Peshwaj

Peshwaj (peshwaz, paswaj, tilluck, dress) was a ladies outfit similar to a gown or jama coat with front open, tied around the waist, having full sleeves, and the length was full neck to heels. Peshwaj was one of the magnificent costumes of the mughal court ladies. The material was used to be sheer and fine muslins with decorated borders of zari and lacework.[1][2][3][4][5]

Style

The ladies' attire was a combination of Peshwaj, trousers, decorative patka, a cap (edged with lace or brocade), shaluka, angia (bodice) and an odhani to cover the upper part of the body and head. The central opening of Peshwaj was covered by the phentas tucked in at the waist.[6] The Mughal Paintings depicted ladies wearing various outfits such as Peshwaj and heavy jewelry.[1][7][8] It was a famous costume in the 17th century for both Hindu and Muslim ladies.[9]

Peshwaj was paired with Ekpatta.[10][11][12]

Mentions

There are eleven types of such coats are mentioned in the Ain-i-Akbari, Abu'l-Fazl ibn Mubarak explained Takauchiyah was a coat with round skirt tied on the right side. And Peshwaj, as an open in front and tied in front. Added to the same there were sixty ornamental stitches for these royal coats.[13][14]

Present

Peshwaj is in use in many parts of India.[9] It is a much-appreciated costume for wedding ceremonies in India and Pakistan. Bhakhtawar Bhutto wore a pink Peshwaj dress at her engagement.[15] Soha Ali Khan wore Ritu Kumar designed Peshwaz dress at her Mehndi.[16] Khushi Kapoor was praised when she donned the Peshwaz dress designed by Manish Malhotra.[17]

See also

References
  1. Sodhi, Jiwan (1999). A Study of Bundi School of Painting. Abhinav Publications. pp. 27, 91, 224. ISBN 978-81-7017-347-2.
  2. Goswamy, B. N. (1993). Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles. D.S. Mehta. p. 156.
  3. Agrawal, C. M. (1993). Dimensions of Indian Womanhood. Shri Almora Book Depot. p. 298. ISBN 978-81-85865-02-7.
  4. Verma, S. P. (2002). Art and Culture: Painting and Perspective. Abhinav Publications. p. 106. ISBN 978-81-7017-405-9.
  5. Sharīf, Jaʻfar (1863). Qanoon-e-Islam: Or the Customs of the Mussulmans of India. Higginbotham.
  6. Goswamy, B. N. (2002). Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles. D.S. Mehta. p. 42.
  7. ''Abul Fazl , Ain - i - Akbari , vol.III , Pers . Text , P. 144 ; Gulbadan Humayun Nama . Tr . ( Bev ) to face page 162 ; the Painting shows some Mughal ladies wearing Peshwaz ; also Abdul Majid Salik Muslim Saqafat ( Urdu ) p . 461 ; also Shibli ...'' Muslim Women in Medieval India - Page 81books.google.co.in › books Zinat Kausar · 1992
  8. Goswamy, B. N. (2002). Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles. D.S. Mehta. p. 65.
  9. ''By the seventeenth century, the peshwaz had become very fashionable in the Muslim and Northern Hindu courts and is seen with similar long gowns in many paintings of the time. The Gita Govinda series of miniatures from the Punjab hills ...'' Page 246, 248 Costumes and Textiles of Royal India - Page 246books.google.co.in › books Ritu Kumar, Cathy Muscat · 2006
  10. Dimensions of Indian womanhood. Internet Archive. Almora, U.P. Hills, India : Shri Almora Book Depot. 1993. p. 298. ISBN 978-81-85865-05-8. These ladies also used a veil called ekpatta and the angia or bodice under the gown. Besides, they used the Sarwar and slippers with pointed toes. In some cases the Kurta and Muhurum replaced the Peshwaj and winter brought into use an embroidered shawl{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  11. Martin, Robert Montgomery (2012-06-14). The History, Antiquities, Topography, and Statistics of Eastern India: In Relation to Their Geology, Mineralogy, Botany, Agriculture, Commerce, Manufactures, Fine Arts, Population, Religion, Education, Statistics, Etc. Cambridge University Press. pp. 103, 104. ISBN 978-1-108-04652-7.
  12. Crooke, William (1888). Rural and agricultural glossary for the N.W. Provinces and Oudh. Superintendent of Government Printing, Calcutta. p. 91.
  13. Congress, Indian History (1954). Proceedings of the Indian History Congress. p. 212.
  14. Chopra, Pran Nath (1963). Some Aspects of Society & Culture During the Mughal Age (1526-1707). Shiva Lal Agarwala. p. 4.
  15. Rehman, Maliha (2020-11-30). "A closer look at Bakhtawar Bhutto-Zardari's engagement outfit by Nida Azwer". Images. Retrieved 2021-01-19.
  16. Desk, India TV News (2015-01-24). "Soha Ali Khan's mehendi ceremony: Bride along with Kareena, Saif look all happy (see inside pics)". www.indiatvnews.com. Retrieved 2021-01-19.
  17. "Roundup 2020: Celebs who ruled hearts with Manish Malhotra's ethnic designs". The Siasat Daily. 2020-12-25. Retrieved 2021-01-19.
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