2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships

The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France.[1][2] The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.[3][4]

2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Official event logo
VenueEsforta Arena in Hachioji
LocationJapan Hachioji, Japan
Date11–21 August 2019
Competitors253 athletes from 39 nations
Websitehttps://jmsca-itadaki.com/s/n93w/
Ésforta Arena Hachioji, the event venue

Medal summary

Medalists
Event Gold Silver Bronze
Men's Lead  Adam Ondra (CZE)  Alexander Megos (GER)  Jakob Schubert (AUT)
Men's Bouldering  Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)  Jakob Schubert (AUT)  Yannick Flohé (GER)
Men's Speed  Ludovico Fossali (ITA)  Jan Kriz (CZE)  Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)
Men's Combined  Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)  Jakob Schubert (AUT)  Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
Women's Lead  Janja Garnbret (SLO)  Mia Krampl (SLO)  Ai Mori (JPN)
Women's Bouldering  Janja Garnbret (SLO)  Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)  Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
Women's Speed  Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)  Di Niu (CHN)  Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
Women's Combined  Janja Garnbret (SLO)  Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)  Shauna Coxsey (GBR)

Medal table

  *   Host nation (Japan)

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Slovenia3104
2 Japan*2215
3 Czech Republic1102
4 Italy1001
 Poland1001
6 Austria0213
7 Germany0112
8 China0101
9 Great Britain0022
10 France0011
 Kazakhstan0011
 Russia0011
Totals (12 entries)88824

Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics
Main article: Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification

The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.[3][5]

The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:

2020 Summer Olympic qualification
Men Women

 Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
 Jakob Schubert (AUT)
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
 Mickaël Mawem (FRA)
 Alexander Megos (GER)
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)
 Sean McColl (CAN)
 Kai Harada (JPN)*

 Janja Garnbret (SLO)
 Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
 Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
 Petra Klingler (SUI)
 Brooke Raboutou (USA)
 Jessica Pilz (AUT)
 Miho Nonaka (JPN)*

*  Japan, as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.

Schedule

All times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9) [6]

Q Qualifications SF Semi-finals F Finals
B Bouldering L Lead S Speed C Combined
August 2019 11th
Sun		 12th
Mon		 13th
Tue		 14th
Wed		 15th
Thu		 16th
Fri		 17th
Sat		 18th
Sun		 19th
Mon		 20th
Tue		 21st
Wed
Men B B B L L L Rest day S S C C
Women B C C

Bouldering

Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[7]
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 5t5z 5 5 3t4z 7 6 3T3z 8 8
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 5t5z 9 9 2t4z 3 8 2T2z 4 2
3 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 3t5z 6 9 0t3z 0 6 2T2z 6 6
4 Ukraine Ievgeniia Kazbekova 4t5z 14 14 1t2z 2 3 1T2z 3 4
5 Japan Miho Nonaka 3t4z 4 8 0t3z 0 5 1T2z 5 6
6 Japan Nanako Kura 5t5z 12 10 1t2z 1 5 0T1z 0 1

Men
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[8]
1 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4t4z 8 5 2t4z 2 4 2T4z 12 20
2 Austria Jakob Schubert 3t4z 5 6 1t4z 3 12 0T3z 0 10
3 Germany Yannick Flohé 3t5z 5 14 2t4z 13 16 0T3z 0 13
4 Japan Kokoro Fujii 4t4z 5 5 2t4z 5 6 0T3z 0 18
5 Japan Keita Dohi 3t5z 6 8 2t4z 5 10 0T2z 0 9
6 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 5t5z 6 6 3t4z 11 7 0T0z 0 0

Lead

Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[9]
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP 1 TOP 1 1.22 38+ 43+
2 Slovenia Mia Krampl 35+ 6 32 7 7.35 34 39+
3 Japan Ai Mori 39+ 2 TOP 1 1.73 34+ 38+
4 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 34 8 38 4 5.66 32 38+
5 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 34+ 7 33+ 6 6.48 32 38+
6 Austria Jessica Pilz 37+ 3 31+ 12 8.26 30+ 35+
7 Slovenia Vita Lukan 28 21 31+ 12 21.18 35 30+
8 France Julia Chanourdie 31+ 10 31+ 12 14.97 30+ 30+

Men
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[10]
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1 Czech Republic Adam Ondra TOP 1 31 22 9.07 37+ 34+
2 Germany Alex Megos TOP 1 32+ 7 6.06 40+ 33+
3 Austria Jakob Schubert TOP 1 TOP 1 3.50 30+ 33+
4 Japan Tomoa Narasaki TOP 1 TOP 1 3.50 38 30
5 Canada Sean McColl 31+ 9 TOP 1 5.61 37+ 30
6 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 28+ 18 TOP 1 8.05 29+ 29+
7 Japan Kai Harada 32+ 8 TOP 1 5.29 31+ 28+
8 Sweden Hannes Puman 29+ 11 32+ 7 11.68 29+ 27+

Speed

Women

Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.[11]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Final
            
1  Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.472
16  MingWei Ni (CHN) 7.819
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.337
 Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 8.008
8  Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 8.114
9  Elena Remizova (RUS) fall
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.337
 YiLing Song (CHN) fall
4  Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) 8.465
13  Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) 7.789
 Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) 7.605
 YiLing Song (CHN) 7.192
5  YiLing Song (CHN) 7.436
12  Anna Brożek (POL) 7.945
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.129
 Di Niu (CHN) 8.363
2  Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 7.454
15  Andrea Rojas (ECU) 8.202
 Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 7.998
 Di Niu (CHN) 7.814
7  Natalia Kałucka (POL) 7.895
10  Di Niu (CHN) 7.871
 Di Niu (CHN) 7.525
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.535
3  Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 8.409 Small final
14  Aurelia Sarisson (FRA) 10.504
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.663  YiLing Song (CHN) 9.76
 Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) 10.188  Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.53
6  Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) 7.747
11  PeiYang Tian (CHN) 8.080

Men

Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.[12]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Final
            
1  Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) 6.150
16  Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.944
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.808
 Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 5.863
8  Sergey Rukin (RUS) fall
9  Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 6.232
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) fall
 Jan Kriz (CZE) 5.986
4  Reza Alipour (IRI) 6.281
13  John Brosler (USA) 9.383
 Reza Alipour (IRI) 7.248
 Jan Kriz (CZE) 6.219
5  Long Cao (CHN) 6.441
12  Jan Kriz (CZE) 6.136
 Jan Kriz (CZE) fall
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) 6.871
2  Vladislav Deulin (RUS) 5.612
15  QiXin Zhong (CHN) 5.580
 QiXin Zhong (CHN) FS
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) WC
7  Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) fall
10  Ludovico Fossali (ITA) 5.908
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) WC
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) FS
3  Bassa Mawem (FRA) 7.470 Small final
14  Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) 7.013
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) 7.613  Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.83
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 7.500  Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 5.93
6  Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 5.940
11  ZhiYong Ou (CHN) 6.072
WC – Wildcard
FS – False start

Combined

Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.[6]

In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.[13]

Women

[14]

Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead
Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 12.00 6 13.399 2 1T2z 1 2 1 Top
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 21.00 7 10.082 1 2T2z 3 3 3 40+
3 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 42.00 2 9.225 3 1T2z 2 3 7 20
4 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 64.00 1 7.750 8 0T0z 0 0 8 10
5 Japan Miho Nonaka 80.00 4 12.356 4 1T2z 3 4 5 23+
6 Japan Ai Mori 80.00 8 12.860 5 1T2z 3 7 2 Top
7 Japan Futaba Ito 120.00 5 8.655 6 0T2z 0 2 4 27
8 Switzerland Petra Klingler 126.00 3 8.901 7 0T2z 0 3 6 23+

Men

[15]

Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead
Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds
1 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4.00 2 fall 1 3T3z 4 3 2 30
2 Austria Jakob Schubert 35.00 7 7.208 5 0T3z 0 6 1 Top
3 Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin 40.00 1 5.915 8 0T1z 0 2 5 22
4 Japan Kai Harada 54.00 3 6.348 6 0T2z 0 6 3 30
5 Japan Meichi Narasaki 60.00 5 6.689 2 1T3z 1 4 6 21
6 Japan Kokoro Fujii 72.00 6 9.438 3 1T3z 2 6 4 29+
7 France Mickaël Mawem 112.00 4 6.716 4 1T2z 3 4 7 20
8 Germany Alexander Megos 448.00 8 7.570 7 0T1z 0 1 8 0

See also

References
  1. "IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  2. "IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships - Briançon (FRA) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  3. "GB Climbing in Hachioji: first step to Tokyo 2020". British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  4. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  5. "Top climbers seeking to use world championships in Hachioji as springboard to 2020 Games". The Japan Times. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  6. "All you need to know about the IFSC Climbing World Championships 2019". Olympics.com. Retrieved 2021-09-09.
  7. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  8. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  9. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  10. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  11. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  12. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  13. "IFSC RULES 2019 VERSION No 1.9.2" (PDF). IFSC. Archived from the original (PDF) on Aug 21, 2019.
  14. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result WOMEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 20, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  15. "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result MEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 21, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.
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