Converse (lifestyle wear)

Converse (/ˈkɒnvərs/) is an American brand of lifestyle wear that markets, distributes, and licenses sneakers, skating shoes, lifestyle brand footwear, apparel, and accessories. Founded in 1908, it has been a subsidiary of Nike, Inc. since 2003.[2] Converse, initially known as the Converse Rubber Shoe Company, produced winterized rubber-soled shoes and boots.[3]

Converse
TypeSubsidiary
Industry
  • Footwear
  • Textile
FoundedFebruary 1908 (1908-02) in Malden, Massachusetts, U.S.[1]
FounderMarquis Mills Converse
HeadquartersBoston, Massachusetts, U.S.
Number of locations
More than 100 U.S. retail stores (2018)
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
Scott Uzzell (President and CEO)
Products
BrandsConverse
Revenue US$1.91 billion (2019)
ParentNike, Inc. (2003present)
Websiteconverse.com

During World War II, Converse shifted its manufacturing to make footwear for the military.[4] It was one of the few producers of athletic shoes, and for over a half-century dominated the U.S. market. From the 1970s, the company lost its dominant position as competitors presented their styles.

The company's portfolio includes products under the Converse, Cons, Chuck Taylor All-Star ("Chucks"), Jack Purcell, One Star, and Star Chevron trademarks.[5] Converse frequently collaborates on special edition product releases with other brands such as John Varvatos. Converse shoes are distinguished by the company's star insignia, the All Star's rubber sole, a smooth rounded toe, and a wrap-around strip.

As of 2019, Converse sold products through 109 company-owned retail stores in the United States and 63 stores in international markets.[5] The growth of Converse as a casual fashion accessory contributed to $1.7 billion in revenue in 2014 and $2 billion in 2015.[6]

History

Early years

Forty-seven-year-old Marquis Mills Converse, a manager at a footwear manufacturing firm, opened the Converse Rubber Shoe Company in February 1908 in Malden, Massachusetts.[7] The company was a rubber shoe manufacturer, providing winterized rubber-soled footwear for men, women, and children. By 1910, Converse was producing shoes daily, but it was not until 1915 that the company began manufacturing athletic shoes.[8]

In 1918, the Converse All-Star basketball shoe was introduced.[7] Then in 1923, a basketball player named Charles H. "Chuck" Taylor walked into Converse complaining of sore feet. Converse gave him a job: he worked as a salesman and ambassador, promoting the shoes around the U.S., and in 1932 Taylor's signature was added to the All-Star patch on the classic, high-topped sneakers. He continued this work until shortly before his death in 1969.[9] Converse also customized shoes for the New York Renaissance (the "Rens"), the first all–African American professional basketball team. In 1962, center Wilt Chamberlain of the Philadelphia Warriors scored 100 points in an NBA game while wearing a pair of Chucks, taking a 169–147 victory over the New York Knicks in Hershey, Pennsylvania, on March 2.[10]

1941–2001: War, rise, and bankruptcy

When the U.S. entered World War II in 1941, Converse shifted production to manufacturing rubberized footwear, outerwear, and protective suits for the military. The company resumed production of athletic footwear after the war's end. Popular during the 1950s and 1960s, Converse promoted an American image with its Converse Basketball Yearbook. Artist Charles Kerins created cover art that celebrated Converse's role in the lives of high school and college athletes.

Red pair of Converse Chuck Taylor All Stars
Black Converse sneakers

In the 1970s, Converse bought out one of its biggest competitors at the time, PF Flyers, from B.F. Goodrich. This led to a monopoly in the shoe market that in 1975 both brands had to split because of an anti-trust lawsuit. Despite both brands being split, Converse had kept the trademark rights of the Jack Purcell line it had purchased from the PF Flyers acquisition. Jack Purcell shoes are still produced and sold today.[11]

Converse lost its athletic shoe monopoly from the 1970s onward, as new competitors, including Puma, Adidas, and Nike, grew in popularity. A decade later, as Reebok introduced new designs and technology to the sports market, Converse was no longer the official shoe of the National Basketball Association (NBA).[12]

The chevron and star insignia — a logo that remains on a large portion of Converse footwear other than the All Star — was created by Jim Labadini, an employee.[13]

Canvas-rubber shoes regained popularity in the 1980s as casual footwear, but Converse eventually became too dependent on the "All Stars" brand, whose market collapsed by 1989–1990. By 2000, Converse was slipping repeatedly into receivership as debt piled up yearly.[14]

Converse filed for bankruptcy on January 22, 2001. On March 30, its last manufacturing plants in the U.S. closed down, as production fully moved overseas.[15] In April 2001, Footwear Acquisitions, led by Marsden Cason and Bill Simon, purchased the brand from bankruptcy and added industry partners Jack Boys, Jim Stroesser, Lisa Kempa, and David Maddocks to lead the turnaround.[16] During this period, Converse moved its headquarters from North Reading, Massachusetts, to North Andover, Massachusetts. The company was located in the town of North Andover for 13 years.[17]

Acquisition by Nike and new headquarters

In July 2003, Nike paid US$309 million to acquire Converse.[2] Around 2010, Nike relaunched the footwear, taking advantage of the wave of 1980s revival. The company also expanded the Converse brand to include apparel and accessories, akin to Nike's other brands.

In January 2013, Converse announced plans for a new headquarters building. It was constructed near North Station in downtown Boston, on the Lovejoy Wharf, as part of a site overhaul and restoration of public waterfront access.[18] The 10-story 214,000-square-foot (19,900 m2) office building includes a permanent music recording studio, 5,000-square-foot (460 m2) gym with separate yoga studio, and a 3,500-square-foot (330 m2) retail store.[19]

Litigation

Starting in July 2008, Converse sent around 180 cease-and-desist letters to over 30 companies that they claimed were violating the Chuck Taylor All Star trademark and selling so-called look-alike sneakers.

In October 2014, Converse filed a lawsuit against 30 companies for allegedly infringing on its generic sneaker style's bumper toe, striped midsole, and toe cap. The brand argued that companies were violating an alleged common-law trademark by importing sneakers with similar elements. Several companies settled with Converse and they were dropped from the list.[20][21]

In November 2015, Charles Bullock, chief administrative judge at the International Trade Commission, preliminarily ruled that several brands Converse filed against were violating Converse's outsole design trademarks, i.e. the pattern on the bottom of the sole of the shoe. Judge Bullock further ruled that while Skechers "Twinkle Toes" brands did share similarities to Converse, "Twinkle Toes" were different enough and marketed in a way for it not to be mistaken for Chuck Taylor All-Stars.[22] Judge Bullock also ruled that most of the shoes sold by Highline United under the Ash brand did not infringe and that Converse did not have a valid common law mark for its midsole.

On June 23, 2016, the anniversary of the death of Chuck Taylor, the International Trade Commission ruled that Converse's alleged trade dress for the midsole design of a combined toe cap, toe bumper, and stripe was not entitled to trademark protection under the common law and found invalid Converse's federal trademark registration. The case was appealed to the U.S. Court of Appeals for the Federal Circuit, which ruled that the ITC had used the wrong test and remanded the case. On remand, the ITC ruled that Converse’s trade dress was protectable but not infringed.[23]

Products

The Weapon

The Weapon, manufactured in many different color schemes

In 1986, Converse released "The Weapon" basketball shoe. Manufactured in two color schemes to match the kit colors of basketball teams, it has been available in both high-top and low-cut varieties. It had leather construction throughout, including the inside heel which was also heavily padded for comfort. The first endorsers of "The Weapon" were Larry Bird and Magic Johnson, who were prominently featured in a Converse commercial set in Bird's hometown of French Lick, Indiana in 1985.[24] They were also worn by Axl Rose in the Guns N' Roses music video "Estranged".

Converse re-released "The Weapon" classic (which Kobe Bryant wore at least three times in 2002 and Andre Miller wore in 2002 from mid-August to early September) several times from 1999 to 2003 and after, "The Loaded Weapon" in 2003, "The Weapon 86" in 2008 (and the Poorman version in 2009, and the John Varvatos version in 2012), "The Weapon EVO" in 2009, and its successor "The Star Player EVO" (sometimes reduced to "The Star Plyr EVO" or "The Star Ply EVO") in 2010.

Chuck Taylor All Star II

Joshua Mueller, Guinness Book of World Records holder for a most significant collection of "Chucks", photographed in 2006

A redesigned model of the Chuck Taylor All-Star, the Chuck Taylor II, was released in July 28, 2015.[25][26] Incorporating Nike technology, it retains most of the original's outward appearance while employing newer materials for the insole.[25]

Special editions

Converse fashion in Paris

Several special editions of Converse shoes have been made, including DC Comics, Super Mario, Pink Floyd, AC/DC, Metallica, The Ramones, The Clash, Dr. Seuss, Sailor Jerry, Grateful Dead, Ozzy Osbourne, Jimi Hendrix, Miley Cyrus,[27][28] Drew Brophy, Nirvana, Bad Meets Evil, Green Day, Gorillaz, Matt and Kim, Black Sabbath, and The Who.[29]

Additionally, Converse have made an appearance in over 650 films, such as Back to the Future, I, Robot, Grease and Stand by Me.[30] David Tennant (playing the Tenth Doctor) wore a variety of Hi-top Converse on science-fiction show Doctor Who, including red and cream versions.[31]

In July 2018, Converse teamed up with BT21, a millennial pop character created by South Korean hip-hop group BTS, to launch the special collaboration line of Chuck Taylor All-Stars featuring the illustrations of BT21 characters; it's currently available in limited quantities in Asia starting from July 27.[32]

Sponsorships

In 2019, Converse returned to the performance basketball scene with the All-Star Pro BB. Kelly Oubre Jr. was the first player to try out the new product,[33] which combined the traditional Converse silhouette with the contemporary Nike technology. Thereafter Converse signed more players: Draymond Green in March 2020,[34] Natasha Cloud (the first WNBA player) in June 2020,[35] Shai Gilgeous-Alexander in July 2020,[36] and, more recently, Rudy Gay, P. J. Tucker, DeAndre' Bembry, De'Anthony Melton, Nickeil Alexander-Walker, Immanuel Quickley, Deividas Sirvydis, Jordan Clarkson, Josh Richardson, David Duke Jr., Brandon Williams. Some of the aforementioned players also wear other brands.[37]

Former Football (Soccer) teams

  • Atlético Nacional (2001-2002)
  • Politehnica Timișoara (2006-2008)

Former Converse college teams

  • Marquette Golden Eagles—switched to Jordan when most famous alum, Dwyane Wade,[38] signed with Jordan
  • Western Kentucky Hilltoppers—shoes only

Due to Converse withdrawing from performance basketball shoes,[39] no college teams are wearing Converse shoes, and only recently, Asi Taulava, Kelly Oubre Jr.,[40] and others, as noted above, have once again endorsed the brand after it returned to the basketball court.

Skateboarding

Under the "CONS" name, Converse launched its skateboarding program in 2009 with a team of "ambassadors": Kenny Anderson, Anthony Pappalardo, Nick Trapasso, Sammy Baca, Ethan Fowler, Raymond Molinar, and Rune Glifberg.[41] In 2012, the company added Jason Jessee and Mike Anderson to its ambassadors team.[42]

In August 2012, Converse sponsored a skate event at Huntington Beach, California, US. Trapasso, Tom Remillard,[43] Aaron Homoki, Greyson Fletcher, Ben Raemers, Ben Hatchell, Robbie Russo, and Ben Raybourn participated in the competition that was held. Raybourn eventually won the US$20,000 grand prize, and Homoki won the US$3,000 Best Trick contest.[44]

As of July 2014, the CONS skateboard team consisted of original members Anderson, Trapasso, Baca, and Glifberg, while Jessee, Anderson, Julian Davidson, Remillard, Zered Basset, Ben Raemers, Jake Johnson, Eli Reed, Louie Lopez, Sage Elsesser, and Sean Pablo were subsequently added.[42] Bassett filmed a new advertisement that was broadcast online in July 2014, in which he skateboarded through New York City in a newly launched skate shoe version of the Converse Weapon model, the "CONS Weapon Skate."[45]

Philanthropy

A special collection called "1Hund (RED)", whereby fifteen percent of the profits are used to support HIV/AIDS prevention, was released by the brand. One hundred artists from around the world were chosen to create designs for the collection as part of the (RED) campaign. Professional skateboarder, Anthony Pappalardo, who, at the time, was also associated with another (RED) participant, Girl skateboards—Pappalardo was sponsored by Chocolate skateboards, a brand distributed by the Crailtap, the distribution company that owns both Girl and Chocolate—released a (RED) edition of his high-selling signature skate shoe model.[46][47] Pappalardo explains:

I got into woodworking about two years ago, through a buddy of mine who I used to skate with every day—he turned into a woodworker. So he gave me this scrap box of wood, and, basically, I just wanted to do something with it ... make something with it. It just definitely started consuming me as skating did. I wanted to read about it, you know? Go on the internet and watch videos about it, and just learn anything and everything I could about woodworking. The first thing I ever made was a bench, and that's, kinda, what I've been making ever since. the cool thing about working with Product (RED) is just by doing the two things that I love, I'm also able to help people.[48]

Pappalardo's first signature shoe with Converse was released in February 2010 and it was produced in the (RED) colorway.[47]

In 2012, Converse was listed as a partner in the (RED) campaign, together with other brands such as Nike Inc., Girl, and Bugaboo. The campaign's mission is to prevent the transmission of the HIV virus from mother to child by 2015 (the campaign's byline is "Fighting For An AIDS Free Generation").[49]

In the winter of 2018, Converse teamed up with several influential figures in the Los Angeles area to create a collection paying to those who help move the culture forward in the city. Among those selected by the Boston-based footwear brand for this L.A.-themed collection are Vince Staples, Dr. Woo, Rocket, BornXRaised, and Clot.

References

  1. "Converse turns 100". Chucksconnection.com. May 29, 2008. Archived from the original on August 13, 2011. Retrieved August 31, 2011.
  2. Wayne, Leslie. "For $305 million, Nike buys Converse". the New York Times. Retrieved March 27, 2016.
  3. Foreman, Katya. "Converse shoes: In the all star game". www.bbc.com. Retrieved August 19, 2022.
  4. Ailworth, Erin (March 2, 2008). "Pros and Cons". Boston.com. Retrieved April 26, 2022.
  5. "Nike 2019 Form 10K" (PDF). Retrieved November 8, 2019.
  6. "NIKE, INC. Reports Fiscal 2015 Fourth Quarter And Full Year Results". NIKE, Inc. Retrieved February 11, 2016.
  7. Bertho, Michelle; Crawford, Beverly; Fogarty, Edward A. (September 30, 2008). The Impact of Globalization on the United States [3 volumes]. ABC-CLIO. ISBN 9780313083198.
  8. "Converse - About Us Page". www.converse.com.au. Archived from the original on October 20, 2014. Retrieved June 3, 2021.
  9. "Who the heck was Chuck Taylor anyway?". Kentucky New Era. Hopkinsville. Associated Press. March 28, 2001. p. A7.
  10. "Wilt Breaks NBA Record; Gets 100 Against Knicks". Reading Eagle. Pennsylvania. Associated Press. March 3, 1962. p. 7.
  11. Perrin, Charles. "Old Sneakers (since 1935) - Goodrich (now Converse) Jack Purcell". Archived from the original on September 28, 2011. Retrieved August 31, 2011.
  12. "Converse Is Getting Back Into the NBA". GQ. November 19, 2018. Retrieved April 26, 2022.
  13. "The 25 Best Logos in Sneaker History". Complex. Complex. December 6, 2012. Retrieved February 17, 2018. Jim Labadini helped cook up the Converse 2.0 logo during a time when sneaker brands where getting extremely competitive. The Converse Chevron logo marked the move forward into what would become an exciting time for the brand, thanks to some guys with nicknames like Dr. J, Magic, and Legend.
  14. Rovell, Darren (October 18, 2000). "Converse Nears Corporate Extinction". ESPN. ESPN. Retrieved February 17, 2018. Industry sources have confirmed that Converse has racked up $180 million in debt, and the announcement of the company's death is merely a formality.
  15. ?"Converse closes Chuck Taylor plant". Billings Gazette. Associated Press. October 18, 2000. Retrieved March 30, 2001. The Lumberton plant that has churned out 8 million to 10 million pairs of Chuck Taylors a year has sent its 475 employees home, and the factory officially closes Saturday. Plants in Mission, Texas, and Reynosa, Mexico, are also being closed by the 93-year-old company.
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  44. Lance Dawes; Cory Williams (August 6, 2012). "RAYBOURN CRUISES THROUGH CARNAGE". ESPN Action Sports. ESPN Internet Ventures. Retrieved January 20, 2013.
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  47. Blair Alley (December 2, 2009). "ANTHONY PAPPALARDO'S PROJECT RED CONS PRO MODEL". Transworld Skateboarding. Bonnier Corporation. Retrieved January 20, 2013.
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  49. "(RED)". (RED) Partners. (RED), a division of The ONE Campaign. 2012. Archived from the original on May 28, 2012. Retrieved October 13, 2012.
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