Soubise sauce

Soubise sauce is an onion sauce thickened with béchamel sauce, pounded cooked rice,[1] or cream.[2] It is generally served with meats, game, poultry and vegetables. It was formerly often used to coat meat.[2] It is first documented in 1836.[3] It has many variations, the simplest including just onions, butter, and cream.

Soubise sauce
Preparation of veal Orloff. The veal is covered by a soubise-mushroom sauce.
TypeSauce
Main ingredientsButter, onions

History

The sauce is said to take its name from Charles de Rohan, Prince de Soubise.[4][5] Auguste Escoffier's recipe adds a thickened béchamel to butter-stewed onions. For a variant with rice and bacon fat, Escoffier cooks a high-starch rice (such as Carolina rice) with fatty bacon, onions and white consommé, then purées the onions and rice before finishing with the usual butter and cream. Tomato purée seasoned with paprika or curry can be added to either variation, but Escoffier notes that béchamel is preferred to rice for its smoother consistency.[6]

The 19th-century Anglo-Italian cook Charles Elmé Francatelli serves the sauce over boiled pheasant with potato croquettes.[7]

Eliza Acton, who said soubise was "the finest kind of onion sauce", serves it with lamb, suggesting any rich gravy or brown cucumber sauce as a substitute. It is among the sauces she recommends to be served with Veal Fricandeau. Her recipe for English soubise replaces the béchamel with rich veal gravy finished with cream.

References
  1. Escoffier, Auguste (1846-1935) Auteur du texte (1912). Le guide culinaire : aide-mémoire de cuisine pratique (3e édition) / par A. Escoffier ; avec la collaboration de MM. Philéas Gilbert et Émile Fétu.
  2. James Peterson, Sauces: Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making, 4th ed., 2017, ISBN 9780544819825, p. 520
  3. "Soubise Sauce" no. 39, in I. Roberts, The Young Cook's Guide, London, 1836, p. 27
  4. Victoria Magazine - Volume 20 - Page 270
  5. Soubise, "...Lequel s'entendait mieux en cuisine qu'à la guerre et se fit battre à Rossbach, mais laissa son nom à la sauce Soubise." Ribaut "Grimot de La Reynière, roi des gourmets: L'"Almanach des gourmands", écrit au XIXe siècle, vient d'être édité dans sa version intégrale": in Le Monde, 20 December 2012.
  6. Escoffier, Auguste (16 April 2013). A Guide to Modern Cookery - Part I. ISBN 9781446545973.
  7. Francatelli, Charles Elmé (1862). The Cook's Guide, and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant: A Practical Treatise on English and Foreign Cookery in All Its Branches.
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