Ulrich Almer

Ulrich Almer was a Swiss mountain guide, born on 8 May 1849 in Grindelwald where he died on 4 September 1940. He made many premieres in the Alps, at the beginning with his father Christian Almer, one of the great guides of the golden age of mountaineering, and was one of the first Swiss guides to visit the Caucasus.[1]

Christian Almer, Ulrich Almer, Meta Brevoort and William Coolidge in 1874.

Biography

Ulrich Almer performs about fifteen premieres including those of the Aiguille de Blaitière and Aiguille de Triolet. In 1874, on the descent after an attempt at the south face of Mont Blanc, his roped party fell into a crevasse on the Brouillard glacier, JAG Marshal and Johann Fischer dying instantly; Ulrich Almer, unconscious but unharmed, manages to get out of the crevasse and join Courmayeur.[2][3] To make matters worse, thirty-eight years later, in 1912, during a descent of the Aletschhorn, it was the turn of Andreas Fisher, Johann Fischer's son, and with the same guide, to be the victim of a fall in a crevasse. Ulrich Almer's reputation was definitely tarnished.[4]

Ascents
  • 1870 - Premiere of Ailefroide with William Auguste Coolidge with Christian Almer and Ch. Gertsch, on July 7 [5]
  • 1873 - Premiere of the northern tip of the Aiguille de Blaitière with Thomas Stuart Kennedy, J. A. G. Marshall and Johann Fisher
  • 1874 - Premiere of the aiguille de Triolet with J. A. G. Marshall and Johann Fisher, on August 26
  • 1874 - Attempt on the south face of Mont Blanc with J. G. A. Marshal and Johann Fisher, on August 31. They had probably made in passing the first point of the point which will be called later pic Eccles[6]
  • 1875 - Premiere of the roche de la Muzelle with W. A. Coolidge and Christian Almer, on July 2 [7]
  • 1876 - Premiere of the western summit of Droites, with W.A. Coolidge and Christian Almer, on July 18
  • 1876 - First of the south-eastern ridge of Täschhorn with James Jackson
  • 1877 - Pic Coolidge with William Auguste Coolidge and Christian Almer, on July 14
  • 1891 - First crossing of Meije in a west–east direction from the Grand Pic to the Doigt de Dieu with J.-H. Gibson and Fritz Boss
  • 1883 - First ascent of the northwest ridge of the Schreckhorn via Andersongrat route[8] with Aloys Pollinger, John Stafford Anderson and G. P. Baker
  • 1884 - First crossing of the Breithorn with John Stafford Anderson and Aloys Pollinger, on August 16, making in passing the first of the secondary summits of the Eastern Breithorn, the Breithornzwillinge and the Roccia Nera, considered today in the list of 82 Alpine summits over 4000 meters) [9]
  • 1888 - First ascent of the northern summit of Ushba (Caucasus) with John Garford Cockin
  • 1888 - First ascent of Shkhara with J. Cockin and C. Roth

References
  1. C. Egger, Pioniere der Alpen , 1946, 248-256
  2. Charles Henri Durier and Joseph Vallot, Le Mont-Blanc , reed. The Fountain of Siloam, 2000, p. 363
  3. Charles Gos Alpine tragedies Les Éditions de France, 1940 Chapter IX The moonlit glacier, pp. 115-128
  4. R. Rubi, Vom Bergbauerndorf zum Fremdenort , 1986, 196-197
  5. François Labande Guide du Haut-Dauphiné. Massif des Ecrins Éditions de l'Envol, 1996 vol. 2
  6. Richard Goedeke 4000 des Alpes. All the normal routes of the 4000-meter peaks. LIBRIS 2007p.205
  7. François Labande Guide du Haut-Dauphiné. Massif des Ecrins Editions of the flight. 1998 vol 3
  8. (in German) Bächli-Tourentipp
  9. Maurice Brandt, Guide des Alpes Valaisannes Vol.4, from Theodulpass to Monte Moro , Swiss Alpine Club (CAS)
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