Sangtu (Korean topknot)

Sangtu (Korean: 상투), was a topknot hairstyle worn by Joseon married men.[1][2]

Men wearing sangtu at the Lion mask dance of Bukcheong

The topknot is seen in the tomb murals of Goguryeo,[1] and is also seen on equestrian figures on pottery from Silla.[1] It is assumed that the topknot was common to the three Kingdoms.[1]

In 1278, by order of King Chungnyeol, officials wore a Mongolian-style pigtail tied at the back of the head, leaving only the hair on the top of the head. However, under King Gongmin, topknots were again worn, and during the Joseon Dynasty, the use of topknots can be seen in both portraits and genre paintings.[1]

To create a sangtu, the hair on the crown of the head was shaved and the remaining hair combed up. This was to dissipate heat because without shaving, the heat became unbearable.[1] There was discrimination between married people and unmarried people: thus even young children who got married were treated as adults with a topknot, and unmarried people, even if they were older, were treated with contempt.[1] People unable to be married (due to apoor family background or a physical defect) whether or not they were old, used to receive negative comments. To avoid this, men sometimes wore topknots to make it appear they were married.[1]

"No matter how old one is, without a top-knot he is never considered a man, addressed with high endings, or treated with respect. After assuming the top-knot, no matter how young, he is invested with the dignities and duties of a man of the family, takes his share in making the offerings and prayers at the ancestral shrines, and is recognized by his ancestors' spirits as one of the family who is to do them honor, and whom they are to protect and bless."[2]

Under the Eulmi reform of 1895, the Short Hair Ordinance was issued, banning topknots.[1] King Gojong's topknot was removed on December 30, 1895, two days before the reform came into effect.[2]

Before a small audience of Korean and Japanese officials, a Japanese barber (no Korean could be found willing to undertake such a distasteful act) removed the king's top-knot. Despite the audience having been warned that any outburst of protest would be dealt with severely (fatally), many began to weep and protest, but their efforts were in vain.[2]

It was a mechanism for emasculating Korean men.[2]

Seoul residents had their topknots forcibly shorn. However, outside the city gates, men kept theirs. This resulted in merchants and porters refusing to enter the city. With worsening weather, supplies of wood and rice dwindled and prices soared. Hence, after about two weeks a further edict was issued, proclaiming haircutting to be no longer compulsory ("rather than have the citizens freeze or starve"). This created problems for those who no longer had topknots, because they couldn't go beyond the city for fear of being attacked by the more rural population.[2]