Sonia Rykiel

Knitted ensemble by Sonia Rykiel, Spring-Summer 1986

In 1962, unable to find something to wear during her pregnancy, Rykiel used an Italian clothing supplier to design and create a dress and a sweater, which incorporated high cut arm holes and a shrunken fit to cling to the body.[6] The practical and modern style led to orders from her friends and became known as the Poor Boy Sweater.[6] Rykiel started selling the sweaters from her husband's store and the Poor Boy Sweater made the cover of French Elle magazine, bringing Rykiel fame. Actress Audrey Hepburn bought 14 sweaters in every colour.[7] Rykiel's husband helped her to create the Sonia Rykiel Company in 1965.[9] In 1968, Rykiel opened her first boutique store on the Left Bank.[10]

Rykiel invented various fashion techniques. She was the first designer to put seams on the outside of a garment, leave hems unfinished and use slogans on her sweaters.[6][11] She has also been credited with popularisation of wearing black.[11] In 1972, Rykiel was dubbed "Queen of Knits" by Women's Wear Daily.[7] She was also known as "Coco Rykiel", a comparison to Coco Chanel.[12] In 1977, she became the first designer to create a line of clothes for mail order firm 3 Suisses.[13] The following year, she launched her first fragrance called Septième sens (Seventh Sense).[5] Rykiel contributed to the interior decoration for the Hôtel de Crillon and the Hôtel Lutetia.[14][15]

Rykiel designed and created the costumes for the French musical comedy Les Dix Commandements.[16] Nathalie Rykiel was appointed president of Sonia Rykiel in 2007.[5] In October 2008, at a fashion show celebrating the brand's 40th anniversary, tributes were paid to Rykiel. Thirty fashion designers, including Ralph Lauren, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Giorgio Armani, showcased their visions of the "Rykiel woman".[13] The brand and its designs were also the subject of an exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris from 20 November 2008 to 20 April 2009. The Sonia Rykiel Exhibition was curated by Olivier Saillard.[17] In December 2009, Rykiel and H&M introduced "Sonia Rykiel pour H&M", two masstige operations with the Swedish retailer.[18] An event was held at the Grand Palais in Paris to celebrate the collection.

In January 2012 the Sonia Rykiel Company became majority-owned by the Hong Kong-based First Heritage Brands, part of the investment company Fung Brands. Fung Brands acquired 80 percent of Sonia Rykiel, with the Rykiel family retaining a 20 percent stake.[13][19] That same year, Canadian designer Geraldo da Conceicao succeeded April Crichton as the artistic director of Rykiel.[20] Julie de Libran took over the role during the following year.[21]

In 2019, after years of mismanagement by First Heritage Brands,[22] the Sonia Rykiel brand liquidated its operations, after a Paris commercial court judge rejected Lévy, the only remaining bidder for the company.[23]

Rykiel was also a writer. She wrote several books about fashion, a collection of children's stories, magazine columns and an epistolary novel with Régine Deforges.[4] Her first book Et Je La Voudrais Nue (I Would Like Her Naked) was published in 1979.[12] In 2012, she co-authored N'oubliez pas que je joue (Don't forget it's a game) with journalist Judith Perrignon.[24]

Rykiel collaborated with impresario and performer Malcolm McLaren on the song "Who the Hell is Sonia Rykiel?" on McLaren's 1995 album Paris.[25]

Rykiel makes a cameo appearance in Robert Altman's 1994 film Prêt-à-Porter. Altman was inspired to make the film after attending one of Rykiel's ready-to-wear fashion shows.[11] The lead character, played by actress Anouk Aimée, was based on the designer.[11] Rykiel appears as Hortense in the 1998 French comedy film Riches, belles, etc..[26]