Áo giao lĩnh

The áo giao lĩnh (襖交領; lit. 'shirt intersecting collar'), also known as the giao lãnh y (交領衣). Folks would often refer to it as the áo tràng vạt (襖長拔) or áo tràng xiên, referred to as áo tràng, was a traditional vibrant cross-collared robe worn by Vietnamese before the French conquest that would completely reshape the Vietnamese culture, as well as the clothing norm’s . There was a highly complex version of historical significance known as the Han Chinese clothing[1] and was typically worn by royalty to signify aristocracy and nobility, as well as the commoners.[2] During the Nguyễn dynasty, it was later replaced by the áo ngũ thân and became obsolete.[3][4]

Áo giao lĩnh
Trần Nhân Tông TLĐSXSCĐ
Áo giao lĩnh robes as depicted in a section of a 14th-century scroll, Trần dynasty
Vietnamese alphabetáo giao lĩnh
Chữ Hán襖交領
Literal meaningShirt intersecting collar

Construction and design
Portrait of Trịnh Đình Kiên, 18th century, Revival Lê dynasty
Sĩ nữ đồ (仕女圖)
Sĩ nữ đồ (仕女圖) painting of Revival Lê dynasty in đình Ngoại, Thanh Liệt commune, Thanh Trì district, Hanoi

The áo giao lĩnh was a historically significant Han Chinese garment.[1] It is a robe with a wrap collar closing to the right side. The wrap collar closing on the right side is known as jiaoling youren (Chinese: 交領右衽; lit. 'intersecting collar right lapel') in China; garments with this form of wrap collar originated in China and started to be worn traditionally since the Shang dynasty (c. 1600 BC– c. 1045 BC)[5][6] before spreading to other countries.[7] Although the design of the áo giao lĩnh was heavily influenced by China, it was less constrained in style compared to its Chinese counterpart; and thus, facilitated ease of movements to its wearer.[2]

The Vietnamese civilians (man and woman) in Lê dynasty wearing áo giao lĩnh.

In the 17th and 18th century, the áo giao lĩnh worn by men was an ankle-level gown which could be used as part of a formal attire; it was composed of four-panel of fabric and was loose-fitting and featured a jiaoling youren collar, loose sleeves, and side slits.[8]: 72  It was typically not decorated and black in colour.[8]: 72  The women's áo giao lĩnh were also a non-decorated, four panel of fabric, loose fitting gown, similar to those worn by men.[8]: 72  Women usually tied a sash around their waist when wearing the áo giao lĩnh; the áo giao lĩnh came in blue, black, brown colours while the sash was either white in colour or found in the same colour as the áo giao lĩnh.[8]: 72 

History
Paintings of activities of Vietnamese people in the Revival Lê dynasty
Áo giao lĩnh in the Nguyễn dynasty

Prior to 18th Century
Painting of Nguyễn Quý Kính, a mandarin of the Revival Lê dynasty
Painting of Nguyễn Quán Nho, a prime minister of the Revival Lê dynasty

Prior to the 18th century, people wore the áo giao lĩnh, which were influenced by Han Chinese clothing.[1] During the Lê dynasty (1428 – 1789 AD), all classes people wore the áo giao lĩnh.[9]

18th Century
Portrait of Lê Quang Việp (? - 1804), Nguyễn dynasty

In the 18th century, the áo ngũ thân (the precursor of the áo dài) replaced the áo giao lĩnh in order to meet the clothing requirement decreed by the Nguyễn dynasty court during the rule of Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát in 1744 in order to distinguish the clothing worn between the people under his rule from the people ruled by the Trịnh lords.[1][9][10] The áo ngũ thân then became the official clothing for both men and women in the South of Vietnam.[11]

Nguyễn Bá Nghi (1807-1870) wearing a giao lĩnh

19th Century
Portrait of Nguyễn Văn Hậu, 20th century
Portrait of Mrs. Châu Thị Ngọc Lương, wife of Mr. Hồ Đắc Trung, 20th century

In the 19th century, under the rule of Emperor Minh Mạng (r. 1820-1841), the clothing in Vietnam was finally standardized throughout the entire country when Emperor Minh Mạng decreed that the áo ngũ thân had to become the standardized national dress for all the regions under his rule.[12][13] The áo ngũ thân thus became the daily clothing of the Vietnamese.[13] However, áo giao lĩnh was still used as formal and ceremonial clothing.

21st Century
Reconstructing the image of famous celebrity Vũ Miên according to ancient reliefs of the Revival Lê dynasty
A portrait of the Quan Hoàng Mười Nghệ An (Tenth Prince of Nghệ An), a god in Đạo Mẫu, an indigenous polytheistic beliefs of Vietnam

In the 21st century, áo giao lĩnh worn in the 15th century was depicted in a book titled Weaving a Realm published by the Vietnam Centre (a non-profit organization which aims to promote the culture and image of Vietnam[14]).[15][16] The authors of the book mostly consisted of dress makers, artists, stylists, photographers, proof readers and editors (but lacked the presence of historians and archeologists) attempted to reconstruct the ancient clothing worn by Vietnamese through extensive historical research.[17] However, due to the lack of funds, the reconstructed clothing were not made with original materials or techniques.[17]

  • Áo giao lĩnh as depicted in various paintings and photos:
  • Portrait of Duke Tôn Thất Hiệp from the 17th century. He wears a áo giao lĩnh (cross-collared robe) which was commonly worn by Vietnamese aristocrats before the 19th century
    Portrait of Duke Tôn Thất Hiệp from the 17th century. He wears a áo giao lĩnh (cross-collared robe) which was commonly worn by Vietnamese aristocrats before the 19th century
  • Giảng học đồ (Teaching), 18th century, Hanoi Museum of National History. Scholars and students wear cross-collared gowns (áo cổ chéo) – unlike the buttoned áo ngũ thân
    Giảng học đồ (Teaching), 18th century, Hanoi Museum of National History. Scholars and students wear cross-collared gowns (áo cổ chéo) – unlike the buttoned áo ngũ thân
  • Vietnamese civilians in Cochinchina are depicted in Huang Qing Zhigong Tu
    Vietnamese civilians in Cochinchina are depicted in Huang Qing Zhigong Tu
  • Two women and a child in Đông Kinh (now is Hanoi) around the 1700s.
    Two women and a child in Đông Kinh (now is Hanoi) around the 1700s.
  • The mandarin and his wife in Tonkin are depicted in Huang Qing Zhigong Tu
    The mandarin and his wife in Tonkin are depicted in Huang Qing Zhigong Tu
  • Vietnamese civilians in Tonkin are depicted in Huang Qing Zhigong Tu
    Vietnamese civilians in Tonkin are depicted in Huang Qing Zhigong Tu
  • A woman of the Nguyễn dynasty wearing a Áo tràng vạt and a Quan Âm hat
    A woman of the Nguyễn dynasty wearing a Áo tràng vạt and a Quan Âm hat
  • Áo giao lĩnh with bổ tử in the Nguyễn dynasty
    Áo giao lĩnh with bổ tử in the Nguyễn dynasty
  • Áo giao lĩnh in the Nguyễn dynasty
    Áo giao lĩnh in the Nguyễn dynasty
  • Áo tràng vạt worn over Áo ngũ thân in the Nguyễn dynasty
    Áo tràng vạt worn over Áo ngũ thân in the Nguyễn dynasty
  • The candidates who passed the exam at Nam Định exam school were given costumes
    The candidates who passed the exam at Nam Định exam school were given costumes
  • Portrait of Thân Văn Nhiếp wearing Áo Giao lĩnh
    Portrait of Thân Văn Nhiếp wearing Áo Giao lĩnh

See also

References
  1. "All about Vietnam Traditional Costumes". www.indochinatour.com. Retrieved 2021-06-30.
  2. VietnamPlus (2019-05-13). "[Video] Áo Giao Lĩnh: Ngược dòng lịch sử cùng tinh hoa cổ phục Việt | Văn hóa | Vietnam+ (VietnamPlus)". VietnamPlus (in Vietnamese). Retrieved 2022-09-11.
  3. Vu, Thuy (2014), "Đi tìm ngàn năm áo mũ", Tuoi Tre, retrieved June 16, 2015
  4. Unknown, T.Van (2013), "Ancient costumes of Vietnamese people", Vietnamnet, retrieved June 16, 2015
  5. Zhao, Yin (2014). Snapshots of Chinese culture. Xinzhi Cai. Los Angeles. ISBN 978-1-62643-003-7. OCLC 912499249.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  6. Kidd, Laura K.; Lee, Younsoo (2002). "The Style Characteristics of the Hwalot, with a Focus on One Robe from the Collection of the Honolulu Academy of Arts". Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 20 (1): 1–14. doi:10.1177/0887302x0202000101. ISSN 0887-302X. S2CID 110839493.
  7. Yu, Song-Ok (1980). "A Comparative Study on the Upper Garment in the Ancient East and West". Journal of the Korean Society of Costume. 3: 29–46. ISSN 1229-6880.
  8. Howard, Michael C. (2016). Textiles and clothing of Viet Nam : a history. Jefferson, North Carolina. ISBN 978-1-4766-6332-6. OCLC 933520702.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  9. "Áo Dài: History | VSAcademy | UNAVSA". Retrieved 2021-06-30.
  10. Fiona. "A Brief History of Traditional Vietnamese Ao Dai". Travel information for Vietnam from local experts. Retrieved 2021-06-30.
  11. "Precious photos of Vietnam's iconic Ao Dai in the old time". Vietnam Times. 2020-07-09. Retrieved 2021-06-30.
  12. "The Vietnamese "Áo dài" | Tập San Việt Học". Retrieved 2021-06-30.
  13. "Vietnam's Ao Dai to be highlighted at Hue Festival 2020". en.nhandan.vn. 17 December 2019. Retrieved 2021-06-30.
  14. "About Us | Vietnam Centre - Bring Vietnam To You". Vietnam Centre. Retrieved 2021-07-01.
  15. "Weaving a Realm: Bilingual book introduces Vietnam's costumes from the 15th century". Vietnam Times. 2020-06-14. Retrieved 2021-07-01.
  16. ""Weaving A Realm" Book Crowdfunding Project | Vietnam Centre - Bring Vietnam To You". Vietnam Centre. Retrieved 2021-07-01.
  17. Paardekooper, Roeland (26 May 2021). "Book Review: Weaving a Realm, Vietnamese clothing from around 1500 AD | EXARC". Exarc Journal (EXARC Journal Issue 2021/2). Retrieved 2021-07-01.
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