Hot Springs, Chang Chenmo Valley

Hot Springs (traditional name: Kyam[2]) is a campsite and the location of an Indian border outpost in the Chang Chenmo River valley in Ladakh near the disputed border with China. It is so named because there is a hot spring at this location.[2] The Line of Actual Control near Kongka Pass is only 3 kilometres (2 mi) to the east.[3]

This article is about the Indian border outpost. For the Chinese border outpost, see Wenquan, Changlung Valley.

Hot Springs
Kyam
Border checkpost
Hot Springs is located in Ladakh
Hot Springs
Hot Springs
Hot Springs is located in India
Hot Springs
Hot Springs
Coordinates: 34°17′58″N 78°57′00″E
Country India
Union territoryLadakh
DistrictLeh
Elevation
[1]
4,700 m (15,400 ft)

Name

Historically, the name for the hot spring was Kyam[2] (Kiam, Kayam[4]). The Chinese still refer to it by this name.[5]

Geography
Changchenmo Valley in a Survey of India map of 1916

Geologist Frederic Drew states that the Chang Chenmo river flows on a barren gravel bed, with occasional alluvial patches where vegetation is found. Hot Springs is one such location. In the vicinity are also other such patches, named Pamzal, Tsogtsalu (or Tsolu) and Gogra. They were historical halting places for travellers and trading caravans, with a supply of water, fuel and fodder. Nomadic Ladakhi graziers also used them for grazing cattle.[6]

A large tributary called Kugrang joins the Chang Chenmo River near Hot Springs. Gogra is in the valley of the Kugrang River, northwest of Hot Springs. The Changlung River flows in from the northeast to join Kugrang at this location.[6][7][8]

According to the Gazetteer of Kashmir and Ladak, there are "celebrated" hot springs at Kyam, which were visited by the Ladakhis of the Pangong district and the Tibetans of the Rudok district. The water had a temperature of 179 °F (82 °C) in August and was suffused with soda and sulphur. The local people believed that it was beneficial for ailments like rheumatism.[9] The springs are believed to arise from the geological fault represented by the Changchenmo Valley, which separates the Paleozoic, Triassic and Jurassic rocks of the Karakoram range to the north from the older Paleozoic rocks to the south.[10][lower-alpha 1]

Transport

Within India, it is reachable via Tsogtsalu, which is further connected to mainland India via two motorable roads, the "Phobrang-Marsimik La-Tsogtsalu-Hot Springs Road" (PMTHR) or "Marsimik La Road" via Phobrang-Marsimik La-Tsogstsalu to Hot Springs,[12] [13][14] and via the other alternate route the 55 km long "Changchenmo-Tsogtsalu Road" (CTR) from confluence of Changchenmo & Shyok River to Tsogtsalu.[15]

History

In the late 1800s, the Maharaja Ranbir Singh at the request of the British made improvements to the trails and facilities of the Gogra campsite in order to improve trade with Yarkand.[16] The valley was also a popular hunting spot for British officers on leave.[8][17]

In Autumn 1959, the Kongka Pass incident occurred near here. At the time, the Central Reserve Police Force (CRPF) personnel[lower-alpha 2] were given the mandate of constructing this camp.[3] During the construction, the scouting team was captured by the PLA who had advanced to Kongka Pass since the previous years. On 21 October, the search team tasked to find the missing scouts encountered the Chinese and were caught in a firefight. That led to the death of 9 members during the firefight and 1 member later due to his injuries.[lower-alpha 3][4][20] They have been since honored as martyrs by the law enforcement in India annually on this day. In the 1960s, a Police Memorial was erected here at Hot Springs.[21]

See also
Hot Springs, Chang Chenmo Valley
Traditional Chinese（基阿姆）溫泉
Simplified Chinese（基阿姆）温泉

Notes
  1. The Changchenmo depression is now recognized as a geological fault called the Longmu Co fault, part of the larger Longmu–Gozha Co fault system.[11]
  2. The units manning the post were called "Indo-Tibetan Border Force" but they were regular members of the CRPF.[18] The present Indo-Tibetan Border Police was raised later in 1962.
  3. B. N. Mullik dedicated his book "The Chinese Betrayal" to the nine policemen who lost their lives on 21 October 1959 near Hot Springs.[19]

References
  1. Gazetteer of Kashmir and Ladak (1890), p. 496.
  2. Geological Survey of India (1883). Lydekker: The Geology of Kashmir and Chamba Territories and the British District of Khagan. Memoirs of the Geological Survey of India. Vol. XXII. Government of India. p. 44. Gogra and Kyam"" In the Changchenmo valley near the halting place Gogra (Gokra) and Kyam (Kium) hot springs are numerous. ... The spring at Kyam has a temperature of 147°F.
  3. Jindal, Akash (November–December 2018). "The Story of Hot Springs" (PDF). Indian Police Journal. No. Special Issue on Police Martyrdom. pp. 20–33. ISSN 0537-2429. Retrieved 4 January 2020. (p. 22) Karam Singh of ITBF was assigned the task of establishing outposts near the Chinese Occupation Line ... "Hot Springs" was barely three Km far from the site where Chinese Army had intruded.
  4. "Notes, Memoranda and letters Exchanged and Agreements signed between The Governments of India and China" (PDF). White Paper III. Ministry of External Affairs, Government of India. November 1959 – March 1960. Retrieved 4 January 2020 – via Claude Arpi. [Chinese interrogation of Karam Singh] We established a checkpost at Kayam and we had to establish one at Shamul Lungpa. On 20th October, 1959, our two men missed. On the morning of 21st October 1959 Tyagi took 60 men and reached the hill (battle field). ... [Indian debriefing of Karam Singh] we had inadequate cover and the Chinese were in a favourable position ... five of us were made to carry the dead body of a Chinese soldier who had been killed.
  5. "中华人民共和国外交部给印度驻华大使馆的照会（1965年9月16日）" [Note by the Chinese Foreign Ministry to the Indian Embassy in China (16 September 1965)] (in Chinese). RedChinaCn.net. 16 August 2017. Retrieved 4 January 2020. 基阿姆温泉建立哨所
  6. Drew, Frederic (1875). The Jummoo and Kashmir Territories: A Geographical Account. E. Stanford. pp. 329–330 – via archive.org.
  7. Ward, A.E. (1896). The Tourist's And--sportsman's Guide to Kashmir and Ladak, &c. Thacker, Spink. p. 106. The Changlung stream joins the Kugrang near Gogra
  8. Hayward, G. W. (1870). "Journey from Leh to Yarkand and Kashgar, and Exploration of the Sources of the Yarkand River". Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London. 40: 33–37. doi:10.2307/1798640. ISSN 0266-6235. JSTOR 1798640. (p. 33) 'Kiam' and 'Gogra' located near bottom of last map insert ... (p. 37) Chang Chenmo is now well known, being visited every year by at least half-a-dozen officers on long leave to Kashmir. The game to be found...
  9. Gazetteer of Kashmir and Ladak (1890), pp. 496–497.
  10. Trinkler, Emil (1931), "Notes on the Westernmost Plateaux of Tibet", The Himalayan Journal, 3
  11. Chevalier, Marie-Luce; Pan, Jiawei; Li, Haibing; Sun, Zhiming; Liu, Dongliang; Pei, Junling; Xu, Wei; Wu, Chan (2017). "First tectonic-geomorphology study along the Longmu–Gozha Co fault system, Western Tibet". Gondwana Research. 41: 411–424. Bibcode:2017GondR..41..411C. doi:10.1016/j.gr.2015.03.008. ISSN 1342-937X.
  12. India boosts road links to LAC standoff points, Indian Express, 2nd July 2023.
  13. Forbidden zones in Ladakh to soon welcome tourists, Times of India, 26 May 2023.
  14. "Amid Doklam standoff, MHA asks BRO to build stand-alone road for access to vantage points". The Indian Express. 23 August 2017.
  15. [https://m.economictimes.com/epaper/delhicapital/2023/aug/03/et-poli/over-20-strategic-roads-close-to-lac-have-year-end-deadline/articleshow/102366166.cms Over 20 strategic roads close to LAC have the ear and deadline], The Economic Times, 3 Aug 2023.
  16. Accounts and Papers. East India. Vol. XLIX. House of Commons, British Parliament. 1874. pp. 23–33. (p. 23) From Gogra there are two routes to Shadula in Yarkand (p. 33) Every endeavour has been made to improve the Changchenmo route--serais having been built at some places, and depots of grain established as far as Gogra
  17. H.I.N. (1902). "Sport in the Changchenmo Valley, Ladakh". The Navy and Army Illustrated. Vol. 15. London: Hudson & Kearns. p. iv.
  18. Martyrs of CRPF, police.gov.in (Indian Police web site), Retrieved 29 January 2020.
  19. Mullik, BN (1971). My Years with Nehru--The Chinese Betrayal. Allied. pp. Dedication page – via archive.org and PAHAR. To the memory of THE NINE POLICEMEN (capitalization in text) who were killed by the Chinese near Hotsprings in Ladakh on October 21, 1959, and who, by their supreme sacrifice, made the country aware of the true nature of Communist China.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: date and year (link)
  20. Bhatnagar, R.R. (November–December 2018). "Hot Springs: Saga of Heroism" (PDF). Indian Police Journal. No. Special Issue on Police Martyrdom. p. 16. ISSN 0537-2429. Retrieved 4 January 2020. Fighting gallantly nine men laid down their lives and ten were wounded. Later on, one of the injured also succumbed to his injuries. ... Seven men were taken Prisoners of War by PLA
  21. Bhatnagar, R.R. (November–December 2018). "Hot Springs: Saga of Heroism" (PDF). Indian Police Journal. No. Special Issue on Police Martyrdom. pp. 14–19. ISSN 0537-2429. Retrieved 4 January 2020. (p. 17) Ceremonial Homage being paid at Hot Springs Memorial in 1960's (p. 18) The day 21st Oct is befittingly observed as "Police Commemoration Day" and every year, members of police forces from different parts of the country trek to Hot Springs which is currently manned by ITBP to pay homage to the brave hearts who made the supreme sacrifice on 21st October 1959.
  22. Snehesh Alex Philip, 14th round of military talks fails to break Hot Springs logjam, breakthrough 'likely next time', The Print, 13 January 2022.

Bibliography
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