Royal Arches Route

The Royal Arches Route is a big wall climbing route in California's Yosemite Valley on the Royal Arches wall. The route is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.[1] The route was first climbed Oct. 1936 by Ken Adam, Morgan Harris, K. Kenneth Davis.[2] The route is moderate in difficulty and is frequently climbed. The first 4 pitches are along a west-facing dihedral. At Pitch 5, the route turns north and ascends the main face along crack systems. Pitch 10 can be free climbed at 5.10b however, most climbers use a fixed rope to pendulum to a long ledge. At the end of Pitch 15, begins the bolted rappel route. It is 18 rappels to the Valley floor.[2] Some climbers prefer to continue to "The Jungle" at the end of Pitch 16. Beyond The Jungle is a 5.4 slab and 4th Class scrambling to the Valley Rim. The descent is usually accomplished by traversing northeast to Washington Column and descending the exposed North Dome Gully.

Royal Arches Route
LocationCalifornia, USA
Coordinates37.74840°N 119.569°W / 37.74840; -119.569
Climbing AreaYosemite Valley
Route TypeTraditional climbing, Big wall climbing
Vertical Gain1,400 feet (430 m)
Pitches16
Rating5.7 A0 or 5.10a (6a)
GradeII
First ascentOct. 1936. Ken Adam, Morgan Harris, K. Kenneth Davis

The Royal Arches route has long been a popular free solo, and the competition over the years has led to some astounding ascent times. Even as far back as 1979, the 15-pitch ascent was being done in under an hour.[3] However, many people find themselves spending the night on the route. There have been several accidents on the route and rappel route.[4][5]

Leading the 11th Pitch of Royal Arches, August 1984. This was shortly after the famed rotten log fell on the original route.[6]

References
  1. Roper, Steve; Steck, Allen (1979). Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. p. 231-235. ISBN 0-87156-292-8.
  2. Barth 1, Bedinghaus 2, Jakubowski 3, Sloan 4, Lucas 1, Cary 2, Marek 3, Erik 4 (2016). Rock Climbing Yosemite Valley 750 Best Free Routes. USA: Yosemite Bigwalls. p. 185. ISBN 978-1-4675-9692-3.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  3. bearbnz (Mar 11, 2004). "Royal Arches Overview". Summit Post. Retrieved August 24, 2017.
  4. "Fall on Wet Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inadequate Clothing and Equipment, Inexperience, Exposure, No Hard Hat, California, Yosemite Valley, Royal Arches". American Alpine Club. 2005. Retrieved August 24, 2017.
  5. "Stranded, Fatigue, Inadequate Water, Inexperience". American Alpine Club. 2012. Retrieved August 24, 2017.
  6. Engel, David (August 18, 1984). "11th Pitch, Royal Arches 1984".
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