Ramón Julián Puigblanqué

Ramón Julián Puigblanque (also known as Ramonet, which means little Ramon in Catalan language; born November 9, 1981, in Vic) is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in competition lead climbing and sport climbing. He won two World Championships, in 2007[2] and 2011,[3] three European Championships, in 2004[4] 2010[5] and 2015,[6] and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010.[7] From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages.[8] He has also redpointed several sport routes above 9a (5.14d), and made the first free ascent of La Rambla.

Ramón Julián Puigblanque
Puigblanque competing at Imst, 2010
Personal information
NationalitySpanish
Born (1981-11-09) November 9, 1981
Vic (Barcelona, Spain)
Height159 cm (5 ft 3 in)
Weight48 kg (106 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known forWinning 2 World Championships and 21 World Cup stages
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing  Spain
World Games
Gold medal – first place2013Lead
World Championships
Gold medal – first place2007 AvilésLead
Gold medal – first place2011 ArcoLead
Silver medal – second place2014 GijónLead
World Cup
Winner2010Lead
European Championships
Bronze medal – third place2002Lead
Gold medal – first place2004Lead
Gold medal – first place2010Lead
Silver medal – second place2013Lead
Gold medal – first place2015Lead
Updated on November 13, 2017.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

He started climbing when he was a child with his parents[9] and competed in senior categories from 2001. On November 17, 2002, he took his first victory and first podium in the Lead World Cup, in Kranj, which was the last stage of the 2002 season.[10]

In 2004, he won the gold medal at the European Championships in Lecco, Italy.[4]

In 2007, he took his first gold medal at the World Championships in Avilés, Spain,[2] and ended the Lead World Cup in second place.[11]

In 2010, he won his first Lead World Cup title, with three wins and a second place[7] and took his second gold medal at the European Championships in Imst, Austria.[5]

In 2011, he won his second gold medal at the World Championships in Arco, Italy[3] and ended the Lead World Cup in second place.[12]

Rock climbing

On March 8, 2003, he came to wider attention with the first free ascent of La Rambla, in Siurana, one of the first 9a+ (5.15a) sport climbing routes in history, and the highest grade at that time.[13] In the same year he ended the Lead World Cup in second place with three wins, two seconds and two podiums finishes. The Cup was won by Alexandre Chabot, with five wins and two seconds.[14]

On May 29, 2006, he succeeded in onsighting the 8c (5.14b) sport route Suma O in Cuenca, Spain. Puigblanque became the fourth person ever to onsight at grade 8c after Yuji Hirayama, Tomáš Mrázek and Patxi Usobiaga.[15][16]

On October 11, 2011, he became the third person ever to onsight a sport climbing route at grade 8c+ (5.14c), after Patxi Usobiaga and Adam Ondra, with the onsight of The Crew in Rifle, Colorado.[17][18]

Rankings
See also: Best IFSC results

Climbing World Cup[8]
Discipline 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Lead 8 10 2 10 4 5 2 3 5 1 2 2 3 6 6 16 30
Puigblanque competing at 2007 Rock Master

Climbing World Championships[19]

Youth[19]

Discipline 2000
Juniors
Lead 13

Adult[19]

Discipline 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016
Lead 6 7 10 1 16 1 4 2 9

Climbing European Championships[19]
Discipline 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010 2013 2015 2017
Lead 3 1 30 5 1 2 1 55

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[19]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
200211
20033227
20040
20052114
2006213
2007134
2008112
200911
2010314
20112327
2012314
2013213
201411
2015112
Total2114843

Notable ascents

The table below shows the impressively large number of routes graded 8a (5.13b) or more ascended by Puigblanque in about 16 years, from August 10, 2001 (when he redpointed his first 8a) to November 27, 2017. The total number is 1123, of which 13 were at 9a+ (5.15a) and 345 were onsights, including 1 onsight at 8c+ (5.14c).[20][21]

Number of ascended routes
GradeRedpointFlashOn-sightTotal
9a+ (5.15a)1313
9a (5.14d)3636
8c+ (5.14c)85186
8c/8c+ 44
8c (5.14b)13426142
8b+ (5.14a)152222176
8b (5.13d)134255191
8a+ (5.13c)100292194
8a (5.13b)1057169281
Total763153451123

Redpointed routes

9b (5.15b):

  • Mejorando Imagen - Margalef (ESP) - July 26, 2013 - First ascent. Initially graded 9a, Alex Megos would upgrade the route to 9b after his ascent in April 2021.[22]

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

  • San Ku Kaï - Entraygues (FRA) - August 4, 2011[29]
  • Le Cadre Nouvelle Version - Céüse (FRA) - August 3, 2011
  • Duele la realidad - Oliana (ESP) - November 1, 2010 - First ascent[30]
  • Samfaina - Margalef (ESP) - July 4, 2010 - Second ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma)[31]
  • Era Vella - Margalef (ESP) - June 5, 2010 - Second ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma)
  • Supernowa - Vadiello (ESP) - September 12, 2009
  • El Gran Bellanco - Montanejos (ESP) - May 1, 2009 - First ascent by Pedro Pons, 2003
  • La Novena enmienda - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 9, 2008
  • Fabelita r2 - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 9, 2008
  • Fuck The system - Santa Linya (ESP) - November 29, 2008[32]
  • Victimas Perez - Margalef (ESP) - October 26, 2008 - First ascent
  • Gancho perfecto - Margalef (ESP) - July 5, 2008 - Second ascent (first ascent by Chris Sharma)[33]
  • El templo del cafe - Alquezar (ESP) - March 24, 2008
  • M. ALBA - Savassona (ESP) - December 2, 2007
  • Definicion de resistencia democrata - Terradets (ESP) - November 20, 2007[34]
  • Esclatamasters - Perles (ESP) - April 17, 2006 - First ascent
  • Estado critico - Siurana (ESP) - March 15, 2004 - First ascent[35]
  • KinematiX - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - August 13, 2002

Onsighted routes

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

  • Amistad - Rodellar (ESP) - September 11, 2009[37]
  • Malsoñando - Gandía (ESP) - November 23, 2006
  • iron man r2 - Rodellar (ESP) - September 10, 2006
  • Suma O - Cuenca (ESP) - May 29, 2006[38]

See also

References
  1. "Ramon Julian Sends Three New 5.14's in Spain". rockandice.com. 4 April 2013. Retrieved 11 May 2013.
  2. "IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results". planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  3. Vinicio Stefanello. "Final Lead Men report". arco2011.it. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  4. "UIAA European Championship - Lecco (ITA) 2004". ifsc-climbing.org. 27 June 2004. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  5. Vinicio Stefanello (21 September 2010). "European Championship 2010, the results". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  6. "European Championship - Chamonix (FRA) 2015". ifsc-climbing.org. 12 July 2015. Retrieved 26 July 2017.
  7. "Ramón Julián, campeón de la Copa del Mundo" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 15 November 2010. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  8. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  9. Xavier Maduell (December 2010). "Entrevista a Ramon Julián" (in Spanish). feec.cat. Archived from the original on 14 April 2013. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  10. "UIAA Worldcup - Kranj (SLO) 2002 - Result: MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. 17 November 2002. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  11. "World Cup Lead 2007 won by Usobiaga and Vidmar". planetmountain.com. 20 November 2007. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  12. "Puigblanque reigns in Spain, along with Eiter, Kim and Markovic". planetmountain.com. 29 November 2011. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  13. "Ramonet y La Rambla, 9a+" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 17 March 2003. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  14. "UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2003: MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. 31 December 2003. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  15. Dougald MacDonald (June 2006). "Ramonet Onsights 5.14b". climbing.com. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  16. "Ramonet, 8c a vista" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 31 May 2006. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  17. "Ramon Julien Puigblanque 8c+ on-sight". planetmountain.com. 13 October 2011. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  18. "Ramon Julián escala 8c+ a vista con 'The crew', en Rifle (EE.UU)" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 13 October 2011. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  19. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Puigblanque's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  20. Puigblanque, Ramon Julian. "List of climbed routes". 8a.nu. Retrieved November 27, 2017.
  21. Puigblanque, Ramon Julian. "List of climbed boulder problems". 8a.nu. Retrieved November 27, 2017.
  22. "Mejorando Imagen". Retrieved September 10, 2022.
  23. up-climbing.com, ed. (July 2, 2012). "9a+ e 9a+/b per Ramonet". Archived from the original on March 5, 2016. Retrieved July 6, 2012.
  24. up-climbing.com, ed. (June 27, 2012). "Ramonet, 9a+ a Santa Linya". Archived from the original on March 5, 2016. Retrieved July 1, 2012.
  25. up-climbing.com, ed. (October 13, 2010). "Ramonet: 2^ ripetizione di Demencia Senil 9a+". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  26. Björn Pohl (22 March 2009). ukclimbing.com (ed.). "3rd ascent of Papichulo by Ramonet". Retrieved August 27, 2012.
  27. planetmountain.com, ed. (December 10, 2008). "Santa Linya e Ramon Julian Puigblanque". Retrieved August 30, 2012.
  28. desnivel.com, ed. (March 17, 2003). "Ramonet y La Rambla, 9a+". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  29. desnivel.com, ed. (August 8, 2011). "Otro noveno de Ramonet con 'Sankukai' en Entraygues". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  30. Björn Pohl (2 November 2010). ukclimbing.com (ed.). "9a FA by Ramonet". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  31. Björn Pohl (5 July 2010). ukclimbing.com (ed.). "Ramonet makes 2nd ascent of Samfaina, 9a". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  32. (in Spanish) desnivel.com, ed. (December 1, 2008). "Ramón Julián repite Fuck the system (9a)". Retrieved August 27, 2012.
  33. desnivel.com, ed. (July 7, 2008). "Ramón Julián repite Gancho perfecto (9a)". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  34. desnivel.com, ed. (November 22, 2007). "Ramonet repite Definición de resistencia demócrata (9a+)". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  35. desnivel.com, ed. (March 17, 2004). "Ramón Julián en Estado crítico". Retrieved August 27, 2012.
  36. up-climbing.com, ed. (October 13, 2011). "Ramon Julian 8c+ a vista". Archived from the original on October 16, 2011. Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  37. Björn Pohl (13 September 2009). ukclimbing.com (ed.). "Ramonet on form". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
  38. ukclimbing.com, ed. (June 2006). "8c onsight by Ramonet". Retrieved January 8, 2012.
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