Dartford

The quarry at Bluewater, showing the underlying chalk

Dartford lies within the area known as the London Basin. The low-lying marsh to the north of the town consists of London Clay and the alluvium brought down by the two rivers—the Darent and the Cray—whose confluence is in this area. The higher land on which the town stands and through which the narrow Darent valley runs, consists of chalk[2] surmounted by the Blackheath Beds of sand and gravel.

As a human settlement, Dartford became established as a river crossing-point with the coming of the Romans; and as a focal point between two routes: that from west to east being part of the main route connecting London with the Continent; and the southerly route following the Darent valley. As a result, the town's main road pattern makes the shape of letter 'T'. The Dartford Marshes to the north and the proximity of Crayford in the London Borough of Bexley to the west, mean that the town's growth is to the south and east. Wilmington is contiguous with the town to the south; whilst the almost continuous Thames Gateway development means that there is little to show the town boundary in an easterly direction.

Within the town boundaries there are several distinct areas: the town centre around the parish church and along the High Street; the Joyce Green area; Temple Hill estate constructed in 1947; the Brent; Fleet Downs; as well as two important areas of open space and several industrial estates. The open spaces are Central Park, alongside the river; and Dartford Heath.

In prehistoric times, the first people appeared in the Dartford area around 250,000 years ago: a tribe of prehistoric hunter-gatherers whose exemplar is called Swanscombe Man. Many other archaeological investigations have revealed a good picture of occupation of the district with important finds from the Stone Age, the Bronze Age and the Iron Age.

The Royal Oak Pub, which has seventeenth-century origins, in Dartford

When the Romans engineered the Dover to London road (afterwards named Watling Street), it was necessary to cross the River Darent by ford, giving the settlement its name. Roman villas were built along the Darent Valley, and at Noviomagus (Crayford), close by. The Saxons may have established the first settlement where Dartford now stands. Dartford manor is mentioned in the Domesday Book, compiled in 1086, after the Norman conquest. It was then owned by the king.

The Library and Museum in front

During the medieval period Dartford was an important waypoint for pilgrims and travellers en route to Canterbury and the Continent, and various religious orders established themselves in the area. In the 12th century the Knights Templar had possession of the manor of Dartford;[4] the National Trust property at Sutton-at-Hone, to the south of the town, is a remaining piece of that history. In the 14th century, a priory was established here, and two groups of friars—the Dominicans and the Franciscans—built hospitals here for the care of the sick. At this time the town became a small but important market town.

Wat Tyler, of Peasants' Revolt fame, might well have been a local hero, although three other towns in Kent all claim likewise, and there are reasons to doubt the strength of Tyler's connection to Dartford, though[5] the existence of a town centre public house named after him could give credence to Dartford's claim. Dartford, however, cannot claim a monopoly on public houses named after Tyler.

It is probable that Dartford was a key meeting point early in the Peasants' Revolt with a detachment of Essex rebels marching south to join Kentish rebels at Dartford before accompanying them to Rochester and Canterbury in the first week of June 1381. Although lacking a leader, Kentishmen had assembled at Dartford around 5 June through a sense of county solidarity at the mistreatment of Robert Belling, a man claimed as a serf by Sir Simon Burley. Burley had abused his royal court connections to invoke the arrest of Belling and, despite a compromise being proposed by bailiffs in Gravesend, continued to demand the impossible £300 of silver for Belling's release. Having left for Rochester and Canterbury on 5 June, the rebels passed back through Dartford, swollen in number, a week later on 12 June en route for London.[6]

The gatehouse of Henry VIII's Royal Manor

In the 15th century, two kings of England became part of the town's history. Henry V marched through Dartford in November 1415 with his troops after fighting the French at the Battle of Agincourt; in 1422 Henry's body was taken to Holy Trinity Church by Edmund Lacey, Bishop of Exeter, who conducted a funeral. In March 1452, Richard, Duke of York, camped at the Brent allegedly with ten thousand men, waiting for a confrontation with King Henry VI. The Duke surrendered to the king in Dartford. The place of the camp is marked today by York Road, Dartford.

The 16th century saw significant changes to the hitherto agrarian basis of the market in Dartford, as new industries began to take shape (see below). The priory was destroyed in 1538 during the Dissolution of the Monasteries and a new manor house was subsequently constructed by King Henry VIII. In 1545, Henry held a series of meetings of his Privy Council in the town, and from 21 to 25 June 1545 Dartford was the seat of the national government.[7] Henry's fourth wife Anne of Cleves lived at the new priory for four years before her death in 1557.[8]

Many Protestants were executed during the reigns of Queen Mary (1553–1554) and Philip and Mary (1554–1558), including Christopher Wade, a Dartford linen-weaver who was burnt at the stake on the Brent in 1555. The Martyrs' Memorial on East Hill commemorates Wade and other Kentish Martyrs. In 1576 Dartford Grammar School was founded,[2] part of the Tudor emphasis on education for ordinary people.

Industrial history

Mural depicting Dartford's industrial heritage painted at One Bell Corner. The mural was designed and painted in 2000 by artist Gary Drostle.

The earliest industries were those connected with agriculture, such as the brewing of traditional beers and ales. Lime-burning and chalk-mining also had their place. Fulling was another: the cleansing of wool needed a great deal of water, which the river could provide. This led to other water-based industries, using hydropower to operate machinery.

Upon his return in 1578 from Frobisher Bay in the Canadian Arctic with a reputed cargo of gold-bearing ore, Sir Martin Frobisher had the refining done on Powder Mill Lane in Dartford. However, the ore proved valueless and was used for road surfacing. Sir John Spielman set up the first paper mill in England at Dartford in 1588 on a site near Powder Mill Lane, and soon some 600 employees worked there, providing an invaluable source of local employment. Iron-making on the Weald was in full operation at this time, and iron ingots were sent to Dartford, to England's first iron-slitting mill, set up by the Darent at Dartford Creek in 1595 by Godfrey Box, an immigrant from the Low Countries. In 1785, John Hall, a millwright set up a workshop in Lowfield Street and began to make engines, boilers and machinery (some of it for the local gunpowder factory run by Miles Peter Andrews and the Pigou family), marking the foundation of J & E Hall, an engineering firm specialising in heavy engineering, and later refrigerating equipment, and, for 20 years from 1906, vehicle production, plus lifts and escalators.

From those humble beginnings in the 18th century was to come the industrial base on which the growth and prosperity of Dartford were founded. In 1840 the mustard factory of Saunders & Harrison was described as being "perhaps the largest in the kingdom".[9] Dartford Paper Mills were built in 1862, when excise duty on paper was abolished. Between 1844 and 1939 the fabric printing works of Augustus Applegath were in being in Bullace Lane: again a firm using the waters of the river. RAF Joyce Green, at Long Reach, near Dartford was one of the first Royal Flying Corps airfields, It was established in 1911 by Vickers Limited (the aircraft and weapons manufacturer, who used it as an airfield and testing ground. It was superseded by Biggin Hill, and closed in 1919. The demand created by World War I meant that output at the local Vickers factory multiplied, with a positive effect on the local economy. Burroughs-Wellcome chemical works (later incorporated into GlaxoSmithKline) made Dartford a centre for the pharmaceutical industry.[10] There had been a large power station at Littlebrook on the Thames, to the north of the town, from 1939 until its closure in 2015. The station, including one of the tallest chimneys in the UK, was completely demolished in 2019.

The Chemical Works at Dartford c. 1896

Low cost shopping units in the Priory shopping centre

Some of Dartford's key industries, including brewing, paper-making, flour milling and the manufacture of cement,[2] suffered extreme decline in the 20th century, causing redundancies and unemployment.[14] Swanscombe Cement Works (now redeveloped into Bluewater shopping centre) was closed by Blue Circle in 1990.[14][15] This industry had been an economic boon to the area,[15] but left behind a lot of derelict land and pollution. In 1990 Dartford contained around 1,700 acres (6.9 km²) of spoiled land resulting from extractive industries, and cement-dust pollution from local cement works was a regular subject of complaint in the local press throughout the 20th century.[14]

The closure of Dartford's major employers (including Seagers' Engineering Works, J & E Hall International, and Vickers), the reduction and subsequent closure of Burroughs Wellcome (now GlaxoSmithKline), the redevelopment of nearby Bexleyheath as a shopping town in the 1970s, and the opening of Bluewater Shopping Centre in 1999, all had a negative effect on the economy of Dartford, but the town is still home to major brands such as Sainsbury's, W.H. Smiths, and Boots. With the opening of the major Bluewater regional shopping centre just outside the town, the high street has seen a growth in cheaper brands such as Primark and Wilko taking over empty premises. Wilko announced in 2023 that it was going into receivership. In the 1990s, the local economy was boosted by the establishment of a number of business parks in the area, the biggest being Crossways Business Park at the foot of the Queen Elizabeth II Bridge.[14]

The twentieth-century war memorial in Dartford

In 2007 Dartford saw an increase in the number of chain stores located in the town as B&Q, M&S Simply Food, TK Maxx and Asda Living opened new outlet stores in the town centre. Before this Safeway had taken part in the development of Dartford's second shopping centre, The Orchards, located next to the Orchard Theatre. The Safeway's site was eventually taken over by Waitrose but this closed in March 2014 and a new Aldi store opened in June 2015. The historical and once bustling main High Street and adjacent shopping centre, The Priory, continued to decline, and went into receivership in 2013,[16] and the large department store previously occupied by the Co-operative has now been demolished, having been bought by Dartford Borough Council. The oldest independent business still trading in Dartford, the butchers Richardson & Sons in Lowfield Street, established in 1908, closed down in 2014 to make way for the proposed Lowfield centre superstore development.[17] The problems with obtaining planning permission for this development and associated residential units were compounded by the recession. This created persistent delay in regeneration of the Lowfield Street site, and on 8 January 2015 it was finally announced that the Tesco plans were to be abandoned.[18]

The Orchard Theatre

Central Park

The Orchard Theatre is a professional theatre in the town centre, with a schedule including drama, dance, music and entertainment. The Mick Jagger Centre, within the grounds of Dartford Grammar School on Shepherds Lane, was completed in 2000 and provides facilities for community arts.[19] library and Museum are located on Market Street.

Central Park, in the town centre, is used for various community events.[20] It comprises 26 acres (110,000 m²) of land.[21]

Health

The City of London Lunatic Asylum in 1866

Between 1877 and 1903 the number of hospitals in Dartford rose to 11, together providing 10,000 hospital beds, at a time when the town's population was a little over 20,000.[31] The majority of these have been closed, especially since the opening of Darent Valley Hospital. One of the best-known, Stone House Hospital, in Cotton Lane to the east of the town, was opened on 16 April 1866 as the "City of London Lunatic Asylum". It was, and still is, a large castellated structure built in spacious grounds. It remained under the direct administration of the City of London until 1948, when it was transferred to the National Health Service (NHS). It remains one of the largest and most visible structures in Dartford, and was until recently operated by the NHS to manage regional health care delivery, and was also home to a nursing school, Livingstone Hospital, on East Hill. The main buildings of this facility are now closed, and have been turned into luxury flats.

The ford, now Dartford Bridge over the River Darent, and Holy Trinity Church

Richard Trevithick memorial at St. Edmund's Park

The parish church, Holy Trinity, is situated on the western bank of the River Darent, from where a hermit would conduct travellers across the ford. The church was originally a 9th-century Saxon structure, but gained later Norman additions. In the 13th century a royal wedding was celebrated there; thus today the choristers are entitled to wear scarlet cassocks. Also on display within the church is a brass plaque commemorating the work of Richard Trevithick, the pioneer of steam propulsion, who, at the end of his career, lived, worked (at J & E Hall) and died in the town.

Other places of worship in Dartford include: Brent Methodist Church, Brethren's Meeting Room, Dartford Methodist Church, Highfield Road Baptist Church, Net Church, St Alban's Church, St Andrew's United Reformed Church, Christ Church Dartford, Grace Outreach Church, and Zion Strict Baptist Chapel.

The graveyard is situated in St Edmund's Pleasance on the summit of East Hill (the place where Richard Trevithick is buried), which gave rise to a traditional and derogatory rhyme of Dartford's people: "Dirty Dartford, filthy people, bury their dead above the steeple." The church actually has no steeple; it has a tower featuring a ring of eight bells.[33]

• Hanau[34]
• Gravelines

A sculpture of Mick Jagger, who grew up in Dartford, in the town's Central Park

The following are from or have lived in Dartford (or other connection if specified):

• Doreen Allen (1879–1963), militant suffragette
• Malcolm Allison (1927–2010), football player and manager
• Andrea Arnold (born 1961), Oscar and BAFTA winning film director
• George Barton (1808–1864), Sussex cricketer
• Martina Bergman-Österberg (1849–1915), physical education pioneer and founder of Dartford College
• Peter Blake (born 1932), pop artist
• Edward Brander (1845–1883), cricketer
• Richard Cant (born 1964), actor
• Dave Charnley (1935–2012), British Lightweight Champion boxer (1957–63)
• Ron Cooper (1932–2012), bicycle frame builder
• Mackenzie Crook (born 1971), actor
• Graham Dilley (1959–2011), Kent and England cricketer
• Peter Glaze (1917-1983), Comedian
• Len Goodman (1944-2023), English dance expert
• Ivor Gurney (1890–1937), composer and poet
• John Hall (1765-1836), founder of engineering business J & E Hall, based in Dartford
• Laura Hamilton (born 1982), TV presenter (A Place in the Sun), attended Dartford Grammar School for Girls
• Paul Hartnoll (born 1968) and Phil Hartnoll (born 1964), electronic musicians and members of the band Orbital
• Henry Havelock (1795–1857), military general
• Jimmy Havoc (born 1984), professional wrestler
• Barry Hawkins (born 1979), professional snooker player
• Terry Hollands (born 1979), Britain's Strongest Man (2007)
• Henry Ambrose Hunt (1866–1946), meteorologist
• Mick Jagger (born 1943), vocalist and songwriter, The Rolling Stones
• Diane Keen (born 1946), actress
• Sidney Keyes (1922–1943), war poet
• John Latham (1743–1837), ornithologist
• Nick Lee (born 1983), cricketer
• Phil May (born 1944), vocalist, The Pretty Things
• Patrick Mackay (born 1952), serial killer
• Matt Morgan (born 1977), comedy writer, The Original Victim
• Topsy Ojo (born 1985), London Irish and England rugby union full-back, attended Dartford Grammar School
• Min Patel (born 1970), Kent and England cricketer
• Keith Richards (born 1943), guitarist and songwriter, The Rolling Stones
• Steve Rider (born 1950), TV sports presenter
• David Russell (born 1957), golfer
• Paul Samson (1953–2002), rock guitarist
• Jeffrey Snowden (born 1973), former cricketer
• Alfred Sturge (1816–1901), pastor and missionary
• Dick Taylor (born 1943), guitarist, The Pretty Things
• Margaret Thatcher (1925–2013), Prime Minister who unsuccessfully ran to be MP of Dartford in 1950 and 1951
• Pete Tong (born 1960), house DJ
• Richard Trevithick (1771–1833), inventor and mining engineer, died in Dartford
• Mary Ann Lake Wallis (1821–1910), New Zealand orphanage matron[35]
• Andy Wilmot (born 1980), racing driver
• William James Erasmus Wilson (1809–1884), surgeon[36]

• Kent History Illustrated - Frank W Jessup (KCC, 1966)
• Railways of the Southern Region - Geoffrey Body (PSL Field Guide 1989)
• The History and Antiquities of Dartford, with Topographical Notices of the Neighbourhood (1844) - John Dunkin, Google Books

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Dartford.

• The Dartford town archive
• Dartford Town Guide
• Two maps of the area c.1800
• "Dartford" . Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 6 (9th ed.). 1878. p. 829.