Tengkolok

Tengkolok, also known as Tanjak, Destar (Minangkabau: Deta; Kelantan-Pattani: Semutar)[6] is a traditional Malay or Indonesian[7] and male headgear. It is made from long songket cloth folded and tied in a particular style (solek). Nowadays, it is usually worn in ceremonial functions, such as royal ceremonies by royalties, and wedding ceremonies by grooms.

Tengkolok
Minangkabau man with a tengkolok headgear.
TypeTraditional Headgear
MaterialSongket
Place of originMaritime Southeast Asia[1]
ManufacturerMalay people[2][3][4] Banjarese, Minangkabau,[5] Buginese, Makassar, Minahasa, Bajau and Kadazandusun people

Name

The terms tengkolok, Tanjak, and setanjak are synonyms; the word "tengkolok" also refers to "headgear or headcover worn by women",[6] but the definition of women's headgear is rarely used today.[8]

However, some people say that tengkolok, tanjak, and destar are different in terms of cloth type or tying even though the purpose is the same, which the tengkolok is a headgear made from cloth of good quality and its tying has many layers and tapers to tip; destar has low tying and its tying layers are fewer than tengkolok; tanjak has tying much like tengkolok, the only difference is that its cloth is simple and thin.

Solek

Tengkolok is made in various forms, with different types and designs of cloth, depending on the social status of its dress.[9] The general term for different forms of tengkolok is solek. Each solek also has its different special name, for instance: the tengkolok worn by Yang di-Pertuan Agong during the coronation ceremony is known as Solek Dendam Tak Sudah (Persistent Vengeance Style).

Every Malay king has their particular solek. For example, the Sultan of Selangor wears a richly golden yellow Solek Balung Raja (Royal Crest Style) when attending a coronation ceremony or his birthday ceremony.

  • "Dendam Tak Sudah" tengkolok wore by Yang di-Pertuan Agong during coronation ceremony
    "Dendam Tak Sudah" tengkolok wore by Yang di-Pertuan Agong during coronation ceremony
  • Collection of Tengkolok worn by Sultan for all Malay states except Johor which Sultan of Johor wore a crown due to influence from the British Empire. Each tengkolok has different styles as there has to contain symbols and meanings.
    Collection of Tengkolok worn by Sultan for all Malay states except Johor which Sultan of Johor wore a crown due to influence from the British Empire. Each tengkolok has different styles as there has to contain symbols and meanings.
  • A Sumatran variant type of tengkolok worn by royal princes from Deli, Langkat and Serdang Kingdom of North Sumatra, Indonesia
    A Sumatran variant type of tengkolok worn by royal princes from Deli, Langkat and Serdang Kingdom of North Sumatra, Indonesia

See also

Note
  1. "Sering Salah Kira, Rupanya Ini Bentuk Tanjak Asli Palembang". (Indonesian)
  2. "Fashion Leadership Theory at Songket Lepus Palembang".
  3. "MENGENAL TANJAK PALEMBANG". (Indonesian)
  4. Kanwil Sumsel (2019). "Sosialisasi SP2020 "Partisipasi Aktif Lembaga Pemerintah dan Swasta Dalam Menyukseskan Sensus Penduduk 2020"". sumsel.kemenkumham.go.id (in Indonesian). Kantor Wilayah Sumatera Selatan - Kementerian Hukum dan Ham Republik Indonesia. Retrieved 7 June 2022.
  5. "Mendalami Suku Minang, dari Adat dan Budaya hingga Keseniannya".
  6. "Carian Umum". prpm.dbp.gov.my. Retrieved 2023-01-02.
  7. "Mengenal Sejarah Tanjak Khas Palembang, Sudah Ada Sejak Abad Ke-8 Kerajaan Sriwijaya". (Indonesia)
  8. "Arti Tanjak Bagi Orang Melayu". (Indonesian)
  9. Tanjak Warisan Melayu, Resam Melayu. Diambil pada 3 Mac 2011.
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