Mahasthangarh

Mahasthan means a place that has excellent sanctity and garh means fort. Mahasthan was first mentioned in a Sanskrit text of the 13th century entitled Vallalcharita. It is also mentioned in an anonymous text Karatoya mahatmya, circumstantially placed in 12th–13th century. The same text also mentions two more names to mean the same place – Pundrakshetra, land of the Pundras, and Pundranagara, city of the Pundras. In 1685, an administrative decree mentioned the place as Mastangarh, a mixture of Sanskrit and Persian meaning fortified place of an auspicious personage. Subsequent discoveries have confirmed that the earlier name was Pundranagara or Paundravardhanapura, and that the present name of Mahasthangarh is of later origin.[6]

Mahasthangarh (Pundranagar), the ancient capital of Pundravardhana is located 11 km (6.8 mi) north of Bogra on the Bogra-Rangpur highway, with a feeder road (running along the eastern side of the ramparts of the citadel for 1.5 km) leading to Jahajghata and site museum.[7] Buses are available for Bogra from Dhaka and take 41⁄2 hours for the journey via Bangabandhu Jamuna Bridge across the Jamuna River. Buses are available from Bogra to Mahasthangarh. Rickshaws are available for local movement. Hired transport is available at Dhaka/ Bogra. Accommodation is available at Bogra.[8] When travelling in a hired car, one can return to Dhaka the same day, unless somebody has a plan to visit Somapura Mahavihara at Paharpur in the district of Naogaon and other places, or engage in a detailed study.

It is believed that the location for the city in the area was decided upon because it is one of the highest areas in Bangladesh. The land in the region is almost 36 metres (118 ft) above sea level, whereas Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh, is around 6 metres (20 ft) above sea level. Another reason for choosing this place was the position and size of the Karatoya, which as recently as in the 13th century was three times wider than Ganges.[9]

Mahasthangarh stands on the red soil of the Barind Tract which is slightly elevated within the largely alluvium area. The elevation of 15 to 25 metres above the surrounding areas makes it a relatively flood free physiographic unit.[10]

Several personalities contributed to the discovery and identification of the ruins at Mahasthangarh. Francis Buchanan Hamilton was the first to locate and visit Mahasthangarh in 1808, C.J.O'Donnell, E.V.Westmacott, and Beveridge followed. Alexander Cunningham was the first to identify the place as the capital of Pundravardhana. He visited the site in 1879.[6]

On 19 April 2004, The Daily Star reported that locals were looting bricks and valuables from the site. They were also building residences on the site ignoring government regulations.[11]

The citadel (see map alongside), the fortified heart of the ancient city, is rectangular in plan, measuring roughly 1.523 kilometres (0.946 mi) long from north to south, and 1.371 kilometres (0.852 mi) from east to west, with high and wide ramparts in all its wings. Area of the citadel is approximately 185 ha.[9] The Karatoya, once a mighty river but now a small stream, flows on its east.[2]

Till the 1920s, when excavations started, the inside of the citadel was higher than the surrounding areas by over 4 metres and was dotted with several straggling elevated pieces of land. The rampart looked like a jungle clad mud rampart with forced openings at several points. The rampart was 11–13 metres (36–43 ft) higher than the surrounding area. At its south-east corner stood a mazhar (holy tomb). A later day mosque (built in 1718–19) was also there.[6]

At present there are several mounds and structural vestiges inside the fortifications. Of these a few of note are: Jiat Kunda (well which, according to legends, has life giving power), Mankalir Dhap (place consecrated to Mankali), Parasuramer Basgriha (palace of a king named Parasuram), Bairagir Bhita (palace of a female anchorite), Khodar Pathar Bhita (place of stone bestowed by God), and Munir Ghon (a bastion). There are some gateways at different points: Kata Duar (in the north), Dorab Shah Toran (in the east), Burir Fatak (in the south), and Tamra Dawaza (in the west)[2] At the north-eastern corner there is a flight of steps (a later addition) that goes by the name of Jahajghata. A little beyond Jahajghata and on the banks of the Karatoya is Govinda Bhita (a temple dedicated to Govinda). In front of it is the site museum, displaying some of the representative findings. Beside it is a rest house.

Gokul Medh, Bogra

Besides the fortified area, there are around a hundred mounds spread over an area with a radius of 9 km. (See map alongside).

Excavated mounds:[2]

1. Gobhindo Bhita, a temple close to the north-eastern corner of the citadel
2. Khulnar Dhap, a temple 1 km north of the citadel
3. Mangalkot, a temple 400m south of Khulnar Dhap
4. Godaibari Dhap, a temple 1 km south of Khulnar Dhap
5. Totaram Panditer Dhap, a monastery 4 km north-west of the citadel
6. Noropotir Dhap (Vashu Bihara), a group of monasteries 1 km north-west of Totaram Ponditer Dhap (said to be the place where Po-shi-po Bihara mentioned by Xuanzang (Hieun Tsang) was located)
7. Gokul Medh (Lokhindorer Bashor Ghor), a temple 3 km south of the citadel
8. Shkonder Dhap, a temple 2 km south-east of Gokul Medh

Major unexcavated mounds:[2]

1. Shiladebir Ghat
2. Chunoru Dighi Dhap
3. Kaibilki Dhap
4. Juraintala
5. Poroshuramer Shobhabati
6. Balai Dhap
7. Prochir Dhibi
8. Kanchir Hari Dhibi
9. Lohonar Dhap
10. Khujar Dhap
11. Doshatina Dhap
12. Dhoniker Dhap
13. Mondirir Dorgah
14. Bishmordana Dhibi
15. Malinar Dhap
16. Malpukuria Dhap
17. Jogir Dhap
18. Podmobhatir Dhap
19. Kanai Dhap
20. Dulu Mojhir Bhita
21. Podda Debhir Bhita
22. Rastala Dhap
23. Shoshitola Dhap
24. Dhonbandhor Dhap
25. Chader Dhap
26. Shindinath Dhap
27. Shalibahon Rajar Kacharibari Dhipi
28. Kacher Angina
29. Mongolnather Dhap
30. ChhoutoTengra/ Babur Dhap/ Kethar Dhap
31. 

    entrance of mahasthangarh
    Boro Tengra/ Shonyashir Dhap

Systematic archaeological excavation of Mahasthangarh was first started in 1928–29 under the guidance of K.N.Dikshit of the Archaeological Survey of India. The areas around Jahajghata, Munir Ghon and Bairagir Bhita were explored. Excavation was resumed in 1934–36 at Bairagir Bhita and Govinda Bhita. Excavation was carried out in 1960s around the Mazhar, Parasuramer Prasad, Mankalir Dhap, Jiat Kunda and in a part of the northern rampart. In the next phase excavation was carried out sporadically in parts of the east and north ramparts but the final report is yet to be published. In the period 1992–98 excavation was conducted in the area lying between Bairagir Bhita and the gateway exposed in 1991 as a Bangla-Franco joint venture, which is now in its second phase with excavation around the mazhar in the western side of the citadel.[12]

The Mauryan period Mahasthan inscription in Brahmi, recording a land grant.[4]

Buddha Sculpture

The excavations have led to the recovery of a large number of items, a few of which are listed here.

Inscriptions: A 4.4 cm x 5.7 cm limestone slab bearing six lines in Prakrit in Brahmi script, discovered accidentally by a day labourer in 1931 was an important find. The text appears to be a royal order of Magadh, possibly during the rule of Asoka. It dates the antiquity of Mahasthangarh to 3rd century BC. An Arabic inscriptional slab of 1300–1301 discovered in 1911–12 mentions the erection of a tomb in honour of Numar Khan, who was a Meer-e-Bahar (lieutenant of the naval fleet). A Persian inscriptional slab of 1718–19 records the construction of a mosque during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Farrukhsiyar.[13]

Coins: Silver punch marked coins are datable to a period between the 4th century BC and the 1st–2nd century AD. Some uninscribed copper cast coins have been found. Two Gupta period coins have been reported from a nearby village named Vamanpara. A number of coins belonging to the sultans of 14th–15th century and British East India Company have been found.[13]

Ceramics: Mostly represented by a vast number of shards.[13]

Sculpture: A 5th century Buddha stone sculpture recovered from Vasu Vihara, a Lokesvara stone sculpture showing blending of Vishnu and Avalokiteśvara, salvaged from neighbouring Namuja village, a number sandstone door-frames, pillars and lintels (datable to 5th–12th century), numerous Buddha bronze sculpture datable to 10th–11th century, a terracotta Surya discovered at Mankalir Bhita, and numerous other pieces.[13]

Terracotta Plaques: A number of terracotta plaques have been discovered.

Many of these are on display in the site museum, which is open Sunday to Thursday summer:10 am to 6 pm, winter:9 am to 5 pm. Recess:1–2 pm, Friday recess is from 12.30 to 2.30, opens at 9 am in summer, other timings same. Summer timings 1 April to 30 September, winter timings 1 October to 30 March.[2] Books on Mahasthangarh and other archaeological sites in Bangladesh (in Bengali and English) are available at the ticket counter for the site museum.

In a 2010 report titled Saving Our Vanishing Heritage, Global Heritage Fund identified Mahasthangarh as one of 12 worldwide sites most "On the Verge" of irreparable loss and damage, citing insufficient management (poor water drainage in particular) and looting as primary causes.[17]

There is a local legend that Shah Sultan Balkhi Mahisawar arrived at Pundravardhana in the garb of a fakir (mystic holy pedlar of Islamic philosophy) riding a fish. (Mahisawar is Persian word meaning a 'person who rides a fish'). He came from Balkh in Afghanistan with a retinue. The period of his arrival is variably put at 5th century AD, 11th century AD and 17th century AD. At that time there was a king named Parasuram with his seat and palace in Mahasthangarh. Mahisawar requested Parasuram for a piece of land to spread his prayer mat on which he could pray. The request was granted but the prayer mat started expanding as soon as it was laid on the ground. When the prayer mat reached the area around the palace bewildered Parasuram declared war. In the beginning the battle seemed to be favouring Parasuram. A scavenger Harapala informed Mahisawar that it was difficult to defeat the royal troops because of the pool called Jiat Kunda. A dead soldier bathed in the waters of Jiat Kunda came back to life. On knowing this Mahisawar asked a kite to drop a piece of beef in Jiat Kunda. When this was done, the pool lost its powers. The royal troops were on the verge of defeat. The commander of the royal troops, Chilhan, with a large number of his followers, went over to Mahisawar. Thereafter Parasuram and many members of the royal family committed suicide.[7] There are many variations of this anecdote, some of which are sold in Bengali booklets in and around Mahasthangarh/Pundravardhana.

Mahasthangarh dates back to at least 3rd century BC and is acknowledged as the earliest city-site discovered thus far in Bangladesh. Somapura Mahavihara at Paharpur in Naogaon District was once the biggest Buddhist monastery south of the Himalayas. It dates from the 8th century AD. Mainamati ruins in Comilla District date back to 6th–13th centuries AD.[8] In neighbouring West Bengal, the ruins of Pandu Rajar Dhibi on the banks of the Ajay River in Bardhaman district date back to 2000 BC. However, this recent archaeological discovery has not yet been properly studied by outside experts and specialists in this field, and as such the historical value of many of the statements must be considered as uncertain.[18] The ruins at Chandraketugarh in 24 Parganas South and Rajbadidanga in Murshidabad district date back to the early years of the Christian era.[19]

• Somapura Vihara
• Halud Vihara
• Vasu Vihara
• Ananda Vihara
• Sitakot Vihara[20]

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  Boundary wall of Mahasthangarh
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  Ornamental stone carving on display at Mahasthangarh
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  Mankalir Mound
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  Govinda Bhita just outside the Mahasthangarh citadel
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  Place of Parshuram
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  Karatoya River by the Mahasthangarh citadel
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  Lakshindar Behular Basar Ghar at Gokul
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  Gokul Medh
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  Gokul Medh
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  Mahasthangarh
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  Mahasthangarh
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  Govinda Vita
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  Govinda Vita
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  Govinda Vita
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  Mahasthangarh Museum
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  Mahasthangarh Museum
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  Mahasthangarh Museum
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  Place of Parshuram
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  Bihar Dhap
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  Mahasthangarh Museum
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  Mahasthangarh Museum

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  mahasthangarh wall
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  resort of mahashangarh
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  wall of mahasthangarh
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  mahasthangarh
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  distance view
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  mahasthangarh
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  Mahasthangarh
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  mahasthangarh wall

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Mahasthangarh.

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• Alam, Shafiqul (2012). "Mahasthan". In Islam, Sirajul; Jamal, Ahmed A. (eds.). Banglapedia: National Encyclopedia of Bangladesh (Second ed.). Asiatic Society of Bangladesh.
• Explore Mahasthangarh with Google Earth on Global Heritage Network

• List of archaeological sites in Bangladesh