Gyaru

Shibuya 109 in 2006

Gyaru is a description of any gender, but is considered for women when referring to gyaru. Some groups and people follow a type of Japanese street fashion with many subcategories and substyles of which many types originated in the late 1970s.[27] It is a fashion subculture that is considered to be nonconformist or rebelling against Japanese social and aesthetic standards[28] at the time when women were expected to be housewives and fit Asian beauty standards of pale skin and dark hair. For Japanese women who saw those who participated in this fashion during its rise, they considered it a fashion style too racy and freewheeling; with some feeling it caused a ruckus, juvenile delinquency and frivolousness among teenage girls.[29] Its popularity peaked in the 1990s and early 2000s. They are also known for partying and clubbing, being rather provocative, being flirtatious, and unwinding and having fun.

Popular recurring gyaru models, icons and idols during its peak were Tsubasa Masuwaka, Kumiko Funayama, Rie Matsuoka, Hikari Shiina, Kaoru Watanabe, Kanae Watanabe, Hiromi Endo, Aoi Mano, Satomi Yakuwa, Sayoko Ozaki, Yuka Obara, Rina Sakurai, Nana Suzuki, and twins Gura and Guri Yoshikawa.[30] Notable, recent gyaru gyaru include Yuki Kimura, known for her magazine and online alias as Yukipoyo and model Iwamoto Sayaka, known as Usatani Paisen. In Japan they are also both known for being models for Gravure from the books they have appeared in.

Appearance

The appearance of circle lenses on the left eye

By the early 2010s gyaru fashion was typically characterized by tanned skin as it is considered a must in some substyles, they were also most often seen with highly elongated and decorated artificial nails. As for the appearance of a gyaru, dramatic makeup is also considered essential in this fashion subculture or depending on which substyle one partakes in. The makeup typically consists of black eye liner, fake eyelashes, and sometimes a white eye shadow or a touch of that color is applied to either the inner eye corners or to the outer corners near the lower lash line of the eyes. This is to make them appear larger or to contour them to elongate the eye of the sclera. In the later years of this style, with the popularity of South Korea during that time, the style would see the use of the South Korean makeup technique of increasing or creating a larger appearance of the under eye by applying makeup, such as highlighting the under eye and contouring the eye crease to make the eye bag appear prominent; this is known as Korean: 애교살; RR: aegyosal. This should not be confused with periorbital puffiness, even though both appear similar; one is a health condition while the other is done with makeup or by the use of plastic surgery such as botox. Also contouring different parts of the face to change facial features and highlighting the nose for a slimming effect is often done. Colored contacts are often seen especially circle lenses to change eye color from a distance and also to make their eyes appear larger with the extreme diameter of these lenses.

Hairstyling, such as hair texture, color or styling, often differs within the substyles. Heavily bleached or dyed hair is most often seen; shades ranged from dark brown to lighter shades of brown to multiple shades of red or multiple shades of blonde. Hair is mostly styled either by curling it with a curling iron or having straight hair done by the use of a hair straightener. Hair may be curled to create extra volume and heavily crimped up. The hair is crimped differently than in the West, this hair styling was called スジ盛り (sujimori); in English it means assorted streaks. This styling is named so, not only because of its enormous volume of hair, the usage of hair extension to achieve this look or even its use of an assortment of wigs to create this hairstyle. But this name comes from these streaks of hair that are made apparent by being held by gel. Since after the curling and crimping; the gel would be used to keep hair streaks visible and present throughout the day.

Apparel for gyaru fashion also varies by substyle and retail store; this choice of brands can denote which substyle one participates in. Japanese street fashion brands or western fast fashion brands with general gyaru aesthetics indicated one's substyle depending on their appearance in an outfit. Although some bought western luxury brands or even haute couture brands, but most gravitated toward Japanese brands, depending on their style. Most of the apparel originated from Shibuya 109. A full outfit of only designer brands is not considered completely gyaru unless one tries for a specific substyle. Yet, even those who participate in the substyle of wearing designer items have different brands, regardless of whether the brands are Western or Japanese. They would generally mix different brands to create a gyaru look.

A gyaru, probably an agejō gyaru wearing MA*RS in 2007

Gyaru is a spectrum style. Its substyles vary by apparel and gender. The style as a whole is referred to as Gyaru kei (Japanese: ギャル系); in Japanese or in romaji (gyaru kei). It consists of the most common way to name someone who is in gyaru style. As gyaru is not a singular style, it is an umbrella term for the phenomenon. The Japanese word for 系 (kei) translates to the English word "type"; meaning its usage refers to the fact that this fashion has various subcategories and sub styles that it is indeed akin to a type or system of styles, in terms of fashion.

The most common styles of gyaru are:

• アゲ嬢 Japanese pronunciation: [aꜜɡeʑoɯː] (Agejō): a style that was highly active, agejō was mostly inspired by, and its aesthetic referenced in, the magazine Koakuma Ageha. It is a foxy, ladylike, and mature style. It is generally worn by, but not exclusively by, a hostess. The intention is to be flawlessly glamorous and desirable. The agejō style emphasises the eyes, often enlarging and enhancing them with circle lenses and several sets of false eyelashes in an alluring way. The hair is always styled in an updo, resembling hime gyaru, with curls or hair that is crimped in the sujimori hair style, and sometimes includes extensions and wigs. It is common for those participating in the agejō style to simultaneously wear multiple wigs. The agejō style is similar to hime gyaru, except for being more skimpy and with the intention to be classy. Japanese fashion brands most recognized in this substyle are DaTuRa, Jesus Diamante, La Parfait, MA*RS and Princess Melody.

Shibuya 109 COCO*LULU store staff wearing amekaji style

• アメカジ Japanese pronunciation: [amʲeꜜkadʑi] (Amekaji): A style inspired by American culture; its name can be directly translated to "American casual". It is usually bright, fun, flamboyant and multi-colored. Inspired by fictionalized images of America, the clothes are generally looser than most of the other styles. They usually have many overlapping layers. It mostly involves sweaters, bomber jackets from the early 2000s and coats such as Letterman jackets. In summer they would wear t-shirts, shorts, jeans, overalls and cargo pants. Also, they would sometimes wear their boyfriends' clothing as there was a male counterpart to the brand COCO*LULU or the similar male oriented brand Buzz Spunky, which are one of their staple brands for this style. Shoes were mostly tennis shoes, sneakers, uggs or engineer boots. Japanese fashion brands most recognized in this substyle are ANAP, COCO*LULU, BLUE MOON BLUE and Wakatsuki Chinatsu.
• B-ギャル (B-gyaru):[31][32][33][34] A gyaru style,[35] consisting of not only being gyaru but also rejecting the Japanese standards of beauty to instead become black.[36] The letter B in this substyle directly refers to the word black. This style is synonymous with the gyaru store Baby Shoop. But even as a gyaru substyle it is now considered objectionable and even an appropriation of Black culture[37][38][39][40] just as rasuta gyaru and even chola gyaru. Some or most of the western gyaru participants of this fashion do not see the use of substyles such as ganguro or its other extreme substyle, that are derived from it but do have a distaste for this substyle in particular and express their distaste and anger on social networking services. This substyle has also been stated to be a joke in egg magazine and was expressing that this was not a serious style of gyaru to even gyaru participants despising other gyaru doing this style.[41]

Japanese gyaru in 2006

• ガングロ (Ganguro):[42][43][44] A gyaru with artificially deep tanned skin and bleached hair, and makeup which tended to use white around the eyes and on the lips, and darker shades of color are sometimes seen on the eyes of ganguro. But white is the most often used eyeshadow for this substyle. Also, decorations such as glitter or flowers, such as hibiscus flower stickers, are added under the eyes. This style was popular in the late 1990s and early 2000s. The name ganguro is the mix of both the Japanese words 顔 (Kao) and 黒 (Kuro), these Kanji translate to the words face and black but the term that gyaru use for this substyle is written in Katakana.
• ギャルセレブー Japanese pronunciation: [ɡʲa̠ꜜɾɯ̟ᵝseːɾʲeːbʲɯꜜ] (Gyaru serebū):[45] This substyle is referred to in English as gyaru celebrity or rather used as the shortened version of that word; in Japanese being written as セレブ (serebu). It specifically targets the concept of either being an actual celebrity in the gyaru style or to achieve that aesthetic to the point of becoming someone with celebrity status by achieving this through this substyle.
  

  Ayumi Hamasaki being photographed by paparazzi in 2007
  For most participants in this particular substyle, they could only first dream of living this substyle but have successfully achieved this feat through dedication, persistence and effort. It is probably one of the most expensive substyles to maintain if one would try to replicate it. This style at first might resemble onee gyaru but when looking not only at which apparel pieces are being used; from which these brands that are far above the average price of gyaru brands from 109. Also the general look that they would not be regarded as gyaru by passersby on the street in Japan unless the fake eyelashes were visible; due to price of apparel and confidence in their appearance by wearing these luxury items. These apparel pieces from clothes, accessories, shoes to even flip phones in order to be based on that time period are needed to achieve the celebrity appearance. Those who participated and contributed in this substyle have been others who started mostly without a celebrity status or any sort of exponential media recognition in Japan. What these gyaru tried to replicate the whole look of a celebrity during the Heisei era or 1990s and 2000s; these celebrities were generally chosen for their luxury clothing choices which was always of a 'McBling'[46][47][48] aesthetic at the time. Luxury and haute couture brands are a must; fast fashion, poorly made apparel, inauthentic luxury branded apparel to accessories or second-hand pieces do not suffice. Unless these items are from an actual luxury or haute couture brand that were authenticated but then only by that standard; otherwise new and on trend haute couture fashion is a must. These brands do not have to be Japanese-owned or Japanese-based brands; most of these brands are actually western brands such as: Juicy Couture, Baby Phat, Betsey Johnson, Von Dutch, Ed Hardy, Chanel, Moschino, Michael Kors, Versace, Fendi, Louboutin, Balenciaga, Coach, Burberry, Gucci and even Givenchy when Alexander McQueen was the head designer and the same can be said for Dior especially when John Galliano was head designer. These brands were not a staple of gyaru fashion but were seen in other substyles such as onee gyaru or kogyaru but sparsely and not of this quantity in a single outfit. Most of its inspirations came from either Japanese gyaru celebrities such as Ayumi Hamasaki, Koda Kumi, Namie Amuro, egg magazine model Hiromi Endo and more recently Emiri Aizawa or Tsubasa Masuwaka aesthetically when she is going to Gucci's fashion events. Even western celebrities had a much larger influence such as: Paris Hilton, Nicole Richie, Britney Spears, Gwen Stefani, Christina Aguilera, Pamela Anderson, Lindsay Lohan, Victoria Beckham, Fergie, Jennifer Lopez, Beyoncé, Aaliyah, Lil' Kim and Foxy Brown.[49][50]
• ギャルママ Japanese pronunciation: [ɡʲa̠ꜜɾɯ̟ᵝmʲamʲa] (Gyaru mama):[51] Teenage gyaru or women who continued with this style even after having children. BBC News states: 'Gal mama are young mothers who refuse to shed their gal-ness'.[52][53] They also would clothe their children in the same style, meaning a boy would look like a gyaru-o while girls would look like a gyaru, but the style would depend on the mother's personal choice of style or which subculture she belonged to. For example, Aki, a gyaru leader of her own gyarusa named 'Brillant Lab' reveals how these mothers dressed and how they chose their children's outfits, hair and hair color to correspond to their mother's outfit. In other words, the child became a gyaru mama's accessory. It is also telling when the leader of this gyarusa is a single mother which is generally how most of these gyaru mothers end up or are after pregnancy.[54][55] These mothers might parent differently than most in Japan; their parenting style can be quite contemporary for the Japanese societal norms, perceptions and it has been said that it is less stressful for their children.[56]

A gyaru-o in 2007

• ギャル男 Japanese pronunciation: [ɡʲa̠ꜜɾɯ̟ᵝoː] (Gyaru-o):[57] A male gyaru. Typically, gyaru-o have a similar style to gyaru, including high-volume styled hair, similar fashion, and tanned skin.[58] Also written in Japanese as ギャルオ (gyaruo); as the Kanji in front of gyaru is the Japanese word for man, 男 (otoko).

Himena Ousaki, a hime gyaru influencer, taken on May 26, 2012

• 姫ギャル Japanese pronunciation: [çmeɡʲa̠ꜜɾɯ̟ᵝ] (Hime gyaru):[59] also known as 姫系 (hime kei), is one of the more over the top and one of the most expensive styles of dress of any category since it is considered essential to buy brand names such as: MA*RS, Jesus Diamante, La Parfait or Princess Melody. The substyle hime gyaru is largely based on the Rococo era, as the Japanese word 姫 (hime) which in English is the word for lit. 'princess'. Gyaru who wear this style often wear dresses or skirts in pink or other pastel colors with many laces and bows. Rose patterns, rosettes, pearls, and crown motifs are also common. Headpieces range from large bow clips with pearls to headbands with a rose accent, while the hair is either bleached in a specific color, crimped in a bouffant at the top and curled or wigs/extension are worn to create that スジ盛り or (sujimori)-styled hair. This make-up style has even more exaggerated eyes than the typical gyaru. Hime gyaru includes not only clothes, but many girls see it as a way of life and make or buy custom-made decor for their homes. The style blossomed in the early 2000s but has since declined or turned more casual; this version is referred to as hime kaji, but this style mostly uses the Japanese fashion brand Liz Lisa whose appearance and clothes are more casual than hime gyaru. Hime gyaru participants rather use the obsolete brands such as Princess Melody, La Parfait or Jesus Diamante. Though this substyle currently persists in some fashion groups or in their circles. Not to be confused with Japanese street fashion of Lolita fashion.
• 姫カジ (Hime kaji): The toned down version of the hime gyaru style. As stated above, it is referred as hime kaji due to being not only a toned down version of this pre-existing style but the Japanese term カジ (kaji) is a shortened version of the word "casual" in Japanese Katakana. There is an obvious focus on comfort, cuteness and being effortless. This is why this style and roma gyaru are most often lumped and mistaken together. Even today they are confused with the fashion of Cottagecore. The hair styles often resemble roma gyarus in the sense of them having curled hair which can be long or short. The hair would be often worn down and the color would mostly be from completely bleached blonde to lighter shades of brown. Clothingwise, this style would be on the more comfortable end of the gyaru spectrum but still remaining as flattering as gyaru could be. Common motifs are roses and hearts and patterns that are most often seen are ginghams, florals and plaid. Colors most often used would be pink and most outfits which were or are using this style would always feature something in a pink shade. As for the relation with hime gyaru there are fewer accessories present than that style and nails are still somewhat long but not as ostentatiously decorated as hime gyaru. But if they were, they would not be as excessive as hime gyaru. The style now is most ubiquitous with the use of the fashion brand Liz Lisa; rather than any other brand which had the similar feel such as Ank Rouge, TraLaLa or Titty&Co.

Loose socks

• 女子高校ギャル (Joshi kōkō gyaru):[60] Joshi kōkō gyaru, also known as high school gyaru, are best known as the previous iteration of kogyaru.
• コギャル (Kogyaru):[61][62][63] The term generally defines presentday gyarus who dress in this manner; they wear Japanese high-school student uniforms to represent the past kogyaru who wore them. These uniforms would resemble them but with slight alterations such as color or presentation of the garment. Or they would be an exact replica of an actual high school uniform which could be purchased at a burusera. But the term itself did not first start as a pass time to pretend or dress as a high school student but from actual female Japanese high school students in the late 1980s and early 1990s, around the Heisei era; they wore this style during or after school sessions.[64][65] They would shorten their skirts from their high school uniform protocol length to give them a miniskirt appearance and length and wear loose socks. These socks are from an American brand, E.G. Smith, the originators of these socks.[66][67] That made them longer and appear larger by loosening them to the point of almost arriving at the level of their shoes. They also had dyed hair, accessorized their high school bags with danglers or mixed educational material with cosmetic products and a portable mirror. Although some of these were prohibited in Japanese high schools, some would wear it only after school but others would do it even in school and be warned for doing so. Namie Amuro is said to be not only the one who popularized the tanned appearance, but also as having started the kogyaru trend during the Heisei era.[68][69] The term kogyaru is derived from the mixing of the Japanese word 子 (ko) which means child in English and the word gyaru[70][71] It is noteworthy that due to the Japanese educational system's regulations on uniforms, the uniforms varied by school, indicating higher standards in terms of grades or wealth. This mattered in kogyaru fashion.[72] The term of kogyaru is closely related to 女子高校生 (joshi kōkōsei) or in English would be directly translated to "female high school student". It uses the word 女子 (joshi) which is girl and 高校生 (kōkōsei) highschooler in English. The importance of these two words is that often on social network services Kanji would be abbreviated to "JK" because the first letters used in these Kanji are the letters J and K. In this case, these letters combined are not used to convey or be internet speech to refer to joking but is a direct abbreviation for the word joshi kōkōsei. This subculture of kogyaru fashion is closely related to JK business and compensated dating or enjo kōsai.[73][74]

A kogyaru in 2013

• 黒ギャル (Kuro gyaru): Kuro gyaru is the extreme exaggeration of gyaru fashion. The Black Diamond gyarusa or ブラック ダイヤモンド are known for having this style. The words kuro are made together by the numbers just as shiro gyaru being 46 as these make kyu roku as in 96. In Japanese being 九 六.
• マンバ (Manba):[75] Manba is even darker than yamanba, but also wilder than yamanba. Manba would wear sexy outfits from very short to very long dresses, or shorts to long skirts. Accessories (such as bangles, beads, etc.) would also include the motif of flowers such as leis or hibiscus, and these patterns would appear on their clothes. Colorful clothing was considered essential. They would sometimes wear sweatshirts, pants, and leg warmers. Disney characters made an appearance as a choice of fashion apparel such as characters from Lilo & Stitch and also characters from the Mickey Mouse franchise. The white lips remained and white eye shadows were applied. A manbas eye shadow can also be placed on a different place around the eyes. The amount of eye shadow could vary greatly. Some manbas also used a different eye shadow color on their eyelids. The use of glitter was acceptable as well. Stickers were no longer used under the eyes, instead, they were replaced by rhinestones (however they did not necessarily put them on). Common hairstyles featured big hair, bouffant, high ponytails with hair partly down, synthetic dreads, ribbons braided in, teased, side swept, fringe, braids, curled, simply straight, or very colorful. Popular hair accessories included leis and other types of flowers/bows, straw cowboy hats, or straw hats. Flip flops, sandals, platform sandals, slippers, crocs, boots or leg warmers could also be worn.

Two manbas in 2006

• お姉ギャル (Onee gyaru): The name of this substyle refers to the older sister of gyaru as a substyle derives from Japanese word that is used to describe an older sister. お姉 (onee); translating only its beginning will give an exact translation of these two words for lit. 'sister' in English. The substyle is named after its participants, who are usually older gyaru or have matured from their style but still want to remain a gyaru. They have adapted their previous style to their age, from their more alluring appearance to the apparel they wear day to day; they are referred are the mature substyle of gyaru.
• 悪羅悪羅ギャル (Ora ora gyaru):[76][77] The style of ora ora gyaru is one that is most often compared to or confused with ane gyaru due to the fact that both styles were brought to the Japanese public's eye attention through the bōsōzoku, yankī and Japanese biker gang culture with gyaru makeup and style. The gyaru magazine of choice is Soul Sister. This style can be understood by its style choice of apparel, such as track suits, greater use of denim and a generally more masculine look. The style is also known as オラオラギャル (ora ora gyaru) and 悪羅系 (ora kei). These girls were often seen driving as a couple, were or are mechanics, and sometimes ride bikes. They tend to have tattoos and piercings. This is not only done to look rebellious but the style caters to girls who live on the edge.
• ロマギャル (Roma gyaru): Roma gyaru come from two words: romantic and gyaru. The aesthetic is commonly mistaken for Cottagecore due to its use of colors, patterns and motifs. It has many similarities today in the style hime kaji but instead is considered a style of its own. The colors are more subtle and muted, patterns range from floral to gingham and sometimes polka dots. The style is considered one of the more relaxed and accessible styles of gyaru. It is also one of the more 'casual' gyaru substyles of this fashion. The style consisted of having hair color ranging from darker browns to strawberry blonde tones. The hair was often curled, wispy or had fly away hairs but retained the constrained gyaru hairstyles or was simply worn down but slightly curled at the ends. The makeup is considered too simple for the most experienced gyaru; it is less likely to use overtly longer nails or false lashes. As mentioned earlier, the nails are a plain color that matches the clothing worn or are French manicured. Motifs included fruit, mostly strawberries, cherries or when going towards a different primary color such as blue, blueberries. Textile prints are mostly ginghams, polka dots, florals and sometimes plaids. Other fabrics include lace on some apparel pieces but less prevalent than in the hime gyaru style. In terms of accessories boots with heels which are mostly knee-high length, are most often seen and worn in this style.
• 白ギャル (Shiro gyaru): This substyle is not what it appears to those unfamiliar with gyaru. Only thinking that gyaru is depicted by the ganguro substyle and its subcategories, mistakenly assuming that all participants have tanned skin is gyaru. Shiro gyaru is an example of this: one who would participate gyaru would not tan their skin and would most likely try to achieve a clear complexion to return to the Japanese tradition and standard look of bihaku. Using the Japanese Kanji 白 written in romaji as (shiro) and is the English word for lit. 'white'. This gyaru substyle is generally a way to denote participants of the gyaru substyle who do not sport a tan. They still usually wear a number of different substyles. This substyle was most often seen in the early 2010s. Mostly sweeter styles and punkish styles of appareal and gyaru fashion substyles would be seen with this skintone. This was problematic for previous participants in gyaru substyles such as ganguro who already have or had artificially tanned skin: they resorted to bleaching their skin to achieve this look. Tanning and bleaching the skin are dangerous.[78] The word for shiro is also abbreviated to the numbers 46, as in four for shi as in 四 and six for 六 roku, making for the sound shi ro.
• ツヨメギャル (Tsuyome gyaru): Tsuyome gyaru or 強めギャル is a form of gyaru derived from another form of gyaru such as ane gyaru ora ora gyaru and kuro gyaru. The term comes from the word strength in Japanese, 強 because this style is based on this term and has a masculine empowering look and less feminine appeal towards men.
• ヤマンバ (Yamanba):[79] An exaggerated style characterized by an extremely dark artificial tan, messy bleached-white hair, and white makeup. Yamanba is said to be inspired by the Japanese yōkai Yama-uba (山姥) lit. 'mountain witch woman', an unkempt old woman with dark skin, white hair, and a dirty, unkempt appearance, who would disguise herself as a beautiful young woman to lure male victims. Like ganguro, the style was often considered to be a joke and deliberately unattractive, with some yamanba saying they liked the trend "because it looked stupid."[80] Yamanba fashion attracted a reputation as being "unclean" or delinquent.[81]

A yamanba in 2016

Micro styles of gyaru are styles which are less common, have declined in popularity or have become obsolete.

• 姉ギャル (Ane gyaru): Ane gyaru is a tougher version of onee gyaru, and is more mature and virile, yet effeminate for the gyaru subculture.
• バンバ (Banba): Banba is a lighter form of manba. They wear less white makeup than manba, use more feminine and glittery makeup and have less colorful hair, but neon-colored hair can be seen at times. Banbas wear extreme types of false eyelashes and use more dolly-colored contact lenses. Banba's also often wear darker colors than manbas and dress in club wear or feminine outfits. They are toned down compared to their predecessors ganguro, manba and yamanba but are still connected to those styles.
• ビビンバ (Bibinba): This look usually includes much gold and jewelry. It is similar to B-gyaru. As stated above, egg magazine did not consider this a serious style or even a style at all, but more of a joke. This might be the case since the name of this substyle might refer to the Italian word 'bimbo', which is derogatorily applied to women in English.
• ボヘミアンギャル (Bohemian gyaru): A gyaru substyle which is rarely worn and is considered less of an actual style and more of a seasonal outfit for those who participate in broader gyaru fashion. It is less of a substyle restrained by rules, being mostly worn in the spring and summer seasons or for those that live in warmer climates. Since the clothing pieces are of a lighter textile, only a jacket is used for layering, and woven leather accessories such as a belt and shoes are more often seen than in other styles. Sandals are often used in this style. Unlike most of the other substyles which use more apparel that easily hold warmth, such as apparel with thicker textile or woollen materials and multiple layers of clothes for one outfit, this style is also denoted by its use of airy, denim, flower-patterned, tie-dyed and nomadic textile motifs in most of its outfits. Most apparel pieces are either maxi-dresses or knee-length dresses. The style seems inspired by late 1960s hippie fashion and takes its name from the Bohemian style of fashion.
• チョーラギャル (Chola gyaru): Just as the styles of B-gyaru, rasuta gyaru, bibinba and even ganguro are or can be somewhat frowned upon by most people who have the actual respective origin of these styles or those who suffered through what these styles can represent to the actual person of that ethnicity; such as rasuta gyaru being so heavily influenced by the appearance of Rastafari; the question remains, is it appropriation or appreciation of another countries culture? For chola-gyaru the same can be said for its substyle, as this comes from the Chicano culture that even in its own history has connotations of its own; the book Comentarios Reales de los Incas has a quote that describes, evokes, shows how the actual word came to be and how it was utilized then in 1609: 'The child of a Black male and an Indian female, or of an Indian male and Black female, they call mullato and mullata. The children of these they call cholos. Cholo is a word from the Windward Islands. It means dog, not of the purebred variety, but of very disreputable origin; and the Spaniards use it for insult and vituperation.'[82][83] The style itself takes enormous influence from Chicano as many chola-gyaru wear apparel clothes that are more often than not the same as Chicano apparel or street wear. A combination of tartans, flannels, oversized t-shirts and tank tops. Accessorized with bandanas, a baseball cap, dark sunglasses, gold chains and even tattoos; which still in present-day Japan is still considered a taboo due to its past connotations. Baggy jeans are a must. There is also a Japanese music artist who exemplifies both gyaru and Chicana culture, MoNa.[84][85] She has been interviewed and documented in the series from Refinery29: Style out there and also by The New York Times YouTube channel.[86][87]
• ギャル電 (Gyaru den): a style of gyaru consisting of reviving gyaru through technology. It takes aspects of the gyaru fashion substyle and then makes use of technology as a way to revamp the style. The creators of this style have created all of their items themselves, which can be LED lights or synthesizers which are used on accessories such as necklaces, loose socks which are those mostly seen on kogyarus. They would create new and different apparel pieces from the regular gyaru clothing pieces since they are mixed with technological enhancements. The creators of this fashion substyle are both Kyoko from Japan and Mao from Thailand, who immigrated to Japan, and has a degree in engineering.[88][89]
• ゴシックギャル (Goshikku gyaru): This substyle in gyaru is most often confused with the substyle rokku gyaru, as they share a similar look and use the same apparel style or motifs at first glance. However, goshikku gyaru draws from Gothic fashion as its main inspiration. This substyle does not require the participant to tan themselves, unlike most of the other gyaru substyles. The makeup retains the same over exaggerated and dramatic false eyelash appearance but the makeup colors are more in line with Gothic fashion, as the colors are darker or even black, and white is more predominant than in the other substyles. The fashion motifs and pieces are generally studded, leather, ripped denim, mesh or fishnet apparel pieces with the most prominent apparel colors being black, white, red, purple and any color used in actual Gothic fashion.
• ハーディギャル (Haady gyaru):[90] To understand the substyle haady gyaru, one must first understand its name's origin. The Japanese word 派手 or written in romaji as (hade) which in English can translate to either "flashy" or "vulgar". This substyle is the epitome of this: by its name alone this can be understood. The difference of spelling is simply for youth factor, by accentuating the vowels and adding the letter 'Y' to also not be too obvious about it. Examples of this gyaru fashion substyle resemble the work of artist Lisa Frank due to their use of motifs and color, with bright neon colors from across the entire spectrum. Leopard, cheetah, zebra or anything in printed patterns to early 1990s to 2000s hip hop-inspired fashion such has 'McBling'.[91] Clothing shape varies from very loose fitting to tight but the colors are never toned down. In terms of makeup, this gyaru substyle and the substyles that range from ganguro to further are the only ones with the use of more pop in terms of color while most gyaru substyles use either muted to seemingly girly colors. Most of these would be pastel colors, such as pastel pink. Creation of this gyaru substyle has been credited to the egg model Kaoru Watanabe as she not only created it but also has her own brand of this fashion, JSG, the acronym for Japanese Super Girl.
• 異色肌ギャル (Ishoku hada gyaru):[92][93] Is a gyaru style that takes ganguro to an even higher level than manba or yamanba. Instead of someone making their skin twice as dark as their actual skin color, it involves the use of face paint to seem as if the participant had physically dipped themselves in a colorful paint, to resemble an extraterrestrial, but with the same essential style of gyaru makeup. This micro-style can be seemingly placed as a form of body art. The translation of this substyle is unique skin gyaru in English. The creator of this style, Miyako Akane states in an Arte interview:[94] 'I decided to create this style since the fact that westerns have different hair and skin colors compared to the stereotypical Japanese features of pale clear skin and black hair, so when we want to do this we have to do something drastic. So, by changing our skin color or painting it we get to liberate ourselves; it is like a therapy from makeup, we are allowed to choose our hair color and skin color'. She also states that 'There are many mixed marriage children that are subject to a number of prejudices because of their skin color or their hair color; that is why I want to help by saying loud and strong that everyone is allowed to be whom they want to be.' She also stated in an online interview[95] that: 'I decided to create this style based upon by many things apart from gyaru, but also Harajuku fashion and of course the idea of extraterrestrials; of course it is かわいいギャル (kawaii gyaru).' In a Kotaku interview[96] she stated that she has 'longed for the interesting skin tones seen in video-games, anime, and movies'. This gyaru substyle has been promoted in egg magazine.
• キグルミン (Kigurumin): Kigurumin is a micro-style of gyaru or rather it is derived from the manba substyle. These gyaru wear the kigurumi outfits as apparel or the mascot apparel of Japan but still apply and wear the same makeup and have tanned skin as the participants of manba. The name could also be seen as 着ぐるみギャル (ki-gurumi gyaru).
• モードギャル (Mode gyaru): Mode gyaru is the use of gyaru that tries to look seductive with less expansive materials.
• ラスタギャル (Rasuta gyaru): Rasuta gyaru is separate from B-gyaru and bibinba but it is considered similar due to the heavy influence of African culture. Especially rasuta gyaru would most often take influence of Rastafari culture; even though it would mostly mimic the appearance of a Rastafari, which effectively results in imitation rather than culture appreciation. Rasuta gyaru is most often characterized by its use of the Jamaican flag as an accessory, leisure wear to sport clothing sporting a Cannabis plant symbol or Rastafari colors, handbags made of straw or anything that would resemble with the idea of what Rastafari would wear. Colors would be predominantly green, yellow and red as in the Jamaican Rastafari flag. The hair resembles B-gyarus; meaning going from extensions to cornrows, micro-braids except dreadlocks, an afro and dreads would rarely appear in the B-gyarus hair choices. Both styles futilely attempt to replicate these hairstyles. Also B-gyarus rarely wear a Cannabis symbol in their accessories. The recurring colors of the Jamaican Rastafari flag would also be often seen in the hair of rasuta gyaru as well. Bob Marley provokes interest in this crowd.
• ロックギャル (Rokku gyaru): Rokku gyaru is the punk version of gyaru but without the opposition to fascism as in punk.
• ロマンバ (Romanba):[97] The name of romanba derives from the same as roma gyaru; both are based around romantic overtones and aesthetics, but romanba keeps the manba makeup, the deep tan, style and aesthetic to a great effect, adding a romantic aspect to their apparel. Their choice of apparel pieces vary and manba, as they would replace the colors worn with dolly pastels, pink lace and sundresses that are frilled. Romanba gyarus instead of accessorizing with Lilo & Stitch, they instead accessorise mostly with characters from Disney's The Aristocats with the character Marie often used as a motif. The primary Romanba fashion brands are Pinky Girls and Liz Lisa. Tanning is achieved mainly through make-up and deep-colored tanning lotions or bronzer; sunbeds are not used in as they try to keep their complexion deep but not darker than intended. They appreciate more toned down things in life than just clubbing.
• サイケギャル (Saike gyaru): Saike gyaru or psychedelic gyaru; it is a fashion substyle of gyaru meant to emulate Bohemian style fashion and 60s hippie fashion but without implementation of the peace movement of the hippies during the 1960s in the United States of America during the Vietnam war.

Shibuya 109, Rady store front

• キャバ嬢 (Kyabajō):[98][99] The style kyabajō is similar to agejo as it has been inspired since the publication of koakuma ageha, which enticed and engrossed women to work in Kabukichō as a hostess or a kyabajō. They dress in a particular style that makes them mostly wear dresses that are revealing but said to be less, from the Japanese brand MA*RS or from the Jesus Diamante. As stated before, this style resembles agejo as the participants have the same attire and also have long fake decorative nails. An exponent is a gyaru now known by her title 元No.1キャバ嬢 (Moto nanbā 1 kyabajō) or Former No.1 Miss kyabajō; Emiri Aizawa (愛沢えみり).[100][101][102][103][104]
• 孫ギャル (Mago gyaru): Mago gyaru is used to define middle schoolers who follow gyaru or kogyaru fashion. The phrase literally translates to "grandchild gyaru".[105] It is sometimes referred to as 中学校ギャル (chūgakkō gyaru, lit. 'junior high school gyaru').[106]
• ネオギャル (Neo gyaru):[107][108][109][110][111][112] This name was coined for gyaru who wanted to revitalize the style during the 2010s during its decline. By the time the style reached popularity and people had noticed its existence, the community of gyaru reacted to it differently than expected; what came was an antiquated, radical and older or more fanatical gyaru accustomed to seeing gyaru in a different ideal and some have even shunned the style. This reaction can also be connected with the creator of the style and magazine for this substyle neo gyaru being the known as #N. This substyle and magazine have received backlash due to use of black, Latino and Hindu culture and culturally exclusive accessories such as the Bindi.[113] Yet Alisa Ueno herself has stated in an interview on her own blog that herself, her own brand FIG&VIPER and the style she is representing within that brand have nothing to do with the gyaru subculture or fashion as a whole and the style was a probable misconception from magazines and Japanese television programs implying that it was.[114][115] Even though she participated in the gyaru subculture when she was young, as a model, she has stated in her own blog, 'The fashion has nothing to do with her brand.'[116] But those who were wearing said fashion were not using the same fashion style as before or in its traditional form as a substyle; from its apparel to their makeup. Previous, older and newcomers to the gyaru fashion substyle perceived it as not following the traditional gyaru look or values of the gyaru subculture. To them it seemed more western or even resembling grunge wear[117] even though the style may resemble SeaPunk more than the actual grunge fashion it is said to resemble. The makeup was also considerably darker in terms of lipstick and the eyeshadow using more metallic or holographic textures and colors compared to earlier styles of gyaru and their use of makeup which did not use these textures.
• 清楚ギャル (Seiso gyaru):[118][119] This substyle was coined during the decline of gyaru subculture and new gyaru looks during the 2010s. The naming of this substyle derives from the Japanese word 清楚 (seiso) which in English can be translated as 'neat', 'polished' and 'clean'. This style is also interchangeable with shiro gyaru as they were both formed through the resurgence of the Japanese bihaku within the gyaru subculture.

Often referred to as foreign gyaru or western gyaru and online as 外人ギャル (gaijin gyaru). Women and even men outside Japan who participate in gyaru; "western" gyaru also includes countries outside of the West, such as the Middle East. This includes women who have gravitated towards this fashion by going or doing gyaru and its substyles and men who gravitate to gyaru-o. Western gyaru or gaijin gyaru created their own communities or groups and forums. They also had lists of tutorials or YouTube playlists to help beginners to gyaru with their application of makeup and how to create the appropriate hairstyles. Gyaru became popular outside of Japan due to the help of bookstores selling gyaru magazines in western countries and social media networks also helped it expand abroad.

That is not to say that during its popularity online in the past and even now that there is only positivity within its community.

Outside of Japan, there are websites critical of western gyaru participants. These websites ridicule people's looks or appearance by giving them advice on how to better wear the style. A documentary has been made on YouTube, about three different Japanese street fashion styles and three participants and the negative reactions they received.[120] Even so, in 2011, these western or gaijin gyaru held their first event, the Gaijin Gyaru Awards which was created by an English gaijin gyaru with the online username Lhouraii Li. It was done to spread awareness of this style and to bring positivity back into the western gaijin gyaru community.[121][122] These events were done with Lhouraii Li and they were mostly done online. They were ended in 2014 by the creator of the event, Lhouraii Li, due to online backlash against her online award show. There would not be another contest until 2016 where they were made into an event in the Netherlands and were broadcast via livestream.[123] Three years would pass until this community award ceremony would be brought back in 2019 in the United Kingdom,[124] just as in 2016 this was an in-person event and was only made into a live broadcast online for those not able to join the event. These contests were made so that one could vote for contestants within categories or subcategories of this fashion and gain Internet attention from peers by winning within a category.

During the early 2000s, most anime conventions saw a glorification of gyaru and gaijin gyaru presence as they held gatherings, meetings or events usually organized by their gyarusā and peers in these conventions in their country or where the actual gathering would be held. International and national meetings among members of the gaijin gyaru community were held on an almost annual basis.[125][126]

As of late 2018 to early 2019 there was an increase in activity for the gaijin gyaru community caused by the comeback of egg magazine as well as a resurgence of gyaru in Japan.[127] This has affected the gaijin gyaru community as well, as a new gaijin gyaru magazine, "Papillon", was published beginning in October 2019.[128] The foreign magazine Gyaru-go also made a comeback.

In 2021, the gaijin gyaru magazine 'GAL VIP' had an article written about their magazines by a Japanese website; it is the oldest gaijin gyaru magazines addressed and not the latest.[129] Also in August 2021 a six-minute documentary on western gyaru or gaijin gyaru has discussed the substyle of manba on YouTube.

Exhibit at Edo Tokyo Museum on December 3, 2021

Japanese television have a had an enormous amount of gyaru-based content during the Heisei era. These television programs could center on gyaru and even commercials employed gyarus. Some of these shows were made by gyaru for gyaru to boost their popularity and morale as a Japanese fashion style and to do the same for the featured models. They also popularized the magazines or the stores in Shibuya 109 that appeared in these programs since they were either the producers or had a contract with the producers.

There were often single segments about gyaru within programs. One of the earliest being about ganguro and their love for tropical clothing and a new type of thigh-high socks that looked like bell-bottoms that had at the time been released in Shibuya 109.[383] The show GAL-TEN, created by gyaru for gyaru, was produced by egg magazine and broadcast by TBS Television in the 2010s.[384][385] Other television segments used gyaru or gyaru models to promote the show and the models themselves; such as this segment promoting koakuma ageha model Rina Sakurai.[386] Another example of television segments about gyaru were those about make-up application, such as the big eye trend of the early 2010s called デカ目メイク dekame meiku, said to make one's eyes resemble a child's.[387] There was also a television segment on parapara competitions with gyaru and even nationwide ganguro who were all from a certain gyarusā from the Kantō region of Tokyo all the way to Osaka.[388] Another television segment regarded three joshi kōkō gyaru and their way of making money by being sugar babies by using older men with the older Internet system of Japan for enjo kōsai. While doing so, one of the participants told of having made 200,000 yen and when adjusting for inflation made about 1,400 dollars with three dates in one day.[389]

Shows that were relevant to the actual lifestyle or subculture of gyaru during the Heisei era included television specials about the gyarusā or gyarus in general. For example, the gyarusā Angeleek had its own episode on Japanese television, fully dedicated to their events, general outings with each-other and how they helped a younger generation participate in or join their group to continue its legacy.[390] Western gyaru have also appeared on Japanese television: the Spanish gyarusā Hysterical appeared twice, both in Spain and while visiting Japan.[391][392] The American gyarusā Diamond Gal appeared in a segment on a Nippon TV program.[393] This segment was created with an exaggerated situation and staged moments to provide more drama. Western gyaru have appeared on Japanese television since 2013, with a whole segment of a Japanese variety broadcast dedicated to various western gyaru who were either in Japan at the time or abroad.[394] Others that reflected and tried to capture the daily lifestyle of gyaru on Japanese television were the Japanese FashionTV segments known as "Tokyo Girls".[395][396][397] The first episode of this series filmed a day in a shop-staff one spo daily custom. The only proof of this episode existing since FashionTV's deletion of these episodes is a tumblr with gifs of this episode.[398] On the same tumblr there is also proof in gif of the episode of the shop staff Miauler Mew being followed for that episode.[399]

South Korean comedian Korean: 박성호; RR: Park Seong-ho depicted a gyaru or kogyaru in 2012 for the KBS Entertainment Awards which was shown on KBS2, a sketch-comedy show called Gag Concert. In the character of Korean: 갸루상; RR: Gyaru Sang, he depicted someone so self-absorbed that she barely takes notice of those speaking directly to her and is portrayed as an idiot. But in an interview, Park Seong-ho admitted having little understanding of the gyaru phenomenon.[400]

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Gyaru.

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