Scottish jewellery

The kilt pin is a functional object that weighs down the edge of the apron of a kilt to keep it in place during movement.[3]

The ring and pin style penannular brooch, also known as the Celtic or Viking brooch, had the original purpose of being a fastener for clothing. Also native to Ireland, its design was meant to mirror that of the torc. The first examples of this style of brooch date from circa 700CE.[4] These items were first produced for the elite class out of precious metals, and over time the more simple item of the thistle brooch emerged from this tradition.

Examples of Luckenbooth brooches with varying decorative styles

The thistle brooch is a simpler version of the penannular brooch, with less surface decoration, which gained popularity around 1100. The thistle is the national flower of Scotland and acts as an emblem. Today, thistle brooches are often made of silver and contain a thistle motif, and are not necessarily a penannular brooch.

The Luckenbooth brooch is a style of brooch that originated on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh. It is a kind of annular brooch that is heart shaped. It often comes in the form of two hearts woven together, with more ornate brooches also containing a crown pattern. The name Luckenbooth comes from the locked booths along the royal mile that had a similar pattern. This style first gained popularity in the 17th century, and had a revival in the 19th century in the form of pebble jewellery. They were traditionally given as a token of love or as an engagement present.[5]

A set of 16th Century Scottish pebble jewels, made of agate, gold and enamel

Pebble jewellery, featuring the stones agate or "Scotch Pebbles", Cairngorm, jasper, jaspagate, and sometimes bloodstone, freshwater pearls, gold, silver and granite, is a style of jewellery that has a long history associated with Scotland.[6] Queen Victoria helped make the style become fashionable and she collected cairngorm stones on her walks on Beinn a' Bhùird near Balmoral Castle.[7] Pebble jewellery refers to a style rather than a specific item, with many examples of pebble brooches and bracelets, though other items such as pendants have also been known to be decorated in this style.

The most common forms of metal in Scottish jewellery are silver, enamel, gold and pewter.[9][10] These are often the backing to a stone setting in the case of rings and brooches, but can also provide decoration through casting and other decorative methods. Gold can be found in Scotland around the areas of Lowther Hills, Wanlockhead, and Leadhills. The first documentation of gold in the area is from the 16th century, and this gold was made into the Scottish Crown and supported a community of goldsmiths around the country who are still active today.[11] There was even a short-lived gold rush in the 1860s. Silver was also actively mined in Scotland, with over five individual sites that, over time, have had silver extracted from them. There was a silver mine at Hilderston near Bathgate in 1608.[12]

Stones such as agate, cairngorm citrine, jasper, malachite and granite were mined in the hills of Scotland and were popular in jewellery. Agate was made popular in Scottish jewellery styles in the 19th century, popularised by Queen Victoria.[13] These stones are often found on bracelets, pendants and brooches.

Sapphires, although rare in Scotland, can be mined from the Isle of Harris.[14]

Pearls are often used in jewellery in Scotland.[15] They were added to the Scottish Crown in the 16th century, and embroidered on the costumes of Mary, Queen of Scots and Anne of Denmark. They come from a pearl-bearing mussel, M. margaritifera, half the population of which are native to Scotland.[16] A daughter of Thomas Thomson, an apothecary to the Queen of Scots, wore a head dress set with 73 Scottish pearls all of equal size.[17]

The Privy Council of Scotland regulated the collection of pearls in Scottish waters. In 1622 the pearl trade was investigated. A few pearls had been sold without licence in Aberdeen. Pearls were found in the Forth, the Cart near Paisley, and in some of the Galloway rivers.[18] In 1620 Thomas Menzies of Durn and Cults, Provost of Aberdeen, gave James VI and I a valuable pearl found in the Kellie burn, a tributary of the River Ythan.[19] The pearl is said to have been set in the royal crown.[20]

The Stewart Jewels are items of jewellery that originate from the Stewart dynasty who ruled Scotland for generations and went on to rule England after the death of Elizabeth I. The set consists of three items, all of which are on display with the Honours at Edinburgh Castle: the St. Andrew Jewel, a collar of the Order of the Garter, and a ring with a ruby set into it.[38]

The Lorne Jewels, part of the Secondary Honours of Scotland, were gifted to the nation in the 1930s by Princess Louise, Duchess of Argyle. The jewels consist of a single necklace with a pendant and a locket that was made in London in the 1870s and was a gift from the 9th Duke of Argyll to his soon-to-be wife. It consists of a chain made of diamonds studded with pearls, the pendant has a pearl set in the centre which is surrounded by two rows of diamonds of different shapes. The locket hangs from the bottom of the pendant and is attached by 2 emeralds shaped into the likeness of bog myrtle. The locket itself is shaped like a pear and is encrusted with diamonds, with extra decoration in sapphires depicting the motto of the House of Lorne and the Galley of Lorne. This piece is also on display at Edinburgh Castle.[39]

Matthew and John Auchlek worked for James IV and Margaret Tudor. They were recorded making chains and necklaces. They gilded the sceptre, the king's spurs and the buckles of the queen's bridle and horse harness. Matthew Auchlek gilded a reliquary of Saint Duthac.[40]

The two Mossman men, John and his son James, were goldsmiths who worked in Edinburgh in the 16th century. Both served as court jewellers to the Stewart family during their Scottish rule. They are also known for owning the John Knox House in Edinburgh.[41] The identities of the two men are often confused, with some sources being unclear on who is the father and who is the son. John Mossman was an Edinburgh-based goldsmith who is most famous for remodelling the Scottish crown in 1540.[42] He made a reliquary for a bone of St Adrian of May for James V from Scottish gold.[43]

James Mossman was the son of John Mossman. He and James Cockie were made free men of the Edinburgh incorporation of goldsmiths on 1 May 1557.[44] He was the court jeweller for Mary of Guise, and reportedly produced pieces for both her and the royal family.[45] Mossman was executed for his loyalty to Mary, Queen of Scots during the siege of Edinburgh Castle in 1573. He pledged Mary's jewels for loans and set up a mint for silver coins in the castle.[46] He was hanged on 3 August 1573.

Thomas Foulis was a goldsmith who made silver plate for James VI and others. He was an apprentice of Michael Gilbert and became an important financier of the crown.[47]

Anne of Denmark employed Jacob Kroger as her personal jeweller for four years, until he ran away to England with a stable hand and a bag of her jewels.[48]

George Heriot (died 1610) was an important member of the Edinburgh Goldsmith's incorporation. His son George Heriot (1563-1624) is known for supplying jewels to Anne of Denmark, at least two pieces survive. He founded a school in Edinburgh.[49]

Although Charles Rennie Mackintosh was not a jeweller himself, he made a significant contribution to influencing the style of jewellery through his work as a designer. Today, "Charles Rennie Mackintosh" jewellery is sold that are pieces made to replicate decorative work he did on furniture, buildings, and light fixtures.[50]