Suwon

Suwon (Korean: 수원; Hanja: 水原; lit. Water source[3], Korean: [sʰu.wʌn]) is the capital and largest city of Gyeonggi-do, South Korea's most populous province. Suwon lies approximately 30 km (19 mi) south of the national capital, Seoul. With a population close to 1¼ million, it has more residents than Ulsan Metropolitan City,[1][4] though it has a lesser degree of self-governance as a 'special case city'.[5]

Suwon
수원특례시
Specific city
Korean transcription(s)
 • Hangul수원특례시
 • Hanja水原特例市
 • Revised RomanizationSuwon-teungnyesi
 • McCune–ReischauerSuwŏn-t'ŭkrye-si
From top, left to right:
view of Suwon from Paldalsan Mountain,
Suwon World Cup Stadium,
Hwaseong Haenggung Palace, Hwaseong Fortress,
Gwanggyo Lake Park, Suwon Station
Flag of Suwon
Flag
Official logo of Suwon
Emblem of Suwon
Location in South Korea
Location in South Korea
Coordinates: 37°16′N 127°01′E
Country South Korea
AreaGyeonggi Province (Seoul Capital)
Administrative divisions4 gu, 43 dong
Government
 • TypeMayor-Council
 • MayorLee Jae-jun (Democratic)
 • CouncilSuwon City Council
 • Members of the Gyeonggi Provincial Council
List
 • Members of the National Assembly
List
Area
 • Total121.04 km2 (46.73 sq mi)
Highest elevation
(Gwanggyosan)
582 m (1,909 ft)
Population
 (27 April 2023)
 • Total1,226,873[1]
 • Dialect
Gyeonggi
Area code+82-31-2xx
FlowerAzalea[2]
TreePine[2]
BirdEgret[2]
WebsiteSuwon City Council

Traditionally known as the 'City of Filial Piety',[6] today Suwon retains a variety of historical features. As a walled city, it is a popular destination for day trippers from Seoul,[7] and these city walls appear among the province's more popular sites.

Suwon also plays an important economic role: Samsung Electronics, Korea's largest company by sales,[8] is based in the city. The company's research and development centre is in Yeongtong-gu, where its headquarters have also been located since 2016.[9] Samsung's presence in Suwon is clearly visible: the company is a partner of Sungkyunkwan University,[10] which has its Natural Sciences Campus in the city, and the company owns the four-time K League champions[11] and two-time Asian Super Cup winners[12][13] Suwon Samsung Bluewings.

Suwon is home to several universities, e.g., Sungkyunkwan University, Ajou University,[14] and several football, baseball, basketball, and volleyball teams, including Suwon Samsung Bluewings, Suwon FC, and KT Wiz. The city is served by three expressways, the national railway network, and three lines on the Seoul Metropolitan Subway.

History

Suwon has historically gone by many names. In ancient tribal times, it was known as Mosu-guk (모수국), part of the Mahan confederacy. During the Proto–Three Kingdoms period era, the area that today comprises Suwon and neighbouring Hwaseong was called Maehol-gun (매홀군).[15] In 757, under King Gyeongdeok of Unified Silla, the name was changed to Suseong-gun (수성군). In 940, during the Goryeo Dynasty, it changed again in to Suju (수주).[15] Finally, in 1413, King Taejong of the Joseon Dynasty changed the name to Suwon, the name still in use today,[16] though in the 19th century it was often spelt 'Sou-wen'.[17]

In 1592, during the Imjin wars, Commander Yi Gwang attempted to launch his army toward the capital city, Seoul (at the time named 'Hanseong').[18] The army was withdrawn, however, after news reached the commander that the city had already been sacked.[18] As the army grew to 50,000 men by accumulating several volunteer forces, Yi Gwang and the irregular commanders reconsidered their aim of reclaiming the capital, and led the combined forces north to Suwon.[18]

Relocation of the city centre, and construction of Hwaseong Fortress

In 1796, during the Joseon Dynasty, King Jeongjo relocated the city centre from modern-day Annyeong-dong at the foot of Hwasan (a hill in Hwasan-dong, Hwaseong City) to its current location to the east of Paldalsan.[19] To protect this new city, he instructed that Hwaseong Fortress be built, and this fortified wall encompassed the entire city.[20]

Hwaseong was originally built under the guidance of philosopher Jeong Yak-yong, and its construction was one of Korea's first examples of paid labour, corvée labour having been common previously.[21] Shortly after King Jeongjo's death in 1800, Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe (화성 성역 의궤; 華城城域儀軌) was published. This document—more precise that other such construction records from the time—exhaustively detailed the construction of the fortress.[22] Since Hwaseong was damaged severely during the Korean War, this meticulous record of its construction has proven invaluable during reconstruction efforts from 1964 to the present day.[20]

Though Suwon was once entirely encircled by the fortress, modern urban growth has seen the city spread out far beyond the walls.[23] The fortress is now a designated UNESCO World Heritage site,[20] and it is often featured in the city and province's promotional materials.

Japanese occupation

It appears that a focal point in Suwon's resistance to Japanese occupation was Adams Memorial Hall, at 342 Suwoncheon-ro, Maehyang,dong, Paldal-gu (37°17′03″N 127°01′08″E). Under Pastor William Noble, this 1923 building was constructed in Samil Middle School grounds with funding from a church in North Adams, Massachusetts, from the Suwon Jongno Church (830 Jeongjo-ro, Buksu-dong, 37°16′55″N 127°01′01″E), and from local residents. Here, independence activists including Park Seon-tae and Lee Deuk-su met weekly to discuss their rebellion.[24]

Adams Memorial Hall
Adams Memorial Hall

Korean War

When the Korean War began, the United States Air Force 49th Fighter Wing, then stationed in Japan, was sent to Korea[25] with an initial mission of evacuating civilians from Suwon and Gimpo.[26] While on this mission, on 27 June 1950, US planes in Suwon were attacked by North Korean fighters, and the Battle of Suwon Airfield became the first aerial combat of the war. Suwon Airfield was attacked again two days later while General Douglas MacArthur was on site.[27] Though the US repelled these attacks, Suwon fell to the advancing North Koreans one week later, on 4 July 1950.[28] The Battle of Osan, the first conflict between United States and North Korean forces, occurred the following day. Defences were erected on the road between occupied Suwon and still-southern Osan. As Northern troops advanced south, a 3½-hour battle ensued in which 150 United States and 42 North Korean soldiers were killed, and the US troops were forced to retreat. The North Korean advance southwards to Osan was delayed by an estimated seven hours.[29][30]

North Korean T-34-85 caught on a bridge south of Suwon by US attack aircraft in the Korean War

In the early days of the war, southern authorities feared left-leaning civilians, and many were killed. Eyewitness account from US intelligence officer Donald Nichols places Suwon as the location of a massacre of approximately 1,800 suspected Communist civilians by South Korean authorities on 28, 29, or 30 June 1950 (depending on source).[31][32][33]

On 16 December 1950, the Greek Expeditionary Force relocated from Busan to Suwon, attached to the US 1st Cavalry Division.[34] In late 1951, the United States Air Force's top fighter pilot Gabby Gabreski was placed in charge of Suwon Air Base, also known then as K-13.[26][35]

In total, Suwon changed hands four times during the war.

A memorial to the French forces was erected in 1974 in Jangan-gu, near the Yeongdong Expressway's North Suwon exit (37°19′40″N 126°59′08″E).[36] This was renovated in 2013.[37]

Recent history

In 1949, Seoul left Gyeonggi-do,[38] and in the same year, Suwon-eup in Suwon-gun became Suwon City while the remainder of Suwon-gun became Hwaseong-gun.[39] Suwon became the capital of Gyeonggi-do on 23 June 1967, when the provincial office was relocated from Seoul.[40]

On 1 January 1963, Suwon expanded greatly as Cheoncheon-ri, Daehwanggyo-ri, Gokbanjeong-ri, Gosaek-ri, Guun-ri, Gwonseon-ri, Hagwanggyo-ri, Imok-ri, Jangji-ri, Jeongja-ri, Jowon-ri, Maetan-ri, Omokcheon-ri, Pajang-ri, Pyeong-ri, Sanggwanggyo-ri, Songjuk-ri, Tap-ri, Woncheon-ri, and Yuljeon-ri were incorporated from Hwaseong-gun.[41] On 15 February 1983, further expansion saw Ha-ri and Iui-ri switch from Yongin to Suwon.[42] On 1 January 1987, Suwon expanded westwards as Geumgok-ri and Homaesil-ri were acquired from Maesong-myeon in Hwaseong.[43][44] Yeongtong-ri transferred from Hwaseong to Suwon on 26 December 1994 along with parts of Sin-ri and Mangpo-ri, and part of Yeongdeok-ri from Yongin.[45] The remainder of Sun-ri and Mangpo-ri joined Suwon on 20 April 1995.

On 9 May 2007, in preparation for the construction of the new town of Gwanggyo, there was a two-way exchange of land between Ha-dong in Suwon and neighbouring Sanghyeon-dong in Yongin.[46][47] A similar exchange on 13 September 2019 saw parcels of land switch sides between Woncheon-dong in Suwon, and Yongin's Yeongdeok-dong.[48][49] With further boundary changes on 24 July 2020, parts of Shin-dong and Mangpo-dong in Suwon and Banjeong-dong in Hwaseong were exchanged.[50]

Geography

Suwon lies in the north of the Gyeonggi plain, just south of South Korea's capital, Seoul. It is bordered by Uiwang to the north-west, Yongin to the east, the city of Hwaseong to the south-west, and Ansan to the west. At its closest point, on the 239-metre (784 ft) Chilbosan ridge to the west, Suwon lies 18.2 km (11.3 mi) from the western tip of Ueumdo in Sihwa Lake, an inlet of the Yellow Sea cordoned off to drive the world's largest tidal power station.[51]

Topography

There are several hills around Suwon, the highest of which is Gwanggyosan [582 m (1,909 ft), 37°20′41″N 127°02′01″E], to the north of the city, bordering Yongin.[52]

Water flow

Most of the streams passing through Suwon originate on Gwanggyosan or other nearby peaks to the north of the city. Since Suwon is bounded to the west by Chilbosan and to the east by other hills, the streams, chiefly the Suwoncheon and Seohocheon, flow southwards through the city, joining the Hwanggujicheon, and eventually emptying into the Yellow Sea at Asan Bay. The entirety of Suwon is drained in this manner.[53]

Lakes

There are few natural lakes on South Korea's mainland, and none in Suwon. There are, however, many small reservoirs, namely Chungmanje (축만제), otherwise known as Seoho (서호, 37°16′39″N 126°59′19″E) near Hwaseo Station, Irwol Reservoir (일원 저수지, 37°17′15″N 126°58′23″E) near Sungkyunkwan University, Bambat Reservoir (밤밭 저수지, 37°18′23″N 126°58′16″E) near Sungkyunkwan University Station, Ilwang Reservoir (일왕 저수지, 37°17′58″N 127°00′03″E), otherwise called Manseokkeo (만석거) in Manseok Park, Pajang Reservoir (파장 저수지, 37°19′41″N 126°59′41″E) near the North Suwon exit of the Yeongdong Expressway, Gwanggyo Reservoir (광교 저수지, 37°18′24″N 127°01′41″E) and Hagwanggyo Reservoir (하광교 소류지, 37°19′29″N 127°01′39″E) at the foot of Gwanggyosan, Woncheon and Sindae Reservoirs (원천 저수지, 37°16′45″N 127°03′45″E; 신대 저수지, 37°17′09″N 127°04′26″E) in Gwanggyo Lake Park, and Geumgok Reservoir (금곡 저수지, 37°16′32″N 126°56′39″E), a small lake at the foot of Chilbosan. Wangsong Reservoir (왕송 저수지, 37°18′22″N 126°56′50″E), on the northern Uiwang border, used to be partly in Suwon, but after controversial boundary changes, it is now entirely in Uiwang.[54]

Geology

Suwon is primarily composed of Precambrian metamorphic rock, and has amphibolites that intrude through these, and also granites from the Mesozoic Era.[55]

Precambrian gneiss

Biotite gneiss (Precambrian biotite gneiss, PCEbgn) is found in northern Suwon, specifically Pajang-dong, Gwanggyo-dong, Woncheon-dong, and Maetan-dong. Visible rocks here are composed of quartz, feldspar, biotite, amphibole, and muscovite; and are generally dark gray or dark green. Mesozoic biotite granite intrudes through these.[55]

Precambrian quartzo-feldspathic gneiss (PCEqgn) is distributed in some mountainous areas in Hagwanggyo-dong and Sanggwanggyo-dong in northern Suwon. This gneiss has undergone silicification most predominantly, and is mainly composed of quartz, feldspar, biotite, and muscovite. It is grey, dark grey, grey-brown, and white.[55]

Mesozoic intrusive rocks

Biotite granite (Jbgr) from the Jurassic period of the Mesozoic Era constitutes most of Suwon, and is centred on Paldalsan (37°16′44″N 127°00′37″E). It is a form of Daebo granite, and is distributed through Homaesil-dong, Geumgok-dong, Dangsu-dong, Seryu-dong, Seodun-dong, Gwonseon-dong, and other areas. The main constituent minerals are quartz, plagioclase, orthotic, biotite, and amphibole.[55]

Fault

Suwon's single fault splits from the Singal Fault in Iui-dong, Yeongtong-gu, creating the Woncheonri Stream, and follows this stream to Ha-dong, Woncheon-dong, and Maetan-dong. It joins the Hwangguji Stream in Annyeong-dong, Hwaseong City. This is a 20 km-long vertical fault running SSW, eventually to the Yellow Sea. In Suwon, biotite gneiss and biotite granite are brought into contact by this fault.[55]

Climate

Suwon has a humid continental climate (Köppen: Dwa), but can be considered a borderline humid subtropical climate (Köppen: Cwa) using the −3 °C (27 °F) isotherm.

Climate data for Suwon (1991–2020 normals, extremes 1964–present)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 15.3
(59.5)		 19.3
(66.7)		 25.0
(77.0)		 30.5
(86.9)		 33.2
(91.8)		 34.0
(93.2)		 37.5
(99.5)		 39.3
(102.7)		 33.7
(92.7)		 29.0
(84.2)		 25.8
(78.4)		 17.8
(64.0)		 39.3
(102.7)
Average high °C (°F) 2.8
(37.0)		 5.6
(42.1)		 11.3
(52.3)		 18.2
(64.8)		 23.6
(74.5)		 27.5
(81.5)		 29.3
(84.7)		 30.3
(86.5)		 26.4
(79.5)		 20.4
(68.7)		 12.5
(54.5)		 4.9
(40.8)		 17.7
(63.9)
Daily mean °C (°F) −2.1
(28.2)		 0.3
(32.5)		 5.7
(42.3)		 12.0
(53.6)		 17.6
(63.7)		 22.2
(72.0)		 25.3
(77.5)		 26.0
(78.8)		 21.4
(70.5)		 14.6
(58.3)		 7.2
(45.0)		 0.1
(32.2)		 12.5
(54.5)
Average low °C (°F) −6.6
(20.1)		 −4.5
(23.9)		 0.6
(33.1)		 6.4
(43.5)		 12.3
(54.1)		 17.9
(64.2)		 22.1
(71.8)		 22.7
(72.9)		 17.1
(62.8)		 9.4
(48.9)		 2.4
(36.3)		 −4.2
(24.4)		 8.0
(46.4)
Record low °C (°F) −24.8
(−12.6)		 −25.8
(−14.4)		 −11.3
(11.7)		 −4.7
(23.5)		 2.3
(36.1)		 7.8
(46.0)		 13.2
(55.8)		 13.0
(55.4)		 3.6
(38.5)		 −3.6
(25.5)		 −12.6
(9.3)		 −24.4
(−11.9)		 −25.8
(−14.4)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 18.1
(0.71)		 28.3
(1.11)		 40.7
(1.60)		 71.6
(2.82)		 95.0
(3.74)		 122.9
(4.84)		 385.1
(15.16)		 296.3
(11.67)		 133.5
(5.26)		 54.1
(2.13)		 48.9
(1.93)		 25.8
(1.02)		 1,320.3
(51.98)
Average precipitation days (≥ 0.1 mm) 6.7 6.2 7.0 8.0 8.6 9.6 15.4 14.0 8.6 6.1 9.0 8.3 107.5
Average snowy days 6.9 5.3 2.2 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.8 6.8 23.1
Average relative humidity (%) 63.0 61.9 62.2 62.1 66.1 71.4 79.9 77.6 73.2 69.8 67.9 64.4 68.3
Mean monthly sunshine hours 174.3 178.7 205.7 214.5 229.7 195.0 138.2 168.7 184.6 208.9 162.5 166.2 2,227
Percent possible sunshine 54.0 56.2 53.4 54.6 50.4 42.8 30.5 39.5 48.8 57.4 51.6 53.4 48.6
Source: Korea Meteorological Administration (percent sunshine 1981–2010)[56][57][58]

Administrative divisions
See also: Administrative divisions of South Korea
Districts of Suwon

The city is composed of four gu (districts).[14] Jangan-gu (장안구) and Gwonseon-gu (권선구) were established on 1 July 1988, and on 1 February 1993, parts of Jangan-gu and Gwonseon-gu became a new district, Paldal-gu (팔달구). The newest district is Yeongtong-gu (영통구), which separated from Paldal-gu on 24 November 2003. These districts are in turn divided into 42 dong.[59]

There are several new "towns" in Suwon, such as Homaesil and Gwanggyo. The latter is perhaps the most notable of these: the first stage of construction of this large residential area in eastern Suwon was completed in 2011.[60] Gwanggyo is in Yeongtong-gu, which has Gyeonggi-do's seventh most expensive housing.[61]

Demography

Suwon is 50.3% male (49.7% female), and 2.82% foreign. On average, there are 2.31 residents per household. Further details for each district are shown below.[1]

Total people Korean males Korean females Korean (total) Foreign males Foreign females Foreign (total)
Suwon (total) 1,226,873[1] 600,239 591,986 1,192,225 17,211 17,437 34,648
Gwonseon-gu 376,541 185,722 181,896 367,618 4,307 4,616 8,923
Jangan-gu 275,983 135,528 133,875 269,403 3,263 3,317 6,580
Paldal-gu 204,560 97,354 96,009 193,363 5,750 5,447 11,197
Yeongtong-gu 369,789 181,635 180,206 361,841 3,891 4,057 7,948

Religion
See also: Religion in South Korea

Suwon has churches from a variety of Christian denominations, and a range of Buddhist temples.

The Catholic Diocese of Suwon was created in 1963 by Pope Paul VI.[62][63] The cathedral is at 39 Imok-ro, Jeongja-dong (37°18′38″N 126°59′06″E).

The former president of the Baptist World Alliance, Kim Janghwan (Billy Kim), was born in Suwon,[64] and founded the Central Baptist Church,[65] though this is located in Yongin.

Mireukdang
Mireukdang

Mireukdang (Korean: 미륵당; Hanja: 彌勒堂, 37°19′16″N 126°59′20″E) is a small shrine to Maitreya in Pajang-dong, Jangan-gu. Its religious basis is a fusion of Buddhism and traditional local religions.

Crime

The following table tallies crimes in Suwon reported in 2021.[66]

Suwon crime statistics, 2021
Category Crime Number
Property crime Theft 4,202
Possession of stolen property 8
Fraud 6,183
Embezzlement 1,277
Breach of trust 70
Destruction 1,510
Violent crime (serious) Murder 16
Robbery 7
Arson 28
Sexual assault 934
Violent crime (lesser) Violence 2,988
Injury 429
Intimidation 540
Extortion 159
Kidnapping, abduction 4
False arrest, confinement 33
Violation of The Punishment of Violence, Etc. Act (e.g., burglary) 29
Violation of The Punishment of Violences, Etc. Act (e g., Formation of illegal organizations, and such activities) 0
Forgery Currency 7
Valuable securities, revenue stamp, postage 2
Documents 228
Seal 11
Public official crime Abandonment of duties 18
Abuse of authority 30
Receiving bribes 2
Giving bribes 0
Crime against morality Gambling, lotteries 1,342
Deceased person 1
Other obscene acts 79
Negligence Inflicting bodily injury or death through negligence 52
Inflicting bodily injury or death through occupational negligence 47
Fire caused by negligence 57
Misc. Defamation 759
Obstruction of rights 134
Credit business, auction 438
Trespass 439
Violation of secrecy 4
Abandonment 5
Traffic obstruction 10
Obstruction of official duties 186
Escape, harbouring criminals 4
Perjury, destruction, and concealment of evidence 83
False accusation 108
Breach of the peace 4
Insurrection 0
Drinking water crimes 0
Water use crimes 0

Illegal dumping of household waste has been a problem in Suwon, and the city council responded to this by increasing urban greenery. This approach seems to have had some effect.[67]

Education

Colleges and universities
Sungkyunkwan University library

There are several universities and colleges in Suwon, including Sungkyunkwan University's Natural Sciences Campus, Kyonggi University, Ajou University, Dongnam Health University, Gukje Cyber University, Hapdong Theological Seminary, and Suwon Women's University. Despite their names, the University of Suwon and Suwon Science College are not actually in Suwon, but in neighbouring Hwaseong. The agricultural campus of Seoul National University was located in Suwon until 2005, but is now in Gwanak-gu, Seoul near its main campus.[68]

Schools

There are 44 high schools, 57 middle schools, 100 primary schools, and 180 kindergartens in Suwon.[69]

Schools and kindergartens in Suwon
Gwonseon-gu Jangan-gu Paldal-gu Yeongtong-gu Total
Kindergarten Public (dedicated k'gtn) 3 2 1 5 11
Public (in elem. sch.) 32 19 11 23 85
Private 29 21 10 24 84
Elementary school Public 33 22 15 28 98
Private 0 0 0 2 2
Middle School Public 13 13 5 20 51
Private 1 0 4 1 6
High School Public 7 9 3 12 31
Private 2 3 8 0 13

Suwon has three schools dedicated to special education: Jahye School (47 Subong-ro, Tap-dong, Gwonseon-gu, 37°15′55″N 126°58′39″E),[70] Suwon Seokwang School (517 Jangan-ro, Imok-dong, Jangan-gu, 37°19′03″N 126°58′24″E),[71] and Areum School (32 Gwanggyo-ro, Iui-dong, Yeongtong-gu, 37°17′07″N 127°02′23″E).[72] Special education is also provided in some regular schools, e.g., Suwonbuk Middle School.[73]

There is also a centre for lifelong learning at Kyemyung High School (88 Jangan-ro 496 beon-gil, Imok-dong, Jangan-gu, 37°19′16″N 126°58′17″E).

International schools

There are also two international schools in Suwon: Gyeonggi Suwon International School and Suwon Chinese International School (Korean: 수원화교중정소학교; Hanja: 水原華僑中正小學)[74]

Environment

Throughout South Korea, water management is a challenge.[75] Suwon is 11% self-sufficient in its use of water, and plans to increase this to 50% through rainwater harvesting, including building retention facilities; and by treating and reusing sewage.[76]

Air pollution in Suwon appears to be from a range of industrial and other sources, with origins of coarse particulate matter (PM10) shown in the pie chart.[77]

PM10 sources on the Suwon–Yongin border.

  Soil (25.4%)
  Secondary sulphate (produced in the atmosphere by photochemical processes acting on sulphuric compounds) (22.1%)
  Industry and oil combustion (13.8%)
  Secondary nitrate (produced by oxidation of some volatile organic compounds) (12.3%)
  Diesel emissions (12.1%)
  Gasoline emissions (5.6%)
  Sodium-rich sources (5.6%)
  Waste incineration (3.1%)

Industry

The main industrial employer in Suwon is Samsung. Samsung Electronics was founded in Suwon in 1969, and its headquarters are now located with its large R&D complex in central Suwon. The company is the largest employer in Suwon. Samsung's long-standing relationship with the city is seen in its sponsorship of various local sports teams, including Suwon Samsung Bluewings Football Club, and two of the oldest domestic basketball teams in Samsung Thunders and Samsung Life Blueminx, both of which have since moved out of Suwon.[78][79][80][81]

Other major companies in Suwon include SK Chemical,[82] Samsung SDI, and Samsung Electro-Mechanics.

Landmarks

Hwaseong Fortress

Hwaseong Fortress, built under the orders of King Jeongjo in 1796, is Suwon's most notable attraction, and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The entire city used to be encircled by the fortress walls, but Suwon has long since expanded far beyond this boundary. There are four main gates in the walls, and Haenggung Palace in the centre of the fortress.

Hwaseomun (West Gate)
Seojangdae
Banghwasuryujeong
Paldalmun (South Gate)

Hyanggyo

Suwon Hyanggyo (Korean: 수원향교; Hanja: 水原鄕校) was a hyanggyo—a government-run school and Confucian ceremonial centre during the Goryeo and Joseon periods. During the Joseon Dynasty, it was the largest and oldest state school in Gyeonggi-do.[83] The school houses memorial tablets to Confucius, Mencius, and 25 Korean figures noteworthy to Confucianism.[84]

Originally built in 1291[85] beside Hwasan in Wau-ri, Bongdam-myeon, Hwaseong-gun, Suwon Hyanggyo was moved to its current location at 107–9 Hyanggyo-ro, Paldal-gu (37°16′22″N 127°0′44″E) around 1795—the 19th year of King Jeongjo of the Joseon Dynasty—when Hwaseong Fortress was built,[85] and it has since undergone several repairs.

Hyanggyo is open to the public on weekdays from 9 a.m. till 5 p.m. It is closed at weekends.[85]

Oesam Gate
Myeongnyundang (front)
Myeongnyundang (rear)
Daeseongjeon

Bugugwon
Bugugwon

Bugugwon (Korean: 부국원; Hanja: 富國園), also known as Suwon Gu Bugugwon, built prior to 1923, is a cultural centre at 130 Hyanggyo-ro, Gyo-dong, Paldal-gu (37°16′21″N 127°0′52″E). There is no record of the 85.95 m2 building's construction, but exterior photographs were published in 1923, When Korea was a Japanese colony, the building was the headquarters of Bugukwon Co., Ltd., which sold agricultural products such as fertilizers. After liberation, from 1952 to 1956, it temporarily housed the Suwon Court and the Public Prosecutor's Office. From 1957 to 1960, it was used as the Suwon City Education Support Office, and in 1974 the Republican Party used it as their Gyeonggi-do base. In 1979 the Suwon Arts Foundation was based here, and in 1981 it became an internal medicine clinic.[86] Since 2018, it has been a public cultural space.[87]

Culture and contemporary life

Housing
SK Skyview Apartments, Jeongja-dong

As is typical of urban South Korea, Suwon has many apartment complexes. while some areas have more jutaek (houses, often split into several units). While some areas are more affordable, Yeongtong-gu's housing is the seventh most expensive in the province.[61]

Food

Suwon is known for Suwon galbi, a variation on beef short ribs enjoyed throughout Korea. The city also has a wide variety of restaurants serving Korean and international cuisine.

Sports

Suwon's sports facilities include Suwon World Cup Stadium, which hosted 2002 FIFA World Cup matches, a gymnasium used in the 1988 Summer Olympic Games, a baseball field used by KT Wiz, an archery field, badminton courts, ten-pin bowling lanes, indoor swimming pools, tennis courts, and soft tennis courts.

Football

Suwon World Cup Stadium (37°01′11″N 127°02′13″E) was built for the 2002 FIFA World Cup,[88] and is home to the K League 1 team Suwon Samsung Bluewings. Another K League 1 team, Suwon FC, and a WK League team, Suwon FC Women, play at the Suwon Sports Complex (37°01′52″N 127°00′41″E).

Baseball
KT Wiz Stadium

Since 2013, Suwon has been home to KT Wiz. The team played at Sungkyunkwan University till Suwon Baseball Stadium (37°17′59″N 127°00′35″E) remodelling was completed in time for their elevation to the KBO League in 2015.[89] The stadium was previously the home of the Hyundai Unicorns, but this team folded after the 2007 season.[90]

Indoor sports

The 5,145-capacity Suwon Gymnasium (37°17′54″N 127°00′33″E) hosted the handball events in the 1988 Summer Olympics, and handball and table tennis matches at the 2014 Asian Games.[91] It is currently home to two volleyball teams.

Basketball

Two of the Korean Basketball League and Women's Korean Basketball League's oldest teams, Samsung Thunders and Samsung Life Blueminx, respectively, used to be based in Suwon. Samsung Thunders relocated to Jamsil Arena in Seoul in 2001,[78][79] while four years later, Samsung Life moved to Yongin.[80][81] Top-flight men's basketball returned to Suwon in 2021, when KT Sonicboom relocated to the renamed Suwon KT Sonicboom Arena (formerly Seosuwon Chilbo Gymnasium, 37°16′35″N 126°56′54″E) from Busan.[92]

Volleyball

Suwon Gymnasium is home to the men's and women's volleyball teams Suwon Kepco Vixtorm and Suwon Hyundai Engineering & Construction Hillstate respectively, which play in the V-League.

Museums

Suwon has two national museums and a number of smaller institutions.

The National Map Museum of Korea is at 92 Worldcup-ro, Woncheon-dong, Yeongtong-gu (37°16′34″N 127°3′19″E). It houses a collection of 33,598 maps. Admission is free, and the museum opens daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.[93]

The National Agricultural Museum of Korea opened by Seoho Lake in December 2022.[94] Located at 154 Suin-ro, Seodun-dong, Gwonseon-gu (37°16′34″N 126°59′0″E), admission is free, and the museum is open daily from 10 a.m. till 6 p.m.[95]

Suwon Hwaseong Museum, at 21 Changryong-daero, Maehyang-dong, Paldal-gu (37°16′57″N 127°1′8″E), features exhibits contextualising and explaining the construction of Hwaseong.[96]

Mr. Toilet House is a toilet museum built in 2007 at 463 Jangan-ro, Imok-dong, Jangan-gu (37°19′9″N 126°58′41″E).[97] Ownership was transferred to the city council in 2009.[98]

Libraries

Suwon Central Library opened at 318 Paldalsan-ro, Gyo-dong, Paldal-gu (37°16′25″N 127°00′44″E) in 1980.[99][100] Today the city has 27 public libraries—seven in Gwonseon-gu, five in Jangan-gu, six in Paldal-gu, and nine in Yeongtong-gu[99]—and plans to build another in Imok-dong.[101]

Parks and Gardens
Irwol Arboretum greenhouse

Irwol Arboretum (일월 수목원, 37°17′22″N 126°58′33″E) and Yeongheung Arboretum (영흥 수목원, 37°15′49″N 127°04′16″E) opened on 19 May 2023 beside Irwol Reservoir and Yeongheung Park respectively.[102][103] The 10.15-hectare (25.1-acre) Irwol Arboretum features 429,000 plants of 52,000 species, while Yeongheung Arboretum hosts 118,000 plants of 42,000 species over 14.6 hectares (36 acres).[103] There are also many parks scattered through the city, some of which, e.g., Gwanggyo Lake Park, Seoho Park, Irwol Park, and Manseok Park, contain sizeable lakes. Some parks target outdoor activities; for example, Manseok Park has facilities such as tennis courts (indoor & outdoor), soccer pitches (dirt and artificial turf), and the Suwon X-Games skatepark. Others, e.g., Gwanggyo History Park, have a more traditional focus.

Manseok Park
Tomb of Simon (심온), Gwanggyo History Park

Media

Newspapers based in Suwon include the Kyeonggi Daily (경기일보), based in Jangan-gu; and the Kyeongin Daily (경인일보) and Suwon Daily (수원일보), based in Paldal-gu. These publish exclusively in Korean.

National broadcaster KBS has a drama studio and art hall in Ingye-dong, Yeongtong-gu (37°16′16″N 127°01′51″E). These are open to visits by appointment.[104]

Cinemas

Suwon has several major multiplex cinemas, e.g., Megabox by Suwon Bus Terminal, CGV and Lotte Cinema by Suwon Station, and Kinex 5 in Yeongtong-gu. Other smaller cinemas, which may show fewer foreign films, include Cinema Town, Taehan Theater, Piccadilly Theater, Jungang Theater, Royal Theater, Dano Theater, and Dano Art Hall.[105]

Retail
Avenue France

There are several major shopping centres across Suwon, e.g., AK Plaza and Lotte Mall at Suwon Station, and Avenue France and Alleyway in Gwanggyo. Another large centre, Starfield, is under construction beside Hwaseo Station.[106]

Public toilets

In the early 21st century, Suwon City Council strove to improve the condition of its public lavatories; after such efforts, there were guided tours of the municipal facilities.[107][108] Suwon also hosted several international forums on toilet management, and the World Toilet Association is based in the city.[109]

Transport

Rail
Suwon Station

Suwon is a regional transportation hub, with Suwon Station a major stop served by KTX and other trains on the Gyeongbu Line connecting Seoul to Busan. Until 1973, the Suryo Line also connected Suwon to Yeoju. The Suin Line also connected Suwon to Incheon, and this line has been reconstructed as part of the Seoul Metro.[110]

Metro

Suwon is served by three lines (14 stations) on the Seoul Metro.

Construction on an extension of the Sinbundang Line to Homaesil is scheduled to begin in 2024.[111] Another planned line—the Dongtan–Indeogwon Line—should create several new stations in Suwon, but this has been delayed, promoting affected cities to call for urgent action.[112]

Buses
Gwanggyo Jungang Underground Transfer Centre

There are two inter-city bus terminals in Suwon with connections to many cities nationwide: Suwon Bus Terminal near Seryu Station, and West Suwon Bus Terminal near Sungkyunkwan University. Suwon is connected to Seoul and other nearby cities by city and express buses with departure points across the city.

In 2017, Suwon Station Transfer Center opened to the west of the Gyeongbu Line. This new bank of bus stops was built to alleviate pressure on bus and taxi stands across the tracks.[113] Another transfer centre is incorporated into Gwanggyo Jungang Station; this is underground, and bus stands feature screen doors.[114] Suwon has invested heavily in electric buses—in 2019, it built the country's largest bus charging station at 46 Gyeongsu-daero 1220beon-gil, Pajang-dong.[115]

Roads

The Yeongdong Expressway (50) passes through Suwon, with two exits within the city limits: North Suwon and East Suwon. The Gwanggyo Sanghyeon exit on the Yongin–Seoul Expressway (171) is on Suwon's border with Yongin, and the Pyeongtaek–Paju Expressway (17) also has an exit in Suwon (Geumgok). Nearby Homaesil is one of Suwon's more notorious bottlenecks.[116] Despite its name, the Suwon exit of the Gyeongbu Expressway (1) lies in Singal in neighbouring Yongin.

Bicycles

Suwon was the first place in Korea to introduce dockless shared bicycles for hire.[117] Traversing Suwon by regular bicycle is also relatively easy as there are numerous cycle paths beside the streams that cut through the city. However, some of these are in poor condition.[118]

Car-free zones

In 2013, the city hosted the EcoMobility World Festival in Haenggung-dong, where for one month, streets were closed to cars as a car-free experiment. Instead of cars, residents used non-motorized vehicles provided by the festival organizers.[119] The experiment was not unopposed; however, on balance it was considered a success. Following the festival, the city began discussing whether to adopt the practice on a permanent basis.[120]

Military

Suwon Air Base in Jangji-dong, Gwonseon-gu was used by the United States Air Force during the Korean War, when it was the scene of the conflict's first aerial combat. Today the base is under Republic of Korea Air Force jurisdiction, though it is still managed and maintained by the US military.[121]

Fauna

Suwon's wildlife is similar to that of most of Gyeonggi-do. A notable species, however, is the endangered Suwon tree frog.[122][123] This is one of only two tree frogs to inhabit the Korean peninsula,[123] and it lives only in the Gyeonggi-do area.

Mammals

Mammals living on Gwanggyosan and elsewhere in the city include the raccoon dog,[124][125] Japanese mole,[125] Siberian weasel,[125] water deer,[125] Korean hare,[125] red squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris mantchuricus),[125] house mouse,[125] striped field mouse,[125] and the Eurasian harvest mouse.[125]

Birds

A variety of birds inhabit Suwon. For example, Irwol Lake is home to great crested grebes, goshawks, and mandarins[126] among other species, and swans began wintering on the lake in 2022.[127] Suwon also appears to be Korea's first recorded breeding site of the white-breasted waterhen.[128] Other birds in Suwon include the Eurasian tree sparrow,[129] Oriental magpie,[129] large-billed crow,[129] rook,[130] brown-eared bulbul,[129] vinous-throated parrotbill,[129] rock dove,[129] marsh tit,[129][131] Japanese tit,[131] coal tit,[131] varied tit,[131] Eastern spot-billed duck,[129] great cormorant,[129] grey heron,[129] striated heron,[129] great white egret,[129] little egret,[129] and common sandpiper.[129]

Notable people

Notable people from Suwon include:

Deceased

List in chronological order of birth

  • Lee Go (이고; 李皐, 1341–1420, Goryeo subject opposed to Joseon)[132]
  • Kim Jullyong (김준룡; 金俊龍, 1586–1642, military general, defeated Qing soldiers at Gwanggyosan)[132]
  • Choi Rubaek (최루백, pious son)[132]
  • Woo Hayeong (우하영, 1741–1812, Silhak scholar, agricultural pioneer)[132]
  • Lim Myeonsu (임면수; 林勉洙, 13 June 1874–29 November 1930, independence activist)[132]
  • Kim Sehwan (김세환; 金世煥, 1889–1945, educator, independence activist)[132]
  • Na Hyeseok (나혜석; 羅蕙錫, 28 April 1896–10 December 1948, feminist, painter, writer, poet, sculptor, journalist)[133][132]
  • Kim Hyanghwa (김향화; 金香花, 1897–?, gisaeng, independence activist)[134][132]
  • Park Seontae (박선태; 朴善泰, 1901–1938, independence activist)[132]
  • Lee Seongyeong (이선경; 李善卿, 1902–1921, independence activist)[132]
  • Kim Jangseong (김장성; 金長星, 7 February 1913–9 March 1932, independence activist)[132]
  • Hong Jongcheol (홍종철; 洪鐘哲, 26 March 1920–22 July 1989, independence activist)[132]
  • Yun Hanheum (윤한흠; 尹漢欽, 1923–22 August 2016, artist) [135][136][137]

Living

List in alphabetical order by surname

  • Han-na Chang (장한나; 張漢娜, 23 December 1982–, conductor, cellist)[138][139]
  • Chung Hyeon (정현; 鄭泫, 19 May 1996–, tennis player)[140][141]
  • Im Chang-kyun (임창균; 任創均, stage name I.M, 26 January 1996–, rapper, singer, songwriter)
  • Jeon Ji-yoon (전지윤; 田祉潤, 15 October 1990–, rapper, singer, songwriter, actor)[142]
  • Stella Hanbyul Jeung (정한별, opera singer)[143]
  • Jo Kwon (조권; 趙權, 28 August 1989–, singer, actor, presenter)
  • Joo Won (문준원; 文晙原; Mun Junwon, stage name Joo Won, 30 September 1987–, actor)
  • Kim Dong-hyun (김동현; 金東炫, 17 November 1981–, MMA fighter)[144][145]
  • Kim Jang-hwan (김장환, known as Billy Kim, 25 July 1934–, pastor, former President of the Baptist World Alliance, President of the Far East Broadcasting Company)[64]
  • Kim Myung-jun (김명준; 金明俊, stage name MJ, 5 March 1994–, singer, actor, model)
  • Kim Yugwon (김유권; 金有權, stage name U-Kwon, 9 April 1992–, singer)[146]
  • Lee Chang-sub (이창섭; 李昌燮, 26 February 1991–, singer)
  • Lee Dong-hun (이동훈, 28 February 1993–, singer, A.C.E)
  • Lee Jin-ki (이진기; 李珍基, stage name Onew, 14 December 1989–, singer, songwriter, actor, presenter)[147]
  • Lee Jong-suk (이종석; 李鐘奭, 14 September 1989–, actor, model)[148]
  • Lee Ju-eun (이주은; 李宙恩, 7 June 1995–, singer, actor)
  • Oh Kyo-moon (오교문; 吳教文, 2 March 1972–, archer)[149]
  • Sam Oh (오상미; O Sangmi, 15 January 1980–, presenter, columnist)[150]
  • Park Hae-soo (박해수; 朴海秀, 21 November 1981–, actor)[151][152]
  • Park Ji-sung (박지성; 朴智星, 30 March 1981–, footballer) Park was born in Seoul but raised in Suwon. In 2005, a city street was renamed after him.[153]
  • Ryu Jun-yeol (류준열; 柳俊烈, 25 September 1986–, actor)[154][155]
  • Seol Yoeun (설요은, 2012–, violinist)[156]
  • Shin Dong-hee (신동희; 申東熙, stage name Shindong, 28 September 1985–, rapper, singer, dancer, presenter, video director)[157]
  • Song Kang (송강; 宋江, 23 April 1994–, actor)[158]
  • Yoo Hyun-young (유현영, 6 September 1976–, actor)
  • Yoo Jeong-yeon (유전연; 俞定延, 1 November 1996–, singer)[159]
  • Yoon Bo-mi (윤보미; 尹普美, 13 August 1993–, singer, actor)[160][161]

Twin towns and sister cities
See also: List of twin towns and sister cities in South Korea

Suwon is twinned with:[162]

See also

Notes

    References

    Citations
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