Hugo Ayaviri

Hugo Ayaviri
Hugo Ayaviri
Born	December 21, 1978; La Paz, Bolivia
Occupation(s)	Mountain climber and guide

Hugo Ayaviri (born December 21, 1978 in La Paz) is a Bolivian mountain climber and guide. In 2021, he became the first Bolivian to summit Broad Peak and K2 without oxygen in ten days.[1] After climbing Ñanga Parbat in early July 2023, he reached the peak of Gasherbrum II without oxygen on July 19, 2023.[2]

Biography

Ayaviri began instructing high-mountain rescue in 2008. The following year, he graduated as a high-mountain guide under the auspices of the Unión Internacional de Asociaciones de Guías de Montaña. In 2015, he was the general secretary of the Association of Mountain and Trekking Guides of Bolivia and the technical director of Socorro Andino Boliviano.

Ascents

Ayaviri has specialized in rock and mountain ascents, climbing many of Bolivia's Cordillera Real and Cordillera Occidental ranges:

2008 Aconcagua
2011 Alpamayo and Huascaran
2013 Nevado Ojos del Salado, Cotopaxi, Cayambe, Iliniza Sur and Chimborazo
2014 Nevado Pan de Azúcar, El Cóncavo and Ritacuwa Blanco
2015 Opened the southern face of Illimani
2016 Climbed Illampu and Illimani, opening a new route in the Tail of the Condor
2017 Socompa
2018 Llullaillaco, Quewar and Mont Blanc
2019 Wakana, Alto Toroni
2020 Llullaillaco, WaraWarani (central peak), Ventanani, Mullu Apacheta, Janqu Laya, Acotango and Capurata
2021 Broad Peak and K2
2023 Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I

In 2021, together with Belgian climber Niels Jespers,[3][4] he summited Broad Peak on July 18, followed by K2 on July 28, without oxygen in ten days; at the time, only eight persons had accomplished this feat without oxygen.[1][5][6]

References

Fernández, Isaac (July 30, 2021). "Niels Jespers y Hugo Ayaviri coronan Broad Peak y K2 sin oxígeno en diez días". Desnivel (in Spanish). Archived from the original on June 8, 2023. Retrieved July 19, 2023.
"Ayaviri conquista su cuarta montaña: el Gasherbrum II" (in Spanish). July 19, 2023. Archived from the original on July 22, 2023. Retrieved July 19, 2023.
"Niels Jespers on his No-O2 Climbs of K2 and Broad Peak » Explorersweb". August 6, 2021. Archived from the original on September 22, 2022. Retrieved September 22, 2022.
"Vídeo-documental: Niels Jesper, K2 y Broad Peak sin oxígeno en 10 días". Barrabes.com (in Spanish). Archived from the original on September 22, 2022. Retrieved September 22, 2022.
"Ayaviri es el primer boliviano en conquistar el K2". El Diario - Bolivia (in Spanish). July 29, 2021. Archived from the original on September 22, 2022. Retrieved September 22, 2022.
"Alcaldía reconoce a escalador Hugo Ayaviri por conquistar dos montañas en Asia". Agencia Municipal de Noticias (in Spanish). August 25, 2021. Archived from the original on September 22, 2022. Retrieved September 22, 2022.

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[:0-1] Fernández, Isaac (July 30, 2021). "Niels Jespers y Hugo Ayaviri coronan Broad Peak y K2 sin oxígeno en diez días". Desnivel (in Spanish). Archived from the original on June 8, 2023. Retrieved July 19, 2023.

[2] "Ayaviri conquista su cuarta montaña: el Gasherbrum II" (in Spanish). July 19, 2023. Archived from the original on July 22, 2023. Retrieved July 19, 2023.

[3] "Niels Jespers on his No-O2 Climbs of K2 and Broad Peak » Explorersweb". August 6, 2021. Archived from the original on September 22, 2022. Retrieved September 22, 2022.

[4] "Vídeo-documental: Niels Jesper, K2 y Broad Peak sin oxígeno en 10 días". Barrabes.com (in Spanish). Archived from the original on September 22, 2022. Retrieved September 22, 2022.

[5] "Ayaviri es el primer boliviano en conquistar el K2". El Diario - Bolivia (in Spanish). July 29, 2021. Archived from the original on September 22, 2022. Retrieved September 22, 2022.

[6] "Alcaldía reconoce a escalador Hugo Ayaviri por conquistar dos montañas en Asia". Agencia Municipal de Noticias (in Spanish). August 25, 2021. Archived from the original on September 22, 2022. Retrieved September 22, 2022.