Valmiki National Park

The extensive forest area of Valmikinagar (formally known as Bhainsa Lotan)[3] was previously owned by the Bettiah Raj and Ramanagar Raj until the early 1950s.[4] It was declared a Wildlife Sanctuary in 1978. Valmiki National Park was established in the year 1990. Total area of the park is about 335.65 Km2. Valmiki Wildlife Sanctuary and National Park is the 18th Tiger Reserve of the country.[4] The Valmiki Tiger Reserve comprises the National Park and the Wildlife Sanctuary.

It is located in West Champaran which derives its name from two words, Champa and Aranya, meaning forest of Champa trees. Geographically, it is situated between 83°0 50′ and 84°0 10′ E longitude and between 27°0 10′ and 27°0 03′ N latitude. Total forest area comprises about 900 square kilometres (350 sq mi), out of which the Valmiki Wildlife Sanctuary is 880 square kilometres (340 sq mi) and spread of the National Park is about 335 square kilometres (129 sq mi) area. In the north, the protected areas are bordered by Nepal's Chitwan National Park while the Indian state Uttar Pradesh bounds the sanctuary from western side. Bihar Government is turning 800 hectares of forest in VTR into Grassland making it India's biggest grassland.[5]

Himalayan Foot Hills of Valmikinagar, Bihar

Valmikinagar Hydel Project, Bihar

Gandak River, Valmikinagar, Bihar

The landscape of Valmiki National Park encompasses foothills of the Sivalik Hills with a mosaic of the cliffs, ridges and gorges,[6] hills, streams and valleys; dense forests, open woodlands, grasslands, swamps and riverine fringe. Situated in Gangetic plains bio-geographic zone of the Country, the forest has combination of bhabar and terai tracts. Boulder and pebble deposits by the Himalayan rivers in foothills characterized the Bhabar tract while the finer sediments deposits feature Terai lands.

Someshwar Hill Range and Dun Hill system with knife-edge ridges and precipitous slopes, cliffs, spurs, gorges, narrow valleys.[7]

Older alluvium with sandy soil with variegated clay and loose boulder deposits and artesian flows; lateritic formations on higher contours and newer Alluvium on southern parts with reissuing springs akin to artesian flows.

Criss-crossing and meandering rivers, streams and rivulets, man-made canals; swamps and grasslands are featured on these lands.[8] River Gandak forms the western boundary of Valmiki wildlife sanctuary. It enters in India at Valmikinagar, where two rivulets Sonha and Pachnad joins it, forming a holy confluence ‘Triveni’. The river is called ‘Narayani’ in Nepal. Harha – Masan River system originates from the Valmiki Forests and forms Burhi Gandak River down south. River Pandai flows into Bihar (India) from Nepal in the eastern end of the Sanctuary and meets Masan. All these rivers with their precursor and tributaries namely Rohua, Kotrahia, Manor, Bhapsa, Koshil, Singha, Dhonghi, Ganguli, Dhoram are full of youth and verve. Their cascades in wanton and wayward playfulness while descending from hills ridges and gorges are enchanting. Meeting the planes they slowly mature to serene grandeur.

A lake in Darua Bari, Valmiki Tiger Reserve

Jungle in Valmiki National Park

As per Champion and Seth classification, there are seven forest types found in VTR, which makes VTR a special destination for nature lovers.

• Bhabar – Dun Sal Forest
• Dry Siwalik Sal Forest
• West Gangetic Moist Mixed Deciduous Forest
• Khair – Sissoo Forest
• Cane Brakes
• Eastern Wet Alluvial Grassland
• Barringtonia Swamp Forest

Due to diverse topographical and edaphic factors, the reserve harbors varied vegetation types. The Botanical Survey of India has categorized seven vegetation types within the limits of the sanctuary and the national park:

• Moist mixed deciduous
• Open – land vegetation
• Sub-mountainous semi-evergreen formation
• Freshwater swamps
• Riparian fringes
• Alluvial grasslands and high hill savannah
• Wetlands

The important tree species found in valley area of VTR are Sal (Shorea robusta), Karam (Adina cardifolia), Asan (Terminalia tomentosa), Bahera (Terminalia bellirica), Asidh (Lagestromia parviflora), Simal (Salmelia malaberica), Satsal (Dalbergia latifolia), etc.

In hilly regions apart from Sal, Piyar (Buchanania cochinchinensis), Mandar (Dillenia aurea), Banjan (Anogeissus latifolia), Bhelwa (Semecarpus anacardium), Harra (Terminalia chebula), Bodera (Eugenia operculata), etc. tree species are found. There is a special attraction of cane brakes which is mainly found in Madanpur Forest block and it is good habitat for Tiger. Cane occurs in damp areas along all most all the nalas of Madanpur Range. In Hindi cane is known as BETTH and the name Bettiah (District Headquarters of West Champaran District) is derived from this BETTH.

There is a small isolated patch of Chir Pine (Pinus roxburghii) forest locally known as DHUP found in Raghia Forest block. Generally Chir Pine forest occurs at the altitude of 4000 ft. to 5000 ft. but here it is found between the altitudes of 1000 ft. to 1700 ft. which is unique.

The grasses found in VTR are munj (Tripidium bengalense, synonym Saccharum munja), Kans (Saccharum spontaneum), Elephant grass (Typha elephantina), Narkat (Phragmites karka), Vitiveria zizanioides, Imperata cylindrica, Choranth (Heteropogon contortus), Sabai (Eulaliopsis binata), etc. Climbers are also very common in VTR. The common species being Mahulan (Bauhinia vahlii) Mahai (Butea parviflora), Panilat (Vitis repanda), Ramdatwan (Smilax parviflora), and Arar (Acacia pinnate).

There are several medicinal plants found in VTR. Some of them are Satawar (Asparagus racemosus), Safed Musli, Dudhkoraiya (Holarrahena

antidysenterica), Amla (Emblica officinalis), Piper (Piper longum), etc.

Cultural diversity

A Women from Tharu tribe

Bagya - rice flour dumplings made Tharu people

The Valmiki landscape harbors vivid socio-cultural diversity. The Tharu people, a scheduled tribe, is the dominant community in the landscape. There are several theories on colonization of this community in the Himalayan terai. Their prime occupation is agriculture and staple food is rice. They are non-vegetarian and like chicken, pork, snails and fish and gents relish liquor locally prepared from jaggary. The primary language is Bhojpuri . Rama Navami is their main festival. They also maintain socio-cultural relationship with the Tharus of Nepal. Their population is around 2.5 lakh.

The scheduled tribes other than Tharu in the Valmiki landscape are collectively called Dhangar – which means retained labourer in Oraon dialect. Dhangar comprises four tribes: Oraon, Munda, Lohra and Bhuiya. The Dhangars were brought to area as agriculture labourers from the Chhotanagpur Hills. Each Dhangar tribe has its own dialect and they observe their traditional festivals. Currently their population is around 0.5 lakh.

Communities other than the tribes are called "Baaji". They are outsiders and involved in agriculture as well as small business in the villages.[12] It serves as the only Indian tiger reserve in the state of Bihar.

• Udaypur Wildlife Sanctuary

• Official website