Dopo (clothing)

Dopo (Korean: 도포; lit. Taoist robe) is a variety of po, or overcoat in hanbok, which was first worn in the middle of the Joseon since the 16th century.[1][2][3][4] The dopo was mostly worn by male Confucian scholars called seonbi during the Joseon period.[5][6] It was also worn by Kings and princes and government officers.[7] The dopo held a strong Confucianism value.[7] It was worn as an everyday outer garment by Neo-Confucian scholars,[8] who wore it as an official form of clothing or as a ritual clothing.[1] It was also an ordinary robe worn by the court officials.[1] Since the 1894 reform, all varieties of po with wide sleeves, including the dopo, were prohibited to be worn by King Gojong and instead people had to wear the durumagi.[9]

Dopo
A mustard-colored dopo
Korean name
Hangul
도포
Hanja
Revised Romanizationdopo
McCune–Reischauertop'o

Construction and design

The dopo is a long over-coat (po) with V-neck and wide sleeves.[1][2] It was long enough to reach the ankle of his wearer.[10][1]

The white color dopo was typically worn for ordinary use while the light blue dopo was for festive occasions.[10][8] Many other colors were also used. Dopo made of ramie was used in summer while those made out of silk and cotton were used in winter.[8]

In terms of construction, the basic form dopo was similar to the jikryeong having a straight collar.[7] It differed from the jikryeong in the shape of the mu (무, gusset).[7] The mu of the dopo was found inside or on the back region of the garment; it was running along the front region of the garment and created two flaps on the back region of the garment.[7]

Another characteristics of the dopo is its back region which is split into 2 on back center line and is fully covered by another piece of fabric called Jeonsam.[1]

The dopo worn by the commoners were different in terms of styles from those worn by the members of the royal families; for example, the dopo worn by the commoners had a straight lapels while the dopo worn by King Yeongjo had a lapel which was made through a combination of square and pointy shape.[3]

Origins
Main articles: Daopao and Zhiduo or Zhishen

It is recorded that the dopo was first worn in the middle period of the Joseon dynasty.[1] The dopo started to appear in Joseon since the 16th century according to historical records and relics.[3] According to Lee Eunjoo, the dopo was originally introduced from China but was localized in Korea through the integration of additional features.[11]

According to historical documents such as Seongho saseol (성호사설/星湖僿說), Ojuyeon munjang jeonsango (오주연문장전산고/五洲衍文長箋散稿), the garment was influenced by Buddhism. The authors claimed that dopo was originally monk's robe called, gwontu (권투/圈套) which was identical to jangsam, another monk's garment.[12][13][14] The Buddhist jangsam (장삼/長衫; lit. 'long gown') was a Buddhist robe, which was worn under the kasaya until the early Joseon, was in the form of the Chinese monastic robe called zhiduo.[15] After the Imjin wars, the Joseon system of po (robes) was adopted which allowed the dopo and the durumagi (두루마기) (also known as juui) to be used as jangsam.[15] According to Cho Geun-Hee, the name 'dopo' may have originated from China; however, the structure of the dopo was developed under the influences of other forms of traditional Korean overgarments.[16] It is suggested by the author Myoung-Hee Lee that the dopo appears to have its origins from the robe worn in Goguryeo (고구려).[1] Other authors such as Jungae Kim also suggest that it is the dopo could have originated from the jikryeong (직령/直領; coat with a straight collar) po and with which its bears similarities.[9]

Similar garments

See also

References
  1. Myoung-Hee, Lee (1977). "A Study on Dopo, Korean Man's Robe". Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. 1 (1): 15–23. ISSN 1225-1151.
  2. "도포" [Dopo]. 한국의식주생활사전 [Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture]. Archived from the original on 2020-11-16.
  3. Administration Cultural Heritage of Republic of Korea. "Full Dress Worn by King Yeongjo - Heritage Search". Cultural Heritage Administration - English Site. Retrieved 2021-06-19.
  4. Geun-hi, Cho (1988). "A Study on Dopo Dealt with its History and Folklore -in Young-dong Province Area-". Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. 12 (1): 1–11. ISSN 1225-1151.
  5. 崔莎莎、胡曉東 (February 2016). "孔府舊藏明代男子服飾結構選例分析" (pdf). 服飾導刊. 5 (1): 61–67. ISSN 2095-4131.
  6. Traditional Korean Costume by Kyŏng-ja Yi, Na-yŏng Hong, Suk-hwan Chang, Mi-ryang Yi
  7. Kim, Jeong-Ae; Lee, Sang-Eun (2016). "A Study on the Composition of Dopo (Long Robe) Found in the Tomb of Bae Cheonjo (1532) - Focusing on the Clothing Found in the Tombs of the Seongsan Bae Clan in the Joseon Dynasty -". Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association. 18 (2): 35–49. ISSN 1229-7240.
  8. Lee, Samuel Songhoon (2013). Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition. Seoul Selection. p. 59. ISBN 9781624120565. Retrieved 2 February 2021.
  9. 김정애 (2010). "조선시대 도포(道袍)의 형태변화(形態變化)에 관한 연구". ScienceON (in Korean). Retrieved 2021-05-12.
  10. "도포" [Dopo]. terms.naver.com (in Korean). Retrieved 2021-08-05.
  11. 이은주 [Lee Eunjoo] (1998). "A Study on the Origin and Structural Development of Do-po". Journal of the Korean Society of Costume. 36: 1–23. ISSN 1229-6880.
  12. 도포 (道袍) (in Korean). Empas / EncyKorea. Retrieved 2008-09-30.
  13. 도포 (道袍) (in Korean). Doosan Encyclopedia. Retrieved 2008-09-30.
  14. 도포 (道袍) (in Korean). Empas / Britannica. Retrieved 2008-09-30.
  15. "Seungbok(僧服)". Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture. Archived from the original on 2021-12-14.
  16. 조근희 [Cho Geun-Hee] (1986). "道袍에 관한 硏究" [(A) study of the dopo]. 이화여자대학교 대학원.
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