Kijōka-bashōfu

Kijōka-bashōfu (喜如嘉の芭蕉布) is the Japanese craft of making cloth from the bashō or Japanese fibre banana as practiced in Kijōka in Ogimi, Okinawa. Like linen, hemp, ramie and other long vegetable fibres, it does not stick to the skin in hot weather; as such it is suitable for the climate of Okinawa.[1] Kijōka-bashōfu is recognized as one of the Important Intangible Cultural Properties of Japan.

A short fibre banana plant with large green leaves.
The bashō or Japanese fibre banana, used in the making of kijōka-bashōfu

History

Bashōfu formed part of the tribute to Ming dynasty China, while 3,000 rolls were listed as due after the Satsuma invasion of Okinawa in 1609.[2] As well as the payment of bolts of plain, striped and kasuri bashōfu as tribute to the Ryukyu Kingdom kings, the cloth was used in daily wear by commoners.[1][3] Production increased in the Meiji period with the introduction of the takahata (高機) loom.[2] After the Battle of Okinawa, production declined dramatically.[2] Formerly made across the Ryūkyū islands, bashōfu production is now localized to Kijōka.[1][4]

Modern production

Bashō trees are stripped and, after sterilization, softened bast fibres are extracted and spun into weavable yarn;[3] these are then woven to produce cloth that is lightweight, strong, and smooth to the touch.[2][3][5] Approximately forty trees are required to make a standard roll of fabric.[3] The colour of the bashō fibre forms the background; patterns are woven in indigo and brown.[2] Designs include stripes, checks, and a number of types of kasuri.[2]

Cultural heritage

Kijōka-bashōfu was registered as an Important Intangible Cultural Property (重要無形文化財) in 1974, and the Kijōka-bashōfu Preservation Society (喜如嘉の芭蕉布保存会) was founded to help preserve the tradition.[6][7] In 2000, practitioner of kijōka-bashōfu production Taira Toshiko (平良敏子) (1921–2022) was recognized as a Living National Treasure.[8]

See also

References
  1. "Ryukyu and Ainu Textiles". Kyoto National Museum. Archived from the original on 14 October 2018. Retrieved 15 March 2011.
  2. "Kimono - Okinawa". Cultural Foundation for Promoting the National Costume of Japan. Archived from the original on 21 February 2016. Retrieved 15 March 2011.
  3. "Kimono - Okinawa". Okinawa Prefecture. Archived from the original on 27 September 2011. Retrieved 15 March 2011.
  4. Bartok, Mandy, "Weaves its spell in Kijoka Bashōfu culture", Japan Times, 3 June 2012, p. 10
  5. "Kijoka-no Bashofu (plantain tree fabric)". Japan National Tourism Organization. Retrieved 15 March 2011.
  6. "Database of Registered National Cultural Assets". Agency for Cultural Affairs. Retrieved 15 March 2011.
  7. "Village of Bashōfu". Ogimi Village. Archived from the original on 19 July 2010. Retrieved 15 March 2011.
  8. "講談社 日本人名大辞典 - 中島秀吉". Kodansha. Retrieved 15 March 2011.

Further reading

Hendrickx, Katrien (2007). The Origins of Banana-fibre Cloth in the Ryukyus, Japan. Leuven University Press.

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