Jeju Island

1894 map of Quelpaërt or Tchæ-Tchiou

Historically, the island has been called by many different names including:

• Doi (Hangul: 도이, hanja: 島夷, literally "Island barbarian")
• Dongyeongju (Hangul: 동영주; hanja: 東瀛州)
• Juho (Hangul: 주호, hanja: 州胡)
• Tammora (탐모라, 耽牟羅)
• Seomna (섭라, 涉羅)
• Tangna (탁라, 乇羅)
• Tamna (탐라, 耽羅)
• Quelpart,[6][7][8] Quelparte[9] or Quelpaert Island[10]
• Junweonhado (준원하도, 준원下島 meaning "southern part of peninsula")
• Taekseungnido (Hangul: 택승리도, meaning "the peaceful hot island in Joseon")
• Samdado (Hangul: 삼다도, meaning "Island of Three Abundances")[11]

Before the Japanese annexation in 1910, the island was usually known as Quelpart (Quelpaërt, Quelpaert) to Europeans;[12] during the occupation it was known by the Japanese name Saishū. The name Quelpart coming from French language is attested in Dutch no later than 1648 and may have denoted the first Dutch ship to spot the island, the quelpaert de Brack around 1642, or rather some visual similarity of the island from some angle to this class of ships (a small dispatch vessel, also called a galiot).

The first European explorers to sight the island, the Portuguese, called it Ilha de Ladrones (Island of Thieves).[13]

The name "Fungma island" appeared in the "Atlas of China" of M. Martini who arrived in China as a missionary in 1655.[14]

The script in the official Jeju logo is colored black, to evoke the basalt of the island, indicating that Jeju's traditions should be preserved and developed. The green symbolizes the natural environment of Mt. Halla and Jeju, blue symbolizes the sea of Jeju, and orange symbolizes the hopeful future and value of Jeju Special Self-Governing Province.[15]

Logo of Jeju Province

The earliest known Polity on the island was the kingdom of Tamna.[16]

After Mongol invasions of Korea, the Mongol Empire established a base on Jeju Island with its ally, the Goryeo army in (Tamna prefectures) and converted part of the island to a grazing area for the Korean and Mongol cavalry stationed there.[17]

In the beginning of the 15th century, Jeju Island was subjected to the highly centralized rule of the Joseon dynasty. A travel ban was implemented for almost 200 years and many uprisings by Jeju Island residents were suppressed.[18]

Jeju uprising

Suspected communist sympathizers awaiting execution in May 1948 after the Jeju uprising

From 3 April 1948 to May 1949, the South Korean government conducted an anticommunist campaign to suppress an attempted uprising on the island.[19][20] The main cause for the rebellion was the election scheduled for 10 May 1948, designed by the United Nations Temporary Commission on Korea (UNTCOK) to create a new government for all of Korea. The elections were only planned for the south of the country, the half of the peninsula under UNTCOK control. Fearing that the elections would further reinforce division, guerrilla fighters of the Workers' Party of South Korea (WPSK) reacted violently, attacking local police and rightist youth groups stationed on Jeju Island.[20][21]

In 2008, bodies of victims of a massacre were discovered in a mass grave near Jeju International Airport.[22]

• 
  Baengnokdam in Hallasan
• 
  Mountains in Jeju
• 
  Halla Mountain in Jeju
• 
  Map including Jeju Island

Detailed map of Jeju Island

Jeju is a volcanic island, dominated by Hallasan: a volcano 1,950 metres (6,400 ft) high and the highest mountain in South Korea. The island measures approximately 73 kilometres (45 mi) across, east to west, and 41 kilometres (25 mi) from north to south.[33]

The island formed by volcanic eruptions approximately two million years ago, during the Pleistocene epoch.[34] The island consists chiefly of basalt and lava.

An area covering about 12% (224 square kilometres or 86 square miles) of Jejudo is known as Gotjawal Forest.[35] This area remained uncultivated until the 21st century, as its base of 'a'a lava made it difficult to develop for agriculture. Because this forest remained pristine for so long, it has a unique ecology.[36]

The forest is the main source of groundwater and thus the main water source for the half million people of the island, because rainwater penetrates directly into the aquifer through the cracks of the 'a'a lava under the forest. Gotjawal forest is considered an internationally important wetland under the Ramsar Convention by some researchers[37] because it is the habitat of unique species of plants and is the main source of water for the residents, although to date it has not been declared a Ramsar site.[38]

Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliff

Tourism is an important component of the local economy. The island is sometimes called "South Korea’s Hawaii". Tourists from China do not require a visa to visit Jeju, unlike the rest of South Korea, and in the 2010s have started visiting on specialised package tours to acquire a South Korean driver's license; the test is similar to that in China, but can be completed in less time and is easier, application and test forms are available in many languages, and a South Korean license, unlike a Chinese license, makes the holder eligible for an International Drivers License.[45]

Tourism

Tourists in Jeju

In 1962, the South Korean government established the Korean National Tourism Corporation (KNTC) to monitor and regulate internal and external tourism, and it was later renamed the Korean National Tourism Organization (KNTO).[46] While Korea lacks abundant natural resources, tourism is an entity that generates income nationwide for South Korea. In Jeju-do province, specifically, tourism has proven to be beneficial and has been a growing contributor to the economy.[4] Jeju Island, often compared to Hawaii, “is the winter destination for Asian tourist seeking warm weather and beautiful beaches.”[47]

The island is home to 660,000 people, but hosts 15,000,000 visitors per year.[48] English is not widely spoken in Jeju, and as a matter of fact, “the local dialect is different enough from Korean that it is recognized as a distinct language.”[49] “Until recently, Chinese travelers accounted for 80% of foreign travelers;”[49] however, due to the installation of THAAD (The Terminal High Altitude Area Defense) system in Korea, Chinese travel has dwindled drastically. “THAAD is supposed to shield against North Korean missiles”[50] however China views it as a security threat. Though in the past year [2017] tourism has declined sharply, visits to Jeju continue to be a vacation destination for Asia. There are no visa requirements for visitors staying up to 90 days[4] and future plans to build a second international airport have been discussed. Due to the decline of visitors caused by China's travel ban to Korea due to the concern of THAAD, talks and discussions continue to be held regarding a second airport to service over 45 million people with an anticipated completion by 2035.[49] The current Jeju International Airport is crowded, as it services “30 million, which is 4 million more than it was designed to handle.”[51] The current desire of the existing Jeju International Airport includes wanting to add more direct flights, nonstop to major cities including Tokyo, Osaka, Beijing, Shanghai, and Taipei.[4]

Beach on Jeju

While the economy booms with foreign travel, residents suffer negative repercussions of Jeju tourism. “Most commercial facilities are owned by foreigners and major companies.”[49] In addition to increasing tourism, issues such as beach pollution, traffic, and overconsumption of underground water present a problem.[49]

Jeju has three UNESCO World Heritage sites, and is “packed with museums and theme parks and also has horses, mountains, lava tube caves, and waterfalls with clear blue ocean lapping its beaches.”[4] The Haenyeo (Jeju female divers) harvest oysters, abalone, clams, seaweed and other marine life, and their history is showcased at the island's Haenyeo museum.[49]

Due to extensive tourism, the pollution of beaches has become a serious problem. The local government of Jeju aspires to be carbon-free by 2030.[49] “Nearly half of all-electric cars in South Korea are registered in Jeju”.[49]

In addition to the aspirations of an additional airport and the expansion of tourism on the island, Jeju is home to a small technological hub. In 2005, the Jeju Science Park was created, a complex for technology companies and organizations. Since its implementation, it has attracted 117 IT and biotech companies and is home to the Daum Kakao Corporation headquarters.[52]

One of the most popular surfing spots in Korea, Jeju Island is also the birthplace of Korean surfing. Some famous beaches are Weoljung Beach and Jungmun Beach. The latter is home to the first surfing club in Korea, established in 1995.[53]

There are small islands near Jeju Island that visitors can visit by boat; the most famous of these are Udo, Gapado, and Marado. Udo is famous for its peanut ice cream and boat tours.[54]

Jeju became more well known outside Korea after two characters in the 2021 Netflix original series Squid Game mentioned it.[55] It was also the location for two episodes of the 2022 Netflix original series Extraordinary Attorney Woo, entitled "The Blue Night of Jeju I and II".

• North London Collegiate School Jeju is an independent British boarding school in Seogwipo for boys and girls from 4 to 19.
• Korean International School Jeju is an independent boarding school for boys and girls K–12.
• Branksome Hall Asia is an all-girls independent educational institution located in Seogwipo.
• St. Johnsbury Academy JeJu, a newly opened boarding and day school for boys and girls K–12 offering an American education based system, is located in Seogwipo.
• Jeju National University, a public university
• Jeju International University, a private university
• Cheju Halla University, a private college
• Jeju Tourism University, a private college
• Korea Polytechnics, a public post-secondary vocational school; the Jeju Campus is located in Jeju City.

Seongsan Ilchulbong or "Sunrise Peak"

• Love Land (South Korea), an outdoor sculpture park focused on a theme of sex
• Manjanggul Lava Tube, 8 km (5 mile) long with a 1 km (1000 yard) publicly accessible portion
• Seongsan Ilchulbong or "Sunrise Peak," a volcanic tuff cone and crater
• Mount Hallasan, the island's central dominant peak
• Mount Songaksan, a shore cliff and a low, flat grassland make a beautiful and easy walking trail
• Seongeup Folk Village
• Jeju Teddy's Bear Museum
• Figure Museum Jeju
• Jeju Maze Park
• Mysterious Road
• Water Falls (Jeongbang. Cheonjiyeon. Cheonjeyeon)
• O'Sulloc Tea Museum
• Beach (Jungmun. Hyeopjae)
• Ecoland Train Trip Theme Parks
• Natural Recreation Forest Jeolmul
• Jonjaamji, Korean Buddhist pagoda

The island's power grid is connected to mainland plants by the HVDC Haenam–Cheju, and electricity is also provided by generators located on the island. As of 2001, there were four power plants on Jeju, with more under planning and construction. The most notable of these are the gas-fired generators of Jeju Thermal Power Plant, located in Jeju City. The present-day generators of this plant were constructed from 1982 onwards, replacing earlier structures that dated from 1968.[56] As elsewhere in Korea, the power supply is overseen by the Korea Electric Power Corporation, or KEPCO.

In February 2012, the governor of the state of Hawaii (USA), Neil Abercrombie, and the director of the Electricity Market and Smart Grid Division at the Korea Ministry of Knowledge Economy, Choi Kyu-Chong, signed a letter of intent to share information about Smart Grid technology. The Jeju Smart Grid was initially installed in 6,000 homes in Gujwa-eup and is being expanded. South Korea is using the pilot program of the Smart Grid on Jejudo as the testing ground in order to implement a nationwide Smart Grid by 2030.[57]

The island is served by Jeju International Airport in Jeju City. The Seoul – Jeju City air route is by a significant margin the world's busiest, with around 13,400,000 passengers flown between the two cities in 2017.[58] Other cities that have flights to Jeju are Daegu, Busan, Gunsan and Gwangju.

Jeju is also accessible from Busan by ferry.[59] The travel time is between 3 and 12 hours.

The island has a public bus system, but there are no railways on the island.[60] A rail tunnel to the island, linking it to the Korea Train Express network has been proposed but is currently on hold due to cost concerns and local opposition in Jeju, who are aware of an eventual loss of their indigenous traits.[61]

In 1993 the Republic of Korea (ROK) began planning a naval base on Jeju Island. Construction started in Gangjeong village in 2007, with planned completion by 2011.[62] The base was designed to be a mixed military-commercial port similar to those in Sydney and Hawaii, that could accommodate 20 warships and three submarines, as well as two civilian cruise ships displacing up to 150,000 tons. Its official name is the Jeju Civilian-Military Complex Port. Jeju residents, environmentalists, and opposition parties opposed the construction[63] claiming that environmental hazards will damage the "Island of Peace" designated as such by the government.[64] The protests caused delays in the construction. The base was completed in 2016.[65]

In 2002, scarlet fever was reported to be in Korean children in Jeju Province.[66] Scientists have been doing research on the matter by creating an age-period-cohort (APC) analysis to back up their relevant hypotheses regarding this emerging outbreak. The Korean National Health Insurance Service analyzed this data from the nationwide insurance claims. Their calculations of the crude incidence rate (CIR) and applying the intrinsic estimator (IE) for age and calendar groups revealed that a total of 2,345 cases of children had the fever that was one of the top illnesses. It also led to the discovery that children aged 0–2 were the most common victims of the fever and that it was mostly boys rather than girls that carried it. The CIR decreased with age between 2002 and 2016 and the age period effect decreased in all observed years. The IE coefficients validating a cohort effect went from negative to positive in 2009. To this day, no one can explain how these children in Jeju Province had scarlet fever, but results suggest that it might be explained through the cohort effect. Further descriptive epidemiological studies are needed to test children that are born after 2009, to determine whether they have the fever or not.

Studies show that Jeju Province is recorded as the region showing the highest incidence of severe fever with thrombocytopenia syndrome (SFTS) in South Korea.[67] Just like the scarlet fever, the goal of this study was to determine the epidemiological and clinical characteristics of SFTS patients in Jeju Province. The data that was collected on this situation were obtained by the Integrated Diseases and Health Control System of the Korea Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (KCDCIS). 55 residents of Jeju were selected to test the criteria at KCDCIS and confirm the cases of SFTS with a residence listed in Jeju Province at the time of diagnosis, between July 16, 2014, and November 30, 2018. Results show that of the 55 confirmed cases of SFTS, the case fatality rate was 10.9% (95% confidence interval [CI], 4.1 to 22.2). The most common symptoms of the SFTS were severe fever, myalgia, and diarrhea. There have been fatality rates of 83.6% (95% Cl, 71.2 to 92.2), 45.5% (95% Cl, 32.0 to 59.5), and 40.0% (95% CI, 27.0 to 54.1). This particular study from 2014 to 2018, has been proven to have a lower case fatality rate and a lower incidence of severe fever, myalgia, and confusion than that of the cases nationwide of 2013–2015.

• Alddreu Airfield
• Jeju black cattle, indigenous cattle breed
• Jeju horse, indigenous horse breed
• Jeju language
• Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes

Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Jeju.

• Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes World Heritage site on Google Arts and Culture
• Geographic data related to Jeju Island at OpenStreetMap