Lovebird

Determining the sex of a lovebird is difficult. At maturity of one year, it may show signs of whether it is male or female, such as ripping up paper and stuffing it into its feathers (female behaviour) or regurgitating for its owners (male behaviour: the male feeds the nesting female). This behaviour is not a reliable indicator, however. The only sure method is DNA testing; however, some experts can sex lovebirds by feeling beneath the body. There are two sharp points beneath the cloaca known as the pelvic bone. If the points are nearer together, the bird is male; if the points are further away, it is female (females must have a larger pelvis to lay eggs).[14]

A yellow-collared lovebird perching by the entrance to a nest box in a large aviary at the Honolulu Zoo, Hawaii, USA

Lovebirds require an appropriately sized cage or aviary. Minimum recommended space per bird is 1 m×1 m×1 m. Lovebird's beaks are made of keratin, which grows continuously. Chewing and destroying wood toys and perches helps to keep beaks trim. Cuttlebones help provide beak-trimming and a source of calcium and other necessary minerals. Natural perches and special rough surfaced perches of varying diameters placed at different levels in the cage will allow greater climbing mobility and gives them a choice to select the most comfortable spot to roost.[15] They also require plenty of toys, such as willow branches, swings, tunnels, boxes and safe things to chew on and play with.

Lack of toys, keeping the birdcage covered too many hours, and lack of companionship or social stimulation may lead to boredom, stress and psychological or behavioral problems (nervousness, aggression, feather-plucking, screaming, depression, immunosuppression). Lovebirds are social birds and will enjoy several hours of interaction a day. Without this interaction, daily exercise, a roomy cage/aviary, and many toys to play with, they may resort to feather-plucking or screaming, and both behaviors can be difficult to cure. If the owner leaves the house, they should leave a radio or TV set playing to provide sound for the bird.[16] Lovebirds are intelligent, and if a relationship is to form they need a human who will dedicate much time to them. Lovebirds enjoy baths and like to sun themselves daily.

As with pet parrots in general, the tips of lovebirds' toenails should wear down adequately by the parrot climbing over rough surfaced perches. If the parrot has an inactive lifestyle the toenails may grow long and need to be trimmed.[17] Only the very tips of the toenails are trimmed. If too much of a toenail is trimmed away, it will be painful and bleed from the blood vessels in the centre of the nail.[17][18] This bleeding should be stopped as soon as possible with the use of styptic gel or powder. Sharp pointed toenails can be blunted by simply filing the point.[18] These procedures are usually done with the help of an assistant carefully holding the parrot wrapped in a towel.[17][18]

A fresh mix (with or without dehydrated fruits and/or vegetables) of excellent quality combining various seeds, grains and nuts generally represent the typical basic diet. Ideally the basic mix will contain or will be supplemented with an about 30% portion of any bio/organic (naturally coloured and flavoured and without any conservative agent) and/or of any natural (naturally coloured, flavoured and preserved) pellets.

Ideal basic dry mix:

Home made:

• 40% Yellow millet
• 18% Canary seed
• 10% White millet
• 9% Peeled oats
• 5% Japanese millet
• 4% Safflower
• 4% Buckwheat
• 3% Paddy rice
• 3% Oats
• 2% Linseed
• 2% Hempseed

Or else a blend of commercial mixes:

One-half typical basic dry mix for cockatiel parakeets and/or small parrot/parakeet species (i.e. kākāriki parakeets, monk parakeet, Australian grass parakeets, magnifiscent parakeets, Pyrrhura conures, small Afro-Asian ringnecked parakeets).

One-half typical basic dry mix for budgerigar parakeets and other miniature parrot/parakeet species (i.e. parrotlets, lineolated parrot, Bourke's parakeet, grass parakeets).

Cooked and fresh foods:

These foods and goods must be offered as often as possible (particularly cereals, fruits, greens/weeds, legumes/pulses and vegetables), ideally on a daily basis or at least weekly. The pellet ratio should be increased to 1/2 of the basic dry mix when cooked and/or fresh foods are occasionally or rarely offered.

Whole grains and cereals:

Amaranth, barley, couscous, flax, oat, rice varieties such as basmati, brown rice, jasmine rice, quinoa, wheat, lightly toasted whole-grain Waffles, non-toasted whole grain breads (i.e. corn-bread, multi-cereal, 14 cereals, whole-wheat), al dente cooked pastas.

Edible blossoms and flowers:

carnations, chamomille, chives, dandelion, day lilies, eucalyptus, fruit trees' blossoms, herbs' blossoms, hibiscus, honeysuckle, impatiens, lilac, nasturiums, pansies, passion flower (passifloræ), rosees, sunflowers, tulips, violets.

Fruits with all discarded pits and/or seeds of all apple/pear varieties (seeds of other fruits such as citruses, grapes & melons are healthy) :

All are healthy and can be offered i.e. all apple varieties, banana, all berries varieties, all citrus varieties, grapes, kiwi, mango, melons, nectarine, papaya, peach, all pear varieties, plum, starfruit.

Vegetables:

All are healthy and can be offered including squashes and their freshly harvested and/or oven-roasted seeds. i.e. beet, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, cucumber, all cabbage varieties, fresh beans, fresh peas, parsnip, all pepper varieties, all squash varieties, sweet potatoes, turnip, yams, zucchini.

Because of their acidity, most veterinarians suggest not to offer fresh tomatoes to parrots, as they could potentially cause ulcers. Onions and garlic should also be avoided because the chemical compounds they contain may cause anemia. Celery is not bad in itself but the stringy part should be removed before feeding the vegetable to parrots.

• Mushrooms must all be avoided due to their very high oxalic acid contents.*

Legumes or pulses:

All are healthy and can be offered. i.e. almonds, beans, lentils, peas, nuts and tofu.

Commercial greens and weeds:

Mainly:

Bok choy, broccoli and/or cauliflower leaves, cabbage leaves, chickory, collard greens, dandelion leaves, endives, escarole, kelp, mustard leaves, seaweeds, spirulina, water cress.

Only occasionally and sporadically:

Amaranth leaves, beet leaves, starfruit, chards, parsley, spinach & turnip leaves. All of these feature high oxalic acid contents that induces production of calcium oxalates (crystals/stones) by binding calcium & other trace minerals present in foods & goods with which they are ingested. Possibly leading to calcium deficiencies &/or hypocalcemia in minor cases. Liver and/or other internal organs' damage or failure in more severe cases.

Wild harvested greens and weeds:

Bromus, chick weeds, cock's foot or dactylis (orchard grasses), dandelions, erythronium (dogstooth), elymus, fescues, Ammophila (Poaceae) (marran grasses), milk thistles, oats and wild oats, plantain (the weed), poa Genus (i.e. blue, meadow's, spear, tussock grasses). Care must be taken to offer wild greens and weeds that are only harvested anywhere in the country side far from highly polluted areas (i.e. cities, metropolises, towns).

• Only avocados and rhubarb should never be offered because they are both highly intoxicating.*

Complete vegetarian proteins:

Produced by always combining 1 type of cereal with 1 type of legume/pulse and to offer during immatures' growth, during molting seasons and/or during breeding seasons (most particularly during the rearing of chicks) i.e. almonds + oat groat/meal, couscous + lentils, beans + pastas, quinoa + peas, rice + tofu.

Soaked and/or sprouted cereals and grains:

Aduki beans, alfalfa beans, buckwheat, lentils, millets & sprays, mung beans, pinto beans, red kidney beans, sesame seeds, sunflower seeds.

Sprouts should be offered at least weekly to juveniles, adults, pets and breeder specimens in the breeding season, and on a daily or at least weekly basis to breeders in breeding-season rearing their chicks.

• Caution with only lima and navy beans which are toxic when sprouted but healthy when well cooked.

Fresh water and a mineral block must be available at all times.

Adding these foods provides additional nutrients and can prevent obesity and lipomas, as can substituting millet, which is relatively low in fat, for higher-fat seed mixes. Adult lovebirds often do not always adapt readily to dietary additions, so care must be taken to introduce healthy diets as young as possible (ideally weaned onto fresh foods before introducing chicks onto seeds). Lovebirds like any other parrots learn mainly by mimicry and thus most adult lovebirds will be easily encouraged to try new foods by observing another bird eating the food, or by placing the new food on a mirror.

Parrot species (including cockatiels) are biologically vegetarian species.[19] Consequently, they should be fed vegetarian diets that are ideally supplemented with vegetable proteins provided by the combination of any type of wholegrain/cereal with any type of legume/pulse. Eggs (hard-boiled and/or scrambled) with crushed shells are the only appropriately healthy source of animal proteins. Mostly for birds in either breeding, growing, moulting and/or recovering conditions. High levels of proteins (most particularly animal proteins) is unhealthy for lovebirds living under any alternate conditions (i.e. non-breeding, pets).

Because of their dominant and territorial nature, lovebirds should be supervised when socialising with other species and genera (whether it be cat, dog, small mammal or other bird species). Lovebirds may be aggressive to other birds, even to other lovebirds. Hand-raised lovebirds tend not to be scared and pose even more of a threat to themselves. Toe biting may occur when lovebirds are socialising/housed with small birds (i.e. parrotlets, budgies, and even docile cockatiels). They should not be housed with other bird genera as they can be injured or pose a threat to other birds.

Lovebirds are very vocal birds, making loud, high-pitched noises. Some make noise all day, especially during dawn and dusk. This is a normal parrot behaviour as flock animals, where they are calling to each other before the start of the day and just before they settle down for the night.

Lovebirds are also very active and love to chew things. When they are flying within a household, it is wise to watch them carefully and protect any furniture, electrical wiring or anything else that they could possibly chew on. Try to place fresh willow or oak branches in a favourite spot (e.g. near a high/sunny platform) to satisfy this natural behaviour. Other things to be aware of when keeping lovebirds (also applies to other pet birds) at home are the danger spots in the house, such as open toilet bowls for drowning, clear glass walls which might be rammed in full force by the bird, fumes from all Teflon or anti-stick coating in the kitchen, microwave coatings, oven coatings and chemical fumes from regular household cleaning products. Interaction with other pets in the house must also be supervised, such as cats and dogs which may view the lovebird as a prey animal.

Some people who keep birds as pets practice the clipping of the flight feathers and believe it's for safety reasons but actually they will always break their feathers when feathers will grow back and their blood feathers will bleed and they can die in less than 30/60 minutes depending on the parrot species. It can takes up to 5 years to grow them back if they have been clipped for years. The procedure is like declawing a cat. They can also really hurt themselves by falling on the ground. It modifies their aerodynamic form and will struggles flying. Parrots are prey animals and It Is their security to escape any danger by flying away. They are made to be able to fly, they are programmed to be as lightweight as possible when flying. There are also many risks of death if they have clipped wings (cats, dogs, humans). It is very stressful for parrots if they cannot escape by flying away. Parrot who can fly will have much better vision, better health, more confident, more sociable, less risks of being bitten, will scream less. They will have no control in their lives, it is very cruel to clip their wings. You have to be patient with your parrot for them to trust you, no needs to clip their wings.

Lovebirds of different species can mate and produce both sterile and fertile hybrid offspring, for example Agapornis personatus mate with Agapornis fischeri will produce fertile hybrid offspring. These offspring have behaviours of both parents. For this reason it is recommended to only place birds of the same species together, or of the same sex.

There are two lovebird societies in the United States: the Agapornis Breeders and Exhibitors and the African Love Bird Society.