Raasay

Places classified as settlements[12] by the Ordnance Survey include:

• Arnish
• Brochel
• Clachan
• East Suisnish
• Eyre
• Inverarish
• Oskaig
• Suisnish
• Torran

These places aren't classified as settlements by the Ordnance Survey but are shown on the A-Z Great Britain Road atlas 2022[13]

• Balachuirn
• Glame
• North Fearns

• 
  Clachan
• 
  Suisnish
• 
  Inverarish
• 
  Hallaig (abandoned)

Castle Broichin on the Isle of Raasay, an 1819 aquatint by William Daniell depicting Brochel Castle

Tradition has it that Clan MacSween originally held title to Raasay but there is no written record of this.[38] It is known that the island was ruled by the MacLeods from 1518 when Gillecallum, younger son of the MacLeod Chief of Lewis was granted title.[3] Martin Martin visited towards the end of the 17th century and noted:

it has some wood on all the quarters of it, the whole is fitter for pasturage than cultivation, the ground being generally very unequal, but very well watered with rivulets and springs. There is a spring running down the face of a high rock on the east side of the isle; it petrifies into a white substance, of which very fine lime is made, and there is a great quantity of it. There is a quarry of good stone on the same side of the isle; there is abundance of caves on the west side, which serve to lodge several families, who for their convenience in grazing, fishing, &c., resort thither in the summer. On the west side, particularly near to the village Clachan, the shore abounds with smooth stones of different sizes, variegated all over. The same cattle, fowl, and fish are produced here that are found in the isle of Skye. There is a law observed by the natives that all their fishing lines must be of equal length, for the longest is always supposed to have best access to the fish, which would prove a disadvantage to such as might have shorter ones.

There are some forts in this isle, the highest is in the south end; it is a natural strength, and in form like the crown of a hat; it is called Dun-Cann, which the natives will needs have to be from one Canne, cousin to the king of Denmark. The other lies on the side, is an artificial fort, three stories high, and is called Castle Vreokle.[39]

Brochel Castle, as it is more commonly known, was built by the MacSweens in the 15th century on the north-east coast of Raasay. Latterly, it became a base for the MacLeod of Lewis's pirating activities prior to Calum Garbh's investiture there. The castle was inhabited until the death by drowning of the Chief Iain Garbh in 1671 and is now a ruin sitting atop a pinnacle. In the meantime the Macleods moved their seat to Raasay House at the south end of the island.[3][40]

Although Protestant, the MacLeods of Raasay supported Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745. After the defeat at the Battle of Culloden, the Prince spent 2 days hiding from the British troops on Raasay[41][42] and as a consequence of the island's support for the Jacobite cause the original Raasay House and many dwellings were burnt down by government troops. In conversation with Malcolm MacLeod of Raasay during his short stay on the island the Prince confided that although his life on the run was hard, he would rather live that way for ten years than be captured as he feared assassination. He seemed less aware of the risks his supporters ran. The atrocities perpetrated in the aftermath of Culloden were a shock to him. Of Cumberland he said: "Surely that man who calls himself a duke and pretends to be so great a general cannot be guilty of such cruelties. I cannot believe it."[43]

The cliffs of Creag na Bruaich, south of Brochel Castle

In 1773 James Boswell and Samuel Johnson arrived on the island during their Hebridean tour. They visited Raasay House and Johnson wrote:

Our reception exceeded our expectations. We found nothing but civility, elegance, and plenty. After the usual refreshments, and the usual conversation, the evening came upon us. The carpet was then rolled off the floor; the musician was called, and the whole company was invited to dance, nor did ever fairies trip with greater alacrity. The general air of festivity, which predominated in this place, so far remote from all those regions which the mind has been used to contemplate as the mansions of pleasure, struck the imagination with a delightful surprise, analogous to that which is felt at an unexpected emersion from darkness into light.

When it was time to sup, the dance ceased, and six and thirty persons sat down to two tables in the same room. After supper the ladies sung Erse songs, to which I listened as an English audience to an Italian opera, delighted with the sound of words which I did not understand.[44]

Boswell went exploring and described the island as follows:

Having resolved to explore the island of Rasay, which could be done only on foot, I last night obtained my fellow-traveller’s permission to leave him for a day, he being unable to take so hardy a walk. Old Mr Malcolm M’Cleod, who had obligingly promised to accompany me, was at my bedside between five and six. I sprang up immediately, and he and I, attended by two other gentlemen, traversed the country during the whole of this day. Though we had passed over not less than four-and-twenty miles of very rugged ground, and had a Highland dance on the top of Dùn Can, the highest mountain in the island, we returned in the evening not at all fatigued, and piqued ourselves at not being outdone at the nightly ball by our less active friends, who had remained at home.

My survey of Rasay did not furnish much which can interest my readers; I shall therefore put into as short a compass as I can, the observations upon it, which I find registered in my journal. It is about fifteen English miles long, and four broad. On the south side is the laird’s family seat, situated on a pleasing low spot. The old tower of three stories, mentioned by Martin, was taken down soon after 1746, and a modern house supplies its place. There are very good grass-fields and corn-lands about it, well dressed. I observed, however, hardly any inclosures, except a good garden plentifully stocked with vegetables, and strawberries, raspberries, currants, &c.[45]

Raasay House

Iron ore mine

In 1843 the last laird, John Macleod, was deep in debt and chose to emigrate to Tasmania[40] having sold Raasay for 35,000 guineas to George Rainy. After the failure of the potato harvests in the 1840s, the new owner decided to convert as much arable land as possible to sheep farming. This required the removal of the islanders, and his solution was to ban marriage. Several townships were cleared including Hallaig and Screapadal. Two boatloads of emigrants left for Portland in Australia in 1854 as a result, and another 165 left for the same destination in 1865. The estate was then sold to Edward Wood, and conflicts between the laird and the islanders grew as he decided to turn the island over to sporting purposes.[46] On 20 September 1862 the steamship Irishman ran aground on "Skernataid Rock" between Raasay and Scalpay. A 9.2 m (30 ft 2 in) vessel Spindrift is also recorded as having become jammed under the ferry pier at the sound end of the island and broken in two by the rising tide at an unspecified date.[47][lower-alpha 4]

Near Oskaig, there is a row of six houses which are known as Manitoba.[48] Locals believe that this was a gathering place for people about to embark on emigrating to Canada in the late 19th century.

William Baird and Company signed a deed to purchase the estate of the Island of Raasay on 28 December 1910. The sale completed on 15 May 1911.[49]

In May 1921, a group of crofters from Rona landed on Raasay and attempted to re-occupy their ancestral land. These so-called "Raasay Raiders" were arrested, tried and given prison sentences, but public support for them was strong and they were eventually freed and allowed to remain on Raasay.

The island was purchased by the government in 1922 after the mine closed. In 1949 The Forestry Commission was granted land bringing much-needed employment, and in 1956 The North of Scotland Hydro-Electric Board delivered mains electricity to the island.[50] The power was generated by Storr Lochs Hydro-Electric Scheme, which was commissioned in 1952 and upgraded in 1956. Local residents and invited guests met at Balmeanach, on Skye, on 14 March 1956. Major General Harry Macdonald, who owned the Braes estate, operated the switch, and rockets were fired from Raasay to confirm that electricity had arrived through the undersea cable, which ran from An Aird in Braes to Suishnish. The guests were then transported to Raasay in fishing boats to complete the celebrations.[51] In the 1960s Raasay House and various other properties were purchased by John Green, a doctor residing in Sussex who visited the island only once and whose lack of interest in it earned him the sobriquet "Dr No". Having purchased the property for £8,000 he sold it to the Highlands and Islands Development Board in 1979 for £135,000.[3][40][52][53]

Around this time, Manchester-born Alan Evans (who lived in Loanhead and worked for Ferranti, but owned several small properties around Raasay) set up Isle of Raasay Enterprises, a private initiative intended to encourage local enterprise such as the production of tourist postcards. Little progress was made before his death in 1967 but he is remembered by the Allan Evans Memorial Hostel (closed 2014) at Creachan, a remote cottage he had bequeathed to the SYHA.[54]

Nicholson reported an early bloomery on the island.[55] The next record of ironstone on Raasay was by HB Woodward in 1893.[56] Stead investigated the outcrop in 1909 and the subsequent analysis by Tatlock convinced Baird's to buy the island the following year (with completion in 1912).[57]

Baird's original plan was for a railway from the outcrop site down to just south of Suisnish point[lower-alpha 5] with the erection of five kilns. Objections led to the plan being revised for two kilns further south, where the current pier is.[49] This pier was a public pier with landing charges regulated by government order.[58] By the outbreak of war Baird's had completed the pier (constructed by Robert McAlpine & Sons), kilns, railway and "other works".[59][60]

To house the workforce Baird's planned the village of Inverarish Houses, today known as Inverarish Terrace. The village consists of two facing rows of houses, each row being two terraces of 16 houses each. Between the terraces is a broad open area. Numbers 1–32 are the western row, 33–64 the eastern. The lower, southern terraces were built first (1–16 and 33–48) between 1912 and 1913. The first terraces were stone built and by 1914–15 were about half occupied.[59] By the time of the 1915–16 valuation some of numbers 1–16 were unoccupied, just over half of numbers 33–48 were occupied and the newly built brick terrace of numbers 17–32 were also vacant.[61] The unoccupied houses were caused by many of the labour force being called to the colours.

With the introduction of unrestricted submarine warfare in 1916 the Ministry of Munitions became concerned about the availability of foreign iron ore.[62] Baird's were one company amongst others which opened up domestic mines in order to supply the war effort. In May 1916 Baird's signed an agreement to run the mine on behalf of the Ministry, although there was a minor skirmish over the amount of processing to be done on the island.[63] The first prisoners were on the island by June and were housed in the upper part of the village, numbers 17–32 and the now completed 49–64. This northern part of the village was converted into a prisoner-of-war camp by the simple expedient of building a barbed wire fence around it and erecting sentry boxes and arc lamps at the corners.[61]

John MacKay, born on Raasay in 1767, was supported by the MacLeod Chief as the foremost island piper of his day and an inheritor of the MacCrimmon tradition. His son Angus published a collection of pibroch music in staff notation and was the first Piper to the Sovereign.[40]

The poet Sorley MacLean was born in Osgaig, a small crofting community on the west coast of the island; perhaps his most famous poem is about Hallaig, an abandoned community on the east coast. MacLean's writings often combine an ancient traditional awareness, with a modernist political outlook, in which Raasay, and the areas adjacent to it are frequently referenced. But while MacLean's work dwells on the brutality of war, of the Highland Clearances and modern exploitation, he also writes about nature. Thus, although the Clearances leave an empty landscape populated only by the ghosts of those evicted or forced to emigrate, "Time, the deer, is in the Wood of Hallaig".[67]

The two miles (3 km) of road between Brochel Castle and Arnish were built using hand-tools by Calum MacLeod BEM over ten years. Only when complete was the road surfaced by the local council; by then Calum and his wife were the last inhabitants of Arnish. Calum's Road has been commemorated in music both by Capercaillie on their 1988 album The Blood is Strong[68] and by Runrig in Wall of China from the album The Stamping Ground, as well as in a book by Roger Hutchinson.[69] The BBC Radio 4 drama Calum's Road, based on Hutchinson's book and dramatised by Colin MacDonald, was first broadcast on 5 October 2013 starring Ian McDiarmid as Calum MacLeod.[70]

The composer Sir Harrison Birtwistle lived on Raasay from 1975 to 1983.[71] His Duets for Storab, takes its name from Storab, a Viking prince who was shipwrecked and sought refuge on Raasay.[72] Birtwistle's string quartet, The Tree of Strings, written in 2007, takes its title from a poem by Sorley MacLean.[73]