Tinkar

Tinkar is a village in the Byans Rural Municipality of Darchula District in the Sudurpashchim province of Nepal. It is named after the Tinkar Khola river, a tributary of the Mahakali River, which it joins near the village of Chhangru.

Tinkar
village
Tinkar is located in Sudurpashchim Province
Tinkar
Tinkar
Tinkar is located in Nepal
Tinkar
Tinkar
Tinkar (Nepal)
Coordinates: 30.1355°N 80.9848°E / 30.1355; 80.9848
ProvinceSudurpashchim
DistrictDarchula
Rural MunicipalityByas
Highest elevation
[1]
5,258 m (17,251 ft)
Lowest elevation
[2]
3,650 m (11,980 ft)
Time zoneUTC+5:45

At the top of the Tinkar valley near the Tibet border is the Tinkar Pass (5,258 m), which provides a trading route for the Byansis of the region for the Tibetan trading centre Burang.[3][4][5] However, the Tinkaris are said to prefer the Lipulekh Pass across the border in Indian territory due to its higher volume.[6] Nepal has ongoing claims to the Lipulekh Pass, as part of the Kalapani territory.

Geography
🌍

Tinkar is in the far-western region of Nepal, in the province of Sudurpashchim Province at the high end of the Great Himalayan range, elevation 3,650 metres (11,980 ft). It is the principal village in the valley of the Tinkar River (Tinkar Khola), which is a tributary of the Mahakali River (or Kali River and Sarda River). Mahakali serves as the western boundary of Nepal with India, beyond which lies the Indian region of Kumaon (part of the Uttarakhand state).

Along the Tinkar Valley, closer to the border, is another large village called Chhangru (or Changru). Tinkar (80 households) and Chhangru (100 households) are populated by Byansi people, who speak a West Himalayish language called Byangsi. The region across the border in Kumaon is also populated by Byansi people, with whom the Byansis of the Tinkar Valley have cultural and historical links. A third village called Ghaga, at the confluence of Tinkar and Nampa rivers, is populated by other classes of people.[7]

Upstream along one of the headwaters of the Tinkar Khola is the Tinkar Pass (or "Tinkar Lipu"[8]) at the top of the Great Himalayan range, which provides a historical trading route for the Byansis to the Tibetan town of Burang. This pass is however insignificant for the overall economy of Nepal because the far-western region is cut off from the rest of the country by "high impassable mountains and glaciers".[9] Manzard et al. state that the Tinkar Byansis also used to use the Lipulekh Pass because the Tinkar Pass is quite difficult to traverse.[7]

While the general border runs along the Mahakali River, in the upper headwaters above the Kalapani village, it is the watershed of the streams that flow into the river. This was a decision made by the British Indian government in the 19th century.[10][11] Two significant peaks, P. 6172 and Om Parvat (5590 m), lie on this watershed range, which are popular trekking destinations.[3][5] Nepal has ongoing claims to the territory beyond the watershed, up to the main headwater stream, which is termed the Kalapani territory.[12][13]

History

According to the Himalayan Gazetteer, the entire Byans region to the south as well as north of the Mahakali River used to be part of Kumaon.[14] After the unification of Nepal in the 18th century, Nepal expanded northwest and conquered the kingdoms of Kumaon as well as Garhwal. The expansion lasted till 1815. In that year, the Anglo-Nepalese War saw the British general Ochterlony evict the Nepalese from Garhwal and Kumaon across the Mahakali River.[15][16] After agreeing the Treaty of Sugauli, which made a territorial settlement along the Mahakali River, the Nepalese appealed to the British governor general that they were entitled to the areas to the east (here, southeast) of the Mahakali River. The British conceded the demand, and the Tinkar Valley with its large villages of Chhangru and Tinkar was transferred to Nepal. The British, however, retained the areas to the northwest of the Mahakali River, including the Kuthi Valley and the Kalapani territory near the headwaters of the Mahakali. Thus the "parganah [of] Byans" got divided across the two countries.[17][18]

Since the British operated an open border with Nepal, allowing free movement of people across it, the normal intercourse of the Tinkaris with their fellow Byansis on the Indian side is likely to have continued unhindered. They continued to use the Lipulekh Pass on the Indian side for their commerce with the Tibetans.[6][19] They also use the road on the Indian side to travel to Khalanga where they spend the winters as part of their transhumance practices. The footbridge at Sitapul near the mouth of Tinkar Khola is used to transit to the Indian side of the border.[7] Likewise the zamindars (landholders) on the Indian side that owned land in Nepal continued to operate such lands.[7]

The Tinkar Pass at the top of the Tinkar Valley is the de facto tri-junction between China, India and Nepal. Article 1 of the China–Nepal border treaty of 1961 states:

The Chinese-Nepalese boundary line starts from the point where the watershed between the Kali River and the Tinkar River meet the watershed between the tributaries of the Mapchu (Karnali) River on the one hand and the Tinkar River on the other hand.[20]

This being the precise geographical description of the location of the Tinkar Pass, the Border Pillar numbered 1 of the China–Nepal border was placed here.[21]

Following the Chinese take-over of Tibet, India and Nepal jointly operated a number of checkposts along the Tibet border starting in 1952.[22] According to Nepalese geographer Buddhi Narayan Shrestha, one of these was at the Tinkar Pass.[23][lower-alpha 1] In 1969, Nepal asked for the Indian personnel to be withdrawn from the posts, and India did so, with the understanding that Nepal would continue to man the posts. Former Indian Army general Ashok K. Mehta states that none of the posts remained afterwards.[13] Subsequently, India stepped up security and surveillance on the Indian side of the Nepal–India border and also introduced a permit system for the use of Indian roads.[24]

According to The Rising Nepal, a checkpost was established at the Tinkar village around 1972, by an Assistant Sub-Inspector, who was also in charge of patrolling up to Chhangru. The officer claimed to have patrolled up to the Kalapani village with arms once, along the Indian road, while the Indian security kept him under surveillance. He was denied a permit to visit it a second time.[24]

After the 1962 border war between India and China, India closed the Lipulekh Pass at the top of the Kalapani river valley. The Byansis of Kumaon then used the Tinkar Pass for all their trade with Tibet.[25][26] In 1997, India and China agreed to reopen the Lipulekh pass,[27] and the use of the Tinkar Pass had declined.

Status

According to the Chairperson of the Byas Rural Municipality, Chhangru is the last Nepali village along the Mahakali river heading north.[lower-alpha 2] He states that the roads on the Nepali side are bad and the villagers have to use the Indian roads to get to Chhangru.[lower-alpha 3] They have to obtain permits from the Indian administration for this purpose. He complained of the attitude of the Indian administrators, which he described as "condescending".[29]

There is a walk bridge over the Mahakali River near Chhangru called Sita Pul, which allows passage between India and Nepal. Nepal used to have a customs point at this location, which was abandoned during the conflict period, and has not yet been reinstated.[30] During the conflict period, the area was controlled by the Maoist rebels, who charged "tax" (protection money) on wildlife trafficking through the Tinkar route. Illegal animal products from India are said to have been trafficked, including tiger skins, tiger bones and parts, musk deer pouches and yarsagumba. The Nepali Times journalists estimated that the rebels earned Rs. 35 million annually through such "taxes".[28] Such trafficking is still ongoing as of 2019.[31]

News reports in May 2018 state that the trade with Tibet is "almost nil", and it has been so for the last five or six years. "There is neither road access from the Nepal side to bring goods imported from Tibet nor is there [a] customs office," according to The Kathmandu Post.[30]

Between 2013 and 2020, India laid a (motorable) link road on the Indian side of the river. When it was inaugurated in May 2020, the Nepalese government protested, calling it a "unilateral act".[32]

Bir Bahadur Chand, the police officer that established the Tinkar checkpost, states that the controversies surrounding the Kalapani territory are raised only by the Kathmandu media, and they cause a lot of difficulties for the people of the Tinkar region.[24]

See also

Notes
  1. Shrestha calls them "Indian posts", but they were in fact Nepalese posts set up with Indian assistance, and had only technical personnel from India. See Sen, N. C. (1969), "Changing Indo-Nepal Relations", China Report, 5 (5): 20–22, doi:10.1177/000944556900500505, S2CID 155924339
  2. It is to the south of Gunji where the Kuthi Yankti and Kalapani rivers merge, which India officially regards as the starting point of the Kali river. Even though the Chairperson says that Changru is the last village "not under India's control", that assertion is contracted by the Nepali Times journalists, who reported going up to 600 metres near the Kalapani stream before being stopped by the Indian security.[28]
  3. Even earlier, Manzardo et al. noted that the Byansis used the road on the Indian side because it was easier to traverse.[7]

References
  1. Śreshṭha, Border Management of Nepal (2003), p. 243
  2. Tinker transit point unguarded, The Himalayan Times, 19 January 2019.
  3. "Valleys of Nepal's Northwestern Corner". www.ai.stanford.edu. April 2016. Retrieved 20 November 2019.
  4. "Tinkar Pass". Retrieved 20 November 2019.
  5. "Api Best Camp, West Nepal" (PDF). Mountain Kingdoms Ltd. Retrieved 28 November 2019.
  6. Strachey, Narrative of a Journey to Cho Lagan etc. (1848): "We met a smiling rosy-faced Tinker [resident of Tinkar] on the top of Nirpaniah, who ... informed me that his pass is not so easy as Lipu Lekh, and the snow on it more troublesome, because his village has but 5 or 6 Man (families) whose small traffic is insufficient to make a good beaten path."
  7. Manzardo, Dahal & Rai, The Byanshi (1976), p. 85.
  8. Heim & Gansser, The Throne of the Gods (1939), p. 207.
  9. Schrader, Trading Patterns in the Nepal Himalayas (1988), p. 99.
  10. Manandhar & Koirala, Nepal-India Boundary Issue (2001), pp. 3–4: "The map 'District Almora' published by the Survey of India [during 1865–1869] for the first time shifted the boundary further east beyond even the Lipu Khola (Map-5). The new boundary moving away from Lipu Khola follows the southern divide of Pankhagadh Khola and then moves north along the ridge."
  11. Atkinson, Himalayan Gazetteer, Vol. 3, Part 2 (1981), pp. 381–382 and Walton, Almora District Gazetteer (1911), p. 253: "The drainage area of the Kalapani lies wholly within British territory, but a short way below the springs the Kali forms the boundary with Nepal." (Emphasis added)
  12. It's ours, The Economist, 2 July 1998.
  13. Ashok K. Mehta, Delhi Can’t Anger Nepal Too — Kalapani Issue Must Be Resolved ASAP, The Quint, 17 December 2019.
  14. Atkinson, Himalayan Gazetteer, Vol. 2, Part 2 (1981), pp. 679–680.
  15. Whelpton, A History of Nepal (2005), p. 41-42.
  16. Rose, Nepal – Strategy for Survival (1971), pp. 83–85: "Ochterlony forced Amar Singh Thapa to agree at Malaun to terms under which the Nepali army retired with their arms, and the territory between the Kali and Sutlej rivers came under the control of the British."
  17. Atkinson, Himalayan Gazetteer, Vol. 2, Part 2 (1981), pp. 679–680: "... this arrangement divided into two parts [the] parganah Byans, which had hitherto been considered as an integral portion of Kumaon as distinguished from Doti and Jumla."
  18. Manandhar & Koirala, Nepal-India Boundary Issue (2001), p. 4: Quoting Government of India's letter to the Almora officials: "... the occupation of the villages and lands of Pergunnah Byans on that side of the river, having taken place under erroneous view of the questions, they must now be transferred to the Nipaulese, however desirous the British Government may be to retain under its own sway the Zamindars and Inhabitants of those villages."
  19. Manzardo, Dahal & Rai, The Byanshi (1976), p. 85: "Tinkar pass reaches an altitude of 20,000 feet and is considerably more difficult to traverse than Lipu pass, which was the main route to Taklakot (Purang)."
  20. Cowan (2015), p. 16.
  21. Cowan (2015), pp. 16–17.
  22. Kavic, India's Quest for Security (1967), p. 55: "The extent of these precautionary measures is reflected in the rise in the cost of these defence posts from $42,000 (1952) to $280,000 (1954)".... "[25] The initiative reportedly came from Nepal. See Robert Trumbull in the New York Times, 16 February 1950."
  23. Cowan (2015), p. 8.
  24. Gokarna Dayal, I Used To Patrol With Arms In Kalapani 48 Years Ago: Nepal Police ASI, The Rising Nepal, 12 May 2020.
  25. Schrader, Trading Patterns in the Nepal Himalayas (1988), p. 99: "Lipu La, however, was closed in 1962, due to the strained Sino-Indian relations. Today remaining trade moves via Tinkar La."
  26. Manzardo, Dahal & Rai, The Byanshi (1976), p. 85: "Previously there were two passes to Tibet, the Lipu pass (Lipu la) and the Tinkar pass (Tinkar la), but now only the Tinkar pass is accessible, since the Indians have closed Lipu pass to trans-Himalayan traffic."
  27. Rose, Leo E. (January–February 1999), "Nepal and Bhutan in 1998: Two Himalayan Kingdoms", Asian Survey, 39 (1): 155–162, doi:10.2307/2645605, JSTOR 2645605
  28. K. C. Sharad, Kalapani's new ‘line of control’, Nepali Times, 10 September 2004.
  29. Ram Chandra Bhandari, No border marks in Kalapani, locals at mercy of Indian administration, Lokantar, 10 November 2019.
  30. Nepal-Tibet trade hit for lack of road and other facilities, The Kathmandu Post, 20 October 2018.
  31. Sonia Awale, Nepal-China Connectivity Aid Wildlife Smuggling, The Pangolin Reports, 6 September 2019. "New trans-Himalayan roads have also made it easier for wildlife smugglers transporting contraband from India to China via Nepal. Besides Rasuwagadi, Olangchungola in Taplejung, Kimathanka in Sankhuwasaba, Ilam in eastern Nepal, Tinkar Pass in Darchula and Hilsa in Humla are new smuggling routes."
  32. PTI, Nepal objects to India's ‘unilateral’ opening of link road to Kailash Manasarovar, The Print, 9 May 2020.

Bibliography
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