Punjabi ghagra suit

The head scarf generally consists of a large Phulkari embroidered using local designs.

Kurta/kurti

The upper garment is traditionally either a long kurta or a kurti which is a short coat.[13] The kurta is a remnant of the kurtaka which was short and had side slits. It was in use in the 11th century C.E.and provides a link to the kurta of the Punjab region.[14]

The kurti is a short cotton coat[15] or a mini anga (dress)[16] without side slits which is believed to have descended from the tunic of the Shunga period (2nd century B.C.).[17] The kurti during the early 1700s buttoned to the right[18] but later versions buttoned down the centre.

• 
  Saraiki kurti

Angi/Choli

The angi is the Punjabi name for the bodice which is a short sleeved vest which covers the breast but leaves the chest partly bare and the abdomen wholly exposed.[19] The angi can be worn with the kurti. The angi when worn on its own is called the choli, which covers the chest[20] and has a slip running further down in front. It has short sleeves and is tied behind.[21] The angi differs from the choli only in having no front slip.

One design of the choli is made of strips (or patches)[22] of many coloured silk or other material. The arms are generally bare and the stomach is left uncovered.[23] The choli is tied at the back with strings.[24] In the middle of the choli, a kubba is dangled which is a hollow knobby ornament with a pendant fixed onto the centre of the choli. The item used is the tukma which is a silver pendant fixed on to the ends of the choli.[25] The choli was a popular alternative to the kurta in the 20th century,[26][27][28][29] and was in use in the Punjab region since at least the 16th century.[30] It is still popular in Multan where the Multani choli is embroidered in different colours or hand printed, tied at the front or the back.[31] Modern versions of the choli are also worn.

• 
  Punjabi Choli with jewellery

Saraiki Tradition women wearing ghagra west Punjab

The ghagra is a long full skirt which can vary from 9 to 25 yards[32] The picture on the right shows the styles worn by Saraiki speaking women in west Punjab. The ghagra is traditionally worn by women of all communities.[33]

In Lahore[34] and East Punjab, the ghagra however was only worn when going outdoors[35] or in some areas, when going to another village in which case the kurta/kurti would be replaced by a choli.[36][37] Women were expected to continue to wear the ghagra over the suthan[38] or the salwar until old age or until at least the eldest child got married.[39] It was also customary to wear the ghagra on festive occasions and when attending funerals. It is still used by elderly ladies and is worn on special occasions.[40] Older Punjabi women living in the United Kingdom recall wearing the ghagra over the salwar.[41]

The materials used for making ghagras can either be chiffon or cotton. The edge is finished with either a row of pin tucks, embroidery, gota or by putting a border of daryai (stiffened cloth). The soft cotton ghagra is traditionally starched (maandi) along with mica or vark which shines in the sun. Vark is similar to thin layers of stiff paper which is crushed and added to maandi (starch).[32] Other materials used for ghagras are hari-shael, latha,[39] saatan (satin), embroidered phulkari, parachute cloth etc. Parachute cloth is a silky material and perhaps similar to the textile used to make parachutes. For formal occasions the ghagra is made of expensive material with some embellishments like gota or embroidery.

It is traditional to wear either a suthan or a salwar under the ghagra.

• 
  Phulkari from Patiala
• 
  Sketch of a woman (right) wearing a suthan
• 
  Punjabi kurta and lehenga
• 
  Bridal lehenga with Gota Embroidery
• 
  Pahari painting depicting women in Luanchari. ca.1760
• 
  Himachal woman in Luanchari
• 
  Rani Jindan (1817-1863) in a ghagra and kurta