Bourette

Bourette is a silk fabric with bumps often blended with other yarns made of Bourette fibers. The name "Bourette" is from its constituting fiber. It has a rough surface incorporating multicolored threads and knots of spun silk. The fabric is made with silk bourette and wool or cotton yarn. Bourette is a lightweight single cloth with a rough, knotty, and uneven surface.[1][2]

Silk waste

Silk waste has many copious names wherein Floss is a general name for silk waste. Other names are 'Schappe' or 'echappe.'[3]

"Schapping" is a step of silk production of fermentation at low temperature for softening the gum.[4] Schappe is one of the made products from Silk waste/Floss. [3]

Bourette and Florette

Silk waste consists of two types, Bourette and Florette. The bourette fibers are short in length compared to the 'Florette', which are long silk fibers, suitable for products such as combed or worsted materials.[5][6][7][3]

Construction

Bourette yarn

Bourette yarn is a coarse, irregular slubbed yarn type made of silk waste fiber created during silk processing. [8]

Weave

The fabric is a plain weave fabric but also possible with twill weave. The warp is made with wool or other types of yarns, and the weft is bourette. The yarn slubs provide a unique texture with small fancy colored lumps, scattered throughout.[1][2]

Uses

Bourette was used for dresses, and furnishing material.[2]

References
  1. Ingrid Johnson, Phyllis G. Tortora (2013). The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles. Bloomsbury Academic. p. 71. ISBN 9781609015350.
  2. Montgomery, Florence M. (1984). Textiles in America 1650-1870 : a dictionary based on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements, and pattern books with original swatches of cloth. Internet Archive. New York ; London : Norton. p. 175. ISBN 978-0-393-01703-8.
  3. Nystrom, Paul Henry (1916). Textiles. D. Appleton. p. 195.
  4. Rayner, Hollins (1921). Silk throwing and waste silk spinning. Internet Archive. London, Scott, Greenwood & Son; New York, D. Van Nostrand Co. pp. xv.
  5. Georgievics, Georg Von (2013-01-31). The Chemical Technology of Textile Fibres - Their Origin, Structure, Preparation, Washing, Bleaching, Dyeing, Printing and Dressing. Read Books Ltd. ISBN 978-1-4474-8612-1.
  6. Textile World Record. Lord & Nagle Company. 1905. p. 83.
  7. Basu, Trailokya Nath (1964). Tant-o-rang: A Book of Textile Technology.
  8. Simmonds, Peter Lund (1876). Waste Products and Undeveloped Substances. Hardwicke and Bogue.


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