Coll

Arinagour (Scottish Gaelic: Àirigh nan Gobhar),[10] is the main settlement on the island located at the head of Loch Eatharna, on the east coast.[11] Other inhabited locations include:

• Acha (Scottish Gaelic: An t-Achadh),[12] a crofting settlement located 5 km (3 mi) south-west of Arinagour.[13]
• Arileod (Scottish Gaelic: Àirigh Leòid),[10] located on the west coast; 7 km (4+1⁄2 mi) south-west of Arinagour.[14]
• Arnabost (Scottish Gaelic: Àrnabost),[10] located 3 km (2 mi) north-west of Arinagour. it is the junction for travel between Sorisdale, Clabhach and Arinagour.[15]
• Ballyhaugh (Scottish Gaelic: Baile Hogh),[16] located on the northern part of Hough Bay; 5 km (3 mi) west of Arinagour.[17]
• Bousd (Scottish Gaelic: Babhsta),[18] located 7 km (4+1⁄2 mi) north-east of Arinagour.[19]
• Clabhach (Scottish Gaelic: A' Chlabaich),[20] located on the north-west coast; 5 km (3 mi) north-west of Arinagour.[21]
• Cornaigmore
• Crossapol (Scottish Gaelic: Crosabol),[22] located on the south-west coast.[23]
• Grishipoll
• Sorisdale
• Totronald (Scottish Gaelic: Tobhta Raghnaill), located on the west coast 7 km (4+1⁄2 mi) southwest of Arinagour.[24]
• Uig (Scottish Gaelic: Ùig),[25] located 1 km (1⁄2 mi) north-east of the head of Loch Breachacha.[26]

Dùn Beic (in about 1900), one of several Dùn on Coll traditionally claimed to have been Norse strongholds.

In the 6th century, an Irish invasion led to the establishment of the Gaelic kingdom of Dál Riata, which included Coll. Dál Riata was divided into four kin-groups, of which the Cenél Loairn ruled Coll, Mull, and the adjacent mainland, which together consequently became known as Lorn, after them. Coll shared the history of Lorn for the next 1000 years, becoming part of the Kingdom of the Isles under Norwegian dominion, then the MacDougall subdivision of that kingdom after Somerled.

Coll, like other Hebridean islands, has several crannógs (artificial islands) located in some of its lochs, dating from this early period. It is difficult to estimate the exact age of these islands, but several are thought to date to the Norse period; local traditions describe three - Dùn Anlaimh, Dùn an Achaidh, Dùn Dubh - as having been Norse strongholds which survived until they were attacked by the Macleans.

The 1266 Treaty of Perth transferred the Norwegian crown dependency to the Scottish king[note 1]. Following the MacDougall defeat in the dispute between king John Balliol and Robert de Bruys (they had backed the former), the position of sheriff of Argyll was created to have shrieval authority over Lorn[note 2], and the MacDougall lands were merged into the Lordship of the Isles. Though MacDougall authority was restored in 1357, by king David II, the MacDougall heir had 3 years previously[note 3], quitclaimed any rights to Mull (including Coll), which therefore remained with the Lord of the Isles.

Crest badge for members of Clan Maclean of Coll.

'Altera Merces' translates to "Either shall be my reward" (victory or death)

"Mac Lean" illustration by R. R. McIan, from James Logan's The Clans of the Scottish Highlands, 1845

The heirs of the Cenél Loairn were now the MacLeans, who still resided in Lorn, as vassals of the Lord of the Isles. However, the daughter of the first Lord of the Isles, John of Islay, married the leader of the MacLeans, Lachlan Lubanach[note 4]; subsequent MacLean leaders thus descended from John of Islay. Lachlan's grandson, Lachlan Bronneach[note 5] had four sons, the eldest of which (Donald) was a bastard, and would thus not inherit the MacLean leadership.

Breachacha Castle

Donald took an armed band to Ardtornish Castle, home of the Lord of the Isles, and demanded that the third Lord of the Isles (Alexander) give him an inheritance, by granting him a share of the lands inherited from John of Islay (on the basis that Donald's grandfather [note 6] was Alexander's 1st cousin); Alexander conceded, granting Donald Ardgour and other lands. Having observed this, the youngest son of Lachlan Bronneach - John Garbh[note 7] - decided to try the same behaviour, and as a result was made laird of Coll, and other lands, by Alexander. King James II confirmed Alexander's grants to John.

John Garbh's heirs became known as the MacLeans of Coll, and constructed Breachacha Castle, on the south coast of Coll, as their base. John Garbh's son John Abraich was killed at the Battle of Corpach defending his Lochaber lands against Clan Cameron. Following his death, all succeeding McLean's of Coll would bear the title 'Mac Iain Abraich' , meaning 'Son of Lochaber John' pronounced and anglicised to 'McEnabrey'. Coll remained home to this branch of the Clan Maclean for 500 years. In 1549 Dean Monro wrote of Coll that it was:

"ane mane fertile Ile inhabite and manurit, with an castell and ane paroch kirk in it, gude for fishing and fowlers, with ane utter fine Falcons nest in it".[31]

He wrote of Rum:

"It pertains to McKenabrey of Coll".[31]

The illustration at right by McIan of 1845, represents Hector McLean 14th Laird of Coll (c1720's) with the infamous 'yellow stick' used to convert the islanders of Rum and Coll from Catholicism. He drove recalcitrant natives to church by a smart application of his walking stick; those who yielded were thus said to come under Creideamh a’ bhata-bhuidhe.

The family Chapel & burial vault of the MacLeans of Coll

At the end of the 15th century, the Lordship of the Isles was dismantled, which made the MacLeans of Coll direct vassals of the crown, which caused conflict with the heirs of the eldest lawful son of Lachlan Bronneach[note 8] - the Macleans of Duart. The leader of the latter claimed to be leader of all Macleans, as Lachlan Bronneach and his forefathers had been, but the Macleans of Coll argued that their only feudal superior was the king, and they were therefore independent of the Duart branch of the family; essentially the dispute was between feudalism and traditional family leadership principles.

Simmering tensions eventually exploded in 1561, when the MacLeans of Duart invaded the lands of the MacLeans of Coll. The leader of the latter opted to appeal to the Privy Council for assistance; the privy council agreed with the MacLeans of Coll, ordering the MacLeans of Duart to pay reparations. However, in 1583, a decade after succeeding to his position, the new leader of the MacLeans of Duart re-invaded Coll with the intention of taking the island for themselves. A battle was fought at Totronald near Breacachadh Castle where the Coll clan overwhelmed the Duarts, chopped off their heads and threw them in the stream, which is still known as "the stream of the heads".

The rocky western coast

In the late 17th century, the MacLeans of Duart were in debt to the Earl of Argyll; these stemmed from the civil war when the MacLeans had supported the royalists against the covenanters. Ironically, though himself a royalist, the Earl's father had been one of the most senior covenanters; many therefore felt that the debt was unjust, and in 1676, the MacLeans appealed to the Privy Council, but no decision was reached.

The MacLeans of Coll subsequently supported those of Duart in small guerilla actions against the Earl's lands. Unlike the MacLeans, the Earl was a supporter of the Scottish Reformation, and in 1679 managed to obtain Fire and Sword powers against popery in the Highlands. He launched an attack on Coll, in revenge for the support given to the MacLeans of Duart; Breachacha Castle surrendered on 2 July 1679. However, in 1681, after equivocating over his obedience to king James VII (a Roman Catholic), the Earl was arrested for treason, and Coll was returned to the MacLeans (of Coll).

Derelict house at Sorisdale

Map of Tiree (bottom, southwest) and Coll (top, northeast), 1899.

In the late 18th century there were about 1,000 people supported by agriculture and fishing.[2] However, the collapse in the kelp market after the end of the Napoleonic Wars, followed by the Highland Potato Famine, caused a great deal of hardship on the island. By the mid 19th century, half the population had chosen to leave, many of them moving to Australia, Canada, or South Africa.

The obituary of Alexander McLean, 16th of Coll (Alasdair Ruadh):

DIED-On the 10th of April last, at Coll House, in the Island of Mull, Alexander M'LEAN, Esq., Laird of Coll, in the 84th year of his age—the venerable Parent of the Lady of Major M'Leod. The respect in which the deceased was held by his numerous tennants (sic) and friends, was truly indicated upon the melancholy occasion of his Funeral. The steam boat that conveyed the respected remains from the scene of death to the vault in the family Chapel of Coll, was crowded with anxious mutitudes (sic), eager to evince by their attendance the last sad offics that can be paid to decayed mortality. Every countenance bore the impression of deep,— unfeigned sorrow, which, although tending the more firmly to impress on the minds of the surviving relatives — the extent of their irreparable loss — convinced them, that the deceased's worth was imprinted indelibly upon their hearts. The deceased went with honour to the grave. He lived in the hearts of all who had the pleasure of his acquaintance, and was justly esteemed the "Father of his People." He was the best of husbands — the most affectionate of fathers — an indulgent master — a liberal landlord— and as he lived a sincere Christian, so he died in the firm hope of his enjoying hereafter the rich rewards of a well spent life. The Deceased Laird is succeeded by his only surviving son, HUGH.

— The Cornwall Chronicle[32]

In 1848, the heir of the Macleans of Coll himself, Alexander Maclean, emigrated to Natal, in South Africa (where he later died, unmarried). In 1856, Alexander's father, Hugh MacLean, decided to sell Coll.

Coll airport

There are only two main roads on Coll. The main hub of the island is the island's largest settlement, Arinagour. Just over a kilometre (0.7 miles) south of Arinagour is the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry terminal.[35] The ferry travels from Oban to Coll to Tiree; and a return trip from Tiree, to Coll, to Oban.[36][37] The ferry between Oban and Castlebay on Barra goes via Coll and Tiree once a week.

The airport on the island, (IATA: COL) is located between Uig and Arileod. Highland Airways who originally operated the route to Oban went into administration in 2010,[38] but a new operator, Hebridean Air Services now operates the route under a PSO with flights to Oban, Tiree and Colonsay. The aircraft used for the flights are a BN2 Islander (G-HEBS). Hebridean headquarters are at Cumbernauld Airport, North Lanarkshire.

Project Trust centre

In July 2012, Princess Anne formally opened the Isle of Coll's new community centre, An Cridhe, and hostel, Coll Bunkhouse. Owned and managed by the community-led organisation Development Coll, the new facilities were built to provide much needed amenities on the island and a social hub for the local community. An Cridhe now hosts a series of annual events such as a half marathon, the Coll Show, a basking shark festival, a bird festival and a chamber music festival, as well as a range of music, comedy, theatre and dance throughout the year.

In December 2013 Coll secured 'dark skies' status, the second location in Scotland.[39] The island has no street lights and little other light pollution, allowing unobstructed views of the night sky on clear nights. In winter the Northern Lights are often visible.[40]

The charity Project Trust, which organises overseas volunteering and gap-years, has been based on the island since 1974.[41][42] The founder, Nicholas Maclean-Bristol, also restored Breacachadh Castle.[43]