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Duracoat is a 2-part chemical spray finish designed specifically for use on firearms. Used extensively by hobby firearms makers, it is available in 75 colors as well as a clear gloss. The colors can be mixed in any combination to achieve a truly unique color. While applying Duracoat itself is not a laborious process, the prep work must be done meticulously to ensure a near flawless finish.
Steps
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1Cover the surface where you will be working with newspaper.
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2Dis-assemble the entire firearm and clean all pieces thoroughly, making sure there is no trace of oil on any piece.
- One of the best cleaners you can use for this job is MEK or methyl ethyl ketone, an industrial solvent. Pour MEK into a disposable aluminum foil pan and soak the parts. If necessary, use air pressure, brushes or rags to reach every surface of the firearm.
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3Use denatured alcohol for a final wipe down of the parts. Even a single drop of oil will cause the Duracoat to peel.
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4Use blue painter's tape to mask off any parts that will not be painted.
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5Snip pieces of the wire to make hooks to hang the parts to dry. This will also facilitate spraying Duracoat and allowing drying time between coats.
- A pegboard will work as a holder for hanging the parts. Cover the pegboard with heavy plastic to protect the surface from over spray.
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6Pour lacquer thinner into a foil pan. In case of a painting mistake, dip the part into the pan to remove the paint. You can also use it to clear the air-sprayer tip if necessary or to clean your hands of excess paint.
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7Set up the air sprayer and set the compressor to 30 psi.
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8Mix the Duracoat paints to get the color you desire. Test spray on a scrap piece of metal to check color.
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9Combine 1 part Duracoat Hardener to 12 parts Duracoat paint. Shake thoroughly for at least 3 minutes, and pour into the paint receptacle on the air-sprayer.
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10Hold spray tip 4 to 8 inches (10.2 to 20.3 cm) from the parts and spray Duracoat with sweeping passes from left to right. You can go back for another pass or 2 before allowing it to dry. The ideal final thickness of Duracoat should be 1 mil, applied in 1 to 3 passes.
- When spraying Duracoat on parts that receive more wear, such as parts that rub against holsters and slings, aim for a coating 1.5 mil for added endurance.
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11Set parts aside to dry and cure. They will be dry enough for light use in 24 hours, but ideally they should be allowed to dry for 2 weeks.
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12Clean up work area. Do not dispose of Duracoat and other chemicals in sewer lines. If you will not use up the Duracoat within 18 months, take to a licensed disposal facility.
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Community Q&A
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QuestionWhat is the working time for mixed paint, to allow for more coats?Community AnswerDepending on what type of paint you have, it can be anywhere from 10 to 60 minutes.
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QuestionThe first spray came out perfectly, but I had to turn the barrel, and now the paint is separating. What did I do wrong?RajajeyamCommunity AnswerDon't apply oil-based paint over latex; but you can put latex paint over oil-based, as long as you prepare the surface properly first. Start by finding out if the existing paint is oil or latex by rubbing the surface with denatured alcohol on a rag. If some of the paint comes off on the rag, it's latex.
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Warnings
- Remove any containers of silicon from the area before spraying Duracoat as it causes Duracoat to bubble, even if it is in a sealed container in the same room.⧼thumbs_response⧽
- Do not use Duracoat indoors. If used in outbuildings such as a garage, make sure the overhead doors are open and there is good ventilation. A fan set in a window and forcing the inside air outside will work.⧼thumbs_response⧽
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Things You'll Need
- MEK paint stripper
- Denatured alcohol
- Duracoat colors of your choice
- Duracoat hardener
- Newspaper
- Aluminum foil pans
- Lacquer thinner
- Spool of wire or wire coat hanger
- Wire cutters
- Peg board
- Heavy plastic sheet
- Paper towels
- Foam or bristle paint brushes
- Blue painter's tape
- Utility knife
- Latex gloves
- Respirator
- Eye protection
- Rags
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