Pit Schubert
Pit Schubert (born 2 December 1935 in Wrocław) is a German non-fiction author, climber and mountaineer. He is the founder and former head of the safety commission of the German Alpine Club (DAV).[1]
Pit Schubert | |
---|---|
Born | Wrocław | 2 December 1935
Occupation | Author, climber and mountaineer |
Nationality | German |
Genre | Non-fiction |
Notable works | Modern Felstechnik |
Life
Schubert started climbing and mountaineering at the age of 17. He became known for both his first ascents and his adherence to alpine doctrines.
He is a qualified engineer, and worked for approximately 15 years in the aerospace industry. In 1968, he was a founding member of the DAV Safety Group, which he chaired until retiring in 2000. He was also president of the UIAA Safety Commission.[2] He worked to standardize climbing equipment, prevented innumerable accidents,[3] and he stated that "At that time man was making the first flight to the moon a reality, but we were still using ice axes with wooden shafts – which could break on the first use on the ice – so a lot of things were waiting to be done.” .
First ascents
- 1967: Piz Ciavazes, South Wall, Via Schubert ( VI + , 220 m), Sellagruppe, Dolomites
- 1968: Guglia di Brenta, SW-edge, Schubert / Werner ( VI, 380 m), Brenta group, Dolomites
- 1969: First ascent of the Roc Noir (Khangsar Kang, 7485 m), Karakorum
- 1975: Fleischbank, Neue Ostwand, Pohlke / Schubert (VIII, 360 m), Kaisergebirge
- 1976: First ascent of the south flank of Annapurna IV (7525 m), Annapurna Massif[4]
Books
- Modern Felstechnik, Bergverlag Rother, 1975
- The application of the rope in ice and rock, Bergverlag Rother, 1998, ISBN 3-7633-6082-4
- Alpine rope technique for beginners and advanced, Bergverlag Rother, 2000, ISBN 3-7633-6083-2
- (Alpine club leader extreme) Kaisergebirge, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2000. ISBN 3-7633-1272-2
- Via ferrata, Bergverlag Rother, 2003, ISBN 3-7633-6019-0
- Safety and Risk in Rock and Ice, Bergverlag Rother, Volume 1, 7th Edition, 2004, ISBN 3-7633-6016-6 ; Volume 2, 2002, ISBN 3-7633-6018-2 ; Volume 3, 2006, ISBN 3-7633-6031-X
- Alpine Curriculum, Vol. 5: Safety at the Mountain, BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, 2003, ISBN 3-405-16632-2
- Anecdotes from the mountain: Amusing stories of mountaineering, climbing and skiing, Bergverlag Rother, 2010, ISBN 3-7633-7039-0 [5][6]