The demand for safe, long-lasting, and effective hair reduction for aesthetic as well as medical indications is on the rise. A variety of options for hair removal are available, such as epilation by plucking or waxing, depilation by shaving, chemical depilatories, electrolysis, eflornithine cream, and laser and intense pulsed light (IPL) systems. A variety of lasers and IPL systems are available and are the most effective options for long-term hair reduction.[1] The mechanism of action of these systems is the targeting melanin in the hair shaft, follicular epithelium, and hair matrix by emitting light with wavelengths ranging from 600 to 1200 nanometers (nm), because those wavelengths are selectively absorbed by melanin.[2]
Selective Photothermolysis
Lasers for skin treatment work on the theory of "selective photothermolysis." This term implies a site-specific, thermally mediated injury of microscopic tissue targets by the selective absorption of pulses of radiation by the targets and the chromophores. The natural or artificial chromophores absorb monochromatic or broadband electromagnetic radiation of specific wavelengths. The chromophore employed in laser hair reduction is melanin. Melanin absorbs light in the range of 300 to 1200 nm, and lasers in this range of wavelengths can be effectively used for hair reduction.[3][4]
An Extended Theory of Selective Photothermolysis
Target absorption may not always be uniform. In these cases, the weakly absorbing parts may have to be destroyed by heat diffusion from the highly absorbing parts. This is the "extended theory of selective photothermolysis." This principle is applied to laser photoablation. Melanin content is much higher in melanin-bearing structures like the hair shaft and matrix cells than in the hair follicle. Thus melanin captures energy from the laser and distributes it to the surrounding follicular structures. This results in the destruction of the hair matrix and hair bulge stem cells.[5]
Lasers for hair reduction include the following:
* Fitzpatrick Skin Types[10]
Post-Procedure Care
The hair matrix is only sensitive to laser treatment during the anagen phase of the hair growth cycle; therefore multiple treatments will be necessary in order to address all hair follicles when they are most sensitive to treatment. In the initial phase of hair removal therapy, 4 to 6 sessions spaced 4 to 6 weeks apart are the minimum required to achieve adequate results. Subsequently, patients may need maintenance treatments once every 6 to 12 months as small vellus hair may grow back.[16]
Various factors may affect the outcome, such as:
Adjacent epidermal structures other than melanin within the hair bulb can compete for absorption, and may cause laser energy to be absorbed by pigment in the epidermis. This hampers the effectiveness of the treatment and causes adverse effects due to adjacent epithelial damage. [17]
Common adverse effects of laser or IPL-based hair removal include post-treatment erythema, pain, and burning.[18]
More severe adverse effects include blistering, crusting, dyspigmentation, purpura, and sometimes scarring.[19][20] Ocular complications due to accidental injury may be seen. Paradoxical hypertrichosis may rarely occur, more commonly in skin type III and with the use of IPL systems.[21][22][23]
Selecting the correct lasers with the appropriate parameters, individualized to each patient, is very important, particularly in patients with intrinsically dark skin. Most complications are preventable when adequate precautions are taken with adjustment of the fluence, spot size, wavelength, and the use of appropriate cooling. Thus, it is all the more important that trained personnel with a thorough knowledge of the mechanisms, techniques, and complications carry out these procedures.
Laser hair removal is performed by many healthcare workers including nurses, dermatologists, plastic surgeons, primary care providers and other cosmetic surgeons. Unfortunately, because of lack of oversight, complications are common during this procedure. To make matters worse, patients are often given unrealistic expectations. The key is to use the correct laser, especially in dark skinned individuals. Common adverse effects of laser or IPL-based hair removal include post-treatment erythema, pain, and burning.[18] More severe adverse effects include blistering, crusting, dyspigmentation, purpura, and sometimes, scarring.[19][20] Ocular complications due to accidental injury may be seen. Paradoxical hypertrichosis may rarely occur, more commonly in skin type III and with the use of IPL systems.[21][22][23]
Overall, lasers can remove hair but rarely does the procedure provide a permanent cure for hair growth. Touch up maintenance treatments are required for most patients in the long term.
[1] | Evidence-based review of hair removal using lasers and light sources., Haedersdal M,Wulf HC,, Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology : JEADV, 2006 Jan [PubMed PMID: 16405602] |
[2] | Laser hair removal: a review and report on the use of the long-pulsed alexandrite laser for hair reduction of the upper lip, leg, back, and bikini region., McDaniel DH,Lord J,Ash K,Newman J,Zukowski M,, Dermatologic surgery : official publication for American Society for Dermatologic Surgery [et al.], 1999 Jun [PubMed PMID: 10469087] |
[3] | Selective photothermolysis: precise microsurgery by selective absorption of pulsed radiation., Anderson RR,Parrish JA,, Science (New York, N.Y.), 1983 Apr 29 [PubMed PMID: 6836297] |
[4] | Laser-assisted hair removal by selective photothermolysis. Preliminary results., Lask G,Elman M,Slatkine M,Waldman A,Rozenberg Z,, Dermatologic surgery : official publication for American Society for Dermatologic Surgery [et al.], 1997 Sep [PubMed PMID: 9311365] |
[5] | Extended theory of selective photothermolysis., Altshuler GB,Anderson RR,Manstein D,Zenzie HH,Smirnov MZ,, Lasers in surgery and medicine, 2001 [PubMed PMID: 11891730] |
[6] | Laser hair removal., Goldberg DJ,, Dermatologic clinics, 2002 Jul [PubMed PMID: 12170888] |
[7] | Permanent hair removal by normal-mode ruby laser., Dierickx CC,Grossman MC,Farinelli WA,Anderson RR,, Archives of dermatology, 1998 Jul [PubMed PMID: 9681347] |
[8] | Alexandrite laser hair removal is safe for Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI., Garcia C,Alamoudi H,Nakib M,Zimmo S,, Dermatologic surgery : official publication for American Society for Dermatologic Surgery [et al.], 2000 Feb [PubMed PMID: 10691941] |
[9] | Prospective study of hair reduction by diode laser (800 nm) with long-term follow-up., Lou WW,Quintana AT,Geronemus RG,Grossman MC,, Dermatologic surgery : official publication for American Society for Dermatologic Surgery [et al.], 2000 May [PubMed PMID: 10816229] |
[10] | Nd:YAG laser hair removal in Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI., Chan CS,Dover JS,, Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 2013 Mar [PubMed PMID: 23545924] |
[11] | Hair removal with a non-coherent filtered flashlamp intense pulsed light source., Weiss RA,Weiss MA,Marwaha S,Harrington AC,, Lasers in surgery and medicine, 1999 [PubMed PMID: 10100650] |
[12] | Hair removal using a pulsed-intense light source., Tse Y,, Dermatologic clinics, 1999 Apr [PubMed PMID: 10327304] |
[13] | Long-term photoepilation using a broad-spectrum intense pulsed light source., Sadick NS,Weiss RA,Shea CR,Nagel H,Nicholson J,Prieto VG,, Archives of dermatology, 2000 Nov [PubMed PMID: 11074695] |
[14] | A practical review of laser-assisted hair removal using the Q-switched Nd:YAG, long-pulsed ruby, and long-pulsed alexandrite lasers., Nanni CA,Alster TS,, Dermatologic surgery : official publication for American Society for Dermatologic Surgery [et al.], 1998 Dec [PubMed PMID: 9865211] |
[15] | Lasers in dermatology: four decades of progress., Tanzi EL,Lupton JR,Alster TS,, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2003 Jul [PubMed PMID: 12833005] |
[16] | Damage to hair follicles by normal-mode ruby laser pulses., Grossman MC,Dierickx C,Farinelli W,Flotte T,Anderson RR,, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1996 Dec [PubMed PMID: 8959946] |
[17] | Side effects and complications of laser therapy., McBurney EI,, Dermatologic clinics, 2002 Jan [PubMed PMID: 11859590] |
[18] | Hair removal by lasers and intense pulsed light sources., Dierickx CC,, Dermatologic clinics, 2002 Jan [PubMed PMID: 11859588] |
[19] | Laser-assisted hair removal: side effects of Q-switched Nd:YAG, long-pulsed ruby, and alexandrite lasers., Nanni CA,Alster TS,, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1999 Aug [PubMed PMID: 10426883] |
[20] | Reticulate erythema following diode laser-assisted hair removal: a new side effect of a common procedure., Lapidoth M,Shafirstein G,Ben Amitai D,Hodak E,Waner M,David M,, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2004 Nov [PubMed PMID: 15523357] |
[21] | Laser-assisted hair removal in Asian skin: efficacy, complications, and the effect of single versus multiple treatments., Hussain M,Polnikorn N,Goldberg DJ,, Dermatologic surgery : official publication for American Society for Dermatologic Surgery [et al.], 2003 Mar [PubMed PMID: 12614418] |
[22] | Laser therapy on darker ethnic skin., Battle EF Jr,Hobbs LM,, Dermatologic clinics, 2003 Oct [PubMed PMID: 14717412] |
[23] | Paradoxical hypertrichosis after laser epilation., Alajlan A,Shapiro J,Rivers JK,MacDonald N,Wiggin J,Lui H,, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2005 Jul [PubMed PMID: 15965427] |