How to Contour Lips

Last Updated: December 16, 2021 References

Full, pouty lips are all the rage these days. Even if you don’t have naturally full lips, using contouring is a simple way to create the effect of a plump mouth. All you have to do is find the right shade of lip liner and lipstick, then just apply the correct lines to create the illusion of full, large lips. Use contouring to create a dramatic pout or try a natural look that makes your lips larger without adding too much color.

Method 1

Method 1 of 2:

Contouring to Create Pouty Lips

1
Prepare your lips by exfoliating and adding lip balm. One of the keys to creating full, pouty lips is to keep your lips healthy and hydrated.^{[1]
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Research source} Before you start contouring, exfoliate by rubbing a small amount of sugar over the surface of your lips. Use a damp cloth to wipe off the sugar. Apply lip balm to rehydrate your lips.
- In addition to making them smooth and soft, exfoliating your lips will also help them look more plump.^{[2]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Charina Redugerio
  Makeup Artist
  Expert Interview. 26 May 2020.}
- You can buy lip exfoliator, but sugar works just as well. Try mixing sugar with a little bit of olive oil for a moisturizing effect. Add some honey or lemon juice to brighten your lips.
- Try using a lip plumper before you contour your lips to make them look even fuller!^{[3]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Charina Redugerio
  Makeup Artist
  Expert Interview. 26 May 2020.}
2
Choose your lipstick and a lip liner that is 1-2 shades darker. Choosing lip liner that contrasts slightly with your lipstick will bring out the shape of your lip and make your lips look fuller by creating contrast and shadowing. Choose your lipstick color before you start contouring, then choose a lip liner that's 1 or 2 shades darker.^{[4]
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Research source} If you aren’t sure which shade of lipstick to use, try a lipstick color that complements the undertones of your skin.^{[5]
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- If your skin has cool undertones, go for lipsticks that have a bluish or purplish tint. Stick to deeper shades, since paler lipsticks can make you look washed out (especially if your skin is pale).
- If your skin has golden, olive, or yellowish undertones, look for lipstick in warm shades. True reds or orangey tints will go well with your skin. You’ll probably look good in pinks and nudes, too.
- For neutral skin tones, feel free to experiment with a range of pinks, purples, reds, and oranges.
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3
Select matte lipstick for the most flattering effect. Matte lipstick creates the most natural look when you’re contouring your lips. For the strongest contour, pick 2 different shades (one lighter and one darker) to blend together. Try to select shades that are similar in texture (e.g., both mattes).
- Lipsticks that are glossy or shimmery can draw too much attention to the contouring, making it look fake or overdone.
4
Use the lip liner to draw an X at your cupid’s bow. Your cupid’s bow is the little dip at the top and center of your upper lip. It's shaped like the letter M, but you can also think of it as 2 small triangles. Create the X by starting at the top of one triangle and drawing diagonally down through your cupid’s bow until you get to the bottom of your top lip (below the opposite triangle). Repeat this by starting from the top of the other triangle and drawing diagonally down, following your cupid’s bow, until you’ve reached the bottom of your top lip.
- At this point, you should have an X whose lines start at the 2 top triangles of your upper lip and extend to the bottom of your top lip, right where your top lip meets your 2 front teeth.
- Drawing an X over this part of your lip will make your upper lip look larger. The X accentuates the center of your top lip while defining your cupid’s bow.^{[6]
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5
Draw an M in the center of your bottom lip using lip liner. Draw a right-side-up M in the center of your bottom lip.^{[7]
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Research source} The inner V shape of the letter M will be directly in the middle of your bottom lip, with the 2 upper triangles of the M pointing upward towards your front teeth.
- The M shape creates definition on your bottom lip by accentuating the full center of the lip.
6
Outline the edge of your lips with the lip liner. To line your top lip, start at the corner of your mouth, where your top lip meets your bottom lip. Then, use the lip liner to trace upward along the line where your lip meets your skin.^{[8]
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Research source} Stop when you reach the middle of your cupid’s bow, then begin tracing from the opposite corner, lining your upper lip until you reach the other line at your cupid’s bow. For the bottom lip, begin at the same corner where you started the top lip line and following the edge of the entire bottom lip until you get to the opposite corner.
- You can choose to over-line your lips to give the illusion that your lips are larger than they are. Instead of following the natural line, outline your lips by drawing the liner just barely outside of the natural shape. To make this easier, try resting the pencil on its side as you trace along the line of your lip, rather than trying to draw outside of your lip with just the point of the pencil.^{[9]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Charina Redugerio
  Makeup Artist
  Expert Interview. 26 May 2020.}
- When you're done lining, use a lip brush or your finger to gently smear the liner inward and towards your mouth. This will make your lip liner appear softer and more natural.
- When you’re applying lip liner, always start at the outside corners of your lips and move toward the center. This will help you create a fuller, more rounded shape.
7
Apply lipstick within the boundaries of your lip liner. Start at the center of your upper lip, then draw the lipstick out towards the corner of your mouth where the top lip meets the bottom lip. Fill in the other half of your top lip by starting at its center, then moving out towards the other corner. Repeat this action with your lower lip.^{[10]
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- Fill in any missed or uneven spots by dabbing the lipstick with your finger and dotting it onto the areas where you need to add more color to your lips.
- If you want a stronger contour, use 2 shades of lipstick. Fill in the outer part of your lips with a darker shade, then use a lighter shade for the center.
8
Dab a paler shade of lipstick onto the center of your lips and blend. Applying a lighter-colored lipstick onto the center of your lips will make your lips appear fuller because you are adding shading and creating depth.^{[11]
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Expert Source

Charina Redugerio
Makeup Artist
Expert Interview. 26 May 2020.} Dab the lighter lipstick with your finger and gently smudge it over the center of your lips – the area that puckers when you make a kissing face. Continue until it is completely blended in.^{[12]
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Research source}
- Try using lipgloss instead of a lighter shade of lipstick to make the center of your lips pop with a glossy sheen.^{[13]
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9
Sweep a small amount of bronzer beneath your lower lip. The shadow the bronzer creates will give the illusion of fuller lips by accentuating the bulk of your bottom lip.^{[14]
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- You can also try dabbing your upper lip and the area above your cupid’s bow with a tiny bit of foundation or highlighter to accentuate your top lip by highlighting its definition.

Method 2

Method 2 of 2:

Contouring Full Nude Lips

1
Prepare your lips by exfoliating and adding lip balm. Your lips will look more naturally full if they’re healthy and hydrated.^{[15]
X
Research source} Before you contour your lips, rub them with a little sugar or an exfoliating scrub to buff out any rough patches. Use a damp cloth to wipe off the exfoliant, then rehydrate your lips with a little lip balm.
- You can buy lip exfoliator or make your own with sugar. Try mixing sugar with a little bit of olive oil to add extra moisture, and add some honey or lemon for a brightening effect.
2
Cover your lips with foundation or concealer. Adding foundation to your lips will highlight your lip line and make your lips seem extra full.^{[16]
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Research source} Foundation will also work as a great primer for your lipstick, helping the lipstick stay put throughout your day.
3
Choose a liner that matches your natural lip color. Since you are going for a natural look, you want to choose a lip liner that is close to your natural lip color. Using a liner that matches your lips will help create depth as you contour, without making the look too dramatic.^{[17]
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Research source}
- If you can test the lip liner before buying, add various colors to your lips until you find one that matches your natural color. If you are unable to test them, try holding them up to your lips and choose a few that match.
4
Use lip liner to line your lips, then blend the line with your finger. Line your lips by following their natural line, then use your finger to smudge the line towards the center of your lips so that the line becomes somewhat blurred and subtle.^{[18]
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Research source} You want the line to look soft in order to create a more natural effect.
- You can slightly over-line your lips to make them seem even poutier. To accomplish this, gradually push the liner across your lip line as you follow the normal shape of your lips, creating a line that rests only slightly outside of your natural lip line. ^{[19]
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5
Fill in your lips with a nude-colored lipstick. Apply your lipstick by starting at the center of your upper lip. Move the lipstick out towards one corner of your mouth. Repeat with the other half of your top lip by starting at the center and moving out towards the other corner. Repeat this action with your lower lip, starting at the center and moving towards each crease.^{[20]
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6
Add lip gloss to the center of your lips to add shine. The sheen of lipgloss will enhance the natural shape of your lip and make your lips appear fuller.^{[21]
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- You can apply the gloss directly to your lips and use your finger to smudge it gently to blend it in, or apply gloss to your finger and dab it onto the center of your lips.
- For even more fullness, use a lip plumper in the center of your lips.^{[22]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Charina Redugerio
  Makeup Artist
  Expert Interview. 26 May 2020.}
7
Apply a small amount of bronzer beneath your lower lip. The shadow the bronzer creates will give the illusion of fuller lips by emphasizing and defining the shape of your bottom lip.^{[23]
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Research source}
- You can also try dabbing your upper lip and the area above your cupid’s bow with a tiny bit of foundation to accentuate your top lip by highlighting its definition.

Expert Q&A

Question

How can I make my lips look fuller?

Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

Using a lip plumper can create a fuller appearance. You can also create a fuller look with contouring.
Question

How can I fake my full lips?

Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

You can overline the lips to give them a fuller shape. Using gloss also creates the illusion of fullness.
Question

How do you use lip liner?

Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

Use the tip of a lip pencil to trace the outline of your lips. Work from the outside in for a fuller, more rounded shape. Use the side to fill the lips in.