Christopher Raeburn (designer)

Christopher Raeburn (born 13 August 1982) is a British fashion designer, known for reworking surplus fabrics and garments to create menswear, womenswear and accessories.[1]

Christopher Raeburn
Raeburn in his East London studio
Born13 August 1982
Kent, England
EducationRoyal College of Art
OccupationFashion designer
LabelRÆBURN
Websitewww.raeburndesign.co.uk

Early life

Christopher Raeburn was born the youngest of three boys in Kent. He spent a lot of time in the outdoors in his childhood, using his imagination and inventing. "We were encouraged to draw something in the week and then challenged to make it with my dad on the weekend. From the age of 11, I was in air cadets, I learnt to fly. I was doing my Duke of Edinburgh. I was doing walks in Holland. I had this love of being prepared".[2]

Career

Raeburn graduated from London's Royal College of Art in 2006. He freelanced as a pattern cutter before setting up his own studio in 2008, and later his label.[3] Raeburn participated in the 'Camouflage' exhibition at London's Imperial War Museum and featured in Hywel Davies' publication '100 New Designers'.[4] He ended 2008 with his first collection showcased during London Design Week, a capsule range of reversible garments titled Inverted.

In 2009, Raeburn showcased menswear in Paris, received an award from the International Ethical Fashion Forum,[5] and gained support from Esthetica, allowing him to show his work at London Fashion Week that September. In 2010, Raeburn was the first designer to be awarded Topshop NEWGEN sponsorship for both men's and women's wear in the same season.[6]

Raeburn has become known for the ethical integrity of his work, although he admits it was never his intention.[7] American Vogue's August 2010 issue highlighted Raeburn's contribution to all things green with the advice to "Remember the four R's – Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Raeburn", accompanied by a Mario Testino shoot of Blake Lively wearing a Raeburn Duffle Coat. After viewing his Autumn/Winter 2011 London Fashion Week presentation at the disused Aldwych tube station, Style.com stated, "it's not unreasonable to assert that Christopher Raeburn is the single most radical designer working today".[8]

In 2010, Raeburn was approached by Victorinox[9] to collaborate with them on a men's and women's wear capsule collection. Victorinox set up a "Remade in Switzerland" studio in Ibach, the birthplace of Karl Elsener, the founder of Victorinox. He found the original house where Elsener founded the brand as inspiration for the establishment of his Swiss LAB. In his lab, he produced 100 pieces of each style by hand.[10] The collaboration launched on schedule during New York Fashion Week in February 2011.[11]

Raeburn jacket remade from parachute

In 2011, he was nominated for the 'Observer Ethical Awards: Fashion Category' and 'Condé Nast Traveller award: design and innovation' prizes, and his 'REMADE IN SWITZERLAND' collaboration with Victorinox is shown on schedule at NYFW.[12]

In 2012, the brand started to widen its stockist list, counting more than 20 stores worldwide, including the Paris-based boutique Colette. In that year Christopher Raeburn also launched his first accessories collection, as well as the much-awaited first collaboration with Moncler.[13]

The following year, Raeburn's visibility continued to increase, with the designer receiving sponsorship from Woolmark for his SS14 season. 2013 was a big year for Christopher Raeburn, who in that year not only won Designer Business of the Year at the UK Fashion and Textiles awards but also launched two major collaborations, with Rapha and Fred Perry. He ended the year by being announced as artistic director of Victorinox Fashion, due to past collaborations.[14]

In 2014, there were two Woolmark sponsorships for Raeburn, this time towards his AW14 and his SS15 seasons, menswear and womenswear. The designer was, once again, shortlisted for BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund,[15] and also launched his Barbour collaboration. In the same year, Christopher Raeburn won Menswear Brand of the Year at the UK Fashion and Textiles Awards.[16]

In 2015, Raeburn was shortlisted for the second year for BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund [17] and he was sponsored again by Woolmark for his AW15 collection. He launched two collaborations: one with Wool and The Gang, to create a joint line of knitted accessories, and one with knitwear specialised brand Unmade, to create an interactive bespoke knitwear. In the same year Raeburn received the award for Best Emerging Designer [18] at the GQ Men of the Year Awards,[19] and later on he launched his first footwear menswear and womenswear joint collections with Clarks.[20]

RÆBURN parachute logo
RÆBURN parachute logo

At the beginning of 2016, Raeburn saw his "Layers of Natural Innovation" partnership with The Woolmark company shown at the ICA during London Fashion Week in celebration of the versatility of Merino Wool, before being shortlisted for a third year for the BFC / GQ Designer Menswear Fashion Fund. That year Raeburn also launched a collaboration with MCM.[21]

In Autumn 2018, US lifestyle brand Timberland announced its appointment of Christopher Raeburn as global creative director of the brand.[22] This was followed by the news that Raeburn would revive Left Hand and ST95, brands developed by Stone Island-founder Massimo Osti, in December 2020.[23]

In November 2021, RÆBURN created a partnership with circular fashion platform Responsible.us and Christopher was appointed as an Advisory Board Member, supporting the reCommerce platform in broadening its credibility and reach within the circularity category.[24] In April 2022, Christopher revised his relationship with Timberland, continuing his commitment to eco-innovation and style in a new role as a collaborator at large, where he’ll continue to lead creative for the Earthkeepers platform, as well as assist with a roster of collaborators for Timberland.[25] In the summer of 2022, RÆBURN was selected as a finalist for the Zalando Sustainability Award, which saw Christopher present the brand's SS23 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week. ⁠

Awards

  • 2010: NewGen sponsorship for both menswear and womenswear[26]
  • 2010 and 2011: Rising Star at the UK Fashion and Textiles Awards
  • 2011: British Fashion Award for Emerging Talent Menswear[27]
  • 2013: Designer of the Year at the UKFT Awards[28]
  • 2014: Menswear Brand of the Year at the UKFT Awards[16]
  • 2015: Best Emerging Designer at the GQ Men of the Year Awards[29]
  • 2019: Honorary professorship and Lifetime Achievement Award by the Glasgow Caledonian University (GCU)[30]
  • 2020: Brand of the Year (RÆBURN) at the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards[31]
  • 2020: Fashion Award 2020 (RÆBURN), selected as one of the Honourees of the Environment category[32]
  • 2021: Brand of the Year (RÆBURN) at the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards[33]
  • 2022: One of the Winners of the Common Objective Leadership Award (RÆBURN)[34]
  • 2022: Brand of the Year (RÆBURN) at the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards[35]
  • 2022: Most Sustainable Store Design (RÆBURN’s Marshall Street, Carnaby Store) in the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards[36]
  • 2022: Zalando Sustainability Award Finalist [37]

Collaborations

Year With Collaborations Sources
2011 Victorinox 'Remade in Switzerland' collection (launch during New York Fashion Week) [10]
2012 Moncler Outerwear collection 'Moncler R' [13]
2013 Rapha Capsule collection of city-riding garments named 'Rapha Raeburn' [38]
Victorinox Raeburn x Victorinox 'Festival Ready' project launched; consisting of an 11-piece collection of camping gear and outdoor-wear [39]
Fred Perry Limited edition polo shirt [40]
2014 Oki Ni SS15 collection [41]
Barbour [42]
2015 Oki Ni Video campaign showing how vintage materials can be re-created [41]
Lavazza London Collections: Men, using an elliptical shark print [43]
Clarks Raeburn's first footwear collection, received a sponsorship from Woolmark for both menswear and womenswear [44]
2016 MCM Sustainable ready to wear and accessories collection, "Made to Move" [45]
Disney Collection of bags which pay homage to Mickey and Minnie [46]
2017 Save The Duck Collection of recycled and animal-friendly outerwear presented at Pitti Uomo and continued for Spring/Summer 2018 [47]
Instrmnt Line of watches [48]
Porter Yoshida Porter Stand in Tokyo [49]
Palladium Footwear collaboration launched at London Fashion Week: Men's [50]
Eastpak Range of backpacks remade from old camouflage jackets [51]
Victoria and Albert Museum Redesign of staff uniform [52]
2018 Finisterre Capsule collection of ready to wear and accessories inspired by oceans [53]
CanO Water Design recyclable water can to replace plastic bottles from London Zoo [54]
Secret Cinema Dress actors for Blade Runner - The Final Cut [55]
Umbro Capsule collection for the FIFA World Cup in Russia [56]
Timberland Ready to wear collaboration at London Fashion Week Men's, which deconstructed old Timberland pieces [57]
2019 The North Face Capsule collection of bags remade from North Face tents that can no longer be repaired [58]
Timberland Ready to wear collection including accessories and footwear, using organic and recycled materials [59]
Design agency LAYER Furniture project 'The Canopy Collection' launched for London Design Festival in September 2019 with pieces featured recycled ex-military parachute and steel frames [60]
Design Museum Moving To Mars exhibition with their New Horizons collection, including repurposed solar blankets and parachutes [61]
2020 Depop Depop × RÆBURN Reversible Bucket Hat project [62]
Ragnar Axelsson Autumn/Winter 2020 collection [63]
2021 Aesop [64]
Massimo Osti Reviving Left Hand and ST95 [65]
Onward Advanced System Outwear collection [66]
Boardies Swimwear capsule consisting of recycled materials and animal print [67]
Zalando - The North Fac The North Face RENEWED by RÆBURN,a series of limited edition Panda Rucksacks

Upcycled original The North Face garments

[68][69]

The Lab E20 opened in July; a 3,500sq ft space produced and designed by Raeburn. It will form Get Living’s new creative hub in East Village, London.[70]

References

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  2. "Christopher Raeburn: The Revisit – Style Bubble". stylebubble.co.uk. Retrieved 18 September 2018.
  3. "London Fashion Week". londonfashionweek.co.uk. Retrieved 18 September 2018.
  4. Davies, Hywel Davies (2012). 100 New Fashion Designers. Laurence King.
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  8. "Farfetch - For the Love of Fashion". style.com. Retrieved 18 September 2018.
  9. "Victorinox Swiss Army (USA) - Victorinox Homepage". Victorinox Swiss Army. Retrieved 18 September 2018.
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  30. ok. "Shared Publication". emagcreator.com. Retrieved 24 November 2020.
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  66. "RÆBURN Join Forces with Onward Advanced System on a Range of Forward-thinking Performance Outerwear - Proper Magazine". 20 January 2021. Retrieved 23 August 2021.
  67. "Boardies® & RÆBURN Make a Splash With Shark-Infested Swimwear". Highsnobiety. 9 May 2021. Retrieved 23 August 2021.
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