2005 UIAA Climbing World Championships

The 2005 UIAA Climbing World Championships, the 8th edition, were held in Munich, Germany from 1 to 5 July 2005. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead, speed, and bouldering events.[1][2]

2005 UIAA Climbing World Championships
Location Munich, Germany
Date1 – 5 July 2005
Competitors318 from 51 nations

The lead chief route-setter was Donato Lella.

Medalists
Event Gold Silver Bronze
Men's Lead Tomas Mrazek
 Czech Republic		 Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza
 Spain		 Alexandre Chabot
 France
Men's Bouldering Salavat Rakhmetov
 Russia		 Kilian Fischhuber
 Austria		 Gerome Pouvreau
 France
Men's Speed Evgenii Vaitsekhovskii
 Russia		 Maksym Styenkovyy
 Ukraine		 Sergei Sinitcyn
 Russia
Women's Lead Angela Eiter
 Austria		 Emily Harrington
 United States		 Akiyo Noguchi
 Japan
Women's Bouldering Olga Shalagina
 Ukraine		 Yulia Abramchuk
 Russia		 Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova
 Czech Republic
Women's Speed Olena Ryepko
 Ukraine		 Valentina Yurina
 Russia		 Edyta Ropek
 Poland

Men

In men's lead, three climbers topped the route, and so their final standings were decided by their semifinal results.[3]

In men's bouldering, the 38-year-old veteran Salavat Rakhmetov sent all six problems in his first attempts in the final round, claiming the gold. Second place Kilian Fischhuber also sent all six problems, but needed two attempts more than Rakhmetov, while third place Gerome Pouvreau needed 13 attempts to top and 11 attempts to zone all six boulder problems.[4]

In men's speed, Evgenii Vaitsekhovskii won the gold medal, while Maksym Styenkovyy and Sergei Sinitcyn took second and third respectively.

Lead[5][3] Bouldering[6][4] Speed[7]
Rank Name Score Result Rank Name Score Result Rank Name Result
1st place, gold medalist(s) Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek Top 8800 1st place, gold medalist(s) Russia Salavat Rakhmetov 6t6 6z6 8400 1st place, gold medalist(s) Russia Evgenii Vaitsekhovskii 5900
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Spain Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Top 7040 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Austria Kilian Fischhuber 6t8 6z8 6720 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Ukraine Maksym Styenkovyy 4720
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) France Alexandre Chabot Top 5720 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) France Gerome Pouvreau 6t13 6z11 5460 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Russia Sergei Sinitcyn 3835
4 Switzerland Cedric Lachat 30.22- 4840 4 Ukraine Serik Kazbekov 6t13 6z13 4620 4 Poland Tomasz Oleksy 3245
5 Netherlands Jorg Verhoeven 29.09+ 4488 5 Finland Nalle Hukkataival 5t5 5z5 4284 5 Venezuela Manuel Escobar 3009
6 Germany Timo Preussler 29.09+ 4136 6 France Daniel Du Lac 5t7 5z6 3948 6 Russia Evgueni Minatchev 2773
7 Ukraine Serik Kazbekov 27.51+ 3784 7 Russia Dmitrii Sharafutdinov 5t7 5z7 3612 7 Russia Iakov Soubbotine 2537
8 Ukraine Maksym Petrenko 11.96- 3520 8 Switzerland Cedric Lachat 5t8 6z12 3360 8 Russia Alexander Peshekhonov 2360
9 France Sylvain Millet 11.24+ 3256 9 Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek 4t6 4z6 3108 9 Ukraine Kyrylo Shevchenko 2183
10 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanqué - 2992 10 France Jérôme Meyer 4t7 5z9 2856 10 Ukraine Vyacheslav Titov 2006
11 Japan Keita Mogaki 3t3 5z10 2604
12 Netherlands Jorg Verhoeven 3t3 4z5 2352

Women

In women's lead, Angela Eiter dominated the competition by being the only climber topping the semifinal route and climbing six meters higher than the rest of the competition on the final route. Emily Harrington climbed to second place while 16-year-old Akiyo Noguchi claimed the bronze medal, her first medal in senior competition. The defending champion Muriel Sarkany placed 10th.[3]

In women's bouldering, Olga Shalagina had a clean run by topping all six boulder problems in her first attempts in the final round. Yulia Abramchuk and Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova sent five problems, separated by attempts. The 35-year-old Renata Piszczek from Poland finished 4th, ahead of Anna Stöhr.[4]

In women's speed, Olena Ryepko took the win, and Valentina Yurina and Edyta Ropek claimed second and third place respectively.

Lead[8][3] Bouldering[9][4] Speed[10]
Rank Name Score Result Rank Name Score Result Rank Name Result
1st place, gold medalist(s) Austria Angela Eiter 29.34- 8700 1st place, gold medalist(s) Ukraine Olga Shalagina 6t6 6z6 8800 1st place, gold medalist(s) Ukraine Olena Ryepko 4200
2nd place, silver medalist(s) United States Emily Harrington 23.68- 6960 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Russia Yulia Abramchuk 5t5 6z6 7040 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Russia Valentina Yurina 3360
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Japan Akiyo Noguchi 23.25+ 5655 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Czech Republic Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova 5t9 6z9 5720 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Poland Edyta Ropek 2730
4 Ukraine Olga Shalagina 22.61 4785 4 Poland Renata Piszczek 5t9 5z8 4840 4 China Cuifang He 2310
5 France Caroline Ciavaldini 21.35 4437 5 Austria Anna Stöhr 5t10 6z9 4488 5 Russia Anna Stenkovaya 2142
6 France Sandrine Levet 18.13- 4089 6 Russia Olga Bibik 4t4 6z6 4136 6 Russia Olesya Saulevich 1974
7 Slovenia Natalija Gros 17.73 3741 7 Russia Tatiana Shemulinkina 4t6 6z7 3784 7 Germany Lisa Knoche 1806
8 Austria Katharina Saurwein 17.73- 3480 8 Russia Venera Chereshneva 4t6 5z10 3520 8 Hungary Lenke Kucsera 1680
9 Russia Yana Chereshneva 17.05+ 3219 9 Spain Esther Cruz Montalban 4t8 6z18 3256 9 Ukraine Olga Zakharova 1554
10 Belgium Muriel Sarkany 16.51- 2958 10 France Corinne Theroux 4t8 4z7 2992 10 Venezuela Lucelia Blanco 1428
11 United States Elizabeth Asher 4t8 4z8 2728
12 South Korea Jain Kim 3t3 6z9 2464
13 Russia Yana Chereshneva 3t4 5z 2288

References
  1. "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-08-30.
  2. "UIAA World Rock-climbing Championship, Munich. Lead. Semifinal / Climb / Mountain.RU". www.mountain.ru. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  3. "Tomas Mrazek and Angela Eiter World Champions". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2017-08-10. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  4. "Rakhmetov and Shalagina Bouldering World Champions". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2021-08-31. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  5. "Result: M E N lead". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  6. "Result: M E N bouldering". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  7. "Result: M E N speed". Archived from the original on 2012-01-22.
  8. "Result: W O M E N lead". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  9. "Result: W O M E N bouldering". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  10. "Result: W O M E N speed". www.digitalrock.de. Archived from the original on 2012-01-22. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
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