Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou
Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (born 8 August 1963), is an American rock climber and rock climbing coach. In competition lead climbing, she is a 4-time World Cup champion (1992, 1993, 1994, 1995), and won the biennial World Championships in 1995. She is the third-ever woman in history to redpoint a 5.14a (8b+) graded sport climbing route. She has coached several competition climbers, including Megan Mascarenas, Margo Hayes and her daughter, Brooke Raboutou.[1][2]
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| Nationality | American | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | August 8, 1963 Atlanta, Georgia | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Rockclimbing coach | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 1.57 m (5 ft 2 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 43 kg (95 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Website | raboutoufamily | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Known for | Winning 4 World Cups and 1 World Championship | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Climbing career
Competition climbing
Erbesfield won the world's first Climbing World Cup (Leeds in 1989) as a relative unknown. She quickly gained sponsorship and traveled around the world to compete on the new World Cup circuit. She went on to win the overall title for four consecutive World Cups from 1992 to 1995.[1][3]
Rock climbing
Coaching
She founded the climbing gym ABC Kids Climbing in Boulder, Colorado which focuses on developing agility, balance, and coordination in young climbers. Many of its graduates are climbing 5.14, and performing well in national and international climbing competitions.[4] Two of the four American athletes who qualified for the 2020 Olympics in sport climbing, Brooke Raboutou and Colin Duffy, were both members of Team ABC, which also produced Margo Hayes, the first woman to climb a 5.15a (9a+) route, and Natalia Grossman, the 2021 bouldering world champion.[5]
In 2018 she was inducted into the Boulder Sports Hall of fame.[6]
Personal life
Erbesfield married French rock climber Didier Raboutou in 1993, and their two children, Brooke Raboutou and Shawn Raboutou, are themselves, accomplished rock climbers.[3]
Rankings
Climbing World Cup[7]
| Discipline | 1989 | 1990 | 1991 | 1992 | 1993 | 1994 | 1995 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 3 | 4 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
Climbing World Championships[8]
| Discipline | 1991 | 1993 | 1995 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 3 | 2 | 1 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead[8]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1989 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 1990 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 1991 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 4 |
| 1992 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 1993 | 3 | 3 | 6 | |
| 1994 | 4 | 4 | ||
| 1995 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
| Total | 14 | 10 | 4 | 28 |
Notable Climbs
Redpointed
8c (5.14b):
8b+ (5.14a):
- Ixeia - Rodellar (ESP) - June 2012
- Tripa de Conejo - Rodellar (ESP) - June 2012
- God's Own Stone - Red River Gorge (USA) - April 1, 2012 - At age 48
- Bad Attitude - Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val (FRA) - August 27, 2008 - At age 45[10]
- Attention vos Regards - Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val (FRA) - 1993
- Silence Vertical - Troubat (FRA) - 1993 - World's third-ever female ascent of an 8b+ route.
On-sighted
8a+ (5.13c):
- Overdose - Lourmarin (FRA) - 1993 - World's first-ever female onsight of an 8a/+ route.
8a (5.13b):
- Ramponeau - Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val (FRA) - 1992
Bibliography
- Noble, Chris (November 2013). Women Who Dare: North America's Most Inspiring Women Climbers. Falcon Guides. ISBN 978-0762783717.
See also
References
- "Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou – pioneer and coach". The Circuit.
- Emma Murray (August 5, 2016). "Record-setting Raboutous". Boulder Weekly. Retrieved May 17, 2018.
- Johanna Flashman (January 20, 2018). "Robyn Esbesfield-Raboutou is coaching the next generation of crushers". Climbing. Retrieved January 5, 2022.
- Abbey Smith. "Our Members: How Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou Makes Kids into Elite Climbers". American Alpine Club.
- Osius, Alison (July 29, 2021). "How Team ABC Built Two Olympic Climbers Brooke Raboutou and Colin Duffy". GymClimber. Retrieved January 5, 2021.
- "Chris Weidner: Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou and the ABCs of strength, commitment". Daily Camera. May 2018.
- IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "Erbesfield's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- "Robyn Erbesfield sends her first 8c". UK climbing. July 20, 2012.
- "Erbesfield-Raboutou: 5.14a at Age 45". Climbing.com. June 15, 2012. Retrieved May 17, 2018.