Puran Puri

He first set out to travel to Rameswaram, a holy pilgrimage site at the tip of the Indian peninsula which is one of the Chardhams (four sacred Hindu pilgrimage sites).

His route took him through the cities of Kalpi, Ujjain, Burhanpur, Aurangabad, Ellora, crossing the Godavari near Toka, passing by Pune, Satara, Bidanur and Srirangapatna. Using the Thamarassery Churam mountain pass he crossed into Malabar, then onwards to Cochin and Rameswaram.

From Rameswaram, Puran Puri took a northwards detour to the Jagannath Temple, another of the Chardhams, in Puri, Orissa.

Returning to Rameswaram, he then crossed over into Ceylon (Sri Lanka), visiting the capital Kandy, the pilgrimage town Kataragama by the Menik Ganga river, and the Sri Pada or "sacred footprint" on Adam's Peak.[1]

Leaving Sri Lanka, Puran Puri returned by sea to Cochin on the west coast of India, travelling via Bombay to Dwarka, which is another the Chardhams, and Hinglaj, an important Hindu pilgrimage place in current day Balochistan, Pakistan. Passing through Multan and beyond Attock, he took a westward detour to visit Haridwar in India.

Continuing his eastward journey, Puran Puri passed through the Punjab to Kabul and Bamyan where he noted the great statues.[1]

Near Ghazni in modern south-eastern Afghanistan, Puran Puri came into contact with the army of Ahmed Shah Abdali, the founder of the state of Afghanistan. Ahmed Shah had an ulcer on his nose, and since Puran Puri was an Indian ascetic, Shah consulted him regarding the ulcer. Having no knowledge of medicine or surgery however, Puran Puri used his wits to get out of the situation by suggesting that there might be a link between the Shah's kingship and the ulcer, because of which it might not be advisable to remove one lest it affect the other.[1]

From Afghanistan, Puran Puri travelled through Khorasan via Herat and Mashhad, to Astrabad (Gorgan) in Iran. From here he made his way to the Maha Jwala Mukhi ("flaming mouth")[1] in Surakhani, a suburb of Baku in present-day Azerbaijan, where a castle-like fire temple and monastery complex existed on a pocket of natural gas that produced a flame from natural gas seepage.

After spending almost a year at the Jwala Mukhi, Puran Puri went on to the city of Astrakhan, on the banks of the river Volga in southern Russia, where he met up with resident Hindus. As Astrakhan was the Russian gate to the Orient, many merchants from Mughal India had settled there.

The Volga was frozen at this time, and travelling on the frozen river for eighteen days, he reached Moscow.[1] Since in Moscow Puran Puri was inconvenienced by the large crowds of curious Russians who flocked to see him, unwittingly disturbing him in his devotions, he decided not to proceed further, and to return.[4] This was the western-most destination in his travels.

From Moscow, Puran Puri returned to Astrakhan, and via the Silk Road cities of Shamakhi, Shirvan, Tabriz and Hamadan, reached Isfahan. Isfahan was one of the largest cities in the world, and after a stay of forty days there, he then proceeded to Shiraz in the Fars Province of current day Iran. In Shiraz, Puran Puri was part of an audience with Karim Khan Zand.[1]

From the port of Bushehr on the southern coast of Iran, he travelled to Kharg, a small island 25 km off the Iranian coast. From here, he continued on to the island of Bahrain.[1]

From Bahrain, Puran Puri re-embarked for Basra, in Iraq, where he found some Hindu traders. He tried to travel up the river Tigris to Baghdad but was unable to do so, and returned to Basra.[1]

From Basra, Puran Puri made his way to the port of Muscat in present-day Oman. From here he briefly voyaged to Surat on the west coast of the Indian subcontinent, but soon embarked on another voyage to the port city of Mocha in Yemen. From Yemen he returned to the Indian subcontinent at the port he called 'Sanyanpoor' on the Sindh or Kutch coast.[1]

Puran Puri's next journey was to Balkh in present-day Afghanistan on the Uzbekistan border, where he observed Hindus settled, and to Bukhara in present-day Uzbekistan. From here he proceeded to the city of Samarkand.[1]

From Samarkand, Puran Puri travelled to Badakhshan, from where he made his way to Kashmir and Gangotri, a Hindu pilgrim town and the origin of the river Ganges. Travelling to the south-east from there, he reached Awadh.[1]

From Awadh, Puran Puri made his way into Nepal, visiting Kathmandu and other places including crossing five km into Tibet to visit Gosainthan, "place of the saint" or "Abode of God".

Returning to Kathmandu, he ventured further into Tibet by crossing into Khasa and Tingri and reached Lhasa. From there he made his way to Drongtse, near the seat of the Panchen Lama (also called the Teshu / Teshoo Lama) and finally to Lake Mansarovar, a sacred place in Hinduism.[1]

At this time, the Governor General Warren Hastings was trying to access China as a market for Bengal textiles, using the Panchen Lama's influence. On his way back, the Lama entrusted over a sealed package, a letter and a spinning wheel as a gift for Hastings to Puran Puri. Along with this, the Panchen Lama also gave Puran Puri five ingots of silver and 200 tolas (around 2 kg) of gold for himself.

Puran Puri returned to India on a Tangun horse, given to him by the Lama. When Captain Samuel Turner came across Puran Puri in Calcutta on his way back in 1783, he was assisted by two gosains and clothed in a satin dress, also given to him by the Lama.[5]

After delivering the items to Hastings, he was presented with letters of introduction to Maharaja Chait Singh of Benares,[1] through whom Hastings arranged for an ample maintenance as a reward.