]
2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010
Lead 67 4 5 6 1 1 4 2 4

Climbing World Championships[7]
1999 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009
Lead 61 49 2 2 2 1
Bouldering - - - - - 21

Climbing European Championships[7]
2002 2004 2006 2008 2010
Lead 20 9 38 1 6

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[7]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2003112
200422
2005112
20061416
20071315
2008112
2009134
2010112
Total613625
Usobiaga competing at the Spanish Lead Climbing Championship, 2010

Rock climbing

Number of ascended routes:

Redpointed routes

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

  • PuntX – Gorges du Loup (FRA) – September 10, 2010[11]
  • Hades – Nassereith (AUT) – August 23, 2009 – Redpointed on second attempt. First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008[12]
  • Action directe – Frankenjura (DEU) – October 24, 2008 – Eleventh ascent[13]
  • Nice to eat you – Pierrot beach (FRA) – July 22, 2008 – Second ascent. First ascent by Mike Fussilier
  • Fabela Pa La Enmienda – Santa Linya (ESP) – March 22, 2008
  • Mendeku – Egino (ESP) – December 16, 2007 – Second ascent. First ascent by Iker Pou
  • Fuck The system – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 9, 2007 – First ascent
  • Esclatamasters – Perles (ESP) – December 7, 2007 – Third ascent. First ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué
  • Faxismoaren txontxogiloak – Etxauri (ESP) – December 22, 2007 – First ascent
  • Begi Puntuan – Etxauri (ESP) – December 1, 2006 – First ascent[14]
  • Kinematix – Gorges du Loup (FRA) – June 14, 2006
  • Psikoterapia – Valdegobia (ESP) – July 8, 2004 – First ascent
  • Iñi Ameriketan – Baltzola (ESP) – April 1, 2003
  • Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – March 21, 2003 – First ascent

Onsighted routes

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Bizi Euskaraz – Etxauri (ESP) – December 11, 2007 – First ascent and first-ever 8c+ onsight in history. Project by Ekaitz Maiz.[5]

8c (5.14b):

  • Absinth – Sparchen (AUT) – July 25, 2010[15]
  • Nuska – Baltzola (ESP) – August 1, 2008
  • Home sweet home – Pierrot Beach (FRA) – July 20, 2008[16]
  • Omerta – Urnersee (CHE) – July 15, 2008[17]
  • Mosca cullonera – Montsant (ESP) – November 30, 2007
  • Pata negra – Rodellar (Bierge, (ESP) – October 7, 2006[18]
  • Gaua – Lezain (ESP) – October 10, 2005[19]

See also

References
  1. Vinicio Stefanello (November 23, 2006). planetmountain.com (ed.). "World Cup Lead 2006: vittoria di Patxi Usobiaga e Angela Eiter". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  2. planetmountain.com, ed. (November 19, 2007). "World Cup Lead 2007 a Usobiaga e Vidmar". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  3. Vinicio Stefanello (July 7, 2009). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Campionati del mondo di arrampicata – Qinghai (CHN)". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  4. (in Spanish) Isaac Fernández (February 4, 2011). desnivel.com (ed.). "Patxi Usobiaga, frenado por una lesión". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  5. planetmountain.com, ed. (December 13, 2007). "Patxi Usobiaga show: Bizi euskaraz primo 8c+ a vista del mondo". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  6. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  7. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Usobiaga's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  8. planetmountain.com, ed. (November 14, 2017). "Patxi Usobiaga surpasses himself on Pachamama at Oliana". Retrieved November 15, 2017.
  9. planetmountain.com, ed. (December 4, 2007). "Patxi Usobiaga a spasso su La Rambla, e non solo". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  10. planetmountain.com, ed. (August 2, 2004). "Patxi Usobiaga ripete Realization 9a+ a Ceuse". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  11. up-climbing.com, ed. (September 10, 2010). "Usobiaga ripete Punt-X 9a". Archived from the original on March 8, 2016. Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  12. planetmountain.com, ed. (September 15, 2009). "I limiti dell'arrampicata: il 9a come riscaldamento?". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  13. Jack Geldard (27 October 2008). ukclimbing.com (ed.). "Patxi Usobiaga repeats Action Directe F9a". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  14. planetmountain.com, ed. (December 4, 2006). "Usobiaga ripete Begi puntuan, Marin Garcia e Sharma ripetono La Rambla 9a+". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  15. up-climbing.com, ed. (July 28, 2010). "8c a vista per Patxi Usobiaga". Archived from the original on August 1, 2010. Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  16. Dougald MacDonald. climbing.com (ed.). "Patxi Usobiaga Onsights 5.14b/c". Archived from the original on August 26, 2011. Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  17. desnivel.com, ed. (July 17, 2008). "Otro 8c a vista para Usobiaga". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  18. Chris Van Leuven (15 October 2006). ukclimbing.com (ed.). "Usobiaga Onsights Second 8c". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  19. desnivel.com, ed. (November 10, 2005). "Patxi Usobiaga, 8c a vista con Gaua". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
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