Sachi Amma

Sachi Amma (born September 23, 1989) is a Japanese professional rock climber and sport climber. He won the IFSC Climbing World Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013.

Sachi Amma
Personal information
NationalityJapanese
Born (1989-09-23) September 23, 1989
Tochigi Prefecture, Japan
OccupationProfessional sport climber
Height172 cm (5 ft 8 in)
Weight53 kg (117 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberLead climbing
Highest grade
Known forWinning the World Cup in 2012 and 2013
Medal record
Men's sport climbing
Representing  Japan
World Championships
Bronze medal – third place2014 GijónLead
World Cup
Second place2009Combined
Third place2009Lead
Third place2010Combined
Third place2011Lead
Winner2012Lead
Third place2012Combined
Winner2013Lead
Third place2013Combined
Updated on October 31, 2017.

Biography

In 2006 he started competing at the World Cup, in the Lead climbing discipline, and won the Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013. In 2009, 2010 and 2012 he also competed, occasionally, in the Bouldering discipline, with less encouraging results.

He mainly climbs indoor, but he also proved to be one of the strongest rock climbers in the world, by redpointing three routes graded 9a+ (5.15a): Papichulo (Oliana), Pachamama (Oliana), and La Rambla (Siurana).

He has since redpointed one additional 9a+ (5.15a): Realization (Céüse)[1] and two routes graded 9b (5.15b): Soul Mate (Gozen Rock) and Fight or Flight (Oliana),[2] the former becoming Japan's hardest sport climb.[3]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup[4]
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Lead 35 18 12 5 3 5 3 1 1 7 30
Bouldering - - - - 50 79 - 21 26 - -
Combined - - - - 2 3 - 3 3 - -

Climbing World Championships[5]
2007 2009 2011 2012 2014
Lead 21 4 10 7 3

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[5]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2008112
2009213
201011
2011437
20122226
20133216
20142114
Total7121029

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

9b (5.15b):

  • Soul Mate – Gozen Rock (JAP) – March 2018 – First ascent. Described as Japan's hardest route and first 9b.[3]
  • Fight or Flight – Oliana (ESP) – February 2015 – First ascent by Chris Sharma.[2]

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

See also

References
  1. ZA, Climb (2014-12-02). "Sachi Amma sends 'Biographie/Realization' (9a+/5.15a) – Climb ZA – Rock Climbing & Bouldering in South Africa". Climb ZA. Retrieved 2022-11-18.
  2. "Sachi Amma climbs 9b at Oliana". planetmountain.com. February 2, 2015. Retrieved June 4, 2018.
  3. "Sachi Amma climbs Japan's first 9b". planetmountain.com. 15 January 2018. Archived from the original on June 4, 2018.
  4. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  5. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Amma's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  6. planetmountain.com, ed. (December 3, 2012). "Sachi Amma chiude La Rambla". Retrieved December 3, 2012.
  7. up-climbing.com, ed. (December 17, 2011). "Sachi Anma Pachamama 9a+". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  8. up-climbing.com, ed. (December 28, 2010). "Papichulo 9a+ per Sachi Amma". Archived from the original on September 18, 2012. Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  9. desnivel.com, ed. (April 16, 2013). "Sachi Amma y Ethan Pringle encadenan 'Era vella' 9a en Margalef". Retrieved June 10, 2013.
  10. Björn Pohl (26 August 2009). ukclimbing.com (ed.). "KinematiX by Sachi". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
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